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Old April 11th, 2012, 04:02 AM   #1
paulforaname
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new chain

Hey Guys,

I need a new chain for my bike and wondering right now what the cost will be for a OEM chain ?? also if any other brands available etc or even any info..

sorry for being so vague just had a 13 hour working day...
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Old April 11th, 2012, 12:12 PM   #2
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You can get a good chain DID at motorcycle superstore for 80 bucks with free shipping. best to do sprockets about the same time to. so u might change gearing while u are at it.

I did both sprockets and chain at motorcycle superstore for about 120 shipped
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Old April 11th, 2012, 12:51 PM   #3
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Check this info for pregen:

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/How_do_...e_the_chain%3F

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/What_re..._I_consider%3F
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Old April 11th, 2012, 11:35 PM   #4
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OEM chain is a 106-link 520 sized EK endless SRO O-ring, but any brand 520 of the correct length will fit. Make sure it's at least O-ring for street use. Aftermarket chains typically aren't endless. You can install a clip master link yourself but you may need a chain tool to do rivet master links and to remove extra chain links
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Old April 15th, 2012, 03:51 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CZroe View Post
You can install a clip master link yourself but you may need a chain tool to do rivet master links and to remove extra chain links
A dremel with a grinding wheel gets the old chain off nicely, and the pyramid shaped head off a pipe flaring tool on a C clamp works for installing the new rivet-type master link
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Old April 15th, 2012, 08:16 PM   #6
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......and the pyramid shaped head off a pipe flaring tool on a C clamp works for installing the new rivet-type master link
Would you mind explaining that?
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Old April 15th, 2012, 08:24 PM   #7
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Would you mind explaining that?
yes sir!

Buy a pipe flaring tool like this one. Unscrew it all the way until the conical end thingy pops right off. Then use a dremel to shave off about 1mm of the tip (but not too much. You're just making it short enough to fit into the rivet without the tip digging in. If you shave off too much, it won't flare the rivets).

Now that you have the conical piece off the flaring tool, do the same thing to a C clamp to pop it's head off. Now put the conical piece on the C clamp where the C clamp head used to be.

assemble the chain and master link. Get a second C clamp. Press the parts together. Now take the flaring contraption, and peen the parts of the master link that need to be peened by tightening the flaring contraption on the master link. ta-dahhhH!! a rivet-type master link that ain't coming off

PS: Remind me later in May to take some pictures of my contraption that I'm talking about. let me try and find the thread on kawiforums that I followed. hang on.
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Old April 15th, 2012, 08:58 PM   #8
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I would call that a "cone" because a pyramid has corners and would make a strange flare. Indeed, some parts may even contract as two or three points were pushed out if a dulled pyramid-shape were pressed into the rivet.

Anyway, I don't have a Dremel or a cutting wheel either. I couldn't get the plate on the rivet link because I didn't have a press tool so I tried to do that using the Harbor Freight chain breaker until I realized that it was pushing the pins through the other side of the master link instead of pushing the plate on. I pushed them back in as best I could and then used the spare pin to rivet as shown on the YouTube videos and one of the rivet pins cracked before it flared to the minimum measurement specified in the service manual. I went out and got the $30 Stockton Tool Company kit from Cycle Gear which does everything (normally $90). It's the same exact chain tool kit being sold under other brands.

No more messing around for me. Anyway, I know that I am supposed to grind a rivet link's pins down flat before using a chain breaker, but they were accidentally pushing through the backing plat from the other side, so it seems to me that I should be able to use a chain breaker from that side without grinding it. I successfully used it to remove the extra links from the chain in the first place, so is there any reason to think that it will really require grinding?
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Old April 15th, 2012, 09:02 PM   #9
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yeah I corrected that in my post explaining it. I used the term "conical" instead of "pyramid"
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Old April 16th, 2012, 01:51 AM   #10
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This .. Actually it looks the same like MP, but source is diff. But at 30$ you cannot beat it. I am seriously thinking of picking up another set. I have the MP one. Chained several chains and yet to break any pin. Worked flawlessly everytime.

OP : Call the person at my signature. You will get the BEST OEM prices. Also he has beaten aftermarket prices as well. I think i paid < 50$ for the EK MVXZ chain. That is what i use for both my track bike & race bike.


Quote:
Originally Posted by CZroe View Post
I went out and got the $30 Stockton Tool Company kit from Cycle Gear which does everything (normally $90). It's the same exact chain tool kit being sold under other brands.
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Old April 16th, 2012, 05:39 AM   #11
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yes sir!

................. let me try and find the thread on kawiforums that I followed. hang on.
Thanks, choneofakind.

Hanging on I am
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Old April 16th, 2012, 05:51 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by abhijitz View Post
This .. Actually it looks the same like MP, but source is diff. But at 30$ you cannot beat it. I am seriously thinking of picking up another set. I have the MP one. Chained several chains and yet to break any pin. Worked flawlessly everytime.

OP : Call the person at my signature. You will get the BEST OEM prices. Also he has beaten aftermarket prices as well. I think i paid < 50$ for the EK MVXZ chain. That is what i use for both my track bike & race bike.
Sounds like an awesome deal on that chain. I'm surprised he can beat eBay/Amazon prices. Anyway, the "Stockton" tool kit from Cycle Gear is the exact same as the "Sudco" one here except the plastic case is a different color.
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Old April 16th, 2012, 07:09 AM   #13
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Hanging on I am
can't find it... But I'm not going crazy I swear!! I read about how to do it SOMEWHERE! with pictures!!!
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Old April 16th, 2012, 07:28 AM   #14
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can't find it... But I'm not going crazy I swear!! I read about how to do it SOMEWHERE! with pictures!!!
I happened to stumble across a mention of that method today on the Penny-Arcade Off Topic forum's motorcycle thread. Never saw it before!
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Old April 16th, 2012, 07:30 AM   #15
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Well I can assure you that it works! My master link pins are nicely mushroomed, and I trust that they aren't coming off.
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Old April 23rd, 2012, 03:04 AM   #16
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thanks all,

ended up popping into my local Kawa dealership and got an RK chain for 120 AU and ended up using a angle grinder with a cutting wheel and just cut the chain off and then had to remove about 8 or so links with the chain adjusted all the way in and used a G clamp with a socket to push the plate over the pins to get the clip to fit..had to use the grinder to remove rivets on new chain which i luckly tried on part of the chain that as being removed for a bit of trial and error.. yeah didnt need to replace sprockets as as done about 7000 km prior as my chain had some stiff links...
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Old April 23rd, 2012, 08:22 PM   #17
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Tell us a bout the type of chain and link.

O-ring chains like to spit out the safe key of the master link.

Using safety wire on that key is very recommendable.
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