Pregen mods you've done?

[juanphatsun]

I've added very few goodies to my little ninja:

Extra brake lights in the spare pods.
New Horn with relay.
Longer battery terminal screws.
USB charger mounted to the left handle for when I finish my phone mount project.
Old ZX 600 shock.
Angled Valve stems for easy tire pressure checks.

There are probably other things I've done that I just can't think off the top of my head, but i'm curious what goodies have you added to your Ninja.

Just looking for possible ideas to do in the near future.

[CaliGrrl]

Angled valve stems, a rear shock from a 300, and reflective rim tape. I'm not much into modding stuff, but those were useful ones.

[Z1R rider]

On the track bike:
GSXR-600 shock
Gold valve emulators
stiffer fork springs
Muzzy header
light weight battery
removed head light
removed fan
removed side and center stands
removed all turn and tail lights
rearsets
17" wheels from NewGen
chain without o-rings
painted to resemble GPZ-900

On the street bike:
GSXR-600 shock
gold valve emulators
cut stock fork springs 2"
rearsets

oh and, quick turn throttle tube on both

[taz]

[MrChomper]

1. Replace rear sprocket with 44T JT Sprockets JTR486
2. Replace front sprocket with 15T JT Sprockets JTF516
3. Replace chain with RK racing 520-SO-106 chain
4. Replace rear tire with Kenda K671 130/90H-16
5. Replace front tire with Kenda K671 100/90H-16F
6. Replace fork springs with Progressive springs & 15wt fork oil
7. Replace stock shock with Ninja 300 shock

[Triple Jim]

* Taller sprocket ratio
* trimmed and removed plastic to make "standard" style
* Hydraulic clutch actuator
* Added LEDs to unused R and L sections of tail light and wired them as additional brake lights
* LED front and rear turn signals
* Peterson LED standard 7" headlight and bucket (similar to Truck-Lite)
* Inline fuel filter (small and cheap, but very important)
* Newgen rear shock
* Sonic front springs installed per their instructions
* Separated battery box from airbox per well known mod

[cbreater]

GSXR-600 shock
Ricor Intiminators
.75 Sonic springs
Muzzy header
HealTech Quickshifter
removed head light
removed fan
removed side and center stands
removed all turn and tail lights
rearsets
17" wheels from NewGen
Quick turn throttle
BB Links to raise bike 1" for ground clearance

[greg737]

Fuel Injection.

[Cafe Racer]

120 front tire

[juanphatsun]

For those who have installed emulators and stiffer springs, did you do both at the same time? I eventually plan to do this, except one at a time (i.e. install one, ride a thousand miles, note differences and then install the other). Which would you recommend doing first and and which has shown the most significant difference?

[taz]

with out a doubt emulators first, and no we didn't do them all at the same time some like me did the springs first(because cutting springs is cheaper). not near as much gained as the emulator/intimidator.

[MrChomper]

I have to say adding stiffer fork springs, and replacing the stock shock with a newgen shock really makes quite a difference. I installed fork springs last weekend, a ninja 300 shock this weekend, and took it for a ride... it was nice to not feel like I was on a rocking horse anymore.

It's in the shop now getting new tires mounted, I have a 2007 and the tires are the originals (at least 11 years old).

Once that's done it's going to feel like a new bike.

[Z1R rider]

Originally Posted by MrChomper

It's in the shop now getting new tires mounted, I have a 2007 and the tires are the originals (at least 11 years old).

Once that's done it's going to feel like a new bike.

Hopefully not the same Dunlops that it came with.

[MrChomper]

Originally Posted by Z1R rider

Hopefully not the same Dunlops that it came with.

I went with Kenda 671s.

[DannoXYZ]

Here's what I've done:

- battery-box chop mod, re-attached with lag-screws for quick removal in future work
- new-gen forks
- shortened fork-springs with longer spacers
- new-gen swingarm
- new-gen 17" wheels
- new-gen rear-shock

Completely transforms bike and makes it handle much, much better; even better than a new-gen. Looking at building a 2-1 exhaust next to get some more low-end/mid-range torque and better partial-throttle response like new-gen.

[juanphatsun]

Originally Posted by DannoXYZ

Here's what I've done:

- battery-box chop mod, re-attached with lag-screws for quick removal in future work
- new-gen forks
- shortened fork-springs with longer spacers
- new-gen swingarm
- new-gen 17" wheels
- new-gen rear-shock

Completely transforms bike and makes it handle much, much better; even better than a new-gen. Looking at building a 2-1 exhaust next to get some more low-end/mid-range torque and better partial-throttle response like new-gen.

New gen wheels from the 08-12 ninja 250?

I'd definitely be interested in hearing how a 2-1 exhaust turns out.

[Caoboy]

For those of you who have done the rear shock from a newgen, did you do any upgrades to your front forks at the same time, or can it be done separately? I am interested in this mod since the bike feels like it sinks way too much when I sit on it but don't want to have any adverse effects if I were to only do one mod at a time.

[CaliGrrl]

I upgraded just my rear shock. Bought one for a 300/newgen. No problems, bolted straight on. Feels better than the stock shock did.

Haven't upgraded the front yet.

[Caoboy]

Thanks for the info! Off to eBay!

[Triple Jim]

Originally Posted by Caoboy

For those of you who have done the rear shock from a newgen, did you do any upgrades to your front forks at the same time, or can it be done separately? I am interested in this mod since the bike feels like it sinks way too much when I sit on it but don't want to have any adverse effects if I were to only do one mod at a time.

See my post above.

[juanphatsun]

I think any upgrades you do to the bike should be spaced out, that way you can notice what made a difference and what didn't.

I installed an old zx 600 shock based off the ninja250 wiki page, didn't know about the 300 shock swap but anything will probably be better than the stock shock.

[Triple Jim]

Originally Posted by juanphatsun

I think any upgrades you do to the bike should be spaced out, that way you can notice what made a difference and what didn't.

Very good advice in general, but I've seen problems arise from changing the spring rate of just the front or just the rear of a motorcycle suspension system. The term "rocking horse" that MrChomper used above applies.

[taz]

Originally Posted by juanphatsun

New gen wheels from the 08-12 ninja 250?

I'd definitely be interested in hearing how a 2-1 exhaust turns out.

hear is a thread for 2nd gen wheels in a pre gen

https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=266182

[MrChomper]

Originally Posted by MrChomper

1. Replace rear sprocket with 44T JT Sprockets JTR486
2. Replace front sprocket with 15T JT Sprockets JTF516
3. Replace chain with RK racing 520-SO-106 chain
4. Replace rear tire with Kenda K671 130/90H-16
5. Replace front tire with Kenda K671 100/90H-16F
6. Replace fork springs with Progressive springs & 15wt fork oil
7. Replace stock shock with Ninja 300 shock

After a few days and a few hundred miles with these modifications I feel like I can give a little road report on each.

Front/Rear sprocket change:
1. 1st gear is actually useable
2. Highway cruising is more comfortable
3. No negative impact to city riding
4. Why wasn't the bike geared like this from the factory?

Kenda K671s (front/rear)
1. Confidence inspiring, consistent, reliable, you actually just stop thinking about them because they are completely predictable.
2. Smoother and more grip than stock tires
3. Handles bumps, potholes, pavement irregularities, and seams in roads (ones that go down the center of your lane for miles) without any surprises. Compared to the stock units, well there's no comparison. The stock tires were unpredictable, and often would get redirected by the slighted irregularity in any road.
4. Recommended. Good touring, commuter tire, even with a good lean they are very stable

Fork Springs & 300 shock:
1. No more rocking horse
2. Stable as a larger displacement bike
3. Compliant and predictable over bumps, even when cornering
4. Less fatigue and elbow pain, as the bike doesn't nose dive any longer
5. I think I do want to tune the fork a bit more, probably just add a little more preload to tighten things up a bit (20 minute job for the weekend)

All together:
These modest modifications really do transform the bike. In stock form, it's a fun bike, but it's almost toy like in a lot of ways in how squirrely it can be in terms of handling, and tire grip. Yeah that's fun, but it's also NOT confidence inspiring, and at times a bit terrifying. With these modifications you get all the all the fun of a small light bike, without any of the stability trade-offs you take on in stock form.

I have more fun on this bike now than ever before (and it has always been very fun), and I find myself always looking forward to my next ride on it.

All in all, i'm very impressed and happy with these modifications. It really does bring out the best in our little ninja without losing any of the fun.

[Triple Jim]

Originally Posted by MrChomper

4. Why wasn't the bike geared like this from the factory?

My guess is it's because they're used a lot for beginner rider training, and the ultra low first gear makes it easy for someone with no experience to get moving without stalling, and lets the rider go so slowly that an instructor can walk beside to give instructions, or the rider can maneuver around a tight course without having to work the clutch constantly.

[DannoXYZ]

Lower gearing also gives bike faster 0-60 & 1/4-mile time.

[juanphatsun]

Originally Posted by MrChomper

Front/Rear sprocket change:
1. 1st gear is actually useable
2. Highway cruising is more comfortable
3. No negative impact to city riding
4. Why wasn't the bike geared like this from the factory?

I actually rode 15/44 gear ratio for awhile and found that my acceleration was greatly reduced *believe i may have been running to lean back then as well, though that has been corrected* I live in the SF Bay Area would often commute down 280, which is known to have some gradual incline in some sections. Don't know how flat Seattle is, but I definitely didn't like that gearing .

[spent_too_much]

I went with 300 rear shock
.85 Sonic Springs up front
14 tooth front sprocket
47 rear sprocket
108 link chain
Kenda 671 100/90 front
Kenda 671 130/90 rear
filled the outer rear brake pods with bulbs, so now all 3 illuminate when I brake.( https://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/I_want...y_rear_sockets )

[Triple Jim]

Originally Posted by DannoXYZ

Lower gearing also gives bike faster 0-60 & 1/4-mile time.

But probably not 10-60, for example.

[choneofakind]

The 0-60 debate is neither here nor there, but remember there's 2 shifts to get to 60 when you're running 14/47 and even then you just touch 60 at the limiter. I have no doubt that longer gears make the 1/4 mile slower though. (basically the same top speed but a little slower acceleration) The great thing about shorter gearing is the bike is quicker at roll on out of a corner. It's good fun to have a peppy throttle response, even at the expense of being busy with the shifting and running out of tach quickly.

If you go taller to 15/43, IIRC, that removes a shift and the actual time to 60 is about the same. As always, with ninjettes the 0-60 time is most influenced by the launch because they're so power limited. Too aggressive and she pops a baby wheelie and chops engine speed. Too timid and you've lost up to 1/4 second. (I did some video testing on this a long time ago). Once you get moving and you're able to pop off clutchless shifts reliably, there's not much variation in the post-launch acceleration between runs.

Now if we look at 600's and 1000's that have ridiculously tall gearing and can already do well over 60 in 1st gear... I have no doubts that shorter final drive gearing makes for faster 0-60 and likely faster 1/4 mile times as well. They need it to get to the power sooner and can give up some speed in each gear because they're already over-geared (some suspicion here as to whether that tall gearing choice is for emissions, etc, but that's a different discussion as well).






Sorry for being OT in the mods thread. To get back on topic... no offense OP, you're asking about pregen modifications in the section of the forum devoted to just that. Instead of making a thread and getting all kinds of vague general answers, try searching. You'll get more info and maybe even pictures of what you're asking about.

[Cafe Racer]

Thanks for your comments. I was going to go to taller gearing until I read your post. I like the better throttle response of lower gearing. At Interstate speeds even with the lower gearing the wind and even over passes cause the bike to loose speed. Must be lots worse with taller gearing.

One thing that really surprised me was how little vibration the engine transmits to the grips. The foot pegs get a little buzzy at high rpms, but the bike has less vibration then my Harley Fatboy.

Looking forward to getting to my summer home and shop so I can start the Bluecollorbobbers cafe build. I am really pleased with the little ninja. Just hate the fairings. But hey that is just me.

[choneofakind]

Overpasses and wind cause it to slow down? I've never had that experience running 15/43. You just open the throttle more and it goes.

15/43 calmed it down big time on the freeway. I think 15/45 is about perfect.

[BoBO]

Originally Posted by CaliGrrl

I upgraded just my rear shock. Bought one for a 300/newgen. No problems, bolted straight on. Feels better than the stock shock did.

Haven't upgraded the front yet.

+1
Excellent suggestion. A month ago I installed a 300 R.Shock w/ only 1k miles on my Newgen, the improvement was noticeable. I had 21k on my stock shock lol.

[MrMushroom86]

Really not mods Ive done, they were already done when I bought it, but 1994 EX250F8, entire front suspension/tires/brakes off a 08-13, rear forks/tires/brakes off a 08-13, adjustable rear spring off a Yamaha R1, extensive rear frame modifications.

My mods, new tail lights, new digital cluster (chinese knockoff of a KOSO cluster), new mirrors with led turn indicators, new front mini fairing with windscreen and all the front lights.

Soon to come mods is an entire new back end (frame mods and a spot for a rear seat)

[Tylorwashere]

For everyone that rebuilt their forks, was it a big job? I was going to do it this winter when i went through and fixed/replaced everything that the previous owner broke. I also switched out the shock for one from a new gen, and it is definitely a noticeable difference.

Anyway I was under the impression I would have to take the forks completely off the triple tree to do it. Can you do it with them on the bike?

[MrMushroom86]

if you can get the forks off a newgen (rather than rebuild them) they fit on exactly the same but the front tire is going to be the same size as the rear on a pregen or firstgen

[greg737]

yes, to do the necessary work on the forks you will take them out of the triples, it's no big deal. working on the forks isn't difficult, just messy (you'll eventually end up covered in fork oil up to your elbows).

the second greatest EX250 sensation you'll ever get is the first ride you take after doing a proper fork upgrade (specifically tailored to your weight).

the absolute top EX250 sensation is the feel of the bike when you've done both the fork and the shock (once again, properly set to your weight). this is the first time you'll feel like the front and rear ends of the bike are tied together and working as a unit with the frame.

when they built the pre-gen EX250s Kawasaki went cheap on the suspension to keep the bike at an attractive price-point. that's the bad news. the good news is that Kawasaki gave the EX250 a really good engine (for the 250 class).

Here's an example: Kurt Worden being congratulated for finishing pretty high in the rankings of the 2017 Iron Butt rally. the Iron Butt rally is 11 days long and to be competitive you must ride about 1,000 miles a day.

[DannoXYZ]

Originally Posted by Tylorwashere

For everyone that rebuilt their forks, was it a big job? I was going to do it this winter when i went through and fixed/replaced everything that the previous owner broke. I also switched out the shock for one from a new gen, and it is definitely a noticeable difference.

Anyway I was under the impression I would have to take the forks completely off the triple tree to do it. Can you do it with them on the bike?

Need to remove forks in order to turn them upside-down to dump out all old oil. Some people drill drain hole on outside, but you end up with old oil below hole. Best to do it right and remove all old oil.

[Aerofoxxy]

Newgen rear shock
Newgen springs front
Yoshi Full System
Yoshi jets
Woodcraft bars & bmx grips
Ziptie throttle mod x2
Rear turnsignals moved to fixtures next to brake light
Red windshield
100/90-16 & 130/90-16 tires, front and rear respectively
Um...some other stuff.

[VaFish]

Dual sport tires.
LED Turn Signals
Removed body panels.