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Old September 30th, 2020, 01:36 AM   #1
BloodFX
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Lost the fan switch cable

Hi I have and el250 and I can't find the cable for the fan switch sensor thingy, I google the web trying to find 1 and can't seem to find 1 where do i get it, or am I blind and have missed something?

Its 2 pins btw, I also saw a connector on the loom unused also 2 pin.

Last futzed with by BloodFX; September 30th, 2020 at 05:32 AM.
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Old September 30th, 2020, 11:34 AM   #2
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You might be better off looking using the part number. Here is the catalog Inuse to find part numbers https://en.impex-jp.com/catalogs.html
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Old September 30th, 2020, 11:44 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BloodFX View Post
Hi I have and el250 and I can't find the cable for the fan switch sensor thingy, I google the web trying to find 1 and can't seem to find 1 where do i get it, or am I blind and have missed something?

Its 2 pins btw, I also saw a connector on the loom unused also 2 pin.
Post picture of this connector. And its wiring colours. Then look up wiring-diagram for colours of wires going to fan-switch.
And post picture of radiator fan-switch on left side of radiator.

Fan-switch wiring is part of main harness. It can't get disconnected and lost. Unless it's been cut off.
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Old October 1st, 2020, 02:55 AM   #4
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The cable you said that can't be lost I had attached to the horn and the horn works fine, also the fans stays on permanently when I turn ignition on.

Oh and the warning light is on also permanently, I think the wire is yellow/black and other is black maybe on the 2 pin connector hard to see.
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Old October 1st, 2020, 02:05 PM   #5
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Apparently EL250 uses single terminal grounding thermoswitch. Since your fan is running full-time, wire for thermoswitch is already plugged in and grounded somewhere.

Warning light is also connected to 1/4” single-terminal sensor. I think you have your wires reversed?

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Old October 1st, 2020, 02:58 PM   #6
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Yea thats got a cable attached already it's the only cable that will reach it.

My Haynes manual shows fan switch as 2 pins like the 1 at bottom of radiator.
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Old October 1st, 2020, 04:48 PM   #7
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Ah, what year is your EL250?

Look for 2-wire connector with white/blue and blue/white wires.
EDIT: only for pre-gen 250

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Old October 2nd, 2020, 01:51 AM   #8
BloodFX
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d4 1993, I just found the original wiring diagram in back of owners manual, which I didn't even know was there, am I allowed to post a photo of it?
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Old October 2nd, 2020, 03:33 AM   #9
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Maybe just crop in on section that shows fan thermoswitch and temp-gauge sensor?
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Old October 2nd, 2020, 06:32 AM   #10
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So I won't get banned for copyright or anything?
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Old October 2nd, 2020, 07:37 AM   #11
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Yeah
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Old October 2nd, 2020, 08:54 AM   #12
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Does Kawasaki prosecute its customers for sharing parts of the manual?
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Old October 2nd, 2020, 06:25 PM   #13
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Probably not. I was just thinking of TOS stuff here.
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Old October 3rd, 2020, 04:17 AM   #14
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Sorry was that a "yeah" I will get banned or a "yeah" I won't?
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Old October 3rd, 2020, 09:33 AM   #15
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I think that yeah, you won’t get banned
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Old October 4th, 2020, 11:13 AM   #16
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Seems my post got deleted..?
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Old October 4th, 2020, 11:14 AM   #17
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Old October 4th, 2020, 11:23 AM   #18
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Old October 4th, 2020, 08:55 PM   #19
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It appears fan should be powered as follows from factory:

- black/yellow grounded full-time.
- black wire provides power from fan-switch
- black wire power to fan-switch gets power from 10a cooling-fan fuse
- 10a cooling fan fuse powered by white wire from starter solenoid

Now, this white wire has power full-time regardless of key position. So fan will run to cool off engine even after you’ve turned off ignition-switch and removed key.

In your case, it appears fan is hardwired to be on whenever key is on, thus bypassing fan thermoswitch in radiator completely.

1. Trace black wire coming out of fan-connector and see where it ends up to get switched power.

2. Trace black wire from fusebox that should be going to fan thermoswitch. Perhaps it will lead to proper fan thermoswitch connector. Other black wire on that connector should go to fan.


Looks like that loose connector you showed earlier with black/yellow+black wires should be plugged into fan. Which brings up question: What’s plugged into fan now???
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Old October 5th, 2020, 12:41 AM   #20
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The fan has a proper connector connected, like the black 1 I linked.

Will post some more photos when I have 5 mins.

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Old October 5th, 2020, 10:44 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BloodFX View Post
The fan has a proper connector connected, like the black 1 I linked.

Will post some more photos when I have 5 mins.
Yes, but what is colour of wires on connector plugged into fan?

The proper blk/yel+blk fan wires are connected to this loose unused connector you found earlier.



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Old October 6th, 2020, 01:18 AM   #22
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Think its all very clear now just like you said, this was plugged into fan so wrong way round?
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Old October 6th, 2020, 08:43 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BloodFX View Post
Think its all very clear now just like you said, this was plugged into fan so wrong way round?
Yeah, plugs got switched. It has black+black wires, should be plugged into fan thermoswitch, not fan.




THIS is what plugs into fan. Notice that this has black/yellow+black wire, which should go to fan.




On the new-gens, plugs are completely different between fan and thermoswitch so this can't happen.

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Old October 6th, 2020, 10:02 AM   #24
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Yea, thanks for all the help.
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Old October 6th, 2020, 03:31 PM   #25
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you're welcome!
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Old October 9th, 2020, 11:48 AM   #26
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Is it ok for me to continue this thread with another problem? /facepalm?
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Old October 9th, 2020, 11:53 AM   #27
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Noticed my el250 bottom rad hose is almost right next to exhaust manifold which is already wrapped in lava wrap, should I insulate it with more wrap and maybe a piece of ceramic tile or something?
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Old October 11th, 2020, 05:32 PM   #28
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Sure, extra insulation can’t hurt. I’ve used silicone baking mats to protect radiator hoses. Get the thick solid ones. Found some @ Ikea. Fleabay also has them: https://www.ebay.com/itm/164035246889 Use zip-ties or safety-wire to attach.
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Old October 12th, 2020, 01:31 AM   #29
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Ok will try that, I think its because I installed a thermobob 3 and hoses might be slightly higher not by much though the stock 1 looks pretty close to exhaust anyway.

I do have a spare rad hose, do you think I should try and redo it maybe?
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Old October 12th, 2020, 09:15 AM   #30
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The small hose looks sufficiently far away to be safe. If big radiator hose is less than 5mm away, yeah, perhaps try to reposition. If you have hose with slight curve in it, that may be enough to angle away from header.
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Old October 12th, 2020, 10:31 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DannoXYZ View Post
The small hose looks sufficiently far away to be safe. If big radiator hose is less than 5mm away, yeah, perhaps try to reposition. If you have hose with slight curve in it, that may be enough to angle away from header.
Yea its pretty danger close, don't have time to do a photo till 2morrow, but this is all the hose I have left, the big bendy 1 is the original.

I have about 70 cm of lava wrap left would that work?
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Old October 12th, 2020, 08:29 PM   #32
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Sure, might as well use up rest of that wrap!
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Old October 13th, 2020, 12:43 AM   #33
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Sure, might as well use up rest of that wrap!
Here, bare in mind the wrap is quite thick and its resting on a fold.
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Old October 13th, 2020, 01:58 AM   #34
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Well its either wrap with more lava wrap or use 1 of these 2 pieces on the bottom hose.

Then angle the bleed valve inwards a bit and hopefully lower it on the top hose or even trim the top hose a few mm and get it to drop, thoughts ?
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