Crank no start

[cveilleux88]

curious how this turned out for the OP.
I was having very similar problems. everything i check comes back fine.
only thing it may be other than resistor missing in my new ignition might be the crank sensor/pickup coil. the resistance is measuring fine, but I'm not getting any volts when turning over. although I was checking for DC volts & forgot I need be looking for AC volts.
either way I'm currently soldering the 100k resistor to my gray wire in ignition.. or does it need be the 100ohm & not 100k? either way I've got hundreds. start at 100 maybe??

[04Ninja25]

Hey everyone. Order a oem ignition harness from eBay and now it runs. Everything works now.

[cveilleux88]

i got mine from ebay but still no spark. pulled apart and found no resistor. I'm installing resistor now to see how that plays out. all my safety switches function as they should. I'm just curious if resistor is the problem, would the bike still turn over?
if it should turn over but no spark, I feel resistor is most likely my problem. although when I disconnect the clutch safety switch it won't turn over. same with kickstand switch. either way trying the resistor is cheaper go right now since I already have everything from other projects.
if it don't work I'll replace the pickup coil considering its the only other thing i can see maybe wrong.

my bike cranks but the ecu isn't sending a spark to the coils. I can manually deliver a spark by grounding it out which is telling me my coils are good & something wrong with the signal somewhere.. hmmm

[04Ninja25]

Unless you have good with wiring and soldering I recommend buy a oem one. That's what I did.

Originally Posted by cveilleux88

i got mine from ebay but still no spark. pulled apart and found no resistor. I'm installing resistor now to see how that plays out. all my safety switches function as they should. I'm just curious if resistor is the problem, would the bike still turn over?
if it should turn over but no spark, I feel resistor is most likely my problem. although when I disconnect the clutch safety switch it won't turn over. same with kickstand switch. either way trying the resistor is cheaper go right now since I already have everything from other projects.
if it don't work I'll replace the pickup coil considering its the only other thing i can see maybe wrong.

my bike cranks but the ecu isn't sending a spark to the coils. I can manually deliver a spark by grounding it out which is telling me my coils are good & something wrong with the signal somewhere.. hmmm

[cveilleux88]

thanks for input for sure. I'm not saying I'm a pro at it, but I don't own bunches of resistors, capacitors, diodes ect. because I enjoy them on my icecream. lol

not the best job I've done, but only looking for functionality. & don't forget your heat shrink tubing to dress it up a touch

attempt #1.. I'll keep you all posted

[cveilleux88]

and for those wondering. the 100(not 100k) ohm resistor missing from the gray wire in the ignition was my problem. I just wish I knew of Kawasaki doing this before I had ordered a second CDI box.
I'm now going put my bike back together & get her running. post some pics to my profile.

Thanks for all the info I found on here guys. Very Helpful 8)

[DannoXYZ]

Hey, good job on adding that 100-ohm resistor!

Yes, test parts to determine actual cause of problem before just blindly replacing parts. Trace path of electricity flow in ignition-system and test each segment. To test for presence of 100-ohm resistor:

- unplug big ignition-switch connector under gas-tank
- key ON
- on ignition-switch connector, measure resistance between grey and brown wire terminals in connector
- IF resistance = 0-ohms, you don't have 100-ohm resistor in ignition switch
- IF resistance = 100-ohms, you DO have 100-ohm resistor



IF you've confirmed 100-ohm resistor is in-line AND still no spark, then some possibilities:

- bad wiring between components. Measure resistance end-to-end of each wire-segment between pick-up coils to IC-ignitor, between ignition-switch to IC-ignitor, between IC-ignitor to coils, etc.

- bad power-wires to coil, measure for +12v at both coil-terminals when key ON.

- bad coils, grounding-test covered earlier to produce spark

- bad IC-igniter. There should be grounding-pulses on green and black trigger wires. Easiest way is to test with oscilloscope or 'noid light. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MZD76PK/

These tests takes 5-minutes and you'll have positive 100% confirmation of what problem is and can then fix it right away, or order just broken parts that need replacing.

[cveilleux88]

I had tested everything possible at the time of purchase new CDI box. At the time I didn't know Kawasaki added the resistor for anti-theft.
All my other components came back fine when testing, minus the voltage put out from the pickup sensor (was looking at DC, not AC).
And only way I know of testing a CDI is using it on another known running bike, I figured go ahead replace it. Found one from a parts bike on eBay for $35. Although the $35 could be gas in the tank, figured it's not that bad of a waste since I now have a backup. 8)

Again tho. Thank You All for this info about the resistor. Had I not found this forum I'd have been throwing parts at it by now & cussing when I learn it was just a resistor.
Atleast it's only $35 gone & not hundreds.. lol

[DannoXYZ]

Yeah, you can also re-sell it or keep it as spare.

[cveilleux88]

no doubt. I think I'm keep it as a spare honestly. we will see. I now have look for other info for another problem on this bike 8/
after I got the spark fixed & everything back together she fired right up.. with No Choke.. kinda had me iffy. should of needed the choke to start since its been over a year. but ok, it's idling fine. hit the throttle & bogs down.
again, not a big deal, its getting too much fuel it seems since I didn't even prime the line with fuel. the carbs was still full from previous attempts to start when I still had no spark. apparently its a bigger deal than I thought. I can't get it right.
First I should mention I was silly and got a new petcock for it since the old one was so cruddy. I fudged up and bought the $9 one with a prime setting. its the shortneck one that don't work with this gas tank. So I had to just about fully cut off the valve handle you use to change from Prime, Reserve & On. The thing is that this valve primes the carb whether in Prime or the On position. Then the gas continues out from the overflow tube lubricating my chain.. more so cleaning than lube actually. lol.
With this aftermarket petcock I also had to replace the fuel lines to the carbs since its one size smaller 8/ Curious what exactly the smaller second line is doing tho. Even when I manually prime the second line that feeds the intake side of carbs, it won't pull anything from the tank. (keep in mind I have the petcock set on reserve since On or Prime just overflows my carbs & cleans the chain).
Cleaned the tank twice(The Works, works) for good measure. pulled the carbs, but they was super clean. took off both of the bowls & the float jets were mint honestly. I didn't think I would need to go deeper than that.

Either way, I know this post don't belong here & should start a new thread & I may if I don't find what I'm looking for.. My thoughts is I'm have to dig deeper into the carb for my answer. hoping I don't have to order an original petcock, they expensive.
Just wondering if you guys may have links to anything you've seen on here related to my new problem. have to run out and grab my girl from work. I'll be scavenging the site upon return for some hopefully 'easy' answers.. lol

Thanks Again Guys..