How to adjust the camshaft timing ?

[juliusmichaelhonrada]

Ok , its not the carburetors it was the timing that was the problem , when i put the crankshaft in 2T then i look at the cam sprockets both intake cam and exhaust cam marks are pointing high up in the sky instead of pointing in the Cylinder Head horizontally .

I have no idea how to adjust this can anybody help me ?
Will i remove the chain then spin the camshaft so that it line up with the marks then put the chain back? how can i do it exactly?

[Racer x]

The lines on the sprockets should be lined up with the valve cover gasket serface. Start with the exhaust side and pull the chain tight. Then the intake. Then install the CCT taking to the slack.

[ducatiman]

2 words.....SERVICE MANUAL.

working blind? never a good idea

[juliusmichaelhonrada]

Ok guys i did it, the bike runs fine now , its just a bit lean lol

2 bolts on the camshaft cap are stripped in the threads i cant tighten them they just go loose again after half a turn, dont have replacement parts yet so i reused it.

[Motofool]

Originally Posted by juliusmichaelhonrada

Ok guys i did it, the bike runs fine now , its just a bit lean lol

2 bolts on the camshaft cap are stripped in the threads i cant tighten them they just go loose again after half a turn, dont have replacement parts yet so i reused it.

I would not use that engine until solving those loose bolts.
They can do a lot of damage to rocker arms, etc.
Also, the valves and cams exert a lot of upwards force at medium and high rpm's.
The cycling bending of the caps will rapidly induce a fracture by fatigue.
The full destruction of the engine will follow.

Here in USA, we have steel helicoids to be inserted in the damaged aluminum threads.
If those are not available to you, you will need to use a machine shop to insert threaded brass bushings into those.

Another option, if you still have enough material in the head and caps, is to drill and tap the next size bolt of the proper grade (tensile strength).

[juliusmichaelhonrada]

Originally Posted by Motofool

I would not use that engine until solving those loose bolts.
They can do a lot of damage to rocker arms, etc.
Also, the valves and cams exert a lot of upwards force at medium and high rpm's.
The cycling bending of the caps will rapidly induce a fracture by fatigue.
The full destruction of the engine will follow.

Here in USA, we have steel helicoids to be inserted in the damaged aluminum threads.
If those are not available to you, you will need to use a machine shop to insert threaded brass bushings into those.

Another option, if you still have enough material in the head and caps, is to drill and tap the next size bolt of the proper grade (tensile strength).

The block and heads are fine , i mean the Bolt is stripped in its thread imagine it as a square not round , 2 sides are stripped and virtually have no thread anymore except on the north and the south side of the bolt

[juliusmichaelhonrada]

Is it normal that my intake manifold becomes very very cold and moist starts to form around the manifold , the weather here is like 40Celsius with 75% humidity (tropical climate) , to my surprise my single carburetor can rev my ninja motor up to 13000 rpm with no prob

[RacinNinja]

Static rev vs loaded rev are different.

Yes, that's normal for a metal Y intake manifold. Since you're going from a one tube to two tubes, the intake air and fuel expands and cools. Might even form ice in there...part of the reason airplanes and some cars used to have carb heaters.

[SLOWn60]

Originally Posted by juliusmichaelhonrada

The block and heads are fine , i mean the Bolt is stripped in its thread imagine it as a square not round , 2 sides are stripped and virtually have no thread anymore except on the north and the south side of the bolt

The steel bolt is stripped and not the aluminum hole? That would be rarer than hens teeth! (How was that metaphor, Chris? ). Those holes need to be helicoiled. Imo.

The bolt may be stripped too but if the bolt is spinning in the hole and 1/2 the threads are good on the bolt then the hole is stripped.

[juliusmichaelhonrada]

Originally Posted by SLOWn60

The steel bolt is stripped and not the aluminum hole? That would be rarer than hens teeth! (How was that metaphor, Chris? ). Those holes need to be helicoiled. Imo.

The bolt may be stripped too but if the bolt is spinning in the hole and 1/2 the threads are good on the bolt then the hole is stripped.

Exactly , its just weird that those 2 bolts are almost perfectly identical like someone did intentionally stripped them .

Half of the threads are perfect and the other half is stripped in the sides

Its the long bolts from Camshaft Cap #1 and Camshaft Cap #4, the long bolts have a 9 mark in top of them, about Camshaft cap #2 and Camshaft cap #3 , the long bolts are not stock anymore the P.O replaced them with stainless steel 11mm wrench size bolts and it was longer because it needs 2 washers to become tight , i took very careful measure in torquing them without a torque wrench i dont wanna puncture a hole in my head

[SLOWn60]

Sounds like someone tried to make Hail Mary thread chasers.
The holes were stripped so he modified the bolts to try to clean up the threads enough to get by. Crappy though he didn't fix it properly but sometimes you do what you have to do! Not everywhere is there a full repair shop and parts readily available. Do yourself a favour though and fix it right.

The good news is he didn't epoxy them into place! Lol!

[Motofool]

Bill's statement is correct.
To make things worse, only half of the aluminum threads are holding all the load down and they will flow into bigger deformation.

Also de stainless still bolts have to be replaced with high tensile steel.
That #9 may be a JIS 6:
http://forums.ninja250.org/viewtopic.php?p=853294

It may last for a while the way things are now, but problems will appear.

I know that you have worked hard on that engine and that you want to ride, but try to find a decent machine shop with time and ask them to do a proper work on that head.

The cooling of the manifold is the normal result of the expansion of a gas, same that happens in any refrigerator: compression of any gas (pressure increases) generates heat, expansion (pressure decreases due to Ventury effect) absorbs heat from the surroundings (humid air around the manifold).
You can wrap some insulation material around the manifold, that will improve power a little bit.

[juliusmichaelhonrada]

Update :

I run the bike for 10 kilometers on the way to a tire shop to get some air in the front tires i ran it flat.

The bike would crap out when it gets hot but the intake manifold is so cold and wet with moisture , is it possible that because of the cold manifold my mixture becomes so lean as i operate the bike and the atomized fuel on the carb condense btw my Air screw is just half turn out from bottomed out , when i was in the tire shop , sadly it was close and i had a hard time starting the bike i had to wait like 10 mins , with some throttle and full choke on it took 4 seconds of starter motor cranking to get it started(i can feel that the starter motor have a hard time cranking the piston its like its sticking to the cylinder wall i think because of overheating) , and i drive home flat again.

I noticed the ignition coil on the cylinder #2 is getting hot to the touch but not that hot that it will burn my hand but still significant hot , while the cylinder 1 coil is not as hot as the #2.

I also suspect that the thermostat or my cooling system is not working because the water never goes into the Expansion tank the clear white plastic tank in the left side of the bike , and it never gets hot there , i had read somwhere boiling hot water should go into that tank but in my bike theres nothing

The RPM would also increase if i left the bank on Sidestand , im sure its not the cable i tested it, the rpm would go down to 1500 when i move it upright , leaning to the right side have no effect

[Motofool]

The reasons for bad performance after a while can be three:
* One sperk coil quits working when it gets hot.
* The fuel tank develops vacuum due to poor vent of the cap, restricting the amount of fuel that reaches the carburetor.
* The pistons are growing too much and getting jammed against the cylinders due to overheating.

The reservoir is only to compensate for any coolant that cannot fit in the closed system of pump, passages, hoses and radiator.
If you have air trapped inside that closed system, the above will never happen, and that air can cause over-heating.
Does your bike have a temp gauge?

The change of rpm's when the bike is leaned may be due to changes in the level of the fuel inside the bowl of the carburetor respect to the jets.

The mix does not change because the external condensation on the manifold.

[juliusmichaelhonrada]

Originally Posted by Motofool

The reasons for bad performance after a while can be three:
* One sperk coil quits working when it gets hot.
* The fuel tank develops vacuum due to poor vent of the cap, restricting the amount of fuel that reaches the carburetor.
* The pistons are growing too much and getting jammed against the cylinders due to overheating.

The reservoir is only to compensate for any coolant that cannot fit in the closed system of pump, passages, hoses and radiator.
If you have air trapped inside that closed system, the above will never happen, and that air can cause over-heating.
Does your bike have a temp gauge?

The change of rpm's when the bike is leaned may be due to changes in the level of the fuel inside the bowl of the carburetor respect to the jets.

The mix does not change because the external condensation on the manifold.

I checked the spark plug and it says a lot , CYL #1 is yellowish brown CYL #2 is Ooozing black .

I have read somewhere that CYL #2 valve stem guide clearance might be too much and its pulling oil into the combustion chamber? What is this valve stem guide clearance , is it the same with Valve clearance which i measure using the a feeler gauge and put it between the heel of the cam and the top of the rocker arm?

I can confirm that CYL #2 is indeed burning oil when i rev it my brother can see some white smoke in the muffler thats connected to CYL #2

I've also taken pics of the tension wire , and also the radiator 1 pin , and the expansion tank.

Spark Plugs + HT wires :


Radiator temp 1 pin:


Expansion Tank:


Ignition Switch and Fan switch:


My gauge :



The temp gauge needle is moving when i turn the ignition on , but i dont know how to check its accuracy , when i rode the bike 10 kilometers it did moved but did not reach even half of the gauge , around 1/4 only i was doing 80 km/h its crazy because i almost crash because of the flat front tire , the bike just want to turn itself and i cant actually control its turn its so stiff, the speedometer is working im sure so the odometer must be true the bike ran around 29,000 kilometers in its whole life , but i dont know why it is burning oil at such low mileage

[juliusmichaelhonrada]

P.S , the white smoke in the exhaust of CYL #2 can only be seen if you rev the motor , but if its idling there are no smoke thats why my brother saw it when we were going to the tire shop , he have his own bike and he is there as backup in case the bike breaks down.

Can oil burning in the cylinder cause the bike to run crap and start hard sometimes specially when hot ? or i should look for more problems..

Im really out of money now i only have 200 pesos now remaining in my school allowance (around 4$) lol but i cant give up

[Motofool]

White smoke and carbon on the plug means oil infiltrating the combustion chamber.
That makes the level of oil in the engine dangerously low after a while.

The oil can go inside the chamber via the oil ring or the guides of the valves.
When you accelerate, more vacuum in the chamber is created during the aspiration strokes and more oil is sucked through the oil ring and/or valve stems-guides.

In the best case, oil has been contaminated with carbon for long periods of time (black oil) and combined with heat, has created carbon deposits in the many cavities of the oil rings and in the transfer holes of the piston, which makes then unable to properly control oil.

In the worst case, the guide of one or more valves has become oval.
Those guides are in the head and work of a machine shop with oven is needed to replace them.
The stem of the valve gets damaged/worn after the guide goes bad, what requires replacement with new valves.

I am very sorry to see the many difficulties that you have faced with this bike, having little money to repair it.

When the smoke is black, the mix is too rich.

In both cases, the plug is covered with carbon/unburned fuel and it stops producing sparks.

[SLOWn60]

Julius; you don't have the money to fix what needs fixing. Stop wasting your time and money on this bike just because you want a bigger engine! It will continue to fail you every week and you can't afford and don't have the money or time to fix it. There are some amazing stories of machines being kept alive but those are done when parts are available, time is available and the person has the money and skill to do it.
I'm saying you aren't someday able to fix it but today is not the day. Stop now, figure out another way to get to school and save your money for something that is easily and cheaply repairable. Best of all a bicycle!

I hate to discourage you but you have got to be sensible. You start school tomorrow!

[juliusmichaelhonrada]

Do you have any idea how much will it cost for a top down engine overhaul in a ninja 250 ?

That explains the reason why the engine would crap out when the rev is going back to idle it would actually die out sometimes if i dont turn the choke on fast enough, as the oil gets in cyl #2 and less gas and rpm it cant maintain a spark or a good combustion , plug misfires , the electricity have to go somewhere and it heats up the ignition coil . And that also explains the 2x weaker exhaust pulse on the CYL#2 muffler , like theres nothing coming out in the muffler unless i rev the motor and the sound of the exhaust is different like the spark would misfire and its just idling somewhat it sounds like a V twin engine of a harley with the PO-TA-TO firing order , unlike the cyl #1 muffler which is so strong i can feel it 3 meters away and the sound is consistent and it never changes

[SLOWn60]

Originally Posted by juliusmichaelhonrada

Do you have any idea how much will it cost for a top down engine overhaul in a ninja 250 ?

Yes. Far more money than you have. Then I'm sure the brakes are completely worn out and the swingarm bushings etc, etc, etc. And as you've pointed out; it's an extremely rare, old bike so no one has parts or experience rebuilding it or a good used engine to swap. It is an old, completely worn out machine. It's not words you want to read but it is obvious from reading your words and seeing your pictures. From what you have told us; you have no money or time. You cannot fix this to give you reliable transportation for school and you have no money to fix other items that will need fixing. Stop the madness or you will not be able to afford school!

[juliusmichaelhonrada]

Originally Posted by SLOWn60

Julius; you don't have the money to fix what needs fixing. Stop wasting your time and money on this bike just because you want a bigger engine! It will continue to fail you every week and you can't afford and don't have the money or time to fix it. There are some amazing stories of machines being kept alive but those are done when parts are available, time is available and the person has the money and skill to do it.
I'm saying you aren't someday able to fix it but today is not the day. Stop now, figure out another way to get to school and save your money for something that is easily and cheaply repairable. Best of all a bicycle!

I hate to discourage you but you have got to be sensible. You start school tomorrow!

Sadly i swapped my 2010 kawasaki rouser 220cc single thumper bike for this 1988 ninja 250 , what i liked is the dual front disc brake because my old bike single front brake is weak. The P.O did not mention any of this problem im facing now , what he said was its just the carb that is the problem and the the transmission have some history of repair. Now i have no choice but to fix this bike , i know i am so dumb to swap a perfectly working bike to a bike thats older than me , but i have no more choice.. i cant return this bike now,i am committed and theres no other way i can have another bike anymore until i graduate and earn my own money from my own job

[SLOWn60]

Originally Posted by juliusmichaelhonrada

Sadly i swapped my 2010 kawasaki rouser 220cc single thumper bike for this 1988 ninja 250 , what i liked is the dual front disc brake because my old bike single front brake is weak. The P.O did not mention any of this problem im facing now , what he said was its just the carb that is the problem and the the transmission have some history of repair. Now i have no choice but to fix this bike , i know i am so dumb to swap a perfectly working bike to a bike thats older than me , but i have no more choice.. i cant return this bike now,i am committed and theres no other way i can have another bike anymore until i graduate and earn my own money from my own job

You are only dumb if you continue to spend money trying to fix this bike because you don't have enough money. It will cost 10 or 20 times the money that you have to fix it and that's only if you can get parts which you already have found out you can't get.
Sorry but get over it and accept the fact you won't have a motorcycle for awhile but if you don't graduate it will be far longer, if ever that you can afford another.

You are going to school to learn lessons. If you're smart you will learn those lessons well and prosper. This experience with this motorcycle has many lessons to learn from. Are you a smart student or a dumb student? Your next decision will speak volumes.

Good luck, be smart and prosper. You may have to sacrifice now but you're young, full of energy and opportunity. Patience is your best friend.

[Motofool]

Originally Posted by juliusmichaelhonrada

Do you have any idea how much will it cost for a top down engine overhaul in a ninja 250 ?............

No idea.
That depends on the honesty, skills and resources of the shop or person doing the work, as well on the severity of the problems.

Please, consider our advise as just a general troubleshooting at distance.
The accurate evaluation takes digging and testing.
The more they have to pull appart, the more the labor time and new gaskets and parts that will need to be replaced.

If you have access to some smoke-stopping additives for the oil and fuel, you may want to try some and see the result.
Replacing the spark plug of cylinder 2 with a higher heat rate and shorter thread may help with the fouling.

[Racer x]

To get this bike running for the least amount of money is the goal.

I would have to say this engine sounds like a problem. From the photos you need to spend some money.
The disc brake thing is not that big a deal. Seriously a single disc will stop you. You are not racing.
So option one is to buy another bike. Bikes between 1988 and 2007 are you best bet. But a crashed bike in that year range should be within your budget.

Where is you basement located?

Option two is to buy a wreck. If you can find a crash bike with an engine and a good wiring harness and some decent spark plug boots you should be able to make somthing that runs.

[juliusmichaelhonrada]

Originally Posted by Racer x

To get this bike running for the least amount of money is the goal.

I would have to say this engine sounds like a problem. From the photos you need to spend some money.
The disc brake thing is not that big a deal. Seriously a single disc will stop you. You are not racing.
So option one is to buy another bike. Bikes between 1988 and 2007 are you best bet. But a crashed bike in that year range should be within your budget.

Where is you basement located?

Option two is to buy a wreck. If you can find a crash bike with an engine and a good wiring harness and some decent spark plug boots you should be able to make somthing that runs.

Im from Philippines , i saw a whole engine in ebay for $500 but whats sad is the shipping is $1,000, more expensive than the engine itself.

If the oil rings were shot , is it possible that i can use a piston set , or rings from another motorcycle with the same bore as the ninja 250 , i found this Suzuki Raider 150cc moped and it have the same bore diameter as the ninja 250 of 62MM , im also going to check the PCV breather and rule out any other possible cause that might save me a lot of money





Here is a parts catalogue of the suzuki raider 150 and the price:




I can get 2 pistons , and 2 set of piston rings for around 2866 pesos = roughly around $64 bucks
Forget the labor , im gonna fix this bike myself

There are a lot of variation of pistons here and diameter , please tell me the specs of the rings and whatever i need to know, luckily 62mm is available here widely not a stock ninja 250 part , an aftermarket piston , forged and for racing is cheap because many kids here are doing drag racing at night most of the time some even turbocharging their mopeds.

Also the local Kawasaki Factory here can sell parts for the New gen ninja 250, will that ring fits mine? but of course it will be my plan b because it will be expensive.

My last resort is to save a huge amount of money and buy everything overseas and everything will be shipped here

[RacinNinja]

Many other things to consider other than piston diameter.

Piston pin diameter. Whether or not the pin is captive or floating, IE pressed into the rod or retained with clips. Deck height. Pin height. Valve reliefs. Dome height. Piston weight.

Then there are the ring thicknesses, etc.

In reality, you'd have to have both pistons side by side and measure carefully or find someone who already has.

[Racer x]

I don't suspect the raider parts will fit. You would need the parts to compare.

I would suspect the oil burning problem to be valve guides and seals. As well as the piston rings. You just can't tell with out disassembling the engine and measuring and inspection it all.
The Raider is a cool bike. It would be a good bike to buy if you could find an older one that runs.
I would keep looking around for a doner bike. I am not sure you can just swap in a replacment engine. The very first ninja 250 had a very different ignition system. With out a manual I would not be able to tell what you have. But it is somthing that would mess you up if it is different.

[Motofool]

You don't need new oil rings or pistons.
Please, re-read my previous post.
Checking the valves and guides is easier that removing the cylinder and piston.

Oil rings do not wear, they just get dirty.
WD-40 or kerosene, a brass little brush, copper wire and a few hours is all you need to make those rings to work as new again.

In your situation, you cannot afford not to be methodical ang logical and try the less expensive staff first.
I would save the money of those pistons and would pay a machine shop or car's engine rebuilder place to check the clearance of the valves and their guides, asking for a repair price estimate after they tell you what is wrong.
If the valves are OK, then work on the pistons.

[juliusmichaelhonrada]

Originally Posted by Motofool

In the best case, oil has been contaminated with carbon for long periods of time (black oil) and combined with heat, has created carbon deposits in the many cavities of the oil rings and in the transfer holes of the piston, which makes then unable to properly control oil.

In the worst case, the guide of one or more valves has become oval..

Okay i'll try to get the necessary tools to get the valve stem to guide clearances.
But it is highly unlikely it should smoke the moment i start the motor and while idling , but i only get smoke when revving high

But i wonder could it be that a simple valve clearance is the cause of all of this because when i adjusted the timing the rocker arms in the cyl #2 are very loose like i can rock it up and down with fingers, the manual stated clearance are like in the 0.11-13th of a MM with that small clearance it shouldnt be even moving that much ?

I took a video of the bike while running , note the noise in the head(can you tell if its the cam chain or the valves?), the left muffler sound vs the PO-TA-TO sound of the right muffler(low compression because of valve and too late opening?) , and note the blue smoke in the right muffler when i rev it.

Link to original page on YouTube.

I also would like to rule the problem out by checking the wirings of the ignition coil , the P.O replaced the key with a switch , the switch are composed of 2 wires , both positive im sure red , and white/blue .

how can my bike work without the resistor everybody is talking about , i want to know more about the wirings strictly necessary for ignition-killswitch-coil-spark-starter relay.

[Motofool]

Originally Posted by juliusmichaelhonrada

........... I also would like to rule the problem out by checking the wirings of the ignition coil , the P.O replaced the key with a switch , the switch are composed of 2 wires , both positive im sure red , and white/blue .

how can my bike work without the resistor everybody is talking about , i want to know more about the wirings strictly necessary for ignition-killswitch-coil-spark-starter relay.

White smoke is burned oil and it gets more as the engine heats up and rev's go up.
I saw no smoke like that in the video.
Recheck the clearance of the valves: you need to have a feeler gauge or a calibrated piece of steel: you cannot do it by hand only.

Check these electric schematics:
http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Wiring_...s_%26_diagrams

[juliusmichaelhonrada]

Originally Posted by Motofool

White smoke is burned oil and it gets more as the engine heats up and rev's go up.
I saw no smoke like that in the video.
Recheck the clearance of the valves: you need to have a feeler gauge or a calibrated piece of steel: you cannot do it by hand only.

Check these electric schematics:
http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Wiring_...s_%26_diagrams

Yes its not that much , it was bluish smoke in a very small amount when i rev high 8000+rpm , i think i was just overthinking it and its just the valve clearance lol.

After adjusting the valve clearances i'll get a good change oil and a filter change i'll use a higher weighted oil and see what happens

[juliusmichaelhonrada]

Some update guys , the on/off switch that the P.O exchanged for the ignition key switch is heating up as i keep the bike running i guess its an electrical problem its not the piston sticking to the cylinder that makes the starter motor weak after the motor has been warmed up, i adjusted the valve clearance but it would still die and hard to start when hot, i need some help because the parts diagram or wiring diagram has no label or whatsoever and i dont have stock terminals anymore it would be hard to identify , what i have now is the wire colors i believe it is stock

The bike is not crapping out mechanically , it is crapping out electrically

[Racer x]

There might be a 100 ohm resistor in the ignition system. Or a need for a relay somplace to carry the current. You need a diagram to sort that out.

[juliusmichaelhonrada]

Originally Posted by Racer x

There might be a 100 ohm resistor in the ignition system. Or a need for a relay somplace to carry the current. You need a diagram to sort that out.

i can see 3 wires still going through the ignition key

[juliusmichaelhonrada]

There are 4 wires going to the ignition key , and there are markings at the back ,1,2,3,4,5.

The wires on the #3 are missing. all the wires are exposed somehow like the Previous owner did try to guess which wire will work for an on/off switch as i expected..
Luckily the stock key for the 1994 ZZR400 works on the ninja 250 weird , but i have this key from a failed bike swap i use it to open the fuel tank lol.

the color of the wire that goes to the on/off switch is brown and white/blue

[juliusmichaelhonrada]

Im lost again , the schematics in the website shows only ignition key with 7 wires, mine have 5

[Racer x]

Is there any way you can post the diagram?

[juliusmichaelhonrada]

Originally Posted by Racer x

Is there any way you can post the diagram?

nevermind, i figured everything out.

ignition harness 3 positive - > on/off switch ignition bypass -> going to radiator fan -> ground to radiator but not in the switch sensor so the negative+3 positive of the ignition = short circuit .

Found out my cyl#1 ignition coil is MITSUBISHI
and the cyl#2 ignition coil is STOCK

All parts that are stock have a Made in Japan stamped on them

I dont have a tester , i know its positive because when it hits the radiator it will give a huge spark and smoke thats how i test positive wires .

The fan however , i tapped it directly in the battery to find which wire is positive and which is negative , if its wrong it will rotate and blow air instead of suck air i fixed it by going to 1 proper positive wire , and 1 ground wire going to the radiator thermal sensor i have the radiator thermal sensor with only 1 pin not the 2 pin.

it was disastrous , luckily the bike did not burn and the battery did not exploded , and what made matters worse was it doesnt have a main fuse to the positive terminal of the battery.

My junction box does not have 7 fuse like in the diagram i only have 4 , and 2 spare below it.

PARTS #
Junction box - 26021-1063

CDI - 21119-1229

Wiring Harness - **01-1819 G(the asterisk is blurred but i think the number starts with 8 and followed by another 0, + it have some markings in it 1988-1993 something like that.

I dont have the clutch switch terminal anymore the p.o cut it down and instead intertwined the wires together , where can i buy such terminal , 3 pin connector

Now everything is on stock except for the clutch switch sensor , waiting until i find a 3 pin connector terminal. The ignition key switch works i tried it but i havent tried firing the bike yet until the wires are properly soldered into place and i will buy an inline 30 amp fuse so i wont blow anything up

I need you motofool regarding that radiator fan switch 1 pin , and 2 pin thread that you posted i forgot where it is

[juliusmichaelhonrada]

Got the new key it works perfectly on the ignition switch/fuel tank/helmet lock and seat lock. Restored everything in the wiring harness taped all exposed wires , made a protective sleeve, you wont be able to tell its from 1988

Tomorrow i'll run the bike and see what happens, and i really hate my country , i cant find anything that i need i went to every hardware store including Ace Hardware , motorcycle shops and auto supply , guess what ? They dont have a radiator hose that fits my bike ... its either too big or too small..

And i cant find a f***ing electrical fittings/terminal block for the clutch switch sensor in every store i went today.

Everything works now with the key on , except for 1 thing , the front brake does not light up the tail light , but when bypass the brake sensor it lights up

[juliusmichaelhonrada]

Fired the bike and it runs , good news is my temp gauge is working , my radiator fan is not turning on can anybody tell me what wires and where should i tap my radiator fan.

What i did was the positive of the radiator fan goes to that white/blue wire that comes out in the same bundle as the Ignition coil on cylinder 1.

And my negative wire goes to the radiator fan switch i have the single pin version the one the on Right side in the pic below




....


My junction box looks like this and its not the same with the wiring diagram in the ninja wiki