August 21st, 2016, 03:27 AM | #1 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Brian
Location: NW USA
Join Date: Aug 2016 Motorcycle(s): Triumph Bonneville, Ninja 300 Posts: 204
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Need race build advice please!
Ok, first up - Are there any stock plastic bits I need to keep to go with race fairings? I'm guessing the rear undertail. I'm not sure about the soft plastic bit that goes from the outer fairings/chin and directs air to the radiator/engine. That seems like it might be handy. And I plan on keeping the stock fender. Even if I wind up getting a race fender in a package deal, I figure that's a good spare to have. I plan on selling the rest, but I want to make sure I don't eBay something that's useful.
Also, any thoughts on cost/value for the Ohlins NIX cartridges? I came across these looking around for farkles and it actually seems like a reasonable investment. A bit more than the Andreani ones on eBay, and a lot more than emulators. But, my limited experience has taught me that money spent on good suspension usually pays off and that stepping up a bit at a time is more expensive in the long run. Of course, it also means I'm gonna have to get something pretty nice for the rear as well. But hey, I've got an extra kidney... http://www.sportbiketrackgear.com/oh...kit-w-springs/
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August 21st, 2016, 07:03 AM | #2 |
Certifiable nontundrum
Name: Harper
Location: NC Milkshake stand
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MOTM - Sep '13, Sep '16
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Last futzed with by JohnnyBravo; August 21st, 2016 at 07:04 AM. Reason: :popcorn: |
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August 21st, 2016, 12:28 PM | #3 |
Certifiable nontundrum
Name: Harper
Location: NC Milkshake stand
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https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=255929
Looks like the black side panels, under seat panels both sides , and the undertake from the pics on this one, that's all the stock bits I can see maybe more ... I think that's pretty standard stuff, but some bodies may be different
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August 21st, 2016, 12:56 PM | #4 |
Certifiable nontundrum
Name: Harper
Location: NC Milkshake stand
Join Date: Mar 2013 Motorcycle(s): 2013 SE NINJA 300 Posts: Too much.
MOTM - Sep '13, Sep '16
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August 27th, 2016, 08:38 PM | #5 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Brian
Location: NW USA
Join Date: Aug 2016 Motorcycle(s): Triumph Bonneville, Ninja 300 Posts: 204
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Ok after some research, it looks like Catalyst has the side infills molded in, pretty much everybody else leaves 'em off and you can put the stock bits in if you want. Nobody seems to have the inner air dam molded in. I'd think directing fresh air at the radiator would be a worthwhile thing. Have to ask my mentors about that one.
Next question: What the heck is this white thingy? I've already BoS'd the flasher module, so it's not that. It's stuck to the undertail *really* good. Tipover sensor, maybe? If it is, can it be bypassed easily, or is it best to leave it be? One more. Is the stock filter supposed to be paper-type like most? I've got an oiled foam one in there. Kinda looks like the Uni one in my Triumph, but there's no markings. Did I get a free upgrade?
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August 28th, 2016, 09:24 PM | #6 |
Certifiable nontundrum
Name: Harper
Location: NC Milkshake stand
Join Date: Mar 2013 Motorcycle(s): 2013 SE NINJA 300 Posts: Too much.
MOTM - Sep '13, Sep '16
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No the stock filter is black and spongey...
Idk what that thing is though
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August 29th, 2016, 06:00 AM | #7 |
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Probably the license plate light connector.
Edit: Wrong manual. It's marked as the "Kawasaki Diagnostic System Connector". |
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August 29th, 2016, 07:08 AM | #8 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Brian
Location: NW USA
Join Date: Aug 2016 Motorcycle(s): Triumph Bonneville, Ninja 300 Posts: 204
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Ok, sounds like something I probably don't really need, but it's not on the list of stuff I can pull for a supersport build. Thanks. I probably should get a manual. Anyone know if there's a PDF version floating around?
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Let he who has never re-used a crush washer cast the first stone... |
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August 29th, 2016, 08:44 AM | #9 | |
Vintage Screwball
Name: B
Location: Washington
Join Date: Feb 2016 Motorcycle(s): 2011 Ninja 250, 2008 Ninja 250, 2019 KTM 1290SDR, 2017 FZ10 Posts: A lot.
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Quote:
Under the connector is a plug that goes through a molded hole. If you squeeze the pip underneath, the plug will come out and you can zip tie it somewhere else. Leave the cap on the end too.
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2 out of 2 members found this post helpful. |
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