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Old April 28th, 2016, 03:51 PM   #7161
SLOWn60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ghostt View Post
Don't forget the O-rings too.

When I ordered mine, I ordered a several to have on hand.
I have dozens of them! Filters too! First time I've cleaned the screen though (didn't know until the other day that it existed!). The screen was clean as a whistle
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Old April 28th, 2016, 04:13 PM   #7162
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Originally Posted by SLOWn60 View Post
I have dozens of them! Filters too! First time I've cleaned the screen though (didn't know until the other day that it existed!). The screen was clean as a whistle
Good deal, glad to hear the screen was clean, mine had a few pieces of sealant.
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Old April 28th, 2016, 04:16 PM   #7163
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Good deal, glad to hear the screen was clean, mine had a few pieces of sealant.
ooohh man.

Silicone Fred strikes again!

I hope that was from the PO....LOL!
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Old April 28th, 2016, 04:18 PM   #7164
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ooohh man.

Silicone Fred strikes again!

I hope that was from the PO....LOL!
It was.
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Old April 28th, 2016, 04:20 PM   #7165
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It was.
I had no doubts, although I managed to plug up a radiator with silicone....

Long story short, the bottom of my solvent tank had a crap ton of silicone in it from parts washing. I washed a cylinder head in it, then installed it. The bits of silicone went from the cylinder head to the radiator.

Keep your solvent tank CLEAN!!! Lesson learned the hard way.
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Old April 28th, 2016, 04:27 PM   #7166
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When/if I use sealant, I use it very minimally, for those very reasons.
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Old April 29th, 2016, 07:46 AM   #7167
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I don't use silicone for sealant. I use minimal amounts of Yamabond 4 every time sealant is required.
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Old April 29th, 2016, 09:27 PM   #7168
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image.jpg

Project Tatsuko is underway!

Thanks to the awesome DIY guides, I have my front fairings off. Battery is out and on a charger. Next step is draining out all the old fluids and fuel.

Edit: no idea why photo keeps showing upside down. Sorry, too tired from this week to feel like messing with more computer crap.
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Old May 1st, 2016, 11:11 PM   #7169
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Installed a Kriega US-20 on the bike. Removed and installed rear fairings multiple times because I did something wrong or the pillion seat wouldn't latch back on.

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Old May 2nd, 2016, 08:13 AM   #7170
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Put her on another diet. instrument gauges are removed, going to go with only a tach.
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Old May 2nd, 2016, 08:41 AM   #7171
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Bled the brakes and omg what a difference it makes. Previous owner may not have ever done it since the fluid was almost black (on the front).

While doing so, discovered the source of the faint fuel smell. Found a couple drops of fuel hanging off the bottom of the carbs and one of the rubber intake boots not seated on the carb properly.
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Old May 2nd, 2016, 08:57 AM   #7172
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Nice Kriega! I've got a 10L on mine and I love it. I have to pay attention to closing it up, though, since more than once I have left it open.... My hubby scared me once on a ride when I'd done that. I hear "Oh, stop, stop, stop!!!" on the headset and I thought something was dangerously wrong, but it was just that I'd left my pack open. Whew.
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Old May 2nd, 2016, 12:29 PM   #7173
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MyTriggaz View Post
Bled the brakes and omg what a difference it makes. Previous owner may not have ever done it since the fluid was almost black (on the front).

While doing so, discovered the source of the faint fuel smell. Found a couple drops of fuel hanging off the bottom of the carbs and one of the rubber intake boots not seated on the carb properly.
Did you service the calipers?


I recommend that every time you change your pads, you service the calipers, he's my write-up to help you out. It should fix your initial problem, and keep your calipers in top working order.

Quote:
For those of you whom are scratching their heads, here you go,*


Front Caliper Service (also rear as well)

Many folks have posted here with a Varity of front brake problems.

*Many of which are attributable to the lack of proper maintenance.

*Here’s how you can always have a brake like when your bike was new.

A short list of the problems and the causes.

Soft lever or lever goes to the bar.

The usual cause is the pistons are pushed too far back into the caliper by a flexing a warped, coned, disc.

*Using up too much piston travel before the disc is pinched.

Juddering in sync with wheel rotation.

The disc is worn, and its thickness varies. *This causes the caliper to “sink” into the thin part and when the thick part comes around, it gets wedged into a smaller space causing a tightening of the brake. Then the tight spot passes through and it like the brake is released. Then repeat, repeat.

Cupped, coned, or warped disc.

Unfortunately this is a common problem with EX’s the cause is the disc is stretched in the center due to being rigidly bolted to the wheel. *The huge force of braking is transmitted to the wheel through the webbed center of the disc which gets stretched and becomes larger than the space it occupies in the center of the disc. This causes the center to push to the side trying to find room for itself.

*Resulting is a cone shaped disc.

Soft lever 2

The caliper has pistons only on one side, so as the pads wear the caliper must shift sideways apply even pressure on both sides of the disc.

*To allow this the caliper floats on two pins. *If these pins get dry (no grease) dirty or bent. The caliper won’t center itself and bends the disc to wherever it is.

This take up lever travel and when released pushes the pistons further back than necessary.

*If not fixed will eventually destroy the disc (warp it).


Ok how to prevent all of the above.

When new pad time comes around, resist the temptation to just pop in new one and go.

*Every time you must do these things.

Remove caliper disassemble and clean it.

Clean and re grease the sliding pins.

Polish the caliper pistons to remove dirt. If you just push the pistons back into the caliper leaks will result. Or binding.

Tools required:
12 mm socket
8mm open end wrench
3” or bigger C clamp
a supply of new bake fluid.
wire brush and or steel wool.

Remove the caliper from the fork leg but leave the brake line on.

Remove the old pads and the mounting frame (the sliding pins)

Remove the cover from the Master Cylinder on the Handel bar.

Attach the C clamp to one of the pistons but don’t squeeze it. *Pump the lever on the bar slowly to push out the other piston almost all the way. *Put the C clamp on that piston and push out the other one.

Remove both pistons by hand.

Remove all the rubber part from the caliper, the seals are in the grooves in the caliper and dull pointed thingy will get them out easy.

Disconnect the caliper from the brake line.

Soak all the rubber parts in new clean brake fluid * ONLY!!!!! * Rub them with you fingers till as clean as new.

The caliper can be cleaned with a wire brush or even a Moto tool for the internal grooves, NOW’s the time to paint it if you wish.

Polish the pistons till they are smooth and shinny. They are chrome plated. If any of the plating is chipped or damaged below the dust cap groove. *Replace it.

The master cylinder is the subject of another write up and we’ll assume it in good working order here.

If you suspect your disc is bad, your bets bet is to replace it with an after market one fro EBC or Galpher.

*Don’t remove the disc unless you intend to replace it. *It will assume a new shape if it is * stressed and will not be flat again. You can try to check its condition by placing a straight edge across the face of the pad swept area looking for any distortion.

Re assembly

Take the nice clean rubber seals and install them into the caliper then the Dust covers.
Wet all the rubber with new clean brake fluid and partially fill the caliper with new fluid.

Push the pistons though the dust seals and into the caliper body until the dust covers snap into the grooves.

Fill the MC with new fluid and pump the lever while holding the Line above the MC till clean fluid flows.

Connect the line to the caliper while holding it above the MC.

Pump the lever with the bleeder valve open till fluid flow from the bleeder.

*Hold the caliper so that the bleeder is the highest point.

Close the bleeder and pump more fluid into the caliper but don’t push the pistons all the way out.

Then squeeze the pistons all the way back in and install the new pads.

Re grease the slider pins and assemble the dust seals and re mount the caliper on the forks but leave the bolts loose.

Now clamp the caliper to the disc with the brake lever.

Look at the space between the fork lugs and the caliper, clamp and release a few times as you tighten the bolts by hand. It one lug touches much before the other the odds are you mounting bracket is bent. You can straighten it.

*After you get it the best you can. Some shim washers made from alum can stock can be fitted to the loose side.*

** *What we are doing here is trying to minimize the bedd in time and gets the best pad life.


Ok with everything tight you should be through, Notice we don’t need to bleed the brakes, but if you screwed up in any of the above steps, you might do that here.

Be careful to Bedd in the new pads gently.

*Too much pressure too soon will burn the pad material as only a small area will be gripping at first. You also won’t have full braking power till the pads are fully familiar with the disc



I also recommend flush and fill with new brake fluid, also I'd go with 5.1DOT.

No matter what kind of brake fluid you choose, always periodically flush and fill with new fluid.

This is the one I use



https://m.motul.com/ca/en-us/product...-1-brake-fluid



Also inspect the brake lines, replace is needed, http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Stainle..._lines_upgrade


Quote:
Venhill Introduction
Greetings everyone!

I wanted to take a moment to introduce you to Venhill...

Venhill manufactures some of the highest quality brake lines and cables you can get. We've been in business since 1971 and currently offer a full range of brake lines for the Ninja 250, first and second generations.

Our website, venhillusa.com, is setup to take orders for any year Ninja 250 as well as many other bikes. You can pick your bike and then customize your kits as you wish. We offer many different colors of hose as well as different finishes and materials for hardware. All of these options can be selected during the purchase process, so you'll be sure to get exactly what you want. You can even add length to hoses if needed.

To get an idea of our reputation, have a look at our eBay feedback.

If you have any questions or comments about Venhill products or brake lines or cables in general, please share them. I'm happy to be a resource for general information about brake lines and cables as well. Technical questions are welcome!

Please take a look at our website and let us know what you think. We just recently did a complete makeover and are interested in feedback. (venhillusa.com)

Have a great day and stay safe,

Chris
Venhill USA

For the detail oriented out there, some interesting things you might want to know about Venhill and our products:

Our factory is ISO 9001-2000 approved, which basically means we have the ability to consistently produce quality products. To qualify for ISO approval your factory and quality control mechanisms are evaluated as to whether your "good" products happen by chance, or if they are a result of good quality control.

All of our hoses are built to DOT/TUV spec and have been certified as such. We submitted hoses to the TUV (German DOT) for testing and only by passing are we allowed to use the TUV symbol on our hoses. Every hose we sell is built to these specifications, even if it is for track or offroad use only. It just makes for a higher quality product.

All of our hoses are hydraulically crimped, not hand crimped, and leak/pressure tested in a water bath. Yes, we immerse every hose we build in a water bath and pressurize it to check for leaks and to verify integrity of the crimps.

Venhill's hose core is authentic DuPont Teflon which is more expensive than generic "PTFE" but is stronger with a smoother inner bore. This is surrounded by 96 strands of braided marine grade stainless wire. 96 strands is more dense than some other braided line brands and the marine grade alloy is a stronger metal, which reduces expansion, the reason rubber hoses feel "spongy". Finally, we coat the braid with a UV-resistant PVC, extruded on during manufacture. This protects the hose as well as body and paint work.

Our hose design uses free-floating swivels, which allow you to loosely install everything before the hoses are tightened into place. This ensures the hose is not forced into a twist or kink when the banjo bolts are tightened. If you're worried about leaks, don't be. Our swivels work on the same premise as every threaded connection on a car or truck.

As you can see, we're sort of obsessed with quality and safety. We look at it this way: If we're asking you to put our brake lines on your bike, you're trusting us with the integrity of your brakes. That's a serious concept and we refuse to compromise when it comes to the integrity of your brakes.
I have these stainless steel lines on my Ninjette, and so far, some good, I recommend getting the stainless steel banjo bolts, I noticed my chrome ones have started to rust slightly, a good excuse for me to upgrade to titanium

On my 91 EX500 I have Spiegler, in orange to match that bike.

Quote:
So you have made the decision that your OEM rubber lines need to be changed.

So why choose Spiegler Brake Lines?

A: Strength

That’s the short answer. But it doesn’t tell the whole story.

Spiegler Brake Lines strength comes from our innovation and research, materials and construction, knowledge and experience, service and support.

At Spiegler, we believe that the more you know about what we put into our products, the better you’ll be able to answer that question yourself.


That’s the short version; now let’s cover this topic more in depth.

Most OEM manufacturer recommend that you replace your rubber brake lines every 2 to 3 years. Why do the OEM’s recommend this? Over time OEM rubber lines deteriorate rapidly due to expansion and UV damage. This leads to increased braking distances and possible failure.

At Spiegler, our brake lines are made of only the finest materials available.

Outside casings are made of tightly woven stainless steel braiding that exceeds our competitors
The inside is made with DuPont’s PTFE-Teflon which eliminates expansion and adds durability
Crimp sleeves are made from stainless steel; competitors are using mostly carbon steel
Unique patented adjustable banjo fittings eliminate line twist during installation.
30% weight savings in comparison to other stainless steel braided brake lines
DOT approved
Lifetime warranty
117 color combinations possible which allows customers to personalize their bikes
We can build your lines to any specifications for custom applications
All brake line kits come ready for install

For more information on why you should choose Spiegler Brake Lines, you can view the following pages for a more detailed look into Spiegler brake lines.

When it comes to safety items like brakes, when in doubt, throw them out, it's your safety in your hands, and is cheaper than a visit to the ER.

Buy quality pads,I personally recommend EBC brand either the HH, or the Extreme HH.

EBC full floating rotor, replace the OEM rubber line with a stainless steel braided brake line, cheaper than replacing them with OEM.

On my 500 I have Spiegler line

http://www.spieglerusa.com/brakes/cy...line-kits.html

On my Ninja 250 i went with Venhill

http://www.venhillusa.com/products.html

With all that, it will stop on a dime, and leave you nine cents in change.

look here http://ebcbrakes.com/products/motorcycle/

And also read this, http://www.ex-500.com/wiki/index.php...otors_and_Pads

That should answer any questions you might have.
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Old May 2nd, 2016, 02:03 PM   #7174
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Holy crap ghosst! Lol, I hope you have that saved somewhere that you copied and pasted from!

On a side note, nothing was "wrong" with the brakes. I stopped in what I would consider a normal distance and only replaced and bled the fluid because out if curiosity I checked the brake fluid and noticed it was extremely dark, so I decided to bleed the system. I will certainly keep your post in mind when I go to replace the pads in the near future.
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Old May 2nd, 2016, 02:43 PM   #7175
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MyTriggaz View Post
Holy crap ghosst! Lol, I hope you have that saved somewhere that you copied and pasted from!

On a side note, nothing was "wrong" with the brakes. I stopped in what I would consider a normal distance and only replaced and bled the fluid because out if curiosity I checked the brake fluid and noticed it was extremely dark, so I decided to bleed the system. I will certainly keep your post in mind when I go to replace the pads in the near future.
Yes it's my saved write-up.

Also if the brake fluid was that bad, I very strongly recommend you service the calipers ASAP per my write-up. After all we talking about brakes, and with the front doing almost all the braking, you need to keep them in perfect condition.

By the condition of the brake fluid, I'm betting the calipers have NEVER been serviced.
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Old May 2nd, 2016, 02:56 PM   #7176
MyTriggaz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ghostt View Post
Yes it's my saved write-up.

Also if the brake fluid was that bad, I very strongly recommend you service the calipers ASAP per my write-up. After all we talking about brakes, and with the front doing almost all the braking, you need to keep them in perfect condition.

By the condition of the brake fluid, I'm betting the calipers have NEVER been serviced.
In guessing you're right which is why I'm planning on doing the brakes in the next couple of weeks since the pads are starting to get low in my opinion.
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Old May 2nd, 2016, 03:01 PM   #7177
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MyTriggaz View Post
In guessing you're right which is why I'm planning on doing the brakes in the next couple of weeks since the pads are starting to get low in my opinion.

Good deal then.

I'm getting ready to do some work on SERENITY, starting with tires, and other things boxes have been arriving, just waiting on a few more.

Stay tuned........
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Old May 2nd, 2016, 08:50 PM   #7178
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CaliGrrl View Post
Nice Kriega! I've got a 10L on mine and I love it. I have to pay attention to closing it up, though, since more than once I have left it open.... My hubby scared me once on a ride when I'd done that. I hear "Oh, stop, stop, stop!!!" on the headset and I thought something was dangerously wrong, but it was just that I'd left my pack open. Whew.
A saw a guy on a sportbike once with his backpack zipper open and papers flying out all over the highway. I pulled up next to him in my cage and pointed to my back. He looked at me and took off.

I suspect the wind pulled his zippers open.
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Old May 3rd, 2016, 09:43 AM   #7179
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Yeah, that can happen for sure with a backpack. I'm surprised the guy didn't recognize you were trying to tell him something. Motorcycle riders seem more aware than cagers about signals between people.

What I like about the Kriega is that it's *not* going to come open in transit. The flap rolls over twice, and clips to the body of the pack. I just forget to close it..... user error here!
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Old May 3rd, 2016, 10:00 AM   #7180
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Quote:
Originally Posted by algs26 View Post
A saw a guy on a sportbike once with his backpack zipper open and papers flying out all over the highway. I pulled up next to him in my cage and pointed to my back. He looked at me and took off.

I suspect the wind pulled his zippers open.
That happened to me on the freeway, except my pack had nothing but clothes.

I passed a car and it sped up and started pacing me. I ignored it at first but finally looked over and the guy was waving and pointing at his back. Took me a second but I got his message. Luckily, there was a rest area less than half a mile ahead so I waved thank you, gave him the thumbs up and pulled off.

Sure enough, the zipper had opened on my pack. I don't know how but I lost nothing out of it.
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Old May 5th, 2016, 03:17 PM   #7181
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My back pack came open a couple of days ago and I surmise that it's because I had the zippers at the top and the wind caught them in the tiny gap between them and forced them open. I now close the zippers and put them on the side so the wind can't force them open. Haven't had an issue since.

Today I removed the rear wheel and replaced it with another rim that I picked up for free from a local member. The old dunlop tire was toast and the kush was very sloppy. The new rim is silver instead of black and the Kush was nice and tight. Cleaned the chain and lubed it up, tightened to 1" of play and aligned it.

Going to swap over the front tire to the silver rim this weekend, maybe.


Took the front sprocket cover of and cleaned in there. Going to have to get a new front sprocket at the end of the season. Going to hold out until then and maybe change the sprocket sizes.

Also decided to check the front tire pressure as it felt a little sloppy this morning, 11psi!!!!!!!

Pumped that 'ish up to 32 on the front and 36 in the rear on the new tire.

Hoping I don't have a slow leak on the front and will monitor it.


Took it for a ride around the block and, WOW, totally different bike now.
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Old May 5th, 2016, 03:22 PM   #7182
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My back pack came open a couple of days ago and I surmise that it's because I had the zippers at the top and the wind caught them in the tiny gap between them and forced them open. I now close the zippers and put them on the side so the wind can't force them open. Haven't had an issue since.
Oh so very much this!!!
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Old May 5th, 2016, 05:59 PM   #7183
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Quick turn throttle tube. 20 degrees less by my measure.
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Old May 5th, 2016, 07:18 PM   #7184
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Quick turn throttle tube. 20 degrees less by my measure.
That's what she said
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Old May 5th, 2016, 07:20 PM   #7185
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Today I noticed an intermittent ticking noise coming fro the area around the CCT. So with 37k on it a new one has been ordered, I'll take it apart tomorrow just for S&G and see what's up.
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Old May 6th, 2016, 01:22 PM   #7186
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Today I noticed an intermittent ticking noise coming fro the area around the CCT. So with 37k on it a new one has been ordered, I'll take it apart tomorrow just for S&G and see what's up.


Update; I removed and cleaned the CCT, but nothing seems out of place. A few flecks of crud but nothing alarming, or a red neon arrow pointing to anything, I did notice the oil was a few ounces shy, so I topped it off.

My new CCT shipped today from Partzilla, so hopefully nothing goes boom, bang til it arrives.

Cost with shipping was $42.15 USD



I really hate mysteries when it comes to mechanical issues. I would have been happier finding something wrong.

If it's not the CCT, then it's pull the clutch cover, and do some exploring.
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Old May 8th, 2016, 04:47 PM   #7187
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Checked valve adjustment, changed oil and coolant on the blue 2001. Wired up tail light on the cafe racer. Took all 4 out for rides.
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Old May 9th, 2016, 10:39 AM   #7188
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Ordered 2 spare keys from www.keys4urride.com, and supplied the key code from the helmet lock to have them cut. Cost 2 key blanks, cutting, and shipping was $25.60.

Having only one key makes me a bit nervous, so having spares is always a good thing.

http://www.keys4urride.com/kawasaki-...rrsumig9kgqu6y

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/What_do..._about_keys%3F

Look at "What if I lose all my keys?" Part to find the key code.
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Old May 9th, 2016, 10:42 AM   #7189
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ordered new front tire
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Old May 9th, 2016, 08:00 PM   #7190
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https://highwayphotos.smugmug.com/Su...00/i-tCQpCBJ/A

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Old May 9th, 2016, 10:45 PM   #7191
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I love a woman in ATGATT Damn sexy
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Old May 10th, 2016, 09:26 AM   #7192
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Old May 10th, 2016, 07:20 PM   #7193
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Top Case

I installed an SW Motech Alu top rack adaptor and then I released my mod'd bicycle panniers back to bicycle duty because I now have all the carrying capacity I need on my Ninja ... I blogged about the experience... I just started riding last year, so this is all new to me ... I didn't even imagine how big a mechanic I am becoming .... it's all good though!!

https://bikerbossons.wordpress.com/2...nja-1998-2007/

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Old May 12th, 2016, 02:26 PM   #7194
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Originally Posted by Ghostt View Post
Ordered 2 spare keys from www.keys4urride.com, and supplied the key code from the helmet lock to have them cut. Cost 2 key blanks, cutting, and shipping was $25.60.

Having only one key makes me a bit nervous, so having spares is always a good thing.

http://www.keys4urride.com/kawasaki-...rrsumig9kgqu6y

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/What_do..._about_keys%3F

Look at "What if I lose all my keys?" Part to find the key code.
Keys arrived today and worked perfectly, sent them a thank you note even.

Also the new CCT arrived as well, I have off tomorrow so I'll be installing that. Otherwise still waiting a few boxes to show up to have some real fun, hope they get here soon.

Some of the smaller has been delivered already, Hint atomic number 22
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Old May 12th, 2016, 08:57 PM   #7195
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First canyon ride!

Also, polished the scratches on her exhaust a little with some metal polish... I think they're too deep for hand buffing though. And WD-40'd a bunch of stuff on Flying's recommendation.
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Old May 12th, 2016, 09:04 PM   #7196
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I didn't do this today. It was actually a couple of weeks ago. I reupholstered the seat. The old one had some slices in it and was looking tired.



Here's how I did it: https://bikerbossons.wordpress.com/2...torcycle-seat/
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Old May 13th, 2016, 09:54 AM   #7197
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First canyon ride!
Whooo! Canyons are the best. Where did you go?
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Old May 13th, 2016, 11:33 AM   #7198
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Replaced bent hardware on brake side rearset.
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Whooo! Canyons are the best. Where did you go?
Pssssh. The track is where it's at
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Old May 13th, 2016, 07:28 PM   #7199
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Keys arrived today and worked perfectly, sent them a thank you note even.

Also the new CCT arrived as well, I have off tomorrow so I'll be installing that. Otherwise still waiting a few boxes to show up to have some real fun, hope they get here soon.

Some of the smaller has been delivered already, Hint atomic number 22
Installed the new CCT, and adjusted the chain a little bit, the noise is now gone, after a short test ride anyway. I'll do more road testing tomorrow
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Old May 14th, 2016, 07:44 PM   #7200
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Replaced bent hardware on brake side rearset.
Pssssh. The track is where it's at
I may end up there at some point but canyons are far more accessible for me here.

Quote:
Originally Posted by algs26 View Post
Installed a Kriega US-20 on the bike. Removed and installed rear fairings multiple times because I did something wrong or the pillion seat wouldn't latch back on.
I initially had trouble getting my Kriega anchors set, and am still considering redoing it. I don't like the length they gave me (the little rim that the seat sets up against is exactly where the hard part of the anchor wants to sit, which means the seat doesn't go on). Plus, if I do my own, I could get them done in purple.
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