Bike wont start yet again

[Edhead]

Lost my keys, bike sat for a while because no one could make a key for it. I thought I was going to have to replace the ignition so I took the bike apart, fairings, tank, front/windshield. Then it rained, so all the electrical connectors that were unplugged: ignition, turn signals, headlights and everything got wet. Get a call back from a locksmith, get a key made. COOL. Get everything hooked backed together (correctly, I think), no start. Lights on the dash are on. Headlights are not on (tried switching connectors around to see if maybe that was the deal, no luck). Battery is reading 12.6 volts after a charge. No sound no nothing though. I hit the start button and it doesn't even try to turn over, no clicking. Hoping that the rain didn't **** up the whole wiring of the bike, and that it's just the battery. Any ideas appreciated.

[jkv45]

Do the lights dim when you hit the button? Got a neutral light?

If the lights dim, read the battery voltage when you hit the button. It should be over 10V. If it drops way off, chances are the battery is bad. Even a battery that reads 12.7V (fully charged) can be bad when under load. Check all the cables to and from the battery.

Look over this section for more ideas - https://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Troubleshooting

[DannoXYZ]

Use a voltmeter to trace path of power coming from battery:

1. Voltage at battery +terminal
2. Voltage going into ignition switch
3. Voltage going out of ignition switch
4. Voltage going into kill switch
5. Voltage going out of kill switch
6. Voltage going into start switch
7. Voltage going out of start switch
Etc. etc all the way to starter

At some point, you’ll find no voltage when there should be battery voltage. Previous junction or component is suspect. R&R as necessary.

[JohnnyBravo]

[JEFFJ]

ok, this should be where you start: go to the starter solenoid. there will be 3 small wires and to large ones. one small wire (usually white) will go to rectifier (done worry about this wire) The other 2 small wires (usually black and yellow & yellow with red) are your control wires. the black and yellow will be your ground. you can test for ground here by using a test light: connect the test light clamp to positive battery post and touch other end to this wire, the test light should illuminate. if it doesn't, go backwards thru the wiring diagram to figure out where the circuit is open. the other wire ((yellow with red) is your power wire. this wire should have battery voltage present when the starter button is pressed. check this with the test light also. hook the test light clamp to negative battery post and the other end to this wire, push the starter button and the test light should illuminate. if it does not, trace the wire backwards through the thru the wiring to find the open circuit. if both wires test ok your problem is either the starter solenoid, or the starter itself. the solenoid should click when hitting the start button if both wires you tested are good. if it doesn't, replace it. let me know what you find out

[Edhead]

Thanks for the replies. Voltage at battery is good. Voltage to ignition would be the 7 pin connector under the gas tank? I think it's good. idk here's a video. Let me know if i'm doing this right. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yRyA...ature=youtu.be


If I did get this right, how do I check the voltage coming out of the ignition?

[DannoXYZ]

That looks like correct procedure. Snap that connector together and back-probe terminal on other side to verify there’s good connection. Then follow wire towards ignition switch and verify voltage makes it in. And turns ON and leaves the switch properly. Same with all other switches. Voltage disappears somewhere?

Now, this is the relay activation circuit. You can skip ahead and verify voltage at relay’s activation terminal when you push start button.

You’ll also want to test proper relay operation with power going into and out of relay when activated.

[Edhead]

leads were too fat to get a good back-probe, and then they ripped/fell off(lol, get what ya pay for). Gonna get some pins in the next day or two to get a good back probe. Tried shoving the exposed copper of the multimeter leads in there just to see what happend. Looks like there's power coming out the back of the connector. Brown + white was at .2v when volt meter was set @ 20. same for brown + white/grey. Am I going to need to open up the ignition switch to make sure there's power to it?

Sorry for noob questions.

[DannoXYZ]

I usually wrap thin paper-clip around probe-end to make a thinner "poker".

At this point, you might want to work backwards starting at starter-relay.

1. test activation-signal at relay when you push START button. This tests every component between battery and relay. If you don't get +12v when you push START, then work upstream and test wiring and switches in between.

2. also test for switched-power going into relay and going out to starter when it's activated

BTW - did you test 30-amp main-fuse?

[cbinker]

did you check the fuses? or the kill switch? bike in neutral?

[RcTechnologies]

Many times I have attempted to start my bike with the kickstand down in 1st gear....safety switch/rider error.

There should also be a contact switch on the clutch lever, but I cannot recall in what conditions it will prevent the bike from starting. Someone else fill that in please?

[DannoXYZ]

On newgen to start:

1. In neutral, will start regardless of clutch or kickstand up or down
2. In gear, will start with kickstand up regardless of clutch in or out

Seems clutch isn’t that important