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Old May 3rd, 2011, 07:52 AM   #1
Hijakd
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Question Remote start = headache

Hi, I have installed a beret 5000m alarm on my 08' 250r, I followed another members diy on here but am stumped when it comes to the remote start working......I have searched and searched and found that I need a resistor in the ignition wiring somewhere? anyone shed some light on this? Its trying to turn over but not kicking.....I have also picked up something about it having to read 2 different voltages the same or something.....I am stumped......and now my bike is pulled apart till this gets worked out lol

(this is the diy I followed)

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?p=272775
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Old May 3rd, 2011, 08:43 AM   #2
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resistors

trying to work out if it should be wired up like number 1 or 2.

(pic deleted)
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Old May 3rd, 2011, 08:54 AM   #3
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#1
nice drawing, LOL
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Old May 3rd, 2011, 09:03 AM   #4
Hijakd
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lol cheers mate, I am takin that pic down in case some bloody thief out there ever tries to gather info about our bikes ignition system. I mean he can anyway I guess but not from me lol
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Old May 4th, 2011, 10:56 PM   #5
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I just wanted to point out the irony in your name and the topic of this thread (or really more the item you installed on your bike) haha.

On the flip side, why would you want to run a remote start anyways? It has been said that letting the engine run without airflow is usually what wears the engine down the most. Especially after starting cold.
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Old May 5th, 2011, 03:13 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leed View Post
I just wanted to point out the irony in your name and the topic of this thread (or really more the item you installed on your bike) haha.

On the flip side, why would you want to run a remote start anyways? It has been said that letting the engine run without airflow is usually what wears the engine down the most. Especially after starting cold.

What do you do when your letting the bike warm up then, push it down the street? It's just a nice way to warm it up with out having to run out to the garage to start it. Plus you can warm the bike while gearing up.
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Old May 5th, 2011, 06:51 AM   #7
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Haha, not exactly. If the bike bogs down when I start it or if it bogs down when I get in gear, then I add some choke, enough to bring it close to 2k. Then I just ride like normal for the next bit, shut the choke off when I can. The airflow thing is iffy, especially if you consider our bikes are part liquid cooled, but who knows. This was just my understanding of it (not to leave the bike warming up for more than a minute, really). Perhaps I'm doing it all wrong! Usually my 'warming up' takes 15-20 seconds tops.
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Old May 5th, 2011, 07:47 AM   #8
Hijakd
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leed View Post
I just wanted to point out the irony in your name and the topic of this thread (or really more the item you installed on your bike) haha.

On the flip side, why would you want to run a remote start anyways?
Its cause I strut up to my bike and point the remote between my legs while pointing into the air yelling "LET THERE BE LIGHT"when I start my bike.......why how do you do it?
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Old May 5th, 2011, 03:58 PM   #9
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That would be pretty awesome if you could do that. I'm also forgetting the fact that you all probably have FI bikes. A remote start on a carbureted bike wouldn't function anyways (unless it's always warm, at which point it'd be defunct).

If you use it, more power to you (and it as well), I suppose I am just missing something is all, haha (like God power).
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Old May 6th, 2011, 11:58 AM   #10
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lol cheers mate, its really just a gimmick anyway right, it is not really practical on a bike, as-well as that it compromises security a little.
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Old May 6th, 2011, 12:15 PM   #11
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Poseriffic!
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Old February 20th, 2012, 08:37 PM   #12
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@Hijakd

Care to share that picture you deleted above? I'm having dramas with the remote start also. Have it up to the point where it kicks over but doesn't start. Here in Sydney I never need to use the choke so I can remote start it from my balcony at home/from the window at work, and by the time I get to is (2-3mins) I can ride off without it bogging and without having to stand around it like I'm trying to show it off or something (people don't get that's no matter how new, bikes always should be warmed up for a bit).
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Old February 22nd, 2012, 06:13 AM   #13
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ohhhh man holy **** I forgot all about this thread........I never ended up bothering with the remote start in the end I couldnt work it all out.......and that pic man......long gone...**** I cant even remember what number 1 was now....from memory you have to do this I think

you splice the resistor in between the two wire effectively joining them (bridging them together, you shouldnt have to cut anything)
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Old March 10th, 2012, 09:09 PM   #14
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this is the same system thats was used on older GM vehicles.



doing it this way keeps the system in tact when you arent using the remote start, otherwise just short the 2 wires together with the proper value resistor.
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Old March 11th, 2012, 01:32 AM   #15
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Could this thread help at all?
Ignition delete
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Old April 25th, 2012, 09:15 PM   #16
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!!!SOLVED!!! How to get remote start to actually kick over and run

If you're like me you've hooked in the remote start and the bike kicks, but doesn't start and run.

Found the time to nut it out. Solution is below:

You locate the ingnition conector under the fuel tank and disconect it (this way you dont need to disconect the battery).

Find the brown and grey wires on the ignition side of the plug.

Cut the smaller grey wire about 10-15cm from the plug and strip a small section of the brown wire back about 10-15cm from the plug.

Then just get a 100ohm resistor and solder it between the brown and grey wires.

Basically the brown wire feeds 12v to the ignition barrel when you turn the key it feeds the gray wire back 12v via a 100ohms resistor inside the barrel.
So all you're doing is bypassing the resistor in the ignition barrel and jumping it before the barrel.
This now gives the bike the right signal to start.

Just cover up the cut end of the grey wire from the ignition side.

If you have a multi meter just measure the resistence (ohms) from the brown wire to the grey at the plug and you should have 100ohms.

Use heat shrink or electrical tape to cover all joins and make it water proof.

Plug it back together and you should be in business.

Jump around with joy and annoy your neighbours with your new toy
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Old April 27th, 2012, 05:07 AM   #17
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I assume this is for FI models only...?

My SPY 5000 was successfully installed on my carb'd 09 SE with no relay/resistor mods necessary.
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Old April 27th, 2012, 07:49 AM   #18
Tay
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dubojr1:
Here in Australia, only the carbs where sold, no FI.

Like naughtylion and everyone else having remote start issues, my remote start would crank but not start because of this so called anti hot wire feature (or whatever they call it).
When the remote start tries to crank, it turns over about two times but nothing happens, however the ignition is still on because the alarm does not know if the engine is started or not.
With the ignition still on by the alarm, if you try to start the bike like you normally would with start button. Same problem, it will crank but not start, now if you turn the key to ON (with the ignition still on from the alarm) and try to start the bike, it starts first go. So it's definitely something to do with the extra signal.

My Ninja is a 2011 model, so I'm not sure this feature was added in 2010 onwards or not?

After contacting naughtylion via PM to see if he sorted this out, to my luck he did! and my PM reminded him to update this post

A picture is worth a thousand words, I successfully got remote start to work and decided to take some happy snaps.

BIG THANKS to naughtylion to getting this worked out!

To get to the ignition plug, the tank will need to be removed.
Below is the plug your looking for.




Unplug the plug and the carefully pass the plug under the frame, this is so you have more room to work with the plug.
These are the two wires you will be working with.




You have a few options here, naughtylion suggested to cut the GREY wire, I decided not to, so I popped the plug out instead, just in case I need to put it back to standard later
I didn't take a picture, but I also popped out the BROWN wire as well.




To pop the plugs out, looking at the plug face on, you notice a little gap on the top of the connection.
Now as you can see with the removed plug, that raised piece metal is what's preventing the plug from removing.
I got a good size paper clip and inserted in the gap, what you are trying to do is bend the raise metal back down so you can remove the plug. With the paper clip inserted all the way in, I also had another small screw driver to push the plug back to remove.
Repeat this step to also remove the BROWN wire.




Now you need to get these bad boys, I got a 100ohm (0.5w) resistor, 0.45c for a pack of 8.



With my fancy Paint Shop Pro skills
You need the resistor to be connect between the BROWN and GREY wire, this last step will be left up to you, you need to work out the best way to connect the two.
For me, I popped out the BROWN wire as well, I soldered the resister to both wires and carefully connected the BROWN wire back into the plug. You MUST leave the GREY wire unplugged, the GREY wire should only be connected to the BROWN wire via the resistor.




Plug the ignition plug back in and put the fuel tank back on and connect everything up, then test by first starting your bike as per normal, making sure it works, then try the remote start, make sure it can start (if the bike is cold, suggest to put the choke on), if it starts, congratulations! now try turning the bike off with the alarm, if it turns off, start putting your bike back together.
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Old April 27th, 2012, 08:07 AM   #19
dubojr1
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Wow this is interesting. Why does my setup work and others does not even though the alarms are pretty much identical.

Glad it's working for you now.
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Old April 24th, 2013, 07:27 AM   #20
boomer187um
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dubojr1 View Post
Wow this is interesting. Why does my setup work and others does not even though the alarms are pretty much identical.

Glad it's working for you now.
im wondering the same thing
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Old May 17th, 2017, 04:40 PM   #21
AvinKuang
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tay View Post
dubojr1:
Here in Australia, only the carbs where sold, no FI.

Like naughtylion and everyone else having remote start issues, my remote start would crank but not start because of this so called anti hot wire feature (or whatever they call it).
When the remote start tries to crank, it turns over about two times but nothing happens, however the ignition is still on because the alarm does not know if the engine is started or not.
With the ignition still on by the alarm, if you try to start the bike like you normally would with start button. Same problem, it will crank but not start, now if you turn the key to ON (with the ignition still on from the alarm) and try to start the bike, it starts first go. So it's definitely something to do with the extra signal.

My Ninja is a 2011 model, so I'm not sure this feature was added in 2010 onwards or not?

After contacting naughtylion via PM to see if he sorted this out, to my luck he did! and my PM reminded him to update this post

A picture is worth a thousand words, I successfully got remote start to work and decided to take some happy snaps.

BIG THANKS to naughtylion to getting this worked out!

To get to the ignition plug, the tank will need to be removed.
Below is the plug your looking for.




Unplug the plug and the carefully pass the plug under the frame, this is so you have more room to work with the plug.
These are the two wires you will be working with.




You have a few options here, naughtylion suggested to cut the GREY wire, I decided not to, so I popped the plug out instead, just in case I need to put it back to standard later
I didn't take a picture, but I also popped out the BROWN wire as well.




To pop the plugs out, looking at the plug face on, you notice a little gap on the top of the connection.
Now as you can see with the removed plug, that raised piece metal is what's preventing the plug from removing.
I got a good size paper clip and inserted in the gap, what you are trying to do is bend the raise metal back down so you can remove the plug. With the paper clip inserted all the way in, I also had another small screw driver to push the plug back to remove.
Repeat this step to also remove the BROWN wire.




Now you need to get these bad boys, I got a 100ohm (0.5w) resistor, 0.45c for a pack of 8.



With my fancy Paint Shop Pro skills
You need the resistor to be connect between the BROWN and GREY wire, this last step will be left up to you, you need to work out the best way to connect the two.
For me, I popped out the BROWN wire as well, I soldered the resister to both wires and carefully connected the BROWN wire back into the plug. You MUST leave the GREY wire unplugged, the GREY wire should only be connected to the BROWN wire via the resistor.




Plug the ignition plug back in and put the fuel tank back on and connect everything up, then test by first starting your bike as per normal, making sure it works, then try the remote start, make sure it can start (if the bike is cold, suggest to put the choke on), if it starts, congratulations! now try turning the bike off with the alarm, if it turns off, start putting your bike back together.


Can you tell me how I do it!
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Old May 29th, 2017, 02:36 AM   #22
Tay
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Geez, it's been 5 years since I posted this! The pics was stored at my ISP's FTP site which I no longer have.
Lucky for you, I managed to go through all my archives/backups and found the original pics and re uploaded them.

Tell you how to do it? You should be able to do it now that the pics are back up.

=============================================================

Here in Australia, only the carbs where sold, no FI.

Like naughtylion and everyone else having remote start issues, my remote start would crank but not start because of this so called anti hot wire feature (or whatever they call it).
When the remote start tries to crank, it turns over about two times but nothing happens, however the ignition is still on because the alarm does not know if the engine is started or not.
With the ignition still on by the alarm, if you try to start the bike like you normally would with start button. Same problem, it will crank but not start, now if you turn the key to ON (with the ignition still on from the alarm) and try to start the bike, it starts first go. So it's definitely something to do with the extra signal.

My Ninja is a 2011 model, so I'm not sure this feature was added in 2010 onwards or not?

After contacting naughtylion via PM to see if he sorted this out, to my luck he did! and my PM reminded him to update this post

A picture is worth a thousand words, I successfully got remote start to work and decided to take some happy snaps.

BIG THANKS to naughtylion to getting this worked out!

To get to the ignition plug, the tank will need to be removed.
Below is the plug your looking for.




Unplug the plug and the carefully pass the plug under the frame, this is so you have more room to work with the plug.
These are the two wires you will be working with.




You have a few options here, naughtylion suggested to cut the GREY wire, I decided not to, so I popped the plug out instead, just in case I need to put it back to standard later
I didn't take a picture, but I also popped out the BROWN wire as well.




To pop the plugs out, looking at the plug face on, you notice a little gap on the top of the connection.
Now as you can see with the removed plug, that raised piece metal is what's preventing the plug from removing.
I got a good size paper clip and inserted in the gap, what you are trying to do is bend the raise metal back down so you can remove the plug. With the paper clip inserted all the way in, I also had another small screw driver to push the plug back to remove.
Repeat this step to also remove the BROWN wire.




Now you need to get these bad boys, I got a 100ohm (0.5w) resistor, 0.45c for a pack of 8.



With my fancy Paint Shop Pro skills
You need the resistor to be connect between the BROWN and GREY wire, this last step will be left up to you, you need to work out the best way to connect the two.
For me, I popped out the BROWN wire as well, I soldered the resister to both wires and carefully connected the BROWN wire back into the plug. You MUST leave the GREY wire unplugged, the GREY wire should only be connected to the BROWN wire via the resistor.




Plug the ignition plug back in and put the fuel tank back on and connect everything up, then test by first starting your bike as per normal, making sure it works, then try the remote start, make sure it can start (if the bike is cold, suggest to put the choke on), if it starts, congratulations! now try turning the bike off with the alarm, if it turns off, start putting your bike back together.
__________________________________________________
2010/11 Red Ninja 250
Mods:Carbs Shimmed|Snorkel Removed|K&N Air Filter|Kleen System Removed|Danmoto Slip On|Koso RX2 Dash|Universal Gear Indicator|Custom Rear Hugger By Chris|= FUN
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Old June 2nd, 2017, 03:24 PM   #23
AvinKuang
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thanks you help!is good!but look like so hard for me ! wires be only on fuel tanks to found ? how about ig box have or not?
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Old June 2nd, 2017, 03:26 PM   #24
AvinKuang
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Posts: 4
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tay View Post
Geez, it's been 5 years since I posted this! The pics was stored at my ISP's FTP site which I no longer have.
Lucky for you, I managed to go through all my archives/backups and found the original pics and re uploaded them.

Tell you how to do it? You should be able to do it now that the pics are back up.

=============================================================

Here in Australia, only the carbs where sold, no FI.

Like naughtylion and everyone else having remote start issues, my remote start would crank but not start because of this so called anti hot wire feature (or whatever they call it).
When the remote start tries to crank, it turns over about two times but nothing happens, however the ignition is still on because the alarm does not know if the engine is started or not.
With the ignition still on by the alarm, if you try to start the bike like you normally would with start button. Same problem, it will crank but not start, now if you turn the key to ON (with the ignition still on from the alarm) and try to start the bike, it starts first go. So it's definitely something to do with the extra signal.

My Ninja is a 2011 model, so I'm not sure this feature was added in 2010 onwards or not?

After contacting naughtylion via PM to see if he sorted this out, to my luck he did! and my PM reminded him to update this post

A picture is worth a thousand words, I successfully got remote start to work and decided to take some happy snaps.

BIG THANKS to naughtylion to getting this worked out!

To get to the ignition plug, the tank will need to be removed.
Below is the plug your looking for.




Unplug the plug and the carefully pass the plug under the frame, this is so you have more room to work with the plug.
These are the two wires you will be working with.




You have a few options here, naughtylion suggested to cut the GREY wire, I decided not to, so I popped the plug out instead, just in case I need to put it back to standard later
I didn't take a picture, but I also popped out the BROWN wire as well.




To pop the plugs out, looking at the plug face on, you notice a little gap on the top of the connection.
Now as you can see with the removed plug, that raised piece metal is what's preventing the plug from removing.
I got a good size paper clip and inserted in the gap, what you are trying to do is bend the raise metal back down so you can remove the plug. With the paper clip inserted all the way in, I also had another small screw driver to push the plug back to remove.
Repeat this step to also remove the BROWN wire.




Now you need to get these bad boys, I got a 100ohm (0.5w) resistor, 0.45c for a pack of 8.



With my fancy Paint Shop Pro skills
You need the resistor to be connect between the BROWN and GREY wire, this last step will be left up to you, you need to work out the best way to connect the two.
For me, I popped out the BROWN wire as well, I soldered the resister to both wires and carefully connected the BROWN wire back into the plug. You MUST leave the GREY wire unplugged, the GREY wire should only be connected to the BROWN wire via the resistor.




Plug the ignition plug back in and put the fuel tank back on and connect everything up, then test by first starting your bike as per normal, making sure it works, then try the remote start, make sure it can start (if the bike is cold, suggest to put the choke on), if it starts, congratulations! now try turning the bike off with the alarm, if it turns off, start putting your bike back together.
thanks you help!is good!but look like so hard for me ! wires be only on fuel tanks to found ? how about ig box have or not?
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Old June 3rd, 2017, 03:17 AM   #25
Tay
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Posts: 12
Yes this procedure is a bit of mucking around, as for an alternative? not sure, there could be an easier way you just have to look and work it out. Since I got it working, I never bothered with it anymore.
__________________________________________________
2010/11 Red Ninja 250
Mods:Carbs Shimmed|Snorkel Removed|K&N Air Filter|Kleen System Removed|Danmoto Slip On|Koso RX2 Dash|Universal Gear Indicator|Custom Rear Hugger By Chris|= FUN
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