2005 kawi ninja 250r Running issues.

[Ninjas]

Originally Posted by Triple Jim

You don't have to remove a head, just the valve cover, and use a feeler gauge with the crank at the proper position to check clearance. Read the procedure before you do more work than you need to.

I hate to say that you'll need to be a little more specific about a feeler gauge. As far as getting the crank at a proper position, are you referring to top dead center?

I've done what I have possibly could with the carbs, adjusted float heights as per the manual, rechecked main 2nd idle jets, float valves, valve seats, LH carb float valve seat did have a little debris, cleaned that out again. Attempted to start the bike for any results of what I've done, scared the hell out of my neighbor with a backfire from the exhaust. Didn't want to but seems I'll be removing the radiator to pop off the valve cover and see if I can eye it. I don't have much tools nor access to a shop as I used to. I like challenges, but this ones kicking my butt so far.

[Triple Jim]

Originally Posted by Ninjas

I hate to say that you'll need to be a little more specific about a feeler gauge. As far as getting the crank at a proper position, are you referring to top dead center?

That's why I suggested reading the procedure in the manual, or at https://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/How_do..._the_valves%3F There are a lot of steps to doing the job, and they've already been documented for us.

[Ninjas]

Thank you for the link Jim. I'll do some reading and I'll see what I can do. I am hoping everything under the cover looks good when I'm ready to remove the cover.

[Ninjas]

Jim, after reading some of the materials, (The link you provided me with, and the manual I downloaded) I have a rough idea of what I have to remove to inspect the valves. Seems I still have to disassemble the radiator a bit. I'm optimistic, but without the gauge I won't be abled to tell if the valves are within spec.

[Triple Jim]

Feeler gauge sets aren't hard to come by. Last time I did mine, I used the appropriate thickness of brass shim stock for the gauges.

[Ninjas]

Originally Posted by Triple Jim

Feeler gauge sets aren't hard to come by. Last time I did mine, I used the appropriate thickness of brass shim stock for the gauges.

Any recommendations? I wouldn't know where to start to find anything close to a feeler gauge. But I believe I can manage, with some time and advice.

[Triple Jim]

If you do a Google search for "feeler gauge price" you'll get a lot of choices.

[Ninjas]

You weren't being a d*** at all, Jim. I figured asking since you mentioned you used brass shims to check your valve clearances. I'll Google it and see what I can work with. Thank you.

[Ninjas]

I may have a cheap solution via Wal-Mart. Not my first choice, but should serve the purpose. Feeler gauge set for $5. A little late tonight, but I'll drop by and pick one up tomorrow and get to work. I'll post anything I find or lack thereof.

[Ram Jet]

Originally Posted by Ninjas

So while I'm waiting on my new sparkies, I took the old ones out and cleaned them, reinstalled after verifying a .030 gap, she sputtered during the first few seconds of starting, nothing more than that afterwards. Recharging the battery and we shall see if that helps.

You might want to tighten-up that plug gap a-little. Kawasaki calls for a .024 - .028 gap. Not a biggie but every little bit helps.

Bill

[Ninjas]

Originally Posted by Ram Jet

You might want to tighten-up that plug gap a-little. Kawasaki calls for a .024 - .028 gap. Not a biggie but every little bit helps.

Bill

Thank you, bill. I've recently capped the plugs at .025-.027, roughly. At this time, I'm investigating the valves, since the bike will backfire from the exhaust, more so often from tje carbs. I'm checking for sticking valves, or worn out parts. Without the bike running, after a failed starting attempt, I smell fuel within the exhaust. Wouldn't hurt to have a few more new spark plugs, an oil change in case. Definitely a valve clearance check. A lovely process of elimination..

[Ninjas]

Well, there's definitely no lack thereof. Here's the update. I removed the valve cover. Correct me if I'm mistaken, though I'm quite positive a mixture of fuel AND oil should not be in there. So I'm thinking, a few oil changes definitely. And likely a valve job. I'm sure only oil should be present..

[Triple Jim]

Originally Posted by Ninjas

And likely a valve job.

What makes you think you need a valve job, as opposed to adjusting their clearances?

[Ninjas]

Originally Posted by Triple Jim

What makes you think you need a valve job, as opposed to adjusting their clearances?

I figure while I'm in there it will be safer to replace the used valves. But I'm not ruling out a simple valve adjustment will fix the problem.

But I do see that I will have to flush out the fuel in the oil, clean it out. But it does seem to be valve related up to this point. My original checks are looking okay; petcock, carbs, airbox, spark plugs. Only that I personally can think of is the valves themselves.

What would your thoughts be?

[Triple Jim]

After you check and possibly adjust your valve clearances, you can tell if the valves need attention with a compression or leakdown test. New valves are normally needed only in extreme cases of valve. If the valves need attention, an automotive machine shop can grind them and the seats if needed.

But you're getting way ahead of yourself. From what I remember of the thread, you don't even know if the carbs are completely clean yet, and your symptoms could be caused by clogged pilot circuits. One step at a time!

[Z1R rider]

Originally Posted by Ninjas

I figure while I'm in there it will be safer to replace the used valves. But I'm not ruling out a simple valve adjustment will fix the problem.

Definitely do the valve adjust first and if you still think it's valve related, do a compression test. If that shows low cranking pressure do a leak down test (or put compressed air into the cylinder through the sparkplug hole) to find where the pressure is going. If the valves are leaking (or held open) you can hear or feel the air coming out of the exhaust pipe or the carbs or if the piston or rings are bad, out the oil fill hole.

PS: you have to pull the head off to do a valve job, not just the valve cover. Quite a bit more work.

[Ninjas]

Jim, z1,

Thank you both for your responses. The carbs are fine, at least seemingly. With the diaphragms and plastics removed, I used carb cleaner and the attached straw to check the passages. Pretty much checked out.

I'll have to clean out the fuel and oil from under the valve cover before I can begin to check and adjust the valves themselves if adjustment is needed. I have the proper gauging tool, that part shouldn't be a problem.

Okay. So I will check the clearances. If those check out, then I'll have to move backwards.

[Triple Jim]

You previously posted "I was only abled to clean what I was abled to get to. I didn't disassemble the carb completely as Gordon had helpfully shown in the photo."

and that the carbs "Pretty much checked out."

If I were having your problems, I would take things one step at a time, and be absolutely sure the carbs are clean and correctly assembled. Not disassembling them to check and clean everything means the job isn't done yet.

[Ninjas]

Okay. Fuel in the oil, which tells me the carbs are still flowing fuel excessively or not properly shutting off. Valve clearances are a bit tight. My primary problem goes back to the carbs. When I can afford Gordon's services, I'll have to give him a heads up.

[Triple Jim]

Also, to get fuel into the oil, not only does at least one carb have to have a leaking float valve, but the vacuum petcock has to be leaking.

[Ninjas]

Originally Posted by Triple Jim

Also, to get fuel into the oil, not only does at least one carb have to have a leaking float valve, but the vacuum petcock has to be leaking.

I've discovered the LH carb is the problematic one. As far as the petcock, I've tested it by connecting a hose to the vacuum port, sucked, it flowed, stopped, it stopped. Both reserve and run positions, oddly i havent yet checked to see if fuel ran through in the off position. I'll have to check. At the worst, petcocks shouldn't cost much i dont think.

[Ninjas]

The bike is running, required needles and needle jet replacements. Drained and flushed the tank, replaced oil filter and flushed the old oil/gas that occurred.

Now all that that is done, only thing left to do is ride.
I appreciate you guys. And thank you for the advice and tips
.