April 28th, 2010, 08:36 AM | #1 |
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Name: eddie
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Dino vs synth
I have an FZ6 with 26k that runs as new...always on dino oil.
Yet, have read so much on synth, pro and con, that ...well...seeing that I spend my time on the 250 now....the FZ sits for a week without as much as a start....it's used not much...maybe 200 miles a week tops....opinions? Leave it on petro or use synth ? |
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April 28th, 2010, 08:48 AM | #2 |
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Name: Jeff
Location: Kent, WA
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Just my opinion, but after reading as much as I could find on this subject, and switching to synth myself, AFTER A PROPER BREAK IN PERIOD has been done with Petroleum based oil, Synthetic oils have Superior lubricity properties and can prolong the life of your engine. Plain and simple. My 2 cents anyway....
Last futzed with by cnichols79us; April 28th, 2010 at 08:49 AM. Reason: Can't Type.... |
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April 28th, 2010, 08:53 AM | #3 |
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Name: Lee
Location: Naugatuck, CT
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+1 on Synth.
Always used Amsoil on a raced/Daily Driver mustang. 3 Mpg increase going to Synth on the stang. Put 118k miles on the stang before the valve train started having issues. Edit: Almost forgot. On the Stang I was changing the amsoil FILTER every 12.5k miles and Oil and Filter at 25k miles. YMMV
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April 28th, 2010, 09:13 AM | #4 |
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Name: Craig
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Synthetic oil provides better lubrication than Dino but is it worth the extra money? The answer really depends on the engine and how it is used.
250 Ninjas have known oiling problems which can starve the engine of oil during heavy braking. The engines also commonly spin around 10,000 during freeway riding. I've seen many 250 engines fail because of poor oiling. On the other end of the spectrum my Hayabusa has a great oiling system. I can ride the bike all day and never exceed 3500 RPM. I've never seen an unmodified 'Busa engine fail. I would highly recommend running synthetic oil in a 250 Ninja. On a less stressed engine like the 'Busa the choice is yours. Dino should do just fine.
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April 28th, 2010, 09:49 AM | #5 |
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+1 for Synthetic. The bike only uses two quarts so it's not much of an investment but well worth the extra protection you get.
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April 28th, 2010, 10:22 AM | #6 |
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Pay the Syn tax. It is worth it in the long run.
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April 28th, 2010, 11:38 AM | #7 |
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Name: Yancy
Location: Redmond
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Well, your asking about the FZ, not the 250. I'd say leave it on dino.
Most places I've read say you need to switch to Synth within a certain amount of millage. This has to do with the clutch plates first wearing in, and then not wearing too much before or after switching. More important then synth or dino is how often you change it. Edit: I'm also assuming it's a wet clutch. For dry clutches, I'd change to synth as soon as I got the bike. |
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April 28th, 2010, 12:49 PM | #8 |
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Name: Matt
Location: South East Florida/Rutgers University
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Yancy, any reason your suggesting using Dino for the FZ
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April 28th, 2010, 01:01 PM | #9 |
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Name: Yancy
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The number of miles on the bike and how little he rides.
There is a window where it's suggested that if you haven't switched over to synth yet, then you should stay away. It's different for different vehicles. I always switch, so I've not done much research into it. He doesn't ride the FZ much... So, not much stress on the oil... Again, more important then oil type is oil frequency. Don't forget to change your oil! |
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April 28th, 2010, 01:05 PM | #10 |
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Name: Matt
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Since he doesnt ride as much, wouldn't syn. be better since it doesnt break down as quickly as does conventional oil?
Never heard of the window that your allowed to switch, I'll have to look into that.
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April 28th, 2010, 01:16 PM | #11 | |
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Name: Yancy
Location: Redmond
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Quote:
Switching too early can affect the clutch plates if it's a wet clutch. I think the quality of the oil would matter more if it was ridden all the time rather then just occasionally. But that would only apply if your changing oil at regular intervals either way. |
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April 28th, 2010, 01:29 PM | #12 |
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Name: rock
Location: greenville, south carolina
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You can switch to syn anytime... there are no windows. You can switch back to dino anytime, there are no windows. You can dump your dino oil out at mile 1 and go synthetic, there's no need to break in with dino oil first (I do it w/ dino oil because I drain my oil often for the first couple thousand miles and dino oil is cheaper). Syn oil is NOT more slippery than dino oil. Switching to syn after running dino oil for a loooooong time does NOT cause oil leaks.
Most of the things that people think and "know" about synthetic oil is hogwash. The guy who owns a nearby greek/italian Restaurant made me a killer pizza today,may be the best I have every had. mmmmmmmmmm!
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April 28th, 2010, 01:41 PM | #13 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Yancy
Location: Redmond
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You may be completely correct on the switch to synth.
However, I still stand by recommending dino for a bike that sits most of the time. What's the oil doing for a bike that's just sitting? It's main job at that point would probably be mostly to absorb condensation. A bike used all the time would have to deal more with temperature changes, dirt, and mechanical friction as well as condensation. Supposedly synth handles all that better. That's why I run synth. Now, after rereading the OP, Synth may still be the way to go. 200 miles a week? That could still be a long day ride. Or lots of small rides, which tend to be harder on engines. Honestly, no two people will agree on everything that has to do with oil. Do your own research and make up your own mind. It's the only way you'll get a 100% satisfactory answer. |
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April 28th, 2010, 03:29 PM | #14 | |
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Quote:
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April 28th, 2010, 03:31 PM | #15 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Lee
Location: Naugatuck, CT
Join Date: Mar 2010 Motorcycle(s): 08 Kawasaki Ninja 250R Blue Posts: 150
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Olive oil?
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April 28th, 2010, 07:56 PM | #16 |
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Name: Samer
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No doubt about it. Synthetic is better. If you want the best for your engine, go with Synthetic. Anything you hear or read about Synthetic oil that makes you second guess that fact is a complete myth.
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April 28th, 2010, 08:04 PM | #17 |
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Name: James
Location: Toronto
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If this is for the FZ...and the FZ sits a lot...i'd recommend sticking with a high quality, full synth oil. Back in my rx-7 days i used to do all kinds of research on oil, base stocks, etc. The higher end, "true" full synthetic oils (ie: amsoil, motul, etc) are comprised almost entirely of group 4 base stock oils....which are artifically made. This is opposed to regular dino oils, which are, at most, group 3 base stock oils, which are derived from natural crude oil. Now the group 3 oils, being a more naturally derived oil, will break down faster with heat, wear etc. This is something we all know. However, on top of that is the fact that they break down faster over time as well. Dino oils, once they get used in an engine, will begin to break down and become acidic faster than a full synth, even if left to sit. I do believe this is where the recommended "change your oil every 3000 miles or every 3-4 months" thing came from. A full synth, being comprised almost entirely of man-made artificial oils and compounds, doesn't have such a shelf-life....in terms of time anyway. They'll resist wear and acidity better overall, but it's still a good idea to change it out regularly with normal operation.
Now, the info above was researched and "discovered" by myself about 5-6 years ago....so I'm not sure how accurate this is still. Take it with a grain of salt |
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April 28th, 2010, 08:43 PM | #18 |
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Name: A
Location: Long Island, NY
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Im changing the oil on the cbr this weekend.. I plan on using Rotella T dino 15W40.. I don't let oil changes go long in my bikes or my cars... if I was going to synthetic Id stick with Rotella .. the 5W40 though.. Advanced in Valley Stream has it.. .. not sure about your FZ6
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