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Old March 4th, 2017, 05:14 PM   #7721
Bob2010
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Think I might sell it..... the 2010 at least ... not sure

3,200 miles I think? Still change the oil Castrol racing with kn filter every spring tho!
Call it a waste , I say $40 investment






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Old March 4th, 2017, 11:43 PM   #7722
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Some routine maintenance and then we went riding.
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Old March 6th, 2017, 11:40 AM   #7723
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I installed a newgen rear shock assembly and new Sonic front springs in my 2005. Then I took off the starter and oiled the shaft bushing that was squawking (non-roller-bearing end). It seems to need oil about once a year. I'm looking forward to a test ride this afternoon.

Next is the hydraulic clutch actuator.
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Old March 6th, 2017, 05:54 PM   #7724
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Built (almost done) workbench for garage so I can rebuild brake caliper in a civilized manner. Mounting up race bodywork next.
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Old March 12th, 2017, 03:51 PM   #7725
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Installed a projector headlight kit (K&T, not BK Moto) with demon eyes, as well as smoked LED Turn Signals and a new relay. Absolutely love the look of it! <3

EDIT for next day: Installed a black double bubble windscreen, but the weather is too crappy to test it out. Q_Q

Last futzed with by DanteCoal; March 13th, 2017 at 05:16 PM.
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Old March 19th, 2017, 09:09 PM   #7726
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Ho hum, just an oil & filter change. I love the K&N filters, they come with both O-rings!
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Old April 4th, 2017, 03:39 PM   #7727
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She got new grips today and some spiegler brake lines with new brake pads this past Sunday.
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Old April 5th, 2017, 04:47 AM   #7728
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Cut off kickstand bracket. Race body install in progress.
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Old April 5th, 2017, 07:26 AM   #7729
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Triple Jim View Post
I installed a newgen rear shock assembly and new Sonic front springs in my 2005.
I did the same thing this weekend to my 2004 Race Bike and just finished pulling and setting the preload on the shock last night. Feels so much better just sitting on it in the garage. I can't wait to get on it out on the track!
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Old April 5th, 2017, 04:19 PM   #7730
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Took it out and rode it. Surprisingly it didn't feel slow at all. You gotta keep the revs above 8k, but it really moves out for a 250cc bike. I can tell by all the looks of hate when I'm riding through a neighborhood, that people hate the loudness when it's going by reving so high, but it's an awesomely nimble little machine, and is pretty balls out at WOT. I keep wanting to sell it, but then I go out and ride it again...It was my first bike, so I think I'm gonna keep it.
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Old April 5th, 2017, 07:02 PM   #7731
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I haven't quite done it yet, but I just got some cheap pregen ninja forks (straight and not leaking surprisingly) to practice doing my fork seals on before I attempt it on my 09. Maybe if I don't ruin them someone in Kansas could find a use for them afterwards.
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Old April 5th, 2017, 10:20 PM   #7732
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Mounted idiot lights in the back of a cheap Chinese headlight housing. Still need to clean it up a bit.
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Old April 7th, 2017, 07:56 AM   #7733
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bk834 View Post
I can tell by all the looks of hate when I'm riding through a neighborhood, that people hate the loudness when it's going by reving so high...
When riding though a neighborhood I'm usually in the 3,000-4,000 rpm range, and with my stock exhaust system and airbox, I doubt if many people even notice me passing. I kinda like non riders not expressing hate at motorcycles.
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Old April 7th, 2017, 06:43 PM   #7734
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Triple Jim View Post
When riding though a neighborhood I'm usually in the 3,000-4,000 rpm range, and with my stock exhaust system and airbox, I doubt if many people even notice me passing. I kinda like non riders not expressing hate at motorcycles.
I have stock exhaust and mufflers on the bike, a lot of the sound comes back through the the carb and K&N Filter. It's crazy how much louder the bike gets when you delete the air box, jet the carb, and install a Pod Air Filter. It's really nothing over the top obnoxious though, people just hate anything loud now days.
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Old April 12th, 2017, 02:00 PM   #7735
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And cleaned the chain

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Old April 17th, 2017, 08:15 AM   #7736
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oil change

T6
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Old April 21st, 2017, 10:35 AM   #7737
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Put a bolt under the seat so I can lock my helmet to the bike without it melting on the exhaust.
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Old April 21st, 2017, 05:30 PM   #7738
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In the middle of a valve adjustment. Just did all the math, trying to locate the right shims tomorrow and start putting her back together.

After 12k miles and zero previous checking/adjusting all the intake valves are middle of the spec. The exhaust valves are wayyyyy tight.
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Old April 21st, 2017, 06:43 PM   #7739
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Quote:
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Put a bolt under the seat so I can lock my helmet to the bike without it melting on the exhaust.
aaaand it rattled off. gonna get a nut and do that again. <.<
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Old May 25th, 2017, 11:00 AM   #7740
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Not exactly today, but SHE'S ALIVE!!!!! After nearly two years dead, my baby Ninja has been brought back to life! Never mind the dirt and the lack of fairings, the dirt has been cleaned and the fairings are at the painter getting a makeover. She's going to be my track only bike.


Link to original page on YouTube.

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Old May 30th, 2017, 01:27 PM   #7741
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Installed Pro Bolts

STAINLESS STEEL FAIRING KIT KAWASAKI NINJA 250R

STAINLESS STEEL SCREEN KIT 4 BOLTS

STAINLESS STEEL FRONT BRAKE CALIPER MOUNTING BOLT KIT RACE SPEC

STAINLESS STEEL REAR BRAKE CALIPER MOUNT BOLT SET

STAINLESS STEEL RIDER FOOTREST HANGER BOLT SET x 2

STAINLESS STEEL DISC BOLT KAWASAKI PACK

Replaced Front Caliper w/pads

Replaced Rear Caliper w/pads

Used Meguires Ultimate black on all black plastic - Looks amazing compared to faded black plastic.

Just got tired of looking at all the rusty and old corroded bolts on the bike.
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Old May 30th, 2017, 02:43 PM   #7742
Topaz
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I did a quick oil change today. First time I changed the oil on the 'new for me' Ninjita.

I used Kawasaki performance Full Synthetic SAE 10w-40. It took 2.5 quarters changing the filter as well.
I only do about 3000 miles a year, so I change my oil yearly.

Good thing is that I didn't have to take out any fairings.
The filter wasn't over tightened, so it easily came out by hand. New filter came in by hand as well. No leaks.

The oil plug is very accessible without removing any fairing, and the oil pours out nicely into the pan. In my previous bike, even taking out some fairings, I had to put some aluminum foil to prevent the oil from pouring on the header pipes.
The crush washer looked like new, so I reused it. No leaks there either.

So, all in all, I was done in about 20 mins.
I expected to feel a difference in the gear shifting, to be smoother, but no change. So I guess the old oil was still good. It had 3000 miles.


Only thing to mention is the common issue about the ebay sellers offering the filter <16097-0004 Made in Japan>, and then sending a filter <16097-0008 Made in China>.
I bought the "Ninja 300 Full Synthetic Oil Change Kit" from seller 'fullthrottlemotorsportsiowa' for $52
The description of the item didn't specify what filter was included, but the picture clearly showed the filter 0004 Made in Japan.
I asked the seller about this, and he said. "Yes, it's the superseeded part. Sorry.".
I sent him a second email but there was no response, so I ended up leaving him neutral feedback.
if you want the filter made in japan, be sure to ask before buying. And avoid this seller, as for what I see, he didn't change the picture or the description after my inquire.
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Old May 30th, 2017, 02:59 PM   #7743
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Topaz View Post
I did a quick oil change today. First time I changed the oil on the 'new for me' Ninjita.

I used Kawasaki performance Full Synthetic SAE 10w-40. It took 2.5 quarters changing the filter as well.
I only do about 3000 miles a year, so I change my oil yearly.
(SNIP)
I bought the "Ninja 300 Full Synthetic Oil Change Kit" from seller 'fullthrottlemotorsportsiowa' for $52(SNIP)
Another good option is a WIX filter from NAPA ($12) and a gallon of Shell Rotella T6 synthetic ($25 or less).
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Old June 12th, 2017, 10:36 AM   #7744
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VaFish View Post
You will be amazed how fast they grow up.

My 2 youngest kids ride with me now and another one is taking his BRC next month so soon I will have 3 of my 4 kids riding with me.
hes growing up so fast!!



He will be 3 in November, and is already taking stuff apart and putting them back together (not the chicken! ha ha).

https://youtu.be/P7hf4ILSloQ
(thats a broken welder that i dont use anymore, and let him play with, he he)
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Old June 13th, 2017, 09:09 PM   #7745
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Pulled the trigger on a new chain tool, it my Father's Day present to myself.

D.I.D KM500R Chain Cut and Rivet Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0040PM2EI..._tAlqzb1GQ131H
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Old June 14th, 2017, 03:57 AM   #7746
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Broke a valve spring
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Old June 14th, 2017, 05:48 AM   #7747
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Put a New Hole In Her Bottom

The previous owner, an orangutan I think, stripped-out the oil drain plug threads in my crankcase. Oh me, oh my - Helicoil? A British poster here, Chris (Mowhawk), suggested a new-gen oil sump screen cover which has the drain plug located in it. It's a direct bolt-on swap. Thank you again Chris. So, after cleaning priming and painting my eBay part, and installing my new magnetic drain plug, I installed it. Then I bead blasted the old drain plug to rough it up for epoxy, put a coat of JB Weld on the drain plug threads and what was left of the threads in the crankcase. and screwed the old drain plug in for the last time. It was a-bit tedious making sure all the engine oil was removed from the crankcase threads. I used a modified toothbrush and lacquer thinner to get it as clean as possible. Then I thought, sure as spit, that someday someone might put a wrench to the old drain plug making for a very bad day. So I found a plastic bottle with a slightly larger diameter than the head of the drain plug, cut off a portion of the bottom of the bottle slightly taller than the height of the drain plug hex, filled it about 1/2 full of epoxy and glued it over the top of the drain plug. Ta da, no more hex head to put a wrench on. Short ride, no leaks, life is good again. Making a silk purse out of a sows ear - I now have about 4 tablespoons of additional oil sump capacity and a mini oil cooler cause the new cover has significant cooling fins cast in it. On the down side I lost about 2 1/2" of ground clearance.

I think I'm done fixing the previous owner's muck-ups.

Cheers,

Bill
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Old June 14th, 2017, 05:54 AM   #7748
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Oil filter

Quote:
Originally Posted by Topaz View Post
I did a quick oil change today. First time I changed the oil on the 'new for me' Ninjita.

I used Kawasaki performance Full Synthetic SAE 10w-40. It took 2.5 quarters changing the filter as well.
I only do about 3000 miles a year, so I change my oil yearly.

Good thing is that I didn't have to take out any fairings.
The filter wasn't over tightened, so it easily came out by hand. New filter came in by hand as well. No leaks.

The oil plug is very accessible without removing any fairing, and the oil pours out nicely into the pan. In my previous bike, even taking out some fairings, I had to put some aluminum foil to prevent the oil from pouring on the header pipes.
The crush washer looked like new, so I reused it. No leaks there either.

So, all in all, I was done in about 20 mins.
I expected to feel a difference in the gear shifting, to be smoother, but no change. So I guess the old oil was still good. It had 3000 miles.


Only thing to mention is the common issue about the ebay sellers offering the filter <16097-0004 Made in Japan>, and then sending a filter <16097-0008 Made in China>.
I bought the "Ninja 300 Full Synthetic Oil Change Kit" from seller 'fullthrottlemotorsportsiowa' for $52
The description of the item didn't specify what filter was included, but the picture clearly showed the filter 0004 Made in Japan.
I asked the seller about this, and he said. "Yes, it's the superseeded part. Sorry.".
I sent him a second email but there was no response, so I ended up leaving him neutral feedback.
if you want the filter made in japan, be sure to ask before buying. And avoid this seller, as for what I see, he didn't change the picture or the description after my inquire.
I'm using genuine Kawasaki oil filters right now but I might try a Fram in the future. You get no "O" rings with the Kaw filter and I hear you do with the Fram.

Bill
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Old June 14th, 2017, 05:58 AM   #7749
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^^ Yes, my filters didn't come with any oRing, neither the old nor the new one. But it looks like it doesn't need it. No leaks before or after the filter replacement.
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Old June 14th, 2017, 06:01 AM   #7750
Ram Jet
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Engine Oil

Quote:
Originally Posted by jkv45 View Post
Another good option is a WIX filter from NAPA ($12) and a gallon of Shell Rotella T6 synthetic ($25 or less).
Rotella oil seems pretty popular here. Isn't it oil for heavy duty use in diesel engines? I'm using Mobil Racing 4T 10w-40 synthetic motorcycle oil. I use anything Mobil makes. Mobil claims it's also wet clutch friendly.

Just F.Y.I.

Bill
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Old June 14th, 2017, 06:09 AM   #7751
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ghostt View Post
Pulled the trigger on a new chain tool, it my Father's Day present to myself.

D.I.D KM500R Chain Cut and Rivet Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0040PM2EI..._tAlqzb1GQ131H

Looks good. I'd get one when it's time to change the chain. Tell us how it worked when you use it.
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Old June 14th, 2017, 06:09 AM   #7752
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ram Jet View Post
Rotella oil seems pretty popular here. Isn't it oil for heavy duty use in diesel engines? I'm using Mobil Racing 4T 10w-40 synthetic motorcycle oil. I use anything Mobil makes. Mobil claims it's also wet clutch friendly.

Just F.Y.I.

Bill
It is.

Rotella (and other diesel oils) have the higher level of additives (Zinc and Phosphorus - ZDDP) that have been removed from current auto oils. It's a lower level (Group III) synthetic and doesn't contain additives that may cause clutch issues. It's good quality and readily available for a reasonable price. T6 has been certified JASO-MA for use with wet clutches.

The Mobil1 4T oil you are using is a step up, and is designed for cycle use. All "cycle-specific" oils are designed to be used with wet clutches. A good choice, though a bit more expensive.
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Old June 14th, 2017, 06:20 AM   #7753
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Triple Jim View Post
When riding though a neighborhood I'm usually in the 3,000-4,000 rpm range, and with my stock exhaust system and airbox, I doubt if many people even notice me passing. I kinda like non riders not expressing hate at motorcycles.
I was sitting on a friend's porch one summer day shooting the breeze and a pack of non-muffled Hardley Davidsons roared by. They were so loud we had to stop talking until they passed. Apparently the cops in Michigan don't care. Now both of my bikes have non-baffled glass packs on them. That little 250 sounds like a 750 a idle. I like it, my neighbors don't. Hell, I used to be woken-up at 5:30 every morning to the song of an unmuffled Yamaha 1000. We just don't care here in Michigan. Don't like my face look at my ass (I'm told there's no difference).

Bill
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Old June 14th, 2017, 06:33 AM   #7754
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Old June 14th, 2017, 07:04 AM   #7755
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Mufflers

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No, but if they piss on my bacon and eggs I'm removing my Yoshimuras completely.

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Old June 17th, 2017, 02:41 PM   #7756
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Topaz View Post

Looks good. I'd get one when it's time to change the chain. Tell us how it worked when you use it.
Well I must say it was a breeze with the DID tool, this is a well built tool, heavy duty to say the least, and well made.

I tried one of those cheap POS, and it broke LoL. So as always spend the right the first time, I knew this beforehand, but thought I would try the cheaper one, just in case, well case was it's a waste of money and time. Good thing I got it from Amazon, so return and refund was easy and quick.

Here is the cheaper one I tried and destroyed
8milelake Motorcycle Cam Drive Chain Breaker Riveter Rivet Riveting Cutter Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012CCQFDE..._.eArzbB3M3M1V

So I give the DID unit the Ghostt seal of approval, and as always spend the money right the first time, and buy quality tools.
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Old June 17th, 2017, 03:57 PM   #7757
Ram Jet
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Well I must say it was a breeze with the DID tool, this is a well built tool, heavy duty to say the least, and well made.

I tried one of those cheap POS, and it broke LoL. So as always spend the right the first time, I knew this beforehand, but thought I would try the cheaper one, just in case, well case was it's a waste of money and time. Good thing I got it from Amazon, so return and refund was easy and quick.

Here is the cheaper one I tried and destroyed
8milelake Motorcycle Cam Drive Chain Breaker Riveter Rivet Riveting Cutter Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012CCQFDE..._.eArzbB3M3M1V

So I give the DID unit the Ghostt seal of approval, and as always spend the money right the first time, and buy quality tools.
May I ask where you bought the DID tool. I assume that the DID tool allows you to remove your old chain without removing the swing arm. Then you install a new chain with a master link?

I have 10k on my present chain and it looks like it's going to last at least another 10k miles. I just want to be prepared.

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Old June 17th, 2017, 04:58 PM   #7758
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I got mine from on Amazon
D.I.D KM500R Chain Cut and Rivet Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0040PM2EI..._OhCrzbJ4NQM8V


Here's a video that someone else made, but you get the point it's actually pretty good one as it shows use of the tool.

Link to original page on YouTube.

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Old June 17th, 2017, 05:21 PM   #7759
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Of course if you plan to use a master link on the new chain, a grinder with a cutoff wheel will remove the old chain very cheaply.
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Old June 17th, 2017, 05:56 PM   #7760
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Of course if you plan to use a master link on the new chain, a grinder with a cutoff wheel will remove the old chain very cheaply.
This is also true, and what I've used plenty of times in the past, but I decided to go back to a rivet style master link, after my clip on failed. I've never had an issue with clip-ons til now, so good bye clip, and back to rivet.

This tool makes it so easy, the only downside is the cost, but once again buy quality tools and you won't be sorry you did.

In my case I hope I don't misplace the tool, getting old has its disadvantages LoL.
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