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Old April 5th, 2013, 02:17 PM   #81
Red250R
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quick question tho, the fuel pump that's included is different than the one in the picture. it only has two outlets. One on the top and one on the bottom along with the + and - plug connection. Is it the correct pump? Shouldn't it have the inlet, outlet, and bubbler?

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Old April 5th, 2013, 05:03 PM   #82
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quick question tho, the fuel pump that's included is different than the one in the picture. it only has two outlets. One on the top and one on the bottom along with the + and - plug connection. Is it the correct pump? Shouldn't it have the inlet, outlet, and bubbler?
Yep, that's totally different. This one might not use a bubbler line. Looks like the outlet?? is much bigger than the inlet???
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Old April 5th, 2013, 05:34 PM   #83
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Yeah Im not sure. I was waiting for a response from ecotrons on here to see what the difference is. I haven't emailed then yet about it. Gotta wait till I get home later
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Old April 5th, 2013, 06:45 PM   #84
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Yeah Im not sure. I was waiting for a response from ecotrons on here to see what the difference is. I haven't emailed then yet about it. Gotta wait till I get home later
the lack of a bubbler line will certainly simplify the installation.
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Old April 6th, 2013, 06:58 AM   #85
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the lack of a bubbler line will certainly simplify the installation.
You mean that you don't NEED the bubbler line?
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Old April 6th, 2013, 07:51 AM   #86
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You mean that you don't NEED the bubbler line?
In a dead end fuel rail design you do, but in the current pass through design, the bubbles just go out the output port with the gas and pass through the fuel rail to the opposite side and back to the tank.

What are the port sizes on the new fuel pump? One looks a lot bigger than the other.
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Old April 6th, 2013, 08:19 AM   #87
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I don't have a caliper like you have, but the black inlet near the power connections looks the same size as you had. The 6mm. But the other side looks 2-3 times bigger. I'd say 1/2" or something
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Old April 6th, 2013, 08:33 AM   #88
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well the kit does keep getting better. So not surprised they upgraded the pump and connections. Looks awesome. Wish I had that pump :P. Wonder what else they updated. Excited for the new guys in the group buy, looks like the install will be even easier.
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Old April 6th, 2013, 08:36 AM   #89
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well the kit does keep getting better. So not surprised they upgraded the pump and connections. Looks awesome. Wish I had that pump :P. Wonder what else they updated. Excited for the new guys in the group buy, looks like the install will be even easier.
having barbs is a big plus, but I hope that the power consumption is the same or less.
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Old April 6th, 2013, 08:39 AM   #90
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having barbs is a big plus, but I hope that the power consumption is the same or less.
Just looking at it, it could be a lot more efficient power wise since it doesnt have to deal with the bubble line. They even took off the other side port that some people had leak. Good upgrade
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Old April 9th, 2013, 12:36 PM   #91
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It comes with a two inch long piece of fuel hose with barbed end to connect the fuel rail on the outlet of the pump. I think I said that right. I know for sure that it's an adapter. Wish I had a camera. I still kind of wondering about the bubble line.
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Old April 9th, 2013, 02:01 PM   #92
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New fuel pump connection: see below pictures.

The new fuel pump combines the inlet and bubble port together, the bubble is supposed to be pushed back to inlet, and hopefully float back to the fuel filter.
This is why the inlet is much bigger than the outlet. This simplifies the structure of the pump, and hopefully more reliable mechanically.

To make sure about this, the fuel pump is better to be positioned so that the outlet is a little lower than the inlet. it can be even vertical positioned as the outlet at the bottom.

In case you have other questions, I will try to answer as quickly as I can.
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File Type: jpg SL-fuel-pump.jpg (141.1 KB, 7 views)
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Old April 11th, 2013, 07:02 AM   #93
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@ecotrons @n4mwd @choneofakind @drphils87 @EMSRacer07

Just to ask, i want to get an answer to see if i have this correct. Tagged a few of you to make sure you see it and maybe get a common answer/agreement between you all. It goes:

1. Tank -> Filter (possibly close to the tank as you suggested @n4mwd?) -> Pump -> Then it Y's off to the 1. Regulator -> Tank Return / 2. The other side of the Y goes to the Fuel Rail. Does that mean i should just plug/put the test port in the other side of the fuel rail?

2. Or instead of using the Y, go directly into the fuel rail after the Pump and use the other side of the rail as @n4mwd did in his video and send that to the regulator and THEN back to the tank?

If i have the whole flow of it in my head correctly, then my 2nd train of thought should work since the bubbles shouldn't go past the pump into the fuel rail. As long as i keep the inlet side higher than the outlet along with a constant upwards slant to the tank before the pump. The slant shouldn't matter after the pump. So in theory that way should work correct?

Since there's no bubbler outlet, it simplifies/eliminates routing of hoses. It actually makes it a lot easier in comparison to looks even when you see @n4mwd 's final product to what i believe i can see in my head. So any responses would be wonderful lol i knew i'd have a bunch of questions even with all the research i did beforehand. Thanks guys.
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Old April 11th, 2013, 08:21 AM   #94
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Originally Posted by Red250R View Post
1. Tank -> Filter (possibly close to the tank as you suggested @n4mwd?) -> Pump -> Then it Y's off to the 1. Regulator -> Tank Return / 2. The other side of the Y goes to the Fuel Rail. Does that mean i should just plug/put the test port in the other side of the fuel rail?

2. Or instead of using the Y, go directly into the fuel rail after the Pump and use the other side of the rail as @n4mwd did in his video and send that to the regulator and THEN back to the tank?

If i have the whole flow of it in my head correctly, then my 2nd train of thought should work since the bubbles shouldn't go past the pump into the fuel rail. As long as i keep the inlet side higher than the outlet along with a constant upwards slant to the tank before the pump. The slant shouldn't matter after the pump. So in theory that way should work correct?

Since there's no bubbler outlet, it simplifies/eliminates routing of hoses. It actually makes it a lot easier in comparison to looks even when you see @n4mwd 's final product to what i believe i can see in my head. So any responses would be wonderful lol i knew i'd have a bunch of questions even with all the research i did beforehand. Thanks guys.
I don't recommend using the Y before the fuel rail with this kit. This creates a dead end fuel rail. In short, if any bubbles get in there, they will stay in there until the injectors bleed them off. This can mean poor performance or even a no-start condition. OEM bikes can get away with dead end fuel systems because their pumps are above the fuel rail and inside the tanks. Bubbles can flow up and out of the fuel rail and back to the tank.

With a pass through fuel rail (like in the video), bubbles in the fuel rail are forcefully blown back into the tank. They cannot accumulate in the fuel rail.

The fuel pump needs to be tilted so the outlet is lower than the inlet and also the outlet needs to be on the left side of the bike. This way when you put the kickstand down, you aren't tilting it back the other way. The large inlet tube should not be zip-tied to the new fuel pump - it needs to slant the other way.

Whether the new fuel pump design is better than the old one remains to be proven. The old one had more plumbing required, but it was simpler in terms of proper routing.

I think if I had one of the new pumps I would use the large tubing all the way to the filter and then reduce it at the last minute.

Also, in the video I used a smaller filter because the pump inlet was smaller. With the new pump, I would just use the filter in the kit which is 5/16" I think.
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Old April 11th, 2013, 08:33 AM   #95
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@ecotrons @n4mwd @choneofakind @drphils87 @EMSRacer07

Just to ask, i want to get an answer to see if i have this correct. Tagged a few of you to make sure you see it and maybe get a common answer/agreement between you all. It goes:

1. Tank -> Filter (possibly close to the tank as you suggested @n4mwd?) -> Pump -> Then it Y's off to the 1. Regulator -> Tank Return / 2. The other side of the Y goes to the Fuel Rail. Does that mean i should just plug/put the test port in the other side of the fuel rail?

2. Or instead of using the Y, go directly into the fuel rail after the Pump and use the other side of the rail as @n4mwd did in his video and send that to the regulator and THEN back to the tank?

If i have the whole flow of it in my head correctly, then my 2nd train of thought should work since the bubbles shouldn't go past the pump into the fuel rail. As long as i keep the inlet side higher than the outlet along with a constant upwards slant to the tank before the pump. The slant shouldn't matter after the pump. So in theory that way should work correct?

Since there's no bubbler outlet, it simplifies/eliminates routing of hoses. It actually makes it a lot easier in comparison to looks even when you see @n4mwd 's final product to what i believe i can see in my head. So any responses would be wonderful lol i knew i'd have a bunch of questions even with all the research i did beforehand. Thanks guys.
Hey do you have a pic of the fuel rails? Wonder if he changed them. If he set them up differently then the Y before the fuel rail would be needed but if its like the ones we have the Y isnt needed and the pressure regulator would be on the other side of the fuel rail like the rest of us.

Post pics of the rail and all the components so we can get a bigger picture of what was changed.
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Old April 11th, 2013, 12:51 PM   #96
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The fuel rail hasn't changed. The only thing that differs from the previous kit is the fuel pump. If you still want me to post pictures tho I can
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Old April 11th, 2013, 02:38 PM   #97
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The fuel rail hasn't changed. The only thing that differs from the previous kit is the fuel pump. If you still want me to post pictures tho I can
If its the same you should still be able to set it up the same.

Tank>filter> pump>fuel rail> pressure regulator> back to tank

Hmm wonder why he posted that pic, could of been a general pic for another bike. Ecotrons does do universal kits and kits for other bikes so u can probably disregard that pic but I would ask Matt would he would suggest.
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Old April 11th, 2013, 04:55 PM   #98
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Alright so it's basically the same install as @n4mwd, just less hoses since there's no bubbler. Alright I think I got this then.
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Old April 12th, 2013, 10:47 AM   #99
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sorry for the confusion, the previous picture is for the universal efi kit for scooter engines.

Here is the picture for Ninja 250 kit:
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Old April 13th, 2013, 11:41 PM   #100
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Work and school busy busy busy. So this sounds so simple to install. I don't have a choice anyway but I think I'm going to wait until your bike @Red250R is running until I even start mine. Well I've already made the brackets and pump holder so yeah I've started but yeah like I said this is my only vehicle. That and I'm STILL waiting for stuff I order almost two weeks ago to get here. That gasket maker just shipped yesterday. Unbelievable. That and the 1/4 double barbed elbows that I got in the mail were not 1/4. 1/4 inches is the diameter of the inside of the fitting right? because these that I have are 1/16. Or is it the case were 1/8 npt has a 3/8 diameter and I just ****ed myself again.
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Old April 14th, 2013, 07:00 AM   #101
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Work and school busy busy busy. So this sounds so simple to install. I don't have a choice anyway but I think I'm going to wait until your bike @Red250R is running until I even start mine. Well I've already made the brackets and pump holder so yeah I've started but yeah like I said this is my only vehicle. That and I'm STILL waiting for stuff I order almost two weeks ago to get here. That gasket maker just shipped yesterday. Unbelievable. That and the 1/4 double barbed elbows that I got in the mail were not 1/4. 1/4 inches is the diameter of the inside of the fitting right? because these that I have are 1/16. Or is it the case were 1/8 npt has a 3/8 diameter and I just ****ed myself again.
The parts that are threaded are 1/8" NPT and are about 3/8" actual outside diameter. "NPT" means "National Pipe Thread". Sometimes you see MNPT or FNPT which means "Male" and "Female" respectively. You don't absolutely need a 1/8" pipe thread tap. You could use a small brass brush to clear the threads instead. Steel brushes should be avoided because they can ruin the aluminum.

The 1/4" barbed fittings are supposed to be 1/4" on the outside (smallest section not the barbed part). Brass, aluminum or stainless can be used for these. Plastic is too thick.

What you need for the threaded fittings are 1/8" NPT threads. They also make a fitting called "1/8 x 1/4 barbed fitting" at Lowes that is backwards. It is 1/4" NPT x 1/8" barbed and that wont work so don't buy that. The barbed part is too small and the threaded part is too big.

Here is a source for 1/4" barbed elbows if you can't find them at your local hardware store.

Here is a place that looks promising, but I've never ordered from them before. They list in MIPS and FIPS which is the same as MNPT and FNPT respectively.

1/8" MNPT close nipple (also at Lowes)

Brass 1/8" NPT Tee (also at Lowes)

If you plan on skipping the test port for now, here is a plug to take its place temporarily.

Or you can just use an elbow instead of a Tee.

Sometimes ebay has the best prices on stuff. Here is a straight 1/4" barb to 1/8" NPT adapter.

Compared to Amazon.


But before you order anything, you need to check with your local hardware store, plumbing supply store, hydraulic supply store, and beverage supply store.

EDIT: With the new fuel pump, you don't need the barbed tee because there is no bubbler line. You don't absolutely have to have barbed elbows, but they make everything a lot easier.
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Old April 14th, 2013, 05:29 PM   #102
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Yeah I went to like 5 different stores to find everything. I only had to order a couple pieces online. No biggie. It'll prolly be a week or so before I get it pieced together. Between working 3rd shift and class at night before work, it's hard to find time to sleep AND work on it. Not to mention it's been raining quite a bit here and I have no garage lol
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Old April 15th, 2013, 06:28 PM   #103
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I got everything else at the only hardware store that is understocked in the small town that I live in. All the store didn't have was barbed elbows, gasket maker and some other things. It's gonna be a while before I do anything.
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Old April 15th, 2013, 06:31 PM   #104
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Refresh my memory: what's the gasket maker for again?
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Old April 15th, 2013, 07:07 PM   #105
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Refresh my memory: what's the gasket maker for again?
I think he's referring to the Permatex Form A Gasket thread sealer. In the video I used it to seal the threads when I installed the new fittings. Don't use pipe thread sealer or teflon because it clogs up everything. But actually, any gasoline resistant thread sealer will work, that's just the only one I could find. I even found several automotive grade thread sealers, but they all had on the package "Don't use this product with gasoline".

I'm really not all that crazy about the permatex because, although its gasoline resistant, its not alcohol resistant. So far it hasn't been a problem on my bike, but with congress talking about 15% ethanol in the gas coming soon, who knows?

But, like I said, its the best I could find.

EDIT:
Here are some possibly local sources:

Advance Auto Parts

NAPA

Walmart

Most of those URLs allow you to check your local store inventory online to see if they carry it.
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Old April 15th, 2013, 07:51 PM   #106
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Regarding the valve adjustment, I do know for a fact that it is MUCH harder to do on a newgen. With the pregen, you only have to pop the valve cover and turn a few screws. With the newgen, you have to remove the cams and play with shims.
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My understanding is that it is a trial and error process in that you take it all apart, guess at the right shims, put it all back together and test it. If you guessed right on all 8 valves, then hooray. But if not, you get to do it all over again.
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No, there's some math involved to get it right.
There are several videos on youtube on how to adjust valves for pregens but none for newgens. I have a newgen so what should I do. Where can I get a good manual for a decent price for this bike? Or is it just like a pregen under there.
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Old April 15th, 2013, 08:55 PM   #107
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There are several videos on youtube on how to adjust valves for pregens but none for newgens. I have a newgen so what should I do. Where can I get a good manual for a decent price for this bike? Or is it just like a pregen under there.
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=9787

...aaaaand

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=9924


It's definitely not a pregen under the hood.
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Old April 15th, 2013, 10:20 PM   #108
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Are you saying we HAVE to do a valve adjustment for this?
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Old April 15th, 2013, 10:29 PM   #109
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If it's around 7500 mile according to one of the posts he put there. I'm at 6500 so I might as well look at them at least while the tank is off.
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Old April 15th, 2013, 10:36 PM   #110
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Ah alright. Cuz I'm at I think 7000 or close to it and I'm due for it soon but the DIY makes it look like a nightmare. I know my ****, but I also know a headache when I see one.
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Old April 16th, 2013, 11:12 AM   #111
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MPG gains, possible buyer

I just found this thread, is the group buy still open? Also, anyone have an idea of mpg gains? I was planning on doing this but now that the 300 is out I don't know. I'll have to compare the specs on both but I do know I enjoy my pregen and wanted to try EFI before the 300 came out. Too bad there wasn't a kit for the 500, I got a mint one last year.
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Old April 16th, 2013, 11:37 AM   #112
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Also, anyone have an idea of mpg gains?

...

Too bad there wasn't a kit for the 500, I got a mint one last year.
MPG gains are impressive. All my numbers are from mixed (some highway commuting, some fun time, and some putting around town) riding. On ECO mode, I get around 65. On RICH mode, I get around 53-55. This is with a pod filter and full exhaust. I recently switched back to the air box, so I expect both of those to get better. I'm hoping for around 58-60 on RICH with the air box.

...

With a little time, I'm sure you could retrofit one of Matt's kits to a 500. Ecotrons makes other size throttle bodies, and the software would be very similar to the 250 since the engines are both parallel twins. It wouldn't be a huge favor to ask Matt if he'd be willing to work with you and set up a kit for your 500.
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Old April 16th, 2013, 11:52 AM   #113
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The group buy is over and done with. You can contact ecotrons directly to see if he will let you in this late.

For a Ninja 500, the existing ecotrons TB wont work right because its too small. You might look into getting a TB for a 650 which might be exactly what you need. You'll still need some kind of reducers because the 500 is 34mm and the 650 is 38mm.

Once you have that, it might be possible to adapt the rest of the kit.
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Old April 16th, 2013, 04:32 PM   #114
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@choneofakind

I didn't even know that was you responding lol your avatar scared me.
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Old April 16th, 2013, 05:24 PM   #115
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Chris, Did you upset Alex again?
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Old April 16th, 2013, 05:28 PM   #116
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Originally Posted by Red250R View Post
@choneofakind

I didn't even know that was you responding lol your avatar scared me.
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Originally Posted by n4mwd View Post
Chris, Did you upset Alex again?
You two just made me laugh out loud. My room mate is making weird faces at me because I'm laughing for no reason.

No, that's me at greek week. Just thought it was a funny picture. It's on my facebook profile too. That's the one picture that the official ONU photographer got of me the entire week. I think he shy'd away from me after he knew I was going to make faces at him
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Old April 16th, 2013, 11:00 PM   #117
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That's like the first picture of an actual person I've seen on this sight.
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Old April 17th, 2013, 06:33 AM   #118
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There's a few pictures of a few of us on here. You just have to know where to look Mostly we just have pictures of our beloved ninjettes.
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Old April 22nd, 2013, 03:00 PM   #119
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I kind of disappointed there wasn't a decal that came with it. Every other aftermarket thing I've got for this bike had a decal.
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Old April 23rd, 2013, 07:00 AM   #120
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Do you like this one? It's about half the letter size.

Anybody else wants it?

Just need to cover the shipping cost.

Later on, it can be included in the kit. Ask for it to be sure.
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