Shift Light / Gear Indicator - Custom by ninja250

[ninja250]

OK it seems to be clear you guys don't want them in a case,
You want them with remote digits and LEDs for in dash mounting. (correct?)

Most of you seem to indicate you want the shift light addition before you purchase also.

I guess I will shut down production and start work on the shift light programming addition.

I will keep this gauge in a case as my personal gauge. I rather liked it myself to be honest. lol

Once the RPM shifting program addition has been finished I will be back looking for deposits on your gauges.

Many thanks

[ducducgooseit]

[ninja250]

Don't be smiling because the next thing I do after I write the rest of the program is taking pre-order payments. lol

I'm not building any more of these things without reimbursement because somebody decides they don't want a case anymore. I can't operate that way. This one is OK because I need one to work on the program.

All of the gauges I build form now on must be paid in full up front. (once I request payment meaning I am ready to begin ordering parts and assembly)

To be continued when I finish the program. I will likely get busy tomorrow but I feel a short break coming on for exercise. This stuff kills my back. Have to go in spurts.

[ninja250]

Just finished another remote gauge.
this one has the remote digit and the remote LED like I installed it on Honey Badger's bike. It would appear this is how you guys want them made.

It has Bob's colors. Also the heat sink is on there.

[headshrink]

I'm thinking about using a plastic hobby box to house both the SL/GI, & my Daytona Water Temp. The GI digi would be placed right next to the Temp gauge.

Think heat would be an issue if I put the board in the box, or should I keep it under the dash?

[EsrTek]

Ah we gotta wait now...I didn't want the shift light, all I want is a remote number, to tell me which gear I'm in... cash in PayPal ready...
(color is secondary, anything that will match up good to the stock white dash's).

[ninja250]

You all want something different.
I'm doing my best to give each of you what you want.
EsrTek, if you want I can give you this one with remote digit and LED.
The LED just blinks when you actually shift. You can either leave it or cut it off.
PM me if you want the one with remote items and no case. I'll ship it as soon as I receive payment.

Bob, if your stuff is remote, you should just put the circuit under the dash with the rest of the wires. You have about a foot of cable on the digit and a foot of cable on the LED which leaves you about enough room to mount the circuit board behind the dash. Then it can be in the open to cool itself off without a case because under the dash won't get hit with rain. Unless you aren't mounting the remote items inside the dash! Then I suppose you will have to put them where you can?!

It appears the unit doesn't get too hot to be in a case. A metal case, that is, that can absorb the heat and not melt. I wouldn't be so keep to install things inside the case with it to be honest.

You wil have to play with it and see where you want it. Wire it up, play with it, then decide where to put it.

Let me go get a pic of the shift clamp angle and the distance to the switchs from the clamp.

[ninja250]

Here is wherw we put Honey Badger's remote gauge circuit board.
It' stays out in the open to remain cool on the back of his gauge cluster.
You can see a grey wire coming off the circuit board going into the gauge bezel.
This is the wire leading to the digit.
The photo does not show the rest of the wires hooked up yet.. or his fancy relay driving his shift light.


Now let me get you guys the clamp/cover/distance switches picture.

[ninja250]

The clamp has to be about 45* off vertical or horizontal for the switch bracket to work. The optimal gas from the switch housing to the clamp seems to be about 4.5mm.
You can then bend the tabs on the switches close to the clamp to get a shift sensed. Better than having the switches too close and they get crushed by the rotating clamp.

Don't forget to notch the sprocket cover to clear the bolt on the back side of the switches bracket. Also, you have to notch the clamp bolt flange to clear the switch levers.

This should work with any aftermarket rearset.
Just make sure to notch the flange on the clamp bolt... it hits the switch levers if you don't.







You can see I'm using either black hot glue or liquid electrical tape to seal up the contacts on the switches from water. There is also a small ziptie holding the wires to the sprocket cover through some shrink tube. I had to drill the holes in the sprocket cover for this zip tie.

I used standard spade and female connectors to make the connection from the sprocket cover switches wires to the bike. One of the wires goes to ground to the sprocket cover bolts.

[streetracer744]

Hey I have a Ninja 500 but they are pretty similar...I would be down for this kit but only for the Gear Indicator..I dont think the rest would woek for my bike...But i think the micro switchs to the gear indicator and then wired into my bike using my Diagram would work perfect!

[streetracer744]

If you think you can make a simple kit that would work (with a little more install on my end) Im ready to pay $$ now!

[jdoucet93]

Originally Posted by streetracer744

Hey I have a Ninja 500 but they are pretty similar...I would be down for this kit but only for the Gear Indicator..I dont think the rest would woek for my bike...But i think the micro switchs to the gear indicator and then wired into my bike using my Diagram would work perfect!

yeah, itll work. All you have to do it tap your neutral sensor and get it a switched power source. The switches just connect to the gauge.

[Momaru]

Just so you're not chompin' at the bit to see how things are going KC,
my install may take a little while longer than many folks'. I'll likely be re-working the new wires into some of the crimps on the stock wiring instead of truly splicing in. Keeps things tidy and easy to remove (not that I think I will, just my way of doin' things). For some reason I'm just really averse to cutting into the stock wiring for any reason.

That said, I'll probably rig up something temporary-like to get it goin' and set up.

And on a note of clarity: there's tapping and taping. I *think* you have been tapping the brown line into the wiring for the neutral sensor near the switch, instead of taping it down there for reasons unknown Nitpicking, yes, but it confused me so it's bound to get someone else too

[ninja250]

We'll just call it a splice from now on, for clarity. lol

The wire coming from the gauge would be brown and the wire coming from the sensor seems to be a light blue-green aqua color almost. Not exactly sure how to describe that one..

I can get more pictures of course.

Interested to see how you mount it. Take your time! No rush! It's yours to do with as you please.


If it compels you, desolder the digit, slap it on some remote wires and land it where you need it.
I just did the same last night to adrian's gauge I'm installing Sunday. Everyone wants the digit inside the dash now.

[ninja250]

Working on understanding the concept of how to make the chip capture the RPM input signals now via the programming.

This is not easy! One of the hardest things to understand I have ever come across in my life! ARG!

Now you guys know why I was avoiding it.
It's very possible though and I'm learning it now.

This stuff makes me pull my hair out! I dread programming

Here you guys figure this out:

#define TIMER1_PRESCALE 64
#define FILTIME 1000


volatile unsigned int rpm;
volatile unsigned int diff,in_timeout;
#define IN_RELOAD 20 //if no pulses for 50ms * 20 = 1second, rpm value is zeroed


//TIMER1 initialize - prescale:64
// WGM: 0) Normal, TOP=0xFFFF
// sense on ICP falling edge
void timer1_init(void)
{
TCCR1B = 0x00; //stop
TCCR1A = 0x00;
TCCR1B = 0x83; //start Timer
}

//
//
// RPM pulses get us here
//
//
ISR(TIMER1_CAPT_vect)
{
static unsigned int cap1,prev;

cap1 = ICR1; //gcc reads the capture regs in the correct order!

diff = cap1 - prev; //calc difference
prev = cap1; //update previous value
in_timeout = IN_RELOAD; //reload input timeout
//
// for input filter. disable further input captures for FILTIME ticks
//
TIFR1 = (1<<OCF1A); //clear any previous OCR1A ints
OCR1A = cap1 + FILTIME;
TIMSK1 |=(1<<OCIE1A); //enable COMPA ints
TIMSK1 &= ~(1<<ICIE1); //disable input capture ints
}

No freakin' joke!
I'm a wheelie kinda guy not a bookworm.. but I'm doing my best.

[wellcraft]

Originally Posted by ninja250

Don't be smiling because the next thing I do after I write the rest of the program is taking pre-order payments. lol

I'm not building any more of these things without reimbursement because somebody decides they don't want a case anymore. I can't operate that way. This one is OK because I need one to work on the program.

All of the gauges I build form now on must be paid in full up front. (once I request payment meaning I am ready to begin ordering parts and assembly)

To be continued when I finish the program. I will likely get busy tomorrow but I feel a short break coming on for exercise. This stuff kills my back. Have to go in spurts.

Pm sent.

[Momaru]

Originally Posted by ninja250

Working on understanding the concept of how to make the chip capture the RPM input signals now via the programming.

This is not easy! One of the hardest things to understand I have ever come across in my life! ARG!

Now you guys know why I was avoiding it.
It's very possible though and I'm learning it now.

This stuff makes me pull my hair out! I dread programming

Here you guys figure this out:




No freakin' joke!
I'm a wheelie kinda guy not a bookworm.. but I'm doing my best.

Yikes. We appreciate your hard work, even though it's probably not proportional to the time/effort you're puttin' in. But hey, you're building skills and making something bloody unique & useful with 'em!

[ninja250]

They wanted me to put this together to help myself learn from what I am doing without knowing it.
this is called a Finite State Machine. As you can see there is no ends left untied.
It is a graphical representation of what my code is doing when it is operating your gear display.

Now I need to add the portion to control the RPM.
It has to operate completely simultaneous/multitasked in the processor while all this is going on.

[ninja250]

So as you guys can see from the graphical program representation,
the gauge will sit there and blink until it detects neutral, when it is first turned on.
Unless of course it is turned on in neutral.

(That's if the potentiometer is all the way to the left, there is code not shown in the FSM diagram hehe)

[Momaru]

Originally Posted by ninja250

So as you guys can see from the graphical program representation,
the gauge will sit there and blink until it detects neutral, when it is first turned on.
Unless of course it is turned on in neutral.

(That's if the potentiometer is all the way to the left, there is code not shown in the FSM diagram hehe)

I'm sorry KC, initially translated FSM to

Then I read the post above. Gotta stop finding alternative meanings for acronyms that have already been explained. I think the substitution kinda works, but your diagram is blessedly orderly.

What kinds of "hidden" code are we talking about here? At some point do I need to worry about this chip taking over my bike?

[Swampotter]

Originally Posted by EsrTek

Ah we gotta wait now...I didn't want the shift light, all I want is a remote number, to tell me which gear I'm in... cash in PayPal ready...
(color is secondary, anything that will match up good to the stock white dash's).

I've been with this thread from almost the beginning and it's gotten a little too technical for me. I'm with Eric, I just want something that will tell me what gear I'm in. If it mounts clean inside the bezel, great...if not, outside works too. As for colors, whatever's easiest.

[jdoucet93]

got my new switches in today. Gonna work on installing and testing them in te next few days. Dealing with a tropical storm right now so cant really do much outside. As soon as i clears up though, ill be back with updates

[ninja250]

Folks I am aware there is another gear indicator gauge out there that works for the ninjette.
I believe his design came after mine (although I can't be positive). He uses magnets instead of switches and sells on ebay. I never saw this system available when I first came out with mine. (trust me, I searched all over at that time)

If you guys want a universal system for just gear indication, perhaps you should go with his design. It looks more streamlined.

If you want something mounted in dash or you value the shift light, you'll want to wait around for mine.
My gauge will have more features shortly than anything I have seen yet.
That's the problem with copies. They will never be as good.

Here is the competition. I'm not going to hide it from you.
But I think mine may have been the original, last year when I started the project. Also I made my switch brackets specifically to work with the ninja.
If you want a cheap gear indicator and don't want to wait for what I'm making, go here.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Blue-...#ht_6410wt_931

Now that "Honey Badger" Kevin has his gear indicator in dash and can receive all the program updates he specifically asks for, ask him which version he would have rather gone with.

This here is a small computer that I can tailor to your application.
Soon enough it will know when to shift and what gear and speed you are in before you do.
This is not a simple product.

Can the competition give you the colors you want? Change your code?
Add features? Customize the case or remove it all together?
Can you ship the product back and fourth to the competition easily if there is a problem?

You can with me, but it will require more patience and more $$$ because I hand make all this stuff. Lol, I can't outdo China.

[headshrink]

Boo for cheap chineese copies!

[ducducgooseit]

Yea for america. (rest of world must please be patient with internal flag waving)

[headshrink]

Originally Posted by ducducgooseit

Yea for america. (rest of world must please be patient with internal flag waving)

Rest of the world.... oh, you must mean the midwest? LOL

[Swampotter]

Group 2:
1)Key3thermal (?,?)
2)Swampotter (remote superbrite yellow LED, remote digit)
3)Bob Headshrink (remote Yellow/Amber LED, remote digit)
4)EddieNewYork (?,?)
5)Ytse Frobozz (?,?)
6)ichibunkid.206 (?,?)
7)pilotgeorge747 (?,?)
8)mvc2demon ? (?,?)
9)ducducgooseit (remote Red LED, remote digit)
10)EsrTek (remote red digit to go by fuel gauge, no shift light)

Group 3:
1)AeroXtasy (Can I get a blue LED + shift light?
2)
3)
4)
5)
6)
7)
8)
9)
10)

[ninja250]

Guys I put one into Adrian's stock Tachometer today.
It looks amazing!
Pictures cannot do it justice. Only video will suffice our viewing pleasure!
Sooner than later.

I installed the gauge in about an hour, too.
I just need about another hour to install his switches and he is done.

The tachometer with the digit and the shift light in it is pure gold.
Well, the shift light is blue. But you know what I mean.

1) It works and
2) it looks amazing! It looks so good you have to train your eyes off of it.

I have a few PM's I will get to in the morning after my home chores.
Check out today's tech day thread for more info (9-5-2011)

Lots more work to do on my gauges but they're the coolest thing since sliced bread IMO.
Just takes forever to get anything done on my own while doing installs and mechanic work on the side.

[headshrink]

The pic in the tach is pretty awesome! Is it difficults to get in there w/o destroying things?

[ninja250]

I think this is one of those things where a picture tutorial/DIY would explain it best step by step.

It's easy, if you take your time and follow a few simple basic guidelines.
Some people can use a dremel to cut a small hole really quick. Others can't
It's not their fault, they just don't have as much practice as somebody else.

You never know what the end user is going to do. I try and remain optimistic that I can help all of you to install it on your bike, and if not, you're free to box up and send me your gauges and I will install one and have it back to you in a week.

Gotta give Honey Badger And DucDuc credit for the gauge install, they both came to me with the ideas first.

This is why I like working with you guys.
I'm still behind on some PM's but I can assure you I'm so busy I don't have the time.
I'll bbl.

[streetracer744]

i would like one just for gear indicator no led or rpm...just as simple as it gets....How much for that

[headshrink]

For those considering the ebay option: make sure you figure out the mounting of the switches before ordering. I don't think we have the clearance necessary to mount the magnetic switches on the ebay version (without figuring out a work-around). KC designed this one specifically for the Ninjette, so you know it is good!

[ninja250]

I gotta buy a new drill to make us more custom switch brackets!
got a few errands today again too. Lots of setbacks on the programming
I'm sure I'll free up some time here shortly to get something done.

[ninja250]

guys sorry for the delays.
got a lot going on this week/weekend.
I will be back at this shortly.
Sunday or Monday or so.
I'm booked up until Sunday.

[ninja250]

Originally Posted by jdoucet93

got my new switches in today. Gonna work on installing and testing them in te next few days. Dealing with a tropical storm right now so cant really do much outside. As soon as i clears up though, ill be back with updates

Any luck man?
Seems we are having trouble getting them installed unless I do it myself for some reason.

Honey badger's works but his Neutral light is still on I guess. He didn't install his needle right, that's why his fuel gauge is off (not from me)

Adrian's works normally I just put in. I do have to move his rpm needle 500rpm down more (it's tricky to get them back on perfect)

Mine works fine on my bike. (the one inside of the metal case)

But these are all the ones I did myself.

If the end users can't get them installed I won't be able to sell them!
So far the first round test run isn't looking so good.

I have one left if somebody is brave enough to give it a go! It has remote digit and remote shift LED.

Otherwise bring your bike to me and I will install it here and test it?

[ninja250]

Gotta take a small break from the gauges for right now.
I know I promised I would get some work done on them today but it seems I have picked up a small piece of metal in my eye from dremeling gauge switch brackets a couple weeks ago and now it's finally caught up to me and I have to go get it removed.

I'm heading down later today to the ER to have them take the thing out of my eye. I went last night to another doctor who said he couldn't get the thing out after I waited all that time and paid $75 to be seen.

Wish me luck, I have to go have some doctors dig something out of my eye. They told me they would have to remove a small amount of material around the particle also because metal can cause rust rings in your eye. So looks like they have to take out slightly more than just the particle. Ew!

Here's to people diggin' in my eye to make me feel better. lol
I'll be back with an update sooner or later.
-one eye

[Alex]

Don't go to the ER, go to an opthalmologist. You want someone that knows eyes working on this, not a general ER doc.

I have had the same thing happen twice, getting metal debris in my eye from leaving my shield open a crack on the highway.

[DemonRider]

Hope your eye is OK!!

Looks like you have room for Group Three?, I'm in for sure:} two of'em please (Blue LED and Blue indicator light.)

Thank You Very Much.

[headshrink]

Oh man... I'm writhing just thinking about it! I hope it is as quick, painless, and peacefully as possible. Take care of yourself first.

[ninja250]

Sat in the ER all day today for nada.
They poked things into my right eye when the problem is with my left eye.
None of the things they poked my eyes with looked like object removing utensils either.
You guys know how annoying it is having a doctor saying he has to poke you in the eye several times with an instrument that isn't working and having to do it over and over again and it finally never did work anyways?

They also did a cornea scratch test and they keep saying there is no scratches in my eye. They all see the object and nobody wants to reach in there and grab it.
They numb my eyes each time... I don't know why they don't just grab the thing with a tiny tweezer really quick and get it over with.

They sent for an eye specialist to come and work on me and I sat there in the ER for four hours before I got sick of waiting around.

I left with the thing in my eye.
I guess Kevin is saying go to an eye doctor.
I'll call around and see if any eye doctors have the ability to remove foreign objects from eyes before I go down there first and get ripped off again.


I can see the damn object right there in my left eye at the 7o'clock position.
It's a tiny black dot and it doesn't move if I poke it with my finger.
I need somebody highly skilled with a tweezer to just come over and pick it out really quick before I go nuts and deck them. hhaha