Ninja 300 Smog Delete

mattmid · October 18th, 2014, 07:36 AM

Well for the first time working on the bike, I must say it isn’t that bad. The fairings were easy to figure out without any instructions and everything else you can literally see everything you need to remove to access the area you want. So for my first Mod that I am installing on my Bike is the SSR Smog Block off Plate. If I knew it was only going to be a small piece of metal I probably would have just made it at work for much cheaper, but for 15$ it’s not that bad. While most of the pictures you will notice I have more taken off the bike, that’s because I am also installing a K&N pod filters.

First step is to make her naked don’t need to go as far as I did since I was also removing the intake and all that I removed a lot of extras. You can see my lowers dangling, that’s because whoever installed my exhaust striped out that bolt and it’s just a circle. No need to drill it out just yet
I would say Sides, Fronts; Gas tank (not needed just makes it easier).

Next would be to remove the 2 tubes off the Valve and off the engine plate and air box.

Remove the 2 bolts on the engine plate

mattmid · October 18th, 2014, 07:37 AM

Reinstall SSR Block Off Plate with 2 washers (Not Included)

Plug the inlet and outlet of the valve

This image is showing you the valve is easy to pull of the connection on the bike. Just slides off makes it easier to maneuver around to replug it

mattmid · October 18th, 2014, 07:37 AM

I’m not pulling the 2 sensors, small hose running to throttle body or the valve itself like on the 250s as it’s a Air Pressure sensor it needs to stay installed.

Plug the Intake inlet, Im not showing this as I removed my intake completely.

But thats for a separate write up on Pod Install

Bam your done, Start her up

Should remove all backfiring found with Aftermarket Exhaust systems

pratik06 · October 18th, 2014, 08:47 AM

.... Have been thinking about doing this. Very helpful. Thanks

dcj13 · October 18th, 2014, 11:17 AM

Good looking anodized plate. And good pics!

All this work to get rid of popping on decel? Are power commanders or tuneboys available for the bike?

micoulisninja · October 18th, 2014, 11:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dcj13

Good looking anodized plate. And good pics!

All this work to get rid of popping on decel? Are power commanders or tuneboys available for the bike?

it is also necessary to get correct AFR readings when tuning piggybacks such as the PC V, which are available for the 300 along with any other big-bike tuning stuff...
@mattmid you need to get rid of those secondary butterflies to gain some torque in the low-mid and some quicker revving...

mattmid · October 18th, 2014, 11:29 AM

So what pull the throttle bodies and pull out the butterflies?

micoulisninja · October 18th, 2014, 12:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mattmid

So what pull the throttle bodies and pull out the butterflies?

you unbolt the bolt that holds the secondary butterflies on the axle and remove them....no pulling, be gentle and careful not to let the bolts go down the bodies...you need a very precise screwdriver because the bolt has been glued by the factory and needs a bit of pressure only at the first revolving... if you are new to engine mods, better have someone more experienced do it for you...

mattmid · October 19th, 2014, 09:58 AM

Here is the Block off plate

http://www.slingshotracing.net/catal...ate-p-498.html

The other things that i used were Dorman Bypass Cap Assortment #02253 comes with 8 of them. 4 different sizes and i used the 1/2 caps.

Here are the final pics not so great. Ill do a write up for the Pod Filters as well with links for everything needed. I didnt take to many picture for that one though.

What did you guys do with the valve? same thing i did?

left 2 sensors, blocked off 2 ports, left hose going to throttle body?

garth285 · October 29th, 2014, 07:05 AM

Most of the time you can just remove the valve completely and leave the plug alone, if it does throw an FI light you can just make a jumper inside the plug and that will take care of it.

Just an FYI zx10r block off plates work as well and you can buy two for about $16 off flebay so if you and a buddy want a set thats a cheap option.

I used to take the cap off and JB weld the opening and be done with it but its nice to have a little more room above the valve cover.

Looking good!

P.S. if you ever want to mess with the ECU let me know I can flash it for ya ;-)

Somchai · October 30th, 2014, 01:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by garth285

P.S. if you ever want to mess with the ECU let me know I can flash it for ya ;-)

@mattmid, I would recommend you to think about the offer from @garth285, since it is the fuel-mapping what at least makes the popping go away.
I did all those mods also, the popping didn't go away until I started to adjust my fuel-mapping with the Leovince FAST-Fuelsystem with at least some pops still coming sometimes.
Now with the knowledge of the fuel-mapping inside my ECU I'd change my FAST-Mapping according to the ECU and got - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fPo6v0KhBdw

garth285 · October 30th, 2014, 05:53 AM

Popping on decel yes is sometimes normal even if you do the block off plates but if you can tune the bike either threw ECU or piggy back (Power commander/Leo Vince) its not to hard.

What I normally do is on the dyno I will run the engine up to max RPM's and I will let the bike decel and watch the tach.... if the bike pops from say 7,000 rpm down to 4,000 rpm I will at the 0% Throttle position on the map I will subtract 10% fuel which is normally 0% and run the bike again and see if it goes away. Most of the time it works perfectly but sometimes you have to ADD 10% fuel... That popping is unburnt fuel firing off....

Quick and easy fix, hope that helps anyone here!

Somchai · October 31st, 2014, 02:51 AM

Some more informations about popping and mapping of fuel.
After I've started remapping my fuel again, this time according to the stock-map inside my ECU my first guess was to look for the richest values and then set all my values in case of rpm to this.
This made my setup really rich and after my test-ride (also while it) my first thoughts have been: Oh what a crap!
My Ninjette was running but with a little bit of feeling about how an engine should run I think everybody could feel that this is nothing good and not so powerful like it should be. It felt like the clutch grinding.
The second case with this setup what I saw was that the water temperature was around 10 degrees Celsius higher than before!?!
So I started my next trial (please remember we don't have a dyno here, I use my experience from long ago and my butt for this) and not only with the word from German tuners in mind, but with Fuel-Injection go to the leanest possible point since there's (in most cases) the highest and best power-output and this differs to the old-aged setup of carburettors with racing-cams.
While and after my test-ride I had a big grin all over my face and I can say: I'd find it...

By the way, the setup now means no great differences to the map inside the ECU and at least I only took the peaks away but now my 2-fiddy is running as smooth as she never did before, starts pulling powerful from 4000 rpm all the way up to 12500 rpm.
One word to remind about exhaust popping, please read what this member wrote, since it may give a better understanding about how to act: https://www.ninjette.org/forums/show...45&postcount=8
And my last word to this issue and this is a VERY important one: a good fuel-mapping also highly depends on the fuel you are using - ALWAYS keep this in mind!
Another guy I met here is using another brand of piggy-back for fuel-mapping with his Ninja 250 and his setup from the company doing it for him, with which one he is happy, is very rich compared to my map, but since he is using 91 RON E10 (Ethanol 10%) I believe him that it feels good, but since I am using the best quality brand of benzine one can get here, which is also used in small aircrafts, and also this in 95 RON so my setup must be more lean and not only about the environment with high temperatures (35 degrees Celsius nowadays).
If one asks about my map, please understand that it doesn't make no sense to show anything since my engine is special, my country-version and also the environment here is different.
Good luck for everybody in modifying his bike.

JohnnyBravo · October 31st, 2014, 08:54 AM

@mattmid

Might wanna put this in the wikki

LoneRonin · November 3rd, 2014, 10:02 AM

My ghetto MacGyver fix was just using the front brake line as a plug. I replaced it with a ss line so it was just laying around and I cut it down to size, it fits in the holes perfect. It used a screw to seal off the ends.

October 18th, 2014, 07:36 AM	#1
mattmid ninjette.org member Name: matt Location: Clarksville, TN Join Date: Oct 2014 Motorcycle(s): 2014 ninja 300 se abs Posts: 21	Ninja 300 Smog Delete Well for the first time working on the bike, I must say it isn’t that bad. The fairings were easy to figure out without any instructions and everything else you can literally see everything you need to remove to access the area you want. So for my first Mod that I am installing on my Bike is the SSR Smog Block off Plate. If I knew it was only going to be a small piece of metal I probably would have just made it at work for much cheaper, but for 15$ it’s not that bad. While most of the pictures you will notice I have more taken off the bike, that’s because I am also installing a K&N pod filters. First step is to make her naked don’t need to go as far as I did since I was also removing the intake and all that I removed a lot of extras. You can see my lowers dangling, that’s because whoever installed my exhaust striped out that bolt and it’s just a circle. No need to drill it out just yet I would say Sides, Fronts; Gas tank (not needed just makes it easier). Next would be to remove the 2 tubes off the Valve and off the engine plate and air box. Remove the 2 bolts on the engine plate

October 18th, 2014, 11:29 AM	#7
mattmid ninjette.org member Name: matt Location: Clarksville, TN Join Date: Oct 2014 Motorcycle(s): 2014 ninja 300 se abs Posts: 21	So what pull the throttle bodies and pull out the butterflies? __________________________________________________ 2014 Ninja 300 SE ABS Yoshi FE, K&N Pod Filter, SSR Block Off, EJK Fuel Tuner

October 19th, 2014, 09:58 AM	#9
mattmid ninjette.org member Name: matt Location: Clarksville, TN Join Date: Oct 2014 Motorcycle(s): 2014 ninja 300 se abs Posts: 21	Here is the Block off plate http://www.slingshotracing.net/catal...ate-p-498.html The other things that i used were Dorman Bypass Cap Assortment #02253 comes with 8 of them. 4 different sizes and i used the 1/2 caps. Here are the final pics not so great. Ill do a write up for the Pod Filters as well with links for everything needed. I didnt take to many picture for that one though. What did you guys do with the valve? same thing i did? left 2 sensors, blocked off 2 ports, left hose going to throttle body? __________________________________________________ 2014 Ninja 300 SE ABS Yoshi FE, K&N Pod Filter, SSR Block Off, EJK Fuel Tuner

November 3rd, 2014, 10:02 AM	#15
LoneRonin ninjette.org sage Name: Jason Location: Mississauga Join Date: Mar 2011 Motorcycle(s): 09 Ninja 250r Posts: 634	My ghetto MacGyver fix was just using the front brake line as a plug. I replaced it with a ss line so it was just laying around and I cut it down to size, it fits in the holes perfect. It used a screw to seal off the ends. __________________________________________________ ”Any man dies with a clean sword, I’ll rape his f*ing corpse!”- The Hound

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October 18th, 2014, 07:37 AM	#2
mattmid ninjette.org member Name: matt Location: Clarksville, TN Join Date: Oct 2014 Motorcycle(s): 2014 ninja 300 se abs Posts: 21	Reinstall SSR Block Off Plate with 2 washers (Not Included) Plug the inlet and outlet of the valve This image is showing you the valve is easy to pull of the connection on the bike. Just slides off makes it easier to maneuver around to replug it

October 18th, 2014, 08:47 AM	#4
pratik06 ninjette.org member Name: Pratik Location: India Join Date: Sep 2013 Motorcycle(s): Yamaha R15, Kawasaki Ninja 300 Posts: 67	.... Have been thinking about doing this. Very helpful. Thanks

October 18th, 2014, 11:17 AM	#5
dcj13 Participant Name: Dave Location: South of Seattle Join Date: Oct 2012 Motorcycle(s): '94 K75 std Posts: Too much. MOTM - Aug '15	Good looking anodized plate. And good pics! All this work to get rid of popping on decel? Are power commanders or tuneboys available for the bike?

October 29th, 2014, 07:05 AM	#10
garth285 KAWASAKI GURU Name: Shawn Location: Florida Join Date: Jul 2013 Motorcycle(s): Turbo Ninja 250 Posts: 863	Most of the time you can just remove the valve completely and leave the plug alone, if it does throw an FI light you can just make a jumper inside the plug and that will take care of it. Just an FYI zx10r block off plates work as well and you can buy two for about $16 off flebay so if you and a buddy want a set thats a cheap option. I used to take the cap off and JB weld the opening and be done with it but its nice to have a little more room above the valve cover. Looking good! P.S. if you ever want to mess with the ECU let me know I can flash it for ya ;-)

October 30th, 2014, 05:53 AM	#12
garth285 KAWASAKI GURU Name: Shawn Location: Florida Join Date: Jul 2013 Motorcycle(s): Turbo Ninja 250 Posts: 863	Popping on decel yes is sometimes normal even if you do the block off plates but if you can tune the bike either threw ECU or piggy back (Power commander/Leo Vince) its not to hard. What I normally do is on the dyno I will run the engine up to max RPM's and I will let the bike decel and watch the tach.... if the bike pops from say 7,000 rpm down to 4,000 rpm I will at the 0% Throttle position on the map I will subtract 10% fuel which is normally 0% and run the bike again and see if it goes away. Most of the time it works perfectly but sometimes you have to ADD 10% fuel... That popping is unburnt fuel firing off.... Quick and easy fix, hope that helps anyone here!

October 31st, 2014, 02:51 AM	#13
Somchai Freedom for Germany Location: This World Join Date: May 2011 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 250R-FI Posts: A lot.	Some more informations about popping and mapping of fuel. After I've started remapping my fuel again, this time according to the stock-map inside my ECU my first guess was to look for the richest values and then set all my values in case of rpm to this. This made my setup really rich and after my test-ride (also while it) my first thoughts have been: Oh what a crap! My Ninjette was running but with a little bit of feeling about how an engine should run I think everybody could feel that this is nothing good and not so powerful like it should be. It felt like the clutch grinding. The second case with this setup what I saw was that the water temperature was around 10 degrees Celsius higher than before!?! So I started my next trial (please remember we don't have a dyno here, I use my experience from long ago and my butt for this) and not only with the word from German tuners in mind, but with Fuel-Injection go to the leanest possible point since there's (in most cases) the highest and best power-output and this differs to the old-aged setup of carburettors with racing-cams. While and after my test-ride I had a big grin all over my face and I can say: I'd find it... By the way, the setup now means no great differences to the map inside the ECU and at least I only took the peaks away but now my 2-fiddy is running as smooth as she never did before, starts pulling powerful from 4000 rpm all the way up to 12500 rpm. One word to remind about exhaust popping, please read what this member wrote, since it may give a better understanding about how to act: https://www.ninjette.org/forums/show...45&postcount=8 And my last word to this issue and this is a VERY important one: a good fuel-mapping also highly depends on the fuel you are using - ALWAYS keep this in mind! Another guy I met here is using another brand of piggy-back for fuel-mapping with his Ninja 250 and his setup from the company doing it for him, with which one he is happy, is very rich compared to my map, but since he is using 91 RON E10 (Ethanol 10%) I believe him that it feels good, but since I am using the best quality brand of benzine one can get here, which is also used in small aircrafts, and also this in 95 RON so my setup must be more lean and not only about the environment with high temperatures (35 degrees Celsius nowadays). If one asks about my map, please understand that it doesn't make no sense to show anything since my engine is special, my country-version and also the environment here is different. Good luck for everybody in modifying his bike.