August 28th, 2023, 06:00 AM | #1 |
ninjette.org newbie
Name: D
Location: Ontario
Join Date: Aug 2023 Motorcycle(s): 2006 ninja 636 Posts: 4
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No power to bike
Hey, i own a 2006 ninja 636 and i cant get power. I’ve blown my fuse three times now ( 30a ). The fuse blows when i turn the bike to ( on ) position. I cant seem to find the ground location, or a diagram showing me where it is. I’m assuming it has something to do with the ground but i’m not 100% sure.
The three times it happened was leaving a stop light ( once in first gear just leaving, other two times shifting to 2nd ). If anyone can help that would be appreciated greatly. I miss riding my baby 😭😭 |
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August 28th, 2023, 06:38 AM | #2 |
Fighting Texas Aggie '05
Name: Neil
Location: Hutto, TX
Join Date: Feb 2009 Motorcycle(s): '07 ZX6R, '08 Versys, '09 250R Track, '93 F2/F3 Track Posts: A lot.
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Most likely you have a short to ground where a wire has rubbed through the insulation and exposed the bare wire. If its happening intermittently, it could be something that is only rubbing (and now grounding) occasionally.
My race bike had a similar issue where the hydraulic hose rubbed on the wire harness under full compression, eventually blowing the fuse on track.
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August 28th, 2023, 07:28 AM | #3 |
ninjette.org newbie
Name: D
Location: Ontario
Join Date: Aug 2023 Motorcycle(s): 2006 ninja 636 Posts: 4
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So it could be any wire blowing the 30a main power? Where do you suggest i start? Im not very electrically inclined so im trying to gather as much info as possible before i start taking things apart.
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August 28th, 2023, 07:37 AM | #4 |
Guy Who Enjoys Riding
Name: Jim
Location: North Carolina
Join Date: Jul 2016 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 250 Posts: A lot.
MOTM - Oct '18, Aug '17, Aug '16
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It's most likely not one of the smaller wires on a circuit protected by a lower current fuse. Start with the wires on the non-battery side of that 30A fuse.
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August 29th, 2023, 08:47 AM | #5 | |
ninjette.org certified postwhore
Name: AKA JacRyann
Location: Mesa, AZ
Join Date: Dec 2011 Motorcycle(s): CB125T CBR250R-MC19 CBR250RR-MC22 NSR350R-MC21 VF500F CBR600RR SFV650 VFR750F R1M ST1300PA Valkyrie-F6C Posts: A lot.
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Quote:
Any non-stock mods? When was last time it worked perfectly? What happened between then and now? |
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August 29th, 2023, 09:22 PM | #6 |
ninjette.org newbie
Name: D
Location: Ontario
Join Date: Aug 2023 Motorcycle(s): 2006 ninja 636 Posts: 4
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The bike has a full two brothers exhaust system, and two LED &HID lights.
About a month and a half my side fairing flew off, ripping the led light system out. Everything looks ok for the wiring there. I had a clutch cable replaced over a month ago also. |
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August 30th, 2023, 09:16 AM | #7 |
ninjette.org certified postwhore
Name: AKA JacRyann
Location: Mesa, AZ
Join Date: Dec 2011 Motorcycle(s): CB125T CBR250R-MC19 CBR250RR-MC22 NSR350R-MC21 VF500F CBR600RR SFV650 VFR750F R1M ST1300PA Valkyrie-F6C Posts: A lot.
MOTY - 2018, MOTM - Nov '17
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Unless you are Superman and can see electrons moving inside wires, there's absolutely ZERO way any human can look at wires and determine its ability to conduct electricity. Luckily, we have instruments that can.
1. get multimeter: https://www.harborfreight.com/7-func...ter-63759.html 2. learn how to use it to measure voltage and resistance: https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials...multimeter/all 3. first-step is to remove all remnants of LED light system that wasn't ripped out. Most likely shreds of this wiring is connected improperly between power & ground causing short. Such as bare wires touching frame. Restore harness back to 100% bone-stock configuration. Because it worked perfectly fine when leaving factory and showroom floor, we want it back to that state 1st to get bike working. Remove all crimps and additional wires added. Only factory wires remaining. Cover any exposed wires in harness with good electrical tape. 4. That is just start and may not work because of alterations to harness. Next, we can measure various points on harness. And from numbers we can figure out exactly what's wrong and how to fix it. OR What lots of people do is just swap parts without ever finding actual fault. Requires replacing LOTS of perfectly-working parts with brand-new perfectly-working parts and nothing changes. But after their 100th parts-swap, they may luck out and randomly replace actual bad part without ever knowing what it was. Start with: - main harness https://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/p/...7/harness-main - battery cable+ https://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/p/...e-lead-battery - battery cable- https://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/p/...e-lead-battery https://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/a/...ical-equipment Last futzed with by DannoXYZ; August 30th, 2023 at 11:00 AM. |
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August 31st, 2023, 08:11 AM | #8 |
ninjette.org newbie
Name: D
Location: Ontario
Join Date: Aug 2023 Motorcycle(s): 2006 ninja 636 Posts: 4
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Hey thanks alot for the reply, i’ve used a multi meter and everything seems good with that (13v)
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September 11th, 2023, 05:22 AM | #9 |
Livin' the Minimoto Life
Name: Mark
Location: Riding around in TX
Join Date: Mar 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2022 Honda Navi, 2018 Z-125 Pro Posts: A lot.
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Before I dive into electronics troubleshooting, what does that 30A fuse do exactly?
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September 11th, 2023, 05:33 AM | #10 |
Guy Who Enjoys Riding
Name: Jim
Location: North Carolina
Join Date: Jul 2016 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 250 Posts: A lot.
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September 15th, 2023, 04:12 PM | #11 |
Retired motorcycle Mc.
Name: Robert
Location: Weed, California.
Join Date: Jul 2021 Motorcycle(s): 2012 Kawasaki Ninja 250R, 2021 CSC TT250, 1977 Triumph Bonneville 750cc,2001 Honda XR650L. Posts: A lot.
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in this case I would pull on the wireing harnis enough to get it away from the frame and twist it so you can see the underside that was touching the frame this is where you get wires exposed and short out if you find an area like that Repair it properly and use good insulation for the wires so it will never happen again. if all you have is black tape to repair it with then use a whole bunch so it can't rub through again.... most bikes will have a area that is prone to short out the wiring harness believe it or not ! this isn't a one off problem,... it happens all the time...
the problem with using a meter on intermittent shorts is when your trying to find it everything is good no shorts, the short only shows up when you hit a bump or turn the handle bars a certain way .... I am guessing because it shorted out when you shifted into 2nd 2 times that it is located near the engine under the seat , just a wild guess I assure you.....but that is where I'ed look... that in the headlight area as that is notorious for problems in all bikes what your looking for is hard to find.... a wire that has the insulation wore down on one side and the copper wire inside the wire is exposed I've found shorts like that many times behind the headlight in older bikes and by the rear fender and tail light I think your only hope at finding an intermittent short is to remove all the fairing **** and get down to the actual bike then start your looking intently on the main wiring harness.... if you find nothing then move to the smaller branches of the wiring harness checking them the full length.... be diligent around any areas that are around hot things like engine head or exhaust pipe.... the big wire that goes to the starter motor is controled by a relay but the relay is powered by alot of battery power.... and usually runs on the 30 amp circuit..... so check the wire from the battery to that starter relay and just make sure there are no bare spots in it... .... this is one of those " hunt until you find it" things.... there is no easy way ! Bob......
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