1990 Ninja 600R (ZX600C3) restore thread

[MR2Aaron]

Could the valve timing be off? This is the only reason I can think of that you'd so abruptly lose compression on all four cylinders. For instance, if the cam chain tensioner were loose, and allowed the timing chain to jump a couple of teeth.

Blown head gasket? A bad enough head gasket could conceivably explain why your coolant hose blew off.

Not much else to do at this point but start checking things until you find what's wrong.

[theJester517]

Hey guys I just signed up to Ninjette forums, I have a 1990 ZX600C-3 (600R) that I'm rebuilding right now, Last year I blew the tranny in it so I bought a 92 600r off craigslist for 200 bucks as a parts bike and I plan on swapping gear sets. That's all fine and dandy but when I'm done I plan on taking out my charcoal canister and fuel separator out and putting in the document holder and what not and turning it from California to US spec. I kinda was hoping I could get some help with the vacuum diagram between the carbs and the fuel tank on someone who already has a running US spec bike. Another question is I just rebuilt the carbs and had them synced last year and I was wondering if I will have to sync them again after removing the emissions garbage.
Thanks in advance

[SabreValkyrn]

Totally forgot to keep this thread up to date! I have a lot of pictures and information. Including a broken cam chain due to really abused valve locknuts that didn't lock and kinda backed off and fell into the engine. No damage that we could tell except for the cam chain.

Originally Posted by theJester517

I kinda was hoping I could get some help with the vacuum diagram between the carbs and the fuel tank on someone who already has a running US spec bike.

I'll see what I can do to get you a picture or diagram from my manual.

Originally Posted by theJester517

Another question is I just rebuilt the carbs and had them synced last year and I was wondering if I will have to sync them again after removing the emissions garbage.

Unless compression in a cylinder changes or you open the carbs again; you shouldn't need to resync.

[theJester517]

I have like three manuals I can look them up but I just wanted to see off an actual bike what ports on the carbs get caps and the same for the three off the back of the fuel tank. And I shouldn't be changing anything like compression just the fact that I won't be pushing through emissions devices. I'm concerned because I know my idle is supposed to drop like 300 RPM from Cal to US so I'm wondering if I can just rip the stuff out adjust it normally? Or do carbs needs to be played with? From what I've researched the needles and jets are the same so I know nothing is changing internally but I'm just trying to make sure before I take it out only to find the bike won't run at all

[theJester517]

Thanks so much man, I also have plenty of extra parts if you need anything

[SabreValkyrn]

Originally Posted by theJester517

Thanks so much man

Here you go. The #1 and #4 carb hoses go up to the breather Y thing. The hose between 1/2 and 3/4 join together and are fuel overflow line. Hose coming from the #1 carb goes to the vacuum ...spicket of the petcock. Hose going up from the #3 carb is capped off.

Not sure the state of origin, but there's a picture of Scrappy's tank. The little guy on the left is the overflow.

[ZeroG]

Pretty sure Scrappy is a California bike. My 600R only has one overflow drain off the back of the tank. I think the carbs are set up the same, though.

[theJester517]

Nah my california bike has three outlets on the back of the tank marked white, blue, and red, I need to make a thread of my rebuild. I'm not looking to change anything though just put it back stock and pretty and working. I'm boring.

[theJester517]

Hey man did you have to pull off the flywheel/stator/magneto/ too many names for it? I need to get mine off and apparently i need a special tool with a thread size and I have no idea

[SabreValkyrn]

Originally Posted by theJester517

Hey man did you have to pull off the flywheel/stator/magneto/ too many names for it? I need to get mine off and apparently i need a special tool with a thread size and I have no idea

No, I just had to drain fluids, take off the clutch, oil pan, oil pump, water pump, and secondary shaft. Just get the tool for flywheel, or see if a nearby mechanic could loan you one. From what I hear, you can't get the flywheel off without it.

[SabreValkyrn]

I'm not dead!

Ivy (Ninja 200) did get totalled by a gal going 30mph in a parking lot around a blind corner, and target-fixated on me... so I'm 27k miles into a Honda CB500X.

After being severely discouraged by getting her fired up, then destroying the cam chain because of crappy Kawasaki steel... she's back up!

Was able to replace the broken timing chain, re-align TDC, and get valve adjustment screw nuts replaced (all without removing engine or splitting cases). Starter Clutch is still finicky, but she runs! Now I can start cleaning her up and making her street legal/less fugly.

Here's a video of this attempt. https://youtu.be/y3XX-KMP6ZU The first time she's ran in 2 years, and the longest she's run in probably 10 years.

Link to original page on YouTube.

[Alex]

[SabreValkyrn]

Bikebandit prices drastically dropped for the starter clutch. Ordered CLUTCH ASSY,ONEWAY 13193, this will hopefully resolve that stupid starter clutch issue.

She's also dripping oil slowly, so I ordered 3 o-rings for the non-bolt holes in the oil pan, also got 2 spacers for either side of the starter clutch assembly.

[SabreValkyrn]

Started working on Scrappy again.

• Removed oil filter
• Removed oil pan
• Ordered oil pan gasket, current one is ripped
• Removed clutch
• Removed water pump
• Removed secondary shaft
• Removed starter clutch
• Replaced one-way clutch portion of the starter clutch
• Installed oil pump, secondary shaft, starter clutch, clutch, water pump.

Letting oil drain out a bit more, tired of being coated in oil/coolant.

I upgraded to a Corbin seat on my 2014 CB500X, planning on using the stock bench seat on Scrappy.

Remaining TODO for this weekend (keeping myself accountable)
UPDATE1: Removed clutch and water pump, going rest tomorrow when I (hopefully) have another set of hands.

For posterity, you need a 27mm and 30mm socket with an impact wrench, 8/10mm sockets/wrenches, and an EBC Clutch Removal Tool

UPDATE2: Reassembled just about everything, sans clutch cover and oil pan/filter, waiting on gasket.

[SabreValkyrn]

Whole bunch of pictures.

Keyword spam for those poor souls trying to do the same thing as me.
zx600c
Ninja 600R
Starter clutch
sprag
secondary shaft

[SabreValkyrn]

Partially back together...

• Replaced oil pan gasket and rubber washers
• Oil filter back in

Unfortunately, I can't get enough engine resistance to tighten the clutch bolts, on account of not having a chain. I know she runs, so I might bite the bullet and just get the chain and tires ordered.

Next steps

• Procure 1x header collar 92027-1365
• Procure 2x exhaust gasket washer 11009-1866
• Procure chain
• Sanity check valve adjustment nuts
• Verify starter clutch grinding noise is gone

Posted in WTB about collar and gasket: https://www.ninjette.org/forums/show....php?p=1096798

[SabreValkyrn]

Two months ago:

So, I got clutch put back together and started tightening everything back up for the final time!

... broke a clutch basket bolt. So ordered 2 just in case.

Month ago:

Got a torque wrench and using it since this is the (hopefully) final reassembly.

Replaced broken basket bolt, and... broke another clutch basket bolt. Good thing I ordered 2!

Also wanted to check valves to make sure nothing was loose. Everything was fine so I started putting the head cover back and... broke a bolt. Had to take off a camshaft bearing cap to remove the valve cover screw. Finally extracted it and started screwing the camshaft bearing cap back on and... broke another gorram bolt. Tried extracting it but just mangled everything up... luckily there's two ZC600C heads on ebay for ~$80, well one now.

All but the first clutch basket bolt was using a torque wrench.

Got "new" head yesterday, and took Scrappy's borked head off and cleaned everything up a bit.

Will deep clean the ebay head and then re-install... think I'll just tighten without proper torque for this Kawasaki "steel".