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Old September 8th, 2009, 12:36 PM   #161
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mista350z View Post
I used a 10w40. I had a question though. I went to cyclegear to pick up oil and the employee told me not to used synthetic since my engine is still new (5k miles)? He said synthetic doesn't all the lubes needed for new moving parts? also if you go synthetic you cant go back?....Now, I dont care for not being able to go back to regular blend, but is it true not to used synthetic until you have a good amount of miles on the engine? The guy got me into getting a semi-synthetic which he said was better than regular blend but not synthetic. What do you guys recommend?
Here is a link to a thread you might want to read.

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=10346

The subject of oil and when to change it is just like engine break-in; a lot of opinions. I've found there are some basic rules you can follow on this forum and other areas of life.

1. Common sense rules.
2. Examine the source; do they have an "opinion on everything" but only have 50 posts and a brand new first time bike?
3. When it comes to safety there is only one right way.
4. When it comes to the maintenance, it all depends upon how you ride your bike and what you are looking for.
5. If it sounds too good to be true is usually is.

All that said most people will recommend you stay with conventional oil until you have the engine broken in (600-1000 miles). You need the piston rings and cylinder head to mate with each other and that take some "friction" to happen.

Just like in your cage if you have a lot of short rides or are wringing that little engine out to 12.5K a lot you should consider changing the oil and filter more frequently that if you are taking nice long rides and moderate RPMs.

Enjoy and ride safe.
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Old September 22nd, 2009, 03:31 PM   #162
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One thing I'd like to emphasize as somebody who just did their first oil change -- if you're doing it on your sidestand, make sure your drip pan isn't too tall. There isn't a lot of room to work with.
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Old September 24th, 2009, 08:17 PM   #163
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This is for Rage42, since i dont have his email.... he wanted to know what my rotella T bottle looks like!


BTW, i bought mine at a Wal-mart for $19.99 (1 gal. thats 2 oil changes roughly)

hope this helps, if pics arent good enuff... just let me know and ill retake some and update them! OKie?

ttyl

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Old September 24th, 2009, 08:22 PM   #164
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thanks. Couldn't see from kkims pics if there was a motorcycle flavor of rotella. Only found the "truck" stuff at the auto store, and didn't want to buy stuff from the dealer again.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ScorpionNinja View Post
This is for Rage42, since i dont have his email.... he wanted to know what my rotella T bottle looks like!


BTW, i bought mine at a Wal-mart for $19.99 (1 gal. thats 2 oil changes roughly)

hope this helps, if pics arent good enuff... just let me know and ill retake some and update them! OKie?

ttyl

-dave
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Old September 24th, 2009, 08:53 PM   #165
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Old September 24th, 2009, 09:21 PM   #166
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScorpionNinja View Post
This is for Rage42, since i dont have his email.... he wanted to know what my rotella T bottle looks like!


BTW, i bought mine at a Wal-mart for $19.99 (1 gal. thats 2 oil changes roughly)

hope this helps, if pics arent good enuff... just let me know and ill retake some and update them! OKie?

ttyl

-dave
Interesting picture oil and pocketbook. Reminds me of when my wife went to a friends house and helmet was on the stove. He said hey I only eat out and the stove is right by the door so I will never forget my helmet.

Someone above asked if you go syn can you ever use conventional again? I heard you couldn't back a few years ago (due to seals swelling), but can now. Anyone know?
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Old September 26th, 2009, 08:52 AM   #167
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Someone above asked if you go syn can you ever use conventional again? I heard you couldn't back a few years ago (due to seals swelling), but can now. Anyone know?
I'm certain that is a myth. Check out the Mobil 1 website which has a section about synthetic oil myths.

So Mobil 1 which wants to sell you synthetic says it is fine to switch back and forth. Also there are many blends of synthetic and conventional sold. So for me this issue is 100% closed, but of course everyone can draw their own conclusions.

Since the vast majority of high performance cars (including Corvette) come from the factory with Mobil 1, I'm skeptical about the idea of having to wait before using a Synthetic for the 250. But there have been enough people warning about it that I just don't know the answer on that one. I have my doubts though.
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Old October 2nd, 2009, 08:25 PM   #168
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What type of oil is recommended for a bike that's going to be sitting through a Canadian winter in an unheated garage? Is 10w40 good enough or do I need something else? It gets down to the -30c (-22f) range sometimes.
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Old October 2nd, 2009, 08:27 PM   #169
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10w-40 conventional motorcycle oil.
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Old October 2nd, 2009, 08:32 PM   #170
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Thanks! And what size of crush gasket do I need to get?
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Old October 2nd, 2009, 08:34 PM   #171
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Thanks! And what size of crush gasket do I need to get?
sorry, never measured one to give you an exact answer. perhaps someone else can answer that or measure yours when you change the oil
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Old October 3rd, 2009, 08:07 AM   #172
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Originally Posted by Samer View Post
I'm certain that is a myth. Check out the Mobil 1 website which has a section about synthetic oil myths.

So Mobil 1 which wants to sell you synthetic says it is fine to switch back and forth. Also there are many blends of synthetic and conventional sold. So for me this issue is 100% closed, but of course everyone can draw their own conclusions.

Since the vast majority of high performance cars (including Corvette) come from the factory with Mobil 1, I'm skeptical about the idea of having to wait before using a Synthetic for the 250. But there have been enough people warning about it that I just don't know the answer on that one. I have my doubts though.
The no synthetic oil crap during break in is crap. If you're changing oil frequently while the engine is new, syn oil is just too expensive to me to dump out at 100 and 600 mi. marks. You can run syn oil in your brand new engine and you'll be fine. Modern engines using modern materials for rings and cylinders do not rely on wear to seat rings. Ring seating is a function of design, geometry, and mostly cylinder pressures. You don't need or even want rings to wear to seat and they don't need metal-to-metal contact to do it. That's what oil also does, seals the rings BTW. Changing back to dino oil doesn't hurt anything.

Last futzed with by rockNroll; October 3rd, 2009 at 08:16 AM. Reason: I spell bad and added stuff.
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Old October 13th, 2009, 08:25 AM   #173
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Great DIY, kkim! I did my first oil change over the weekend and it was quite easy, thanks to your instructions.

One thing to note, though: The Honda 15410-426-010 filter comes with both O-rings, but the large one is too large in circumference and too thick to fit in the groove. I just ended up re-using my existing O-ring after looking it over for wear and tear.
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Old October 21st, 2009, 06:06 PM   #174
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Would it be ok to reuse the old crush washer once? I'm planning on changing the oil and winterizing in a couple weeks so the bike won't really be used much at all on this oil change.

I already purchased some Shell Rotella T 5w40 and I'm about to order a K&N filter. My other question is (and this may be the wrong thread for it) is it really necessary to change the oil again in the spring? It just doesn't make much sense to me to change out perfectly good oil that has never even been used.
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Old October 21st, 2009, 06:19 PM   #175
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Would it be ok to reuse the old crush washer once? I'm planning on changing the oil and winterizing in a couple weeks so the bike won't really be used much at all on this oil change.
They're technically one use only, so the short answer is no... but for a winterizing change where you'll be changing it again in the spring, I don't see the harm.

I didn't have an extra crush washer available on my last change and just reused the old one, everything's been fine.
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Old October 21st, 2009, 07:15 PM   #176
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You'll get mixed opinions on the crush washer thing. Some will say that as long as you don't ever overtorque it, it will be fine to reuse it. I happen to think it's cheap insurance against potentially costly problems. If you do decide to reuse it, I'd absolutely recommend using a torque wrench.
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Old October 21st, 2009, 07:38 PM   #177
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I will be using a torque wrench but I have no idea if the previous owner did or not so I don't know what condition the crush washer is in. If I have time, I might just stop by the dealer and pick a couple up. I'm still undecided about changing my oil again in the spring so it may be a good idea to change the crush washer now. Is there anything else I need besides the oil, filter with O rings, and the crush washer?
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Old October 21st, 2009, 08:19 PM   #178
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Probably a funnel, a container for your old oil and possibly a cold beer Make sure it's not too tall if you're changing the oil on the sidestand! Er, the container, that is. Although I suppose having too tall of a beer might make bike maintenance difficult...
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Old November 11th, 2009, 05:42 PM   #179
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@kkim:

Thanks so much for this DIY and your help in the winterizing thread. I just completed my first oil change today and it was a breeze. Printed out the PDF of this thread someone created and got it done no sweat! Gave me the confidence to tackle other maitenance things now. Cheers!
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Old November 11th, 2009, 07:23 PM   #180
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glad it helped you.

learning to maintain your bike is a very rewarding experience. start with the easy stuff like oil changes and soon you'll be doing other items that you would normally pay a shop to do. save the money and use it to buy gear and mods!
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Old December 23rd, 2009, 07:57 PM   #181
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Thank you for the DIY. It went to very good use today.
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Old December 24th, 2009, 01:23 AM   #182
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some one's been busy, I see.
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Old December 24th, 2009, 05:06 AM   #183
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some one's been busy, I see.
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Old December 31st, 2009, 01:12 PM   #184
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What do you mean by grommets below? Are you talking about the top and bottom rubber portions of the filter that connect to the washer and cap?

[QUOTE=kkim;13608]
Apply a little engine oil to the grommets on both sides of the filter element and turn and work the filter element into place. Be careful that the element grommets do not slip out of place.
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Old December 31st, 2009, 01:30 PM   #185
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grommets/washers that come already installed in the center hole of the filter. just make sure they are seated well and don't come out.

see the rubber grommet/washer in the center of the filter element?

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Old January 3rd, 2010, 10:17 PM   #186
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grommets/washers that come already installed in the center hole of the filter. just make sure they are seated well and don't come out.

see the rubber grommet/washer in the center of the filter element?
Yup. Understood! Thanks.
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Old January 5th, 2010, 10:25 PM   #187
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Hey guys, quick question - can I re-use the O-rings?
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Old January 5th, 2010, 10:29 PM   #188
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yes, but why would you want to... unless the filter you bought didn't come with replacements?
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Old January 6th, 2010, 12:46 AM   #189
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yes, but why would you want to... unless the filter you bought didn't come with replacements?
Haha yeah. I bought the Kawi filter and it did not come with o-rings.
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Old January 6th, 2010, 01:14 AM   #190
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I know people who have reused the o rings when they purchased the kawi filter and found out it didn't come w/ them. Just make sure to purchase a filter that comes with o rings next time and change them out at your next oil change.
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Old January 16th, 2010, 04:37 PM   #191
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Thank you for this DIY. I just got done with my first oil change!!! Super helpful.
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Old January 19th, 2010, 06:29 PM   #192
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Quote:
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Thanks! And what size of crush gasket do I need to get?
Just recently finished with my oil change and went to a kawa dealer just for the crush washer. They told me it was a 12mm crush washer that is used for our bikes.
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Old January 25th, 2010, 07:27 PM   #193
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Question about the WIX Filters.

Per the WIX website, there appears to be 2 numbers.

http://www.wixfilters.com/filterlookup/motorcycle.asp

EX250 Ninja 250R 250cc (86-89) 24941
http://www.wixfilters.com/filterlook...asp?Part=24941

EX250 Ninja 250R 250cc (90-07) 51358
http://www.wixfilters.com/filterlook...asp?Part=51358

The 51358 appears to be different than the 24941....being that I have an 09 Ninja, I want to be sure I purchase the correct filter.

Also, where do you purchase them from, on-line, local auto or motorcycle shop?

fwiw, I went to my local auto store (Kragens) and they have no listing for the 24941. They found a cross reference # (who knows where they got it from), but it's the wrong filter.

Thanks for any insight, as I am planning for an oil change soon
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Old January 29th, 2010, 01:42 PM   #194
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I've been using the 24941 on my '08 and it fits perfectly. Buying from a very small local store because the chain shops in the area don't carry WIX or anything else I trust.
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Old January 29th, 2010, 01:50 PM   #195
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the 51358 filter you listed most definately will not work in a stock new gen bike.

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Old February 13th, 2010, 09:49 AM   #196
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Thanks for the replies.

Well, sadly, and three weeks later, I finally got the correct WIX filter (special order) from my local auto store. However, it did not come with the small rubber gasket.

Needless to say, looks like I will be looking for elswhere to purchase my WIX filter.
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Old February 18th, 2010, 12:21 PM   #197
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Hmm, couldn't find WIX anywhere, could barely find anythign else than fram and I'm not sure i want to use fram.

Also, some guy that owns a bike shop by me told me not to use 10w-40 as it is very useless and also that I MUST use motorcycle oil or else itll ruin my engine within 100 miles of use because it has a special "additive" but he just kept repeating that so im not sure how much i trust his knowledge.

Should I call the dealer i got my 1st service done with to see what kind of oil they used? I doubt they would have used synthetic correct? cuz i dont want to put conventional oil in if they did.

suggestions? advice? ridicule? ill take anyting
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Old February 18th, 2010, 12:40 PM   #198
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Hmm, couldn't find WIX anywhere, could barely find anythign else than fram and I'm not sure i want to use fram.

Also, some guy that owns a bike shop by me told me not to use 10w-40 as it is very useless and also that I MUST use motorcycle oil or else itll ruin my engine within 100 miles of use because it has a special "additive" but he just kept repeating that so im not sure how much i trust his knowledge.

Should I call the dealer i got my 1st service done with to see what kind of oil they used? I doubt they would have used synthetic correct? cuz i dont want to put conventional oil in if they did.

suggestions? advice? ridicule? ill take anyting
that "some guy" is confusing..... yeah, motorcycle-specific oil is a good thing but a dose of Rotella diesel oil will do ya good too. Just stay away from oils that are "energy conserving." The spew about 10w-40 is just that... 10W-40 oil is fine. When in doubt, use the weight(s) listed in your owner's manual.

Never mind what oil the dealer used... use what you want, be it dino oil or synthetics. If you're havin trouble finding a filter then get/order one from the dealer, get some motorcycle oil and go at it. Have fun!
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Old February 18th, 2010, 08:51 PM   #199
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I got a question. Has anyone picked up any 5w-40 Rotella lately. I was looking around because im due for an oil change soon. Anyways the bottle looked redesigned so I became alert and I looked at the back of the bottle and it said that it was supposed to help fuel economy, which I think means it has additives that are no bueno for a wet clutch system.

If anyone has any more info on this it would be much appreciated.
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Old February 19th, 2010, 05:50 PM   #200
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Mobile 5000 10w-40 and K&N 401 filter. The mobile 5000 shouldnt cause any problems correct?
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