1990 Ninja 600R (ZX600C3) restore thread

[SabreValkyrn]

I rescued a 1990 ZX600C for $160. Timing was perfect on everything.

She screams STOLEN, but has title. I'll get her registered under my name ASAP just to make sure.

The title says 4600 miles, but unknown. Is there any way to guess on engine miles without an instrument cluster?

I've taken a brief look at her and come up with these notes.

• Missing coolant tank
• Drilled out ignition
• No instrument cluster
• Dent(s) in tank
• Torn up seats
• Broken shift lever
• Broken front brake lever
• No headlight
• Old tires (might be original stock tires)
• Squeaky brakes
• Bent right handlebar
• Wiring needs some serious love
• Airbox issues
• No electric start

I'm going to strip her down to frame/engine to do a further inspection. Any suggestions I might not know to look for?

I'm going to probably use Pod filters and Stage 3 jet kit with a 4-to-1 Vance & Hines to get around airbox issues.

[Snake]

That's going to be a great project and at $160..... Pardon the pun but that's a steal.

[SabreValkyrn]

First round:

• Engine freely moves
• Clutch feels good
• Almost all overflow/vaccum lines were capped off
• Fuel in tank was red/pink
• Wiring harness is... unusable
• Petcock doesn't have vaccum functionality
• Drained tank
• Removed carbs (diaphrams seem fine, haven't opened them up yet)
• Removed wiring harness
• Removed airbox
• Removed undertail
• Cleaning countersprocket cover
• Starter motor is very weak when jumped
• Oil didn't seem that bad, but metal filter top was on the bottom of the filter
• Previous owners liked wire nuts.
• Axles seem to squeak heavily
• Drained oil
• Denting on side of cans and radiator, but no scraping; so presumably drop as no speed
• Right handlebar is significantly bent
• No steering stops

I purchased

• Pod filters
• Ignition
• Main wiring harness
• Stage 3 jet kit
• Starter motor

Vance & Hines 4-to-1 arrived today, haven't done anything with it yet.

Have a significant larger pile of "**** I don't care about" than "**** I might need".

Going to clean wheels and brakes tomorrow and get her registered in my name.

Current total bike cost: $648 + tax/shipping

[psych0hans]

That looks like a fun project... Good luck!!!

[SabreValkyrn]

Woot woot. Title registered in my name without a hitch. At least it isn't a salvage nor stolen title.

[SabreValkyrn]

Round 2

• Removed radiator and drained coolant. If a cup of sludge counts as draining coolant
• Removed twin exhaust in prep for 4-to-1
• Removed left passenger foot peg as I no longer need it
• Soaking header parts in degreaser/cleaner
• Drained engine block oil
• Poured some room-temp oil through engine
• Replaced oil filter
• Ordered battery from local mechanic
• Removed most parts off the right handlebar in prep for replacement. Bar end came of really easily. Wat.

She's down to frame, wheels, engine, and coolant hoses.

Starter, pods, wire harness, and ignition should be here within a week.

[c-dog]

This is great!

[CC Cowboy]

Is it done yet?

[SabreValkyrn]

Originally Posted by CC Cowboy

Is it done yet?

Not quite, but I do have exhaust and battery waiting for their friends; starter, air filters, jets, and ignition.

[7oxSin]

any new pics?

[SabreValkyrn]

Originally Posted by 7oxSin

any new pics?

I'll take a pic of her, just for you.

[7oxSin]

Originally Posted by SabreValkyrn

I'll take a pic of her, just for you.

awesome!

[SabreValkyrn]

Originally Posted by 7oxSin

awesome!

Planning to cut the tail and use Ivy's old seat to smooth out the blocky design.

My motorcycle corner.

Ivy.

Pod filters on carbs. I -Really- hope they don't need cleaned. Diaphragms seem very responsive. Just about every bowl screw is stripped.

And wiring harness. That's going to be fun to figure out where everything goes. And the harness I took out was of no help.

I'll try to get the wiring harness routed tomorrow; and hopefully get more parts tomorrow or Saturday.

[SabreValkyrn]

Starter will be here on Tuesday

Jet kit should be here tomorrow

Ignition is here

So, I'm going to work on carbs, valves, wiring, battery mouting, and ignition this weekend.

Carbs involve removing stripped screws, cleaning, jetting, and replacing with new screws. Not looking forward to the first part.

[Klondike1020]

I have an old Gsxr tail and seat you can have if you want to chop it and make it fit . I paid 30 bucks for it back when I was going to street fighter an old Gsx, never used it .

Let me know if you

[SabreValkyrn]

Originally Posted by Klondike1020

I have an old Gsxr tail and seat you can have if you want to chop it and make it fit . I paid 30 bucks for it back when I was going to street fighter an old Gsx, never used it .

Show us some pics I haven't decided on the tail yet; but an actual part is better than DIY with fiberglass mat, wire mesh, an d ABS cement.

[7oxSin]

looks good so far, you going to smooth out that tank with some body filler or anything?

also the cable management shouldn't be too rough just run it on the inside of the frame with a few zip ties.

[SabreValkyrn]

Originally Posted by 7oxSin

looks good so far, you going to smooth out that tank with some body filler or anything?

Planning to. Not sure what I'm going to do about the bedliner coating.

Originally Posted by 7oxSin

also the cable management shouldn't be too rough just run it on the inside of the frame with a few zip ties.

I'm not worried about the routing, just what goes where with abstract images as reference

[7oxSin]

Originally Posted by SabreValkyrn

Planning to. Not sure what I'm going to do about the bedliner coating.



I'm not worried about the routing, just what goes where with abstract images as reference

cant wait to see more! keep up the good work

[SabreValkyrn]

Originally Posted by 7oxSin

cant wait to see more! keep up the good work

Well. I was working on the valves. They are so incredibly too tight. Was tightening/loosening the nuts to try and raise/lower the valve. That's the locker nut btw. The valve adjust bolt is like a 2mm square.

So. My now that piston's valve bolts are extremely loose and there isn't enough thread to get the locknuts back on. Also I can't rotate the engine fully because the valve springs are bent because the vale spring bolt is so loose.

Frick.

Suggestions? Besides going back in time and not kriffing up?

[SabreValkyrn]

Using my super hi-tech valve adjustment device, I was able to tighten the problematic valve into submission. It's going to be a royal pain to adjust all the valves, they're super tight. I'll work on them more tomorrow.

Got the ignition replaced. That was interesting getting the old one off. The head (if there ever was one) was completely ground to a rusty and corroded circle. I was able to get the problematic ignition screws and carb screws out with a extractor bit though.

Carbs are jetted and cleaned. I also have a plan for supporting them, because they won't have airbox boot support.

I'll attempt valves again tomorrow and try to get the wiring harness routed and connected.

[SabreValkyrn]

Valves adjusted.

• 30 minutes in: Why is the head non-standard? (and don't say because Japanese)
  
• 60 minutes in: Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
  
• 90 minutes in: RAWR HULK SMASH!

Next day:

• 15 minutes in: This one is irritating and not working. Let's just move on to the other intakes.
  
• 30 minutes in: Done with all but problematic one
  
• 45 minutes in: First valve set is done
  
• 50 minutes in: exhaust valves done

Put everything back together, sans radiator.

Laid out the wiring harness, got most things; but can't figure out what the following leads go to.

I'll attempt to get the bent handlebar replaced and exhaust mounted tomorrow.

I'm getting the starter on Tuesday, so hopefully I'll have her purring before Wednesday. Or be in lots of sadness and anguish because she either blows up or doesn't start.

[Klondike1020]

So I have a tail fairing like this
W the main seat. No passenger seat or cover

Srad Gsxr
http://www.ebay.co.uk/bhp/suzuki-gsxr-750-srad-fairing

[KawiKid860]

Hey at least they aren't shim under bucket valves haha. My CBR quit starting when it was less than ~70 degrees out and after replacing, checking and adjusting all sorts of FI and electronic stuff that never fixed it, I finally checked the valves and all 8 intakes were so tight they had almost no clearance. My smallest feeler gauge wouldn't fit in a few so I had to guess on what shim size and ended up having to go back and readjust them. Had the cams out 3 times... it wasn't fun. She runs like a top now and it's sooo rewarding knowing the work I put into her fixed all of the problems.

[SabreValkyrn]

Originally Posted by KawiKid860

Hey at least they aren't shim under bucket valves haha.

My buddy has an early 2000 R6. We opened up his valves to adjust them (after adjusting the first ZX600) and were like "NOPE". His bike still runs horribly, but shim things and guesstimating and heck no.

[SabreValkyrn]

Originally Posted by Klondike1020

So I have a tail fairing like this
W the main seat. No passenger seat or cover

Hm, I'll have to pass. Wanting a little more angular than that. Trying to revive the bike from "ugly and blocky" to "less ugly and less blocky".

[Klondike1020]

Srad tail looks nice with a cowl

But that's my opinion

It ain't blocky? Just big
http://ensacarmexico.com/66.php?q=gsxr-750-srad

[SabreValkyrn]

Originally Posted by Klondike1020

It ain't blocky? Just big
http://ensacarmexico.com/66.php?q=gsxr-750-srad

So far, I have no idea what tail you're linking too. An ebay search result that doesn't include the tail section, or a mexican food site?

[Klondike1020]

http://www.bing.com/search?q=srad+ta...12-5&sp=-1&sk=

Maybe this is better ?

I am not handy w the browser on my iPhone

[SabreValkyrn]

Originally Posted by Klondike1020

http://www.bing.com/search?q=srad+ta...12-5&sp=-1&sk=

Maybe this is better ?

Not that it matters anymore, but an actual picture is helpful when trying to sell something. I am capable of doing image searches for "SRAD GXSR", but that tells me nothing about the color, condition, or shape of yours. :-S

[Klondike1020]

- I said you can have it
Therefore I am not selling it haha

It's in storage , so I am not fetching it without good reason lol

But it probably is more trouble than its worth when you can get a nice r1 race tail or something on eBay cheap.

I just thought its a good tail for retro fitting onto other bikes because it is big and wide and very accommodating for fabrication from my point of view

It is used and multiple colors and a tab is broken if I Remeber correctly .

It's basically only good if you want to mess w it. The seat has a couple inch tear in the cover

[SabreValkyrn]

Got the exhaust hung, headers are a pain.

Electrical sorted out, mostly. The battery is sitting on two boxed by the brake pedal.

There was no uncontrolled explosion, but there was no explosion either. The starter ran just fine, I presume the engine was turning as well? Carbs are definitely filled with gas. But no hint of rumble or resistance to the starter motor.

I haven't checked the spark plugs yet. They're a PitA to get out, but it's either them or ignition coils/ignitor, right?

[SabreValkyrn]

After investigating and testing over the past couple weeks (garages are cold), I'm pretty sure the starter clutch is bad.

I'm following this thread to fix it.

Had to take off the exhaust and headers again. Putting headers on alone is problematic, stupid half-circle things. I've taken off the oil pan and clutch cover, stuck on the clutch nut atm.

[SabreValkyrn]

Finally got the tools together to take a crack at the Starter Clutch.

Removed coolant, exhaust, headers, oil pan, clutch, oil pump, and the starter clutch.

The sprag/idler gear itself worked just fine, however; the bushing that connects to the starter clutch gear was not connected. So the starter motor was spinning, rotating an intermediary gear, but not engaging the secondary shaft.

We press-fitted the gear back onto the bushing, put everything back together and same result. The starter spun viciously, but no engine rotation; we pulled off the crank case cover (left side, exposes engine bolt for manual rotation) and no rotation when starter was spinning.

So. We took the exhaust, headers, oil filter, and oil pan off to take a look at the starter clutch gear; it was resting on the secondary shaft. The gear had come off of the bushing again. This seems like a bad thing. I'm pretty sure it's supposed to be a single piece.

Starter motor microfiche and part number 16085.

In the picture, the red circle is surrounding the bushing and starter clutch gear. The gear is sitting on a toothed portion of the secondary shaft. Yellow box contains the bushing that should be attached to the gear.

As a (side?) problem, we're not getting any spark when grounding the spark plug against the frame. Is there some sort of "don't even try sparking if the engine isn't rotating" sensor?

[bruce71198]

Engine must spin to get spark. Are you using an ignition lock cylinder and key to power up the bike?

[SabreValkyrn]

Originally Posted by bruce71198

Engine must spin to get spark. Are you using an ignition lock cylinder and key to power up the bike?

Yes, brand new ignition cylinder that came with keys. Key is on and turns, verified power via horn before trying to start.

The engine is not being rotated by the starter. My guess is the dangling gear off the center shaft is sort of important.

How does... things know the engine is spinning before it tries to spark?

[TnNinjaGirl]

Originally Posted by SabreValkyrn

How does... things know the engine is spinning before it tries to spark?

Crankshaft position sensor

[SabreValkyrn]

Originally Posted by TnNinjaGirl

Crankshaft position sensor

Where does that plug in? The wiring harness the PO had was... wire nutted and covered in eletrical tape in so many places.

I got a used wiring harness, and I think I hooked everything up correctly; but wiring diagrams are difficult to read.

[TnNinjaGirl]

The actual sensor is usually on the right side of the engine cover (sitting on the bike) where you take the cap off to turn the motor over to check the timing/valves, etc..

Give me a sec and I'll check the wiring diagrams

[TnNinjaGirl]

scrrerrcccchhhhh.... back up

This bike has a stator part #59026


Each time the stator passes by the pickup it creates an electrical pulse that travels through a few components and finally to the spark plug(s).