October 31st, 2021, 06:08 PM | #1 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Van
Location: NE Ohio
Join Date: Oct 2021 Motorcycle(s): 2007 Kawasaki 250 Posts: 30
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K&N #KA-2586 Air Filter
Besides modifying the air box cap, does using this air filter require any carb re-jetting or anything like that? Does anyone have any experience with this filter?
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November 1st, 2021, 10:10 AM | #2 |
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MOTY - 2018, MOTM - Nov '17
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No changes needed for stock performance.
For improved power, typically want to downsize main-jets couple sizes for more power (to compensate for super-rich top-end) And shim needles about 1.5-2.0mm to make up for leaner mid-range. Last futzed with by DannoXYZ; November 6th, 2021 at 02:38 PM. |
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November 1st, 2021, 10:31 AM | #3 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Van
Location: NE Ohio
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downsize mains couple sizes ??
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November 1st, 2021, 12:10 PM | #4 |
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Yup, factory jetting is super-rich, too much fuel for safety. Makes for smoother-running engine with less than max-power possible. No OEM manufacturer would ever tune for max-power, that's crazy and opens them for major liability.
In event you get bad petrol from station out in boonies. Or riding on super hot day or radiator clogs or leaks and overheats. Or have clogged carbs from sitting. You'll end up running lean, not sufficient fuel, and end up blowing headgasket, or punching holes in pistons. So factory jetting is always too rich for safety rather than leaner for max-power. It's typically in 10.0-11.0:1 AFR range whereas max-power occurs at 13.5:1 for NA engines. So to extract more power, you'd lean out WOT mixtures by using smaller main jets. Remember that '60s hot-rod saying... |
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November 6th, 2021, 06:58 AM | #5 | |
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Quote:
That all depend on altitude as factory jetting is not always super-rich that is why EFI is more superior as it can correct for those variables There many thing but typically AFR is around 12.5:1 to highside 13.5:1 as there are a lot of other factor that come in to play from Cam to Head Chamber Shape as well as Compression Ratio and even right to Timing Curve. 10.0-11.0:1 AFR range in more inline for E85 |
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November 6th, 2021, 12:52 PM | #6 |
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MOTY - 2018, MOTM - Nov '17
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We need to look at specific models and their factory configurations. Ninja 250 is super-rich in OEM trim. Nowhere is it leaner than 11.8 and mostly in 10-11.0 range under WOT. Ignore beginning of this chart as it's recording delay of slides when throttle is 1st opened. This bike actually has snorkel removed and K&N filter for more air-flow and it'll still way too rich.
It's so rich, that brand-new plugs look like this on stock street bike after 20-min session on track. Not many people use constant WOT very often, other than starting from red-light or getting on freeway. You're missing out on A LOT of power with that much fuel. Both these bikes were on track within same hour. Compared to my track 250 with full Tyga exhaust and free-flow filter (right). It's got 22% more flow than stock and +22% more power AND it has 2-sizes smaller main-jets than stock. Not to mention the DynoJet needles are thicker at tip than stock to reduce high-end fuel even more. So my track bike is effectively running 3-sizes smaller jets along with all of the higher flow upgrades compared to street bike. SportRider - Racing on the Cheap - scroll down to "The Nuts and Bolts" section on dyno-tuning. With Area-P full-exhaust, they flowed 18% more air and made +18% more power than stock AND went from factory 98 main-jets down to 95. Area-P exhaust makes about 1-hp less than Tyga. Last futzed with by DannoXYZ; November 6th, 2021 at 02:57 PM. |
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November 6th, 2021, 01:09 PM | #7 |
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Even Ninja 250FI model is programmed with rich top-end. Not as bad as carby models, but can still use some leaning out for more power. Notice erratic AFR curve on stock bike. Just reducing fuel to more optimal flat 13.5 AFR picks up torque and power across board. That's +14% more power with no upgrades, just reducing fuel.
Note that bone-stock EFI 250 with just remapped fuel makes more power than intake-upgraded carby 250. When upgraded with full-exhaust, free-flow intake and dyno-tuned, EFI models ends up with +5hp more than carby model with exact same mods. Last futzed with by DannoXYZ; November 6th, 2021 at 02:34 PM. |
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November 9th, 2021, 11:58 AM | #8 |
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On my stock bike it reading lean on plugs with 35 Pilot Jet and 105 Main jet with stock exhaust as just clean out carb today to rid some junk and install new fuel petcock rebuild kit
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November 9th, 2021, 01:04 PM | #9 |
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MOTM - Nov '18, Mar '17
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your '07 should have a 38 pilot, no?
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November 9th, 2021, 01:33 PM | #10 |
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November 9th, 2021, 02:20 PM | #11 |
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Any chance it's running lean due to partially clogged carbs like mine was when I got it?
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November 9th, 2021, 02:57 PM | #12 | |
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Quote:
I have get a smaller drill kit in order to remove those dumb cap next time . Waiting on the upper fiberglass fairing to get here so I get start on prepping painting for all body parts and still haven't decided on a color maybe orange or lime green. Last futzed with by shspvr; November 9th, 2021 at 04:00 PM. |
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November 9th, 2021, 04:28 PM | #13 |
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Aside from resetting the screw adjustments.......you've neglected a critical carb passageway there.
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November 9th, 2021, 04:59 PM | #14 |
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Yes, no wonder it's running on leaner side. Pilot jet has numerous lateral bleed holes that needs to be poked out with wire. Same with pilot bleed-hole in carb-venturi, needs to be poked backwards from there..
BTW, did you poke out all lateral bleed holes in emulsion tube too? Ultrasonic soak? Micro soda-blast? Again, no need to ever increase jet-sizes on these bikes. They ran perfect when leaving showroom floor. The only thing that changed over time is carbs got dirty and clogged. So.. obvious fix is to reverse that process by properly cleaning them until they are factory-fresh clean. If bike doesn't run like brand-new off showroom floor, then carbs aren't factory-fresh clean. Simple. Last futzed with by DannoXYZ; November 9th, 2021 at 08:11 PM. |
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November 9th, 2021, 05:09 PM | #15 |
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Ture as I still need a drill bit to remove those caps at time as I try to get ready for motorcycle license test and inspection that or I would to wait in tell next year so mad dosh to get every work you know light turn and horn and so on I made the bike run well enough and pass the written and drive test .
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November 9th, 2021, 07:07 PM | #16 |
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having replacement pilot screw orings on hand may be a wise idea as well.
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November 10th, 2021, 03:42 AM | #17 |
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November 10th, 2021, 04:22 AM | #18 | |
ninjette.org guru
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Quote:
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November 10th, 2021, 07:22 AM | #19 |
ninjette.org certified postwhore
Name: AKA JacRyann
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MOTY - 2018, MOTM - Nov '17
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What a deal!!! That's amazing! I picked up pair of 2002 and 2003 for similar price from storage-auction. But they were bare frames and parts in boxes needed to be assembled. A ninjette jigsaw puzzle!
Dried petrol fragments hang around as chads on inside of pilot after poking lateral holes. Then they get picked up by petrol flow and clog bleed hole in carb venturi. Soda blasting clears out hanging chads. Also need to poke out bleed hole in carb venturi as well. |
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November 10th, 2021, 08:34 AM | #20 | |
ninjette.org guru
Name: Anthony
Location: Vinita, Ok
Join Date: Sep 2021 Motorcycle(s): 07 Kawasaki Ninja 250 Posts: 343
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Quote:
Odd one pilot screw was only set 3/4 of turn on cyl 2 clutch side the other 2 1/2 on cyl 1 mag side What the stock Pilot Screws setting True there but I'm gone to using a pressurized solvent on pilot passage base on N4MWD's blog on Secret Ninja 250 Carburetor Passages Got her back to together running much better and set both Pilot Screws 2 1/2 for now then the rain come ah rats guest I have re-sync the carb some other day and address the idle Last futzed with by shspvr; November 10th, 2021 at 07:26 PM. |
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