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Old December 2nd, 2021, 06:56 PM   #201
DannoXYZ
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Uhh, what did you do to remove WD-40 from your brake system???

Before utilising DOT-5, brake system should be clean enough that you can lick it!
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Old December 2nd, 2021, 07:46 PM   #202
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You're going to put the system together without cleaning out the caliper and replacing the rubber parts?
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Old December 2nd, 2021, 07:48 PM   #203
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DannoXYZ View Post
Uhh, what did you do to remove WD-40 from your brake system???

Before utilising DOT-5, brake system should be clean enough that you can lick it!
At least WD-40 is all non-polar stuff. But I agree... I would have cleaned it with something like Varsol (mineral spirits) and then dried it, rather than WD-40 with all its oil.
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Old December 2nd, 2021, 08:32 PM   #204
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Well, yah ! wd-40 is oily.... that's better on the rubber parts than say carburetor cleaner......
I do have a can of quick start I can sprey in there but i figure that's hard on the "O" rings.... but the quick start will evaporate completely...
... think of wd-40 as kerosene but in a more convenient form. <Grin>
....
I may well regret it but I'll give it a shot and see if it works !
....
I can't clean it any better without tearing it completely apart so it's good enough for who it's for !
....
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Old December 3rd, 2021, 02:05 AM   #205
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Don't worry about rubbers as long as you're not using any petroleum-based cleaners. Brake-fluids of all types contains conditioners and lube for rubbers.

You really want to use 100% isopropyl alcohol or denatured alcohol to clean out brake system before going to DOT-5. Alcohol dissolves glycol-based DOT-3/4 fluids to thoroughly clean system and not leave any trace compounds behind that'll contaminate fresh DOT-5.
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Old December 3rd, 2021, 05:45 AM   #206
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Sorry I didn't back to you on this thread the correct way to do it is use 99.9% isopropyl alcohol or denatured alcohol after blowing out as much of the DOT 3/4 fluid. I use a large syringe and flush line and caliper until they are free of all the old fluid. Drain and flush the master cylinder. Blow out everything to dry. Add the new and slowly bleed the line and make sure the new fluid is coming out clear from caliper.

I know some people seem to have issues with DOT 5. I did not understand why until one day I saw this one guy "help" bleed a brake system. He pumped up the master so quickly and forcefully pressing the brake pedal to the floor about 20 times and every time he wanted the other person to open the bleeder. He was making foam action in the master cylinder better than the food industry making whipped cream , you have to be slow and very patient with DOT 5.
That why you can't use DOT 5 in ABS system because of its rapid pulsation piston it creates air bubbles in the ABS module.

I highly recommend rebuild the master cylinder and caliper if it at leases 15 years on DOT-3/4 any way, but I have seen it done with-out rebuild the brake system.

Oh P.S. All DOT 3, 4 & 5.1 are already synthetic blend don't pay any attention to marketing labeling with the word "synthetic" BS.
As for DOT 4 Plus it turns out its it was going be label as DOT 4.5 but end up become DOT 5.1 as a better more refined version for ABS systems.

I recommend you Read this about Bake Line Hose especially if they're more than 12/15 years old there already pass their life expectancy due to the way their construction and material used.
I also recommend replacing with an OEM part or if want with better longer lasting Braided Lines Hose made by Galfer, Venhill, HEL or EBC they should last way pass 30+ years due to the way their construction and material used.

Here is an explanation why hydraulic driven brake switches fail at inconvenient times, it has nothing to do with DOT 5 fluid.
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Old December 3rd, 2021, 06:00 AM   #207
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DannoXYZ View Post
Don't worry about rubbers as long as you're not using any petroleum-based cleaners. Brake-fluids of all types contains conditioners and lube for rubbers.

You really want to use 100% isopropyl alcohol or denatured alcohol to clean out brake system before going to DOT-5. Alcohol dissolves glycol-based DOT-3/4 fluids to thoroughly clean system and not leave any trace compounds behind that'll contaminate fresh DOT-5.
DON'T used isopropyl alcohol that is label as 99% as it contained 1% water be sure it labels as 99.9% or 100%
Actually, it doesn't dissolve glycol-based DOT-3/4 or 5.1 it bonds it alcohol
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Old December 3rd, 2021, 09:23 AM   #208
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OOOK ! thanks guys sense I've never before did a brake system to this extent ( I've done a 1968 dodge truck but that's different !)
I'll defer to your knowledge !
Now where can I get this denatured alcohol or Isorbical Alcohol that is that strong AT ?
Last time I bought Denatured Alcohol i found it at a well supplied pharmacy.
I bought a "Turkey baster" a while back so I have a syringe ( if I can find it)
....
I suppose I should wait for a rear caliper rebuild kit and at the very least replace the rubbers in the rear caliper that is only reasonable the rubber is way past it's useable life after all this time after all .
....
It's too cold to ride now anyway I just as well do it right ! what's a few more weeks in the shop right ?
....
later all !
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Old December 3rd, 2021, 09:29 AM   #209
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shspvr View Post
Sorry I didn't back to you on this thread the correct way to do it is use 99.9% isopropyl alcohol or denatured alcohol after blowing out as much of the DOT 3/4 fluid. I use a large syringe and flush line and caliper until they are free of all the old fluid. Drain and flush the master cylinder. Blow out everything to dry. Add the new and slowly bleed the line and make sure the new fluid is coming out clear from caliper.

I know some people seem to have issues with DOT 5. I did not understand why until one day I saw this one guy "help" bleed a brake system. He pumped up the master so quickly and forcefully pressing the brake pedal to the floor about 20 times and every time he wanted the other person to open the bleeder. He was making foam action in the master cylinder better than the food industry making whipped cream , you have to be slow and very patient with DOT 5.
That why you can't use DOT 5 in ABS system because of its rapid pulsation piston it creates air bubbles in the ABS module.

I highly recommend rebuild the master cylinder and caliper if it at leases 15 years on DOT-3/4 any way, but I have seen it done with-out rebuild the brake system.

Oh P.S. All DOT 3, 4 & 5.1 are already synthetic blend don't pay any attention to marketing labeling with the word "synthetic" BS.
As for DOT 4 Plus it turns out its it was going be label as DOT 4.5 but end up become DOT 5.1 as a better more refined version for ABS systems.

I recommend you Read this about Bake Line Hose especially if they're more than 12/15 years old there already pass their life expectancy due to the way their construction and material used.
I also recommend replacing with an OEM part or if want with better longer lasting Braided Lines Hose made by Galfer, Venhill, HEL or EBC they should last way pass 30+ years due to the way their construction and material used.

Here is an explanation why hydraulic driven brake switches fail at inconvenient times, it has nothing to do with DOT 5 fluid.
The Brake lines were just replaced by the previous owner as the old ones developed cracks so he replaced both the front and rear.
they aren't the braded steel covered like I'd like, but they are NEW.
so they'll do...
....
I gott'a run to Redding today ( ugh!)
so I gott'a get moving !
later all !
Bob......
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Old December 3rd, 2021, 09:33 AM   #210
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Originally Posted by Bob KellyIII View Post
The Brake lines were just replaced by the previous owner as the old ones developed cracks so he replaced both the front and rear.
they aren't the braded steel covered like I'd like, but they are NEW.
so they'll do...
....
I gott'a run to Redding today ( ugh!)
so I gott'a get moving !
later all !
Bob......
That fine then they won't swell like old ones do
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Old December 3rd, 2021, 09:38 AM   #211
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Originally Posted by Bob KellyIII View Post
OOOK ! thanks guys sense I've never before did a brake system to this extent ( I've done a 1968 dodge truck but that's different !)
I'll defer to your knowledge !
Now where can I get this denatured alcohol or Isorbical Alcohol that is that strong AT ?
Last time I bought Denatured Alcohol i found it at a well supplied pharmacy.
I bought a "Turkey baster" a while back so I have a syringe ( if I can find it)
....
I suppose I should wait for a rear caliper rebuild kit and at the very least replace the rubbers in the rear caliper that is only reasonable the rubber is way past it's useable life after all this time after all .
....
It's too cold to ride now anyway I just as well do it right ! what's a few more weeks in the shop right ?
....
later all !
Bob.........
Denatured Alcohol must local hardware store carry it like Lowes, Home Depot
same with Isorbical Alcohol
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Old December 3rd, 2021, 11:18 PM   #212
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well I got the new master cylinder on but I don't like the hose clamp going to the resivour on the bottom end it's making the hose wrinkle slightly as it's tightened so I'll get a tiny hose clamp or two... sense it's not under pressure it could probably do fine with no hose clamps at all... but I'll put some on it so it can't come off .
....
I ordered a rebuild kit for the rear caliper guys ! so I'll do a rebuild on the rear caliper when the parts arrive.
....
with that done there will be no need to use the alcohol to clean it out as I will have done all the cleaning necessary already as the only thing Not new is the 2 brake lines in the rear.... and those are clean already...
the reservoir is new the line from the reservoir to the master cylinder is new the master cylinder is new and the line from the master cylinder to the caliper is already cleaned
and I will rebuild/clean the rear caliper soon.... so it is getting closer to being done.
....
i'll probably put the rear wheel back on tomorrow ( it's still leaning against the lathe !)
....
then it will be time to get it out of the shop and get the Ninja in there !
i have 3 things I want to do to the Ninja....
1. adjust the valves ( I have the shims and good calipers now.)
2. clean the carburetors.
3. put on the back luggage rack i got for it about 3 months ago ! LOL...
....
later all
Bob.......
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Old December 4th, 2021, 05:34 AM   #213
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Originally Posted by Bob KellyIII View Post
well I got the new master cylinder on but I don't like the hose clamp going to the resivour on the bottom end it's making the hose wrinkle slightly as it's tightened so I'll get a tiny hose clamp or two... sense it's not under pressure it could probably do fine with no hose clamps at all... but I'll put some on it so it can't come off .
....
I ordered a rebuild kit for the rear caliper guys ! so I'll do a rebuild on the rear caliper when the parts arrive.
....
with that done there will be no need to use the alcohol to clean it out as I will have done all the cleaning necessary already as the only thing Not new is the 2 brake lines in the rear.... and those are clean already...
the reservoir is new the line from the reservoir to the master cylinder is new the master cylinder is new and the line from the master cylinder to the caliper is already cleaned
and I will rebuild/clean the rear caliper soon.... so it is getting closer to being done.
....
i'll probably put the rear wheel back on tomorrow ( it's still leaning against the lathe !)
....
then it will be time to get it out of the shop and get the Ninja in there !
i have 3 things I want to do to the Ninja....
1. adjust the valves ( I have the shims and good calipers now.)
2. clean the carburetors.
3. put on the back luggage rack i got for it about 3 months ago ! LOL...
....
later all
Bob.......
Have ever done brake caliper ?
If going rebuild caliper, then don't need to use alcohol just reg brake cleaner will do as your put in new seal.
The alcohol is used for flush out the old and change over to DOT 5 fluid

Dose your kit come with new piston ?, I hope for love of god you didn't used any kind of sandpaper or used scotch brite on the piston.

After you get caliper disassembled
1: Used scotch brite with WD-40 to clean out the cylinder bore or 1500 or higher grit sandpaper with WD-40 litely done then clean with brake cleaner.
2: Used nylon brush on aluminum calipers if it is a steel caliper use brass or steel brush to clean brake fluid the cross over passages.
3: If going reused the piston used a cotton wheel buffer to polish the piston with chrome polish.
4: For Brake Cylinder Assembly that be Brake fluid itself or McKay Assembly Lube or ATE Brake Assembly Lube and supposedly, but I would recommend it and I never try Red Rubber Grease.
5: You should have small O-ring that goes between the two-caliper half put a dab of brake fluid on O-ring.
6: For Caliper slide you used Permatex Ceramic Extreme Brake Parts Lubricant its purple stuff only your are pin type.

Last futzed with by shspvr; December 4th, 2021 at 07:16 AM.
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Old December 4th, 2021, 08:20 AM   #214
Bob KellyIII
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I think I've done a few calipers in my time, twas a long time ago however !
but nothing like these things.. these are closer akin to a car disk brakes than any motorcycle disk brake that I have ever seen ...
they do disassemble...and come apart... I remember on the early Yamaha DT1 250cc the front disk did not come apart and separate which makes it a pain to rebuild... but welding vice grips clamps make quick work of those.
....
I've done more calipers than I have Master cylinders all in all.
....
but like everything else ..it's mechanical... I can fix it ! i'm quite confident in that. the manual goes into a good description on how to rebuild the thing.
....
I'll pick up a can of brake cleaner sprey next time I am in town, as all I have is carb cleaner here and WD-40.
....
I put on around 300 miles yesterday in the Honda CRV and I'm still a bit tired from that..... LOL it sucks getting old ! I remember driving from Redding to port townsend washington in one setting only stopping to eat
a few times.... but there is no way I'ed even attempt that now days !
yet alone going from here to Florida like we did once ! UGH !
....
Bob.......
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Old December 4th, 2021, 08:54 AM   #215
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Redding has that cool Sundial Bridge!!! Stopped by there once on way Portland.
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Old December 4th, 2021, 09:46 AM   #216
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Yah... but it get's hotter there in the summer than anywhere else on the planet ! ...too hot for me anyway... I grew up in the Redding area from 5yrs old to 19 years old or so and moved back to the ranch several times after that.
Shasta county however is managed extremely POORLY now they've raised building permits to where only the extremely rich can afford to build and tax the heck out of everyone for county taxes .... and what do they do with all that money ? they put palm trees in the center of the road so it looks nice ! there's got to be 100 trees they put in and you know that the cost of just one palm tree has got to be over $50k each.... so what do they do to get that money ?
they tell the residents that you are in violation of the new county code and unless you pay $25,000 to us we will take your property and re sell it.
... that is why I left there, those thieves deserve a natural disaster if anyone ever did !
Shasta County has the "we will help you weather you need it or not" syndrome.... and it's gotten worse over the years... move in there at your peril ! they want everything to look like down town with curbs ,sidewalks and mowed lawns.... and a Ranch does not fit into their vision !
so they will take it away from you if you give them long enough....
we didn't, we sold first !
...
their the typical Big fish in a little pond.... not a place you want to be!
......
it should be criminal for anyone to force their views upon someone else yet that is what we have in America ... everyone trying to do just that !
... it's no longer a live and let live idea.... it's lets force them to live the way we want them too....
....
anyway.....
I'm going to try and get the back tire on the triumph today....
although it will be a bit later today there is a heavy frost on the ground right now !.... Brrrrrrr !.
.....
Bob......
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Old December 4th, 2021, 04:22 PM   #217
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LOL... not a large task for a young man, but I had to have help to do it !
( putting the rear tire back on )
LOL..... I couldn't push through the axle and line up the spedo stuff at the same time... so I got my Kid to help ! zip zip and it went right in... ( I thought about putting the axle in from the other direction so I could do it myself but ...
decided against that as the nut would be on the left side and have to be pulled up from the back to unscrew it... the way it is now I can stand on the wrench and push down !
.....
my Dot 5 brake fluid came today... tomorrow is supposed to be the new air filters that were incredibly expensive ! ...but It'll be next week before the Caliper rebuild kit get's here.... so I'm just poking around today finding stuff to do !.
the wife has a long list of stuff she wants done even though I got one of them off the list early this morning... (TV in bedroom) and it works !
....so I'm killing time till I can work more on the Triumph !
....
Not much snow on the north west side of the big mountain now,
but we don't normally get alot of snow till january
....
Bob......
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Old December 6th, 2021, 08:43 PM   #218
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Yep... the air filters came today....so the Triumph will have fresh air filters for the first time in decades ! at $45.00 a whack it will be decades before she gets any new ones again !
.....
I'm wanting to just put the brake caliper on and go for it without replacing all the seals but I know better.....I am sure it would work but it is better to wait and do the job right and then not have to mess with it for a long time.......but the temptation is sure there ! LOL...
.... I'll probably pull the calliper apart tomorrow and see what it looks like inside...
i may have alot to do inside there to make it function again ! ....I hope not though.
....
Bob....
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Old December 7th, 2021, 04:08 AM   #219
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Yep... the air filters came today....so the Triumph will have fresh air filters for the first time in decades ! at $45.00 a whack it will be decades before she gets any new ones again !
.....
I'm wanting to just put the brake caliper on and go for it without replacing all the seals but I know better.....I am sure it would work but it is better to wait and do the job right and then not have to mess with it for a long time.......but the temptation is sure there ! LOL...
.... I'll probably pull the calliper apart tomorrow and see what it looks like inside...
i may have alot to do inside there to make it function again ! ....I hope not though.
....
Bob....
As the Brits would say crack on
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Old December 8th, 2021, 12:58 PM   #220
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Ok here's a bit of info... the rebuild kit for the rear caliper is supposed to arrive today... yesterday I took the rear caliper apart only to find I could not get the pistons out.... so I cleaned it up a bit with the wire brush and got all the dirt off of it and re assembled it.
I came back inside and watched as many videos on how to rebuild a caliper on a motorcycle on youtube and discovered that is a common problem and most guys use compressed air to pop the pistons out.... I have a compressor and could do that fairly easy I think.... HOWEVER.... if there is nothing wrong with it WHY do it ? leave the thing alone ! if in the future it leaks then by all means rebuild the thing... but it is likely to last 100k miles in it's current state, or could last 1 mile it's impossible to say if I am looking for reasurance rebuilding it is not the answer..... because you don't know if the new seals are any better than the old seals.... it works leave the thing alone !!!!
..... I rebuilt a 1968 Dodge truck master cylinder 2 times it was leaking and sucking air so I pulled it off and rebuilt it... I bought the cheapest rebuild kit I could find and it lasted about a week and started leaking again...
( there was no scoring in the master cylinder at all ! )
this time I went to Napa auto parts and bought a quality (expensive ) rebuild kit and rebuilt it yet again ... put it in there and blead the system and as far as I know it's still working fine....
so that's the delima... how do I know that rebuilding the caliper is the smart thing to do at this point? it supposedly works fine now.... why tempt fate?
... I am just going to re install the caliper bleed the system and see if there are any leaks if the caliper leaks then I will rebuild it ... if it doesn't and I can get it to work real good I will just use it the way it is.....
... don't get me wrong, I believe in preventive maintenance, but this falls into the category of just replacing it because you can , not because there is a need.... so I am going to leave it alone .
....
so the next step is re install everything and bleed the system and get it working....
.....
I picked up a small 1500watt shop heater for the shop to replace my ageing
heater of the same type ( so I actually have spare parts !) at walmart yesterday.... and yes it warms the shop alot better !!!!!
....
so today is re assemble the bike ! I am tired of playing with it !
....
Bob..........
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Old December 8th, 2021, 01:29 PM   #221
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I'd take it apart and rebuild it because it could easily have gotten moisture in it, and the piston and/or the bore could be corroding. There could also be crystallized glop in there that will clog the line at some point. Also, if the piston(s) don't move freely, you could get that caliper dragging and overheating. And even if all else is OK, old rubber could start to leak at any time.
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Old December 8th, 2021, 02:38 PM   #222
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^^ Jim's right. Then again, I am of the same mindset when it comes to fork seals. 40k+ miles on my SV and as far as I know they're original to the bike. I've had the forks apart for springs and fluid flushes many times; never touched the fork seals. They work.
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Old December 8th, 2021, 02:45 PM   #223
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Yup, what Jim said. Make effort to disassemble caliper for proper rebuild:

1. remove gunk that'll contaminate your fresh new DOT-5 fluid
2. replace seal
3. polish away any corroded spots

This will ensure piston won't bind in future and cause you problems. Or leak... or overheat...
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Old December 8th, 2021, 03:04 PM   #224
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I'd take it apart and rebuild it because it could easily have gotten moisture in it, and the piston and/or the bore could be corroding. There could also be crystallized glop in there that will clog the line at some point. Also, if the piston(s) don't move freely, you could get that caliper dragging and overheating. And even if all else is OK, old rubber could start to leak at any time.
Hay Jim ! you nailed the major concern I have on this thing.....
but I have the unit on there now and it seams to be trying to work.... but I must still have air in the system as the peddle is not firm it goes to the downward stop every time.... ( only a 2" travel by the way)
.....this dot 5 brake fluid is purple ! strange !!!
i pumped it and got out all the air but the peddle is not firm so I assume that I don't have all the air out even though no more air is bleeding out... so it looks like I have to try a few tricks that I saw on youtube and that means taking the axle part way out to let the caliper swing up... the idea is to get the caliper higher than the Master cylinder so the air bubbles will dislodge and flow out. ....I'll try that and see.
..... I may well regret not rebuilding it while I had it out... and I expect I probably will... but I'll cross that bridge when I come to it.
.... getting all the air out of it is the hard part now !
the new master cylinder seams to be working great by the way... I pumped it slowly and it took at least 3 maybe 4 reservoirs full to fill that system.
.... I had to take a break and give it a rest for a while as my knees were killing me ! lack of room makes working on it low like that a real P.I.T.A. !
.....
the Tire on the back of this bike is obviously as wide as you can fit in there
which isn't really all that great as there were rubbing marks on the master cylinder holder where it was run for a while out of alignment. with it properly aligned it's got about 1/4" clearance is all... there are NO Marks on the adjustment places on the rear swingarm by the axle.... I thought all bikes had them but this one don't ! so it makes adjustment a bit more tricky....
but if I adjust it to where the tire clears the MC by 1/4" i am spot on... LOL...
....
later !
Bob........
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Old December 8th, 2021, 03:31 PM   #225
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Master may not be sealing if pedal is moving that much. Simple test:

1. unbolt hose from master
2. install bolt to block outlet
3. push pedal now.

If it still drops, then master seal is not sealing.
If it's firm, then something downstream isn't sealing, perhaps caliper.
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Old December 8th, 2021, 08:01 PM   #226
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Thanks Danno ! but I got it !
I decided to tilt the caliper like the manual said.... and try it..... and son of a gun the manual was actually right ! imagine that !!!! LOL
i forgot to put something between the brake pads but they met in the center and stopped like they should have....( the brake shoes are practically new)
.... so, with the caliper pointing straight down and the bleeder straight up
I tried bleeding it again and I got 2 big air bubbles out of it and then the peddle was firm.... no sponginess at all.... I spread the brake shoes apart with a screw driver and slipped the caliper back into place and buttoned everything down added a tiny amount of brake fluid to the reservoir and tried it again.... it was still like I left it , in about 1/2" travel it is hard so that is as it should be !
.... I will definately test the brakes when I get it back on the road ...I should be able to lock up each wheel independently .... and they should release and not drag on the rotors ... the back brake is releasing fine , but I want to test locking up the rear wheel and see if it releases after that....it should !
....now it's just re assembly and then take it for a spin.
so lots of progress here today..... I should have it all back together tomorrow at this time... but the weatherman is calling for snow all week and I doubt I will try riding the triumph in the snow !
....
i have the mufflers off the one side plate off on the right side and the tank off
I'll get all that back on there, then I can take it off the lift and move it into the yard !
....then I can shuffle the bikes.... put the Ninja in the shop and put the Triumph where the Ninja now sits in the shed.... but if it snows that ain't going to happen !......I'll be keeping the pellet stove company !
....
later all !
Bob.......
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Old December 8th, 2021, 08:07 PM   #227
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Good job!
Front brakes are even worse due to height differences. A lot of times, I'll remove front-calipers and hold them above master so they'd bleed properly!

I drove by this sign while back on way to Vancouver, BC.
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Old December 8th, 2021, 08:22 PM   #228
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I'll remember that ! but that might be near impossible to do on this triumph !
as the hose is short and the handle bars high ....
I want to flush the front real well with the methylated spirits, that the manual calls for... I have no idea what that stuff is ...it's probably a fancy name for paint thinner ! or kerosene LOL
..... I want to get that Dot 3 brake fluid out of the front brake system before it does any more damage !
....while I am at it I will see if I can fix the front brake light switch too.
( I gott'a remember I unplugged that switch in the headlight !)
.... so if I don't get the Triumph out of the shop before it snows I still have stuff to do on it ! LOL
anyway the Triumph is almost ready to go ....
and that feels good !
....
Bob......
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Old December 8th, 2021, 08:32 PM   #229
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Methylated spirits is proper English for denatured alcohol. Basically ethanol that's been tainted to prevent human consumption.

Better to use 100% isopropyl alcohol as you know what you're getting. Due to lax U.S. regulations, denatured alcohol often has less than 50% ethanol and you have no idea what else is in there.
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Old December 8th, 2021, 08:38 PM   #230
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OH....OK thanks Danno !
that's a pharmacy item around these parts I think , or hardware store.
....
Bob.........
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Old December 8th, 2021, 08:42 PM   #231
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Danno ! next time you drive by let me know and I'll buy you a coffee at the hi- low restaurant ! HAHAHAHA !
....
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Old December 9th, 2021, 03:31 PM   #232
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I'll remember that ! but that might be near impossible to do on this triumph !
as the hose is short and the handle bars high ....
I want to flush the front real well with the methylated spirits, that the manual calls for... I have no idea what that stuff is ...it's probably a fancy name for paint thinner ! or kerosene LOL
..... I want to get that Dot 3 brake fluid out of the front brake system before it does any more damage !
....while I am at it I will see if I can fix the front brake light switch too.
( I gott'a remember I unplugged that switch in the headlight !)
.... so if I don't get the Triumph out of the shop before it snows I still have stuff to do on it ! LOL
anyway the Triumph is almost ready to go ....
and that feels good !
....
Bob......
The best way to do front brake is with one way check valve tube bleeding tool kit and brake bleeder syringe by forcing the fluid up hill.
A Vacuum Pump works to, to a point
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Old December 9th, 2021, 04:50 PM   #233
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Boy putting that Triumph back together was a real job.... you wouldn't think it would be that hard but everything fought me ! after I got the exhaust pipes back on it and cinched down I went to the air box I had off on the right side...
I got the idea of fixing the bolt that spins now when your trying to take the air box off, by cutting deeper threads in the bolt and put a nut on it instead of the spring clip that they had.... using my new tap and die set was a real pleasure
I have to admit...it's a Klutch set that set me back about 100 bucks but so far it is working great, reviews say the ratcheting die holder gives out but I haven't had any problems at all with it.
anyway I put that bolt in there and put the nut I had to re cut the threads into to match it.... and then tightened it down and now it doesn't turn !
however doing that meant I had to enlarge the hole in the air filter metal plate
to go over the nut... so the filter would sit flush... once I did that it was ready to go on.... there is NOTHING to hold the air filter in place as your trying to get the cover on and it wants to fall off and out of there after about an hour of fussing with it I got it close and went and got the bent nose needle nose plyers grabbed the filter and pulled up slightly and click it went in and the cover was finally flush ! ....
so it's all together but the gas tank and I'll go back out there in a bit and put it on and take it off the floor jack !
then fire it up ! the rear brake worked great on the first stab after sitting all night so it's good to go !
....
Bob.......
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Old December 9th, 2021, 04:53 PM   #234
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Boy putting that Triumph back together was a real job.... you wouldn't think it would be that hard but everything fought me ! after I got the exhaust pipes back on it and cinched down I went to the air box I had off on the right side...
I got the idea of fixing the bolt that spins now when your trying to take the air box off, by cutting deeper threads in the bolt and put a nut on it instead of the spring clip that they had.... using my new tap and die set was a real pleasure
I have to admit...it's a Klutch set that set me back about 100 bucks but so far it is working great, reviews say the ratcheting die holder gives out but I haven't had any problems at all with it.
anyway I put that bolt in there and put the nut I had to re cut the threads into to match it.... and then tightened it down and now it doesn't turn !
however doing that meant I had to enlarge the hole in the air filter metal plate
to go over the nut... so the filter would sit flush... once I did that it was ready to go on.... there is NOTHING to hold the air filter in place as your trying to get the cover on and it wants to fall off and out of there after about an hour of fussing with it I got it close and went and got the bent nose needle nose plyers grabbed the filter and pulled up slightly and click it went in and the cover was finally flush ! ....
so it's all together but the gas tank and I'll go back out there in a bit and put it on and take it off the floor jack !
then fire it up ! the rear brake worked great on the first stab after sitting all night so it's good to go !
....
Bob.......
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Old December 9th, 2021, 06:01 PM   #235
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Well, Phooie... I gave out before I got the thing to run !....
I did get it to run for a few seconds but soon as i tried to take the choke off it died.... I guess I gott'a leave the choke on for a bit ..till she shows signs of being warm.... It is cold out there and I tried the method I have been using to get it started but that failed.... ...and it looks like I have a sticky float on the left side carb I used the tickler's and the float stayed down and I had gasoline all over the place ! I poked the tickler a few times and it quit.... not a good sign for brand new carbs !
anyway I kicked it about 200 times and that was enough, I'm done for the day !
LOL.... sucks getting old !
....
later all !
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Old December 9th, 2021, 06:39 PM   #236
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...and it looks like I have a sticky float on the left side carb I used the tickler's and the float stayed down and I had gasoline all over the place !
I've had a good carb do that on its initial filling. The float arm is so low when the bowl is completely empty that it jams against the needle. Sometimes just tapping on the carb with a plastic faced hammer fixes it. Other times I've drained the bowl and started over and had it work.

No guarantees, but that could be the problem.
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Old December 9th, 2021, 07:49 PM   #237
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I've noticed that on these Amal carbs that they do have a tendancy to stick in the down position for some reason I finally cured that on the old set of carbs by setting the floats level with the top of the bowl... I didn't check the new carbs I guess I should have....
....if I have to pull the carbs again I am going to CURE the funky "O" ring soft hold of the carbs once and for all... the studs need the threads cut all the way down the shaft, not just 1/4" down them. they do that because the Amal carbs warp real easily but the carbs have to be tight on there ! their fix didn't fix it at all !
.... it just seems that every time I think I am done working on the Triumph something else crops up and I have more work to do on it.... I'm beginning to wonder if getting this old dinosaur was a good move or not !
LOL.....
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Old December 10th, 2021, 02:22 AM   #238
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I've noticed that on these Amal carbs that they do have a tendancy to stick in the down position for some reason I finally cured that on the old set of carbs by setting the floats level with the top of the bowl... I didn't check the new carbs I guess I should have....
....if I have to pull the carbs again I am going to CURE the funky "O" ring soft hold of the carbs once and for all... the studs need the threads cut all the way down the shaft, not just 1/4" down them. they do that because the Amal carbs warp real easily but the carbs have to be tight on there ! their fix didn't fix it at all !
.... it just seems that every time I think I am done working on the Triumph something else crops up and I have more work to do on it.... I'm beginning to wonder if getting this old dinosaur was a good move or not !
LOL.....
Bob....
Yup as rule you should check stuff being shipper like throw things around
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Old December 10th, 2021, 02:48 PM   #239
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Ok I got it going again.... but it is running really poorly.... not like it was when I shut it off to do the rear brake by any means.....
.... I've thought about it a while and here is my GUESS as to why that is.....
1.) I replaced the old air filters that were beyond the need to replace they were brown with many years of use and crushed in such a way as to keep them from sealing real good with the air boxes.... so they got new air filters....
BUT the engine's carbs were tuned to that restricted air flow and although I got it running real good that way, I UNRESTRICTED the air flow ( hopefully) and now the carbs are set way too lean.... any thing off Idle runs great ... it's the idle adjustment
that is the problem right now... I played and I do mean played, with the air screw adjustments and got it running a bit better but not by much I had to raise the idle screws a long way just to get it to hold RPM at 2000RPM then I slowly backed them down and the slower the engine ran the worse it got....
till it finally dropped the left cylinder completely .
.... I wouldn't think that dirty air filters would cause me to have to re tune everything
but that is what it is looking like ! ...
it's also possible that one of the cables is out of it's holder and causing it not to be synchronized.... but that shouldn't affect IDLE ! ( if the one slide was held further open then the other one I suppose it would)
....
it would NOT run with the choke off.... flat out would not run.... which tells me the air screw adjustments are way out of whack now....
so I am back to square 1 now with getting the bike to run smoothly at idle...
....
grabbing RPM's was good and running above 3,000RPM was flawless.
but below that it starts to mess up, missing staggering and what not.
.... I have to get it to idle at 800 RPM to adjust the airscrews.... and anything below 1000 RPM or more it wants to drop the left cylinder completely...and then it dies.
..... sounds to me like it is air screw adjustment on the left cylinder at the moment
...but I moved it out and it wasn't any better.... ( i did not go in with it, )
.....
I suppose the pilot circuit could be clogged even though I put on new filters in the gas line circuit ( new petcocks ) but dirt and crap could have made it's way through the lines to the idle jet already..... unlikely but possible !
....
with all my playing with it , trying to get it to run good, it got fairly warm so I had to quit and let it cool down.... I didn't have my fan on for the engine.
....
I am tempted to go out there and turn the air screws to 1.5 turns out and try it.... that is what the Carbs came with.... i have no idea what they are now
probably around 3 turns out.
....
no doubt I have never had this problem before as when you turn the bike off when it's running good tear into it and put it back together again it usually still runs good..... but I did change a few things...
ooooh well !
later !
Bob........
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Old December 10th, 2021, 06:28 PM   #240
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Ok I got it going again.... but it is running really poorly.... not like it was when I shut it off to do the rear brake by any means.....
.... I've thought about it a while and here is my GUESS as to why that is.....
1.) I replaced the old air filters that were beyond the need to replace they were brown with many years of use and crushed in such a way as to keep them from sealing real good with the air boxes.... so they got new air filters....
BUT the engine's carbs were tuned to that restricted air flow and although I got it running real good that way, I UNRESTRICTED the air flow ( hopefully) and now the carbs are set way too lean.... any thing off Idle runs great ... it's the idle adjustment
that is the problem right now... I played and I do mean played, with the air screw adjustments and got it running a bit better but not by much I had to raise the idle screws a long way just to get it to hold RPM at 2000RPM then I slowly backed them down and the slower the engine ran the worse it got....
till it finally dropped the left cylinder completely .
.... I wouldn't think that dirty air filters would cause me to have to re tune everything
but that is what it is looking like ! ...
it's also possible that one of the cables is out of it's holder and causing it not to be synchronized.... but that shouldn't affect IDLE ! ( if the one slide was held further open then the other one I suppose it would)
....
it would NOT run with the choke off.... flat out would not run.... which tells me the air screw adjustments are way out of whack now....
so I am back to square 1 now with getting the bike to run smoothly at idle...
....
grabbing RPM's was good and running above 3,000RPM was flawless.
but below that it starts to mess up, missing staggering and what not.
.... I have to get it to idle at 800 RPM to adjust the airscrews.... and anything below 1000 RPM or more it wants to drop the left cylinder completely...and then it dies.
..... sounds to me like it is air screw adjustment on the left cylinder at the moment
...but I moved it out and it wasn't any better.... ( i did not go in with it, )
.....
I suppose the pilot circuit could be clogged even though I put on new filters in the gas line circuit ( new petcocks ) but dirt and crap could have made it's way through the lines to the idle jet already..... unlikely but possible !
....
with all my playing with it , trying to get it to run good, it got fairly warm so I had to quit and let it cool down.... I didn't have my fan on for the engine.
....
I am tempted to go out there and turn the air screws to 1.5 turns out and try it.... that is what the Carbs came with.... i have no idea what they are now
probably around 3 turns out.
....
no doubt I have never had this problem before as when you turn the bike off when it's running good tear into it and put it back together again it usually still runs good..... but I did change a few things...
ooooh well !
later !
Bob........
Have you done a compression test on both cylinders and what does the plugs look like after running for five minutes
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