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Old April 2nd, 2014, 09:48 PM   #81
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Thanks for the info and suggestions, I ordered some parts online and got everything I ordered axcept the oversize pistons and rings, they were put on back order. I am now having issues with the shop I ordered from.
I can get the sleeves from another seller, so if it is doable at home then I will be happy to give it a try. The problem with buying used is you don't know how used it is. When the cost of new sleeves is little more than a used cylinder, then I think that is worth looking at. There is too much play in the pistons and bore in my current setup. Though I had the cylinders honed last time it was apart, there are still some marks from previous damage, (the bike had a heating problem with a previous owner). No 1 piston shows binding marks from this. I reassembled with existing parts and am now looking to resleeve to use the new pistons I already have, which are standard size.
Ginganinja, sorry for going off topic, good luck with your rebuild, it can be a good learning curve and interesting as well.
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Old April 3rd, 2014, 04:22 AM   #82
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Here is one on ebay for $40 plus shipping.

About $3K miles on it. Fortunately for us, there are lots of people out there that buy a motorcycle, ride it for a few weeks, get scared, then let it sit for 10 years. Those bikes sometimes get bought by the online salvage dealers.

EDIT: Kawasaki says the cylinders are replaceable, but I don't know anyone who has actually done it. I'm just guessing when I say they have to be pressed in and out because there is nothing in the manual that says so. It could just as easily be done with temperature variations. In either case, the manual shows replacement o-rings that are used as gaskets for the cylinder to housing connection.
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Old April 3rd, 2014, 04:39 AM   #83
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To replace the sleeves, do not even try to press them out. A machinist will bore the old sleeves out. Then replace the sleeves. Its a hot block ,cold sleeve process and once it is in, it will be in for good.
Then they bore the new sleeve to size and hone. Not a big deal for machine shop.

If you need custom pistons or custom rings contact my friend John Noonan at Wossner Pistons. They can do what ever you need. But you have to know exastly what you need.
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Old April 3rd, 2014, 05:05 AM   #84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by baxtc1 View Post
Thanks for the info and suggestions, I ordered some parts online and got everything I ordered axcept the oversize pistons and rings, they were put on back order. I am now having issues with the shop I ordered from.
I can get the sleeves from another seller, so if it is doable at home then I will be happy to give it a try. The problem with buying used is you don't know how used it is. When the cost of new sleeves is little more than a used cylinder, then I think that is worth looking at. There is too much play in the pistons and bore in my current setup. Though I had the cylinders honed last time it was apart, there are still some marks from previous damage, (the bike had a heating problem with a previous owner). No 1 piston shows binding marks from this. I reassembled with existing parts and am now looking to resleeve to use the new pistons I already have, which are standard size.
Ginganinja, sorry for going off topic, good luck with your rebuild, it can be a good learning curve and interesting as well.
Not a problem at all bud, I'm actually very interested and curious in what you find out about the resleeving process, and if its viable to do it yourself @baxtc1. If you do decide to give it a shot, make a thread with plenty of pictures about it and you can post the link to my thread, i'd love to read it.

Just doing a quick search on google, i found this article that gives the reason for resleeving cylinders and a quick process of how to do it. One of the steps mentioned is heating the cylinders to 600 degrees, whether that step is necessary or not, it may be difficult to do it without an industrial oven. maybe thats why it is one of those things you have done by a machine shop.
http://precisioncycleinc.com/machini...ecessary-done/

Ohh i've learned an incredible amount of information just from this rebuild, the people that have been helping me have been extremely generous with their time and resources. Before tearing into this engine i had a decent knowledge of engines, well probably just enough to get me into trouble actually, but i had read about things that i actually got to put into practice when rebuilding this, such as valve lapping. That's one of the main reasons I would rather do the work myself even if it takes me a month to complete it and isn't a whole lot cheaper than to just have it done by a mechanic, the learning process alone is still absolutely priceless, not to mention the sense of accomplishment
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Old April 3rd, 2014, 07:02 AM   #85
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Sleeves

You are correct on sleeve replacement. The sleeves are an interference fit. They (As Racerx says) cannot be pressed out cold. You do need to heat them. When hot enough, they will come out easily. But they have to be HOT. The 600 degree oven is about right.

I used to help my machinist in exchange for "credit" towards work I needed for my dragbikes. We would put the cylinders in the oven for an hour, and on most of them once hot the sleeve would slide out, or come out with little effort.

The new sleeves would slide right in. You have to support under the cylinder and put heavy weight in the sleeves to seat them and keep them in place until they cooled off. We used 50 pound steel blocks.

After that a truing run thru the surfacer, and good to go.

Same process for big bore sleeves, except you bore the block to fit the larger sleeves before putting them in. Definately not a home garage job.
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Old April 3rd, 2014, 07:22 AM   #86
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Ok, thanks for the info, not a job I can do after all, damn.
So, given the info received as much as I would like to do the resleeve, I wouldn't be able to get the cylinder to the required temp.
Thank you to n4mwd for the ebay link, am in the process of buying it now.

Last futzed with by baxtc1; April 3rd, 2014 at 08:20 AM. Reason: Added info.
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Old April 3rd, 2014, 12:25 PM   #87
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Sleeves

Thanks for clearing that up about the installation process. I would be curious how you deal with the o-rings? The manual shows three large o-rings between the sleeve and the cylinder head. Wouldn't the heat damage them? Also, would freezing the new sleeves in dry ice shrink them enough to slide into a room temperature cylinder housing. Or do you have to heat the housing up as well?
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Old April 3rd, 2014, 04:27 PM   #88
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I found the photo showing the rings. I will do some research and find the answer to your questions. My guess is they are steel shims. Meant to set the sleeves at the deck height. Yes dry ice will freeze a new sleeve very well. But only to put it into the block. Removal of the sleeve would require so much heat that trying to cool the sleeve in place would not be possible. And cooling the sleeve in the block would cool the block also and it would not release.
This whole process falls under the category of where angles fear to thread. I leave it to a machinest.
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Old April 3rd, 2014, 04:58 PM   #89
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The bottom line is that its not happening for less than $40.
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Old April 3rd, 2014, 05:32 PM   #90
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Its not a big deal to a machine shop. Don't know the cost. But they do it to car and truck block every day. The only problem I have found with getting stuff done is the tools they have are to large to work with such small engines.
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Old April 4th, 2014, 02:20 AM   #91
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Like mentioned previously, it sounds like it might be cheaper and easier to just buy a used cylinder off ebay and hone them rather than go to the trouble of resleeving. but look into the price a machine shop charges and see if its worth it to go for it.
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Old April 4th, 2014, 03:44 AM   #92
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Just the new sleeves alone are $75 each. Don't know about others, but my machine shop has a $50 minimum charge. So that's $200 minimum to go that route.

Boring to 0.5 mm oversize is a little cheaper. New o/s pistons are $30 each.

In all cases, you'll need new rings which are also about $30 each set. I can say that because if your cylinders are worn out, so are your rings.
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Old April 4th, 2014, 04:23 AM   #93
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Since we're on the topic of rings and cylinders, i looked in the manual and couldn't really find anything specific for this, but what is the correct way to get the piston with the rings back into the cylinder?

The service manual suggests a piston block to hold the piston evenly when inserting into the cylinder, but it doesn't mention a ring compressor or anything. Is one necessary?

I know our cylinders are tapered at the base as to allow the rings to compress on their own as the piston is inserted, however i was having a bit of difficulty getting the first piston in and the rings to compress, and don't want to force it without asking my more experienced montage here, and risk the possibility of damaging the rings or cylinder walls.
I did put a generous amount of oil on the cylinder walls, piston sides/skirts, and the rings as is necessary when inserting them.

maybe i just need to quit being so pussy-footed about it and just manhandle those bad boys back into place.
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Old April 4th, 2014, 06:30 AM   #94
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This is the fun part. And when you bore the block the taper is small so its even harder. Let your fingernails grow. Of sharpen a wood dowl into a chisel shape. Oil everything up and find a way to hold the case steady. Wrap one piston with a rag and turn the crank till the other is piston is up. Now eat a biscuit with butter to steady your nerves( my watch maker instructor told me that once)

Set the rings gap at 2:00 and 10:00 and same the the oil rings. Put the oil ring spring at 3:00 6:00 and 7:00.
Now set the block on the piston push the ring so the gap is out and gently get the back of the ring in the block the carefully guide each end into the block. Rock the block gently down to the next one and repeat. Once you get one walk away and let your arms rest . The repeat on the other side. Don't get frustrated or tired. Pull the block off and try again later. It ain't easy.
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Old April 4th, 2014, 07:55 AM   #95
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Set the rings gap at 2:00 and 10:00 and same the the oil rings. Put the oil ring spring at 3:00 6:00 and 7:00.
Can you expand on this a little more? I looked in the service manual and it stated to put the top compression ring gap facing the exhaust valves(headlight), the second compression ring gap 180 degrees from that, so facing the intake valves(tailight), and then the oil ring gaps 30-40 degrees from the top compression ring.....Am i doing it wrong?



Rocking it on from opposite the ring gap sounds like the best plan so far, i like that. i'm not sure why i didn't think about that, i guess i was more worried about making sure that the piston stayed even going into the cylinder.
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Old April 4th, 2014, 08:14 AM   #96
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Just the new sleeves alone are $75 each. Don't know about others, but my machine shop has a $50 minimum charge. So that's $200 minimum to go that route.

Boring to 0.5 mm oversize is a little cheaper. New o/s pistons are $30 each.

In all cases, you'll need new rings which are also about $30 each set. I can say that because if your cylinders are worn out, so are your rings.
In my case, I have new pistons and rings, standard size, already paid for last year, so no expense there. If it was possible to do the resleeve at home and get the deck machined after fitting, that would have been the way I would go.
I didn't realise heat was required for this, was hoping a simple push out the old and push in the new.
It seems that .5mm oversize pistons aren't available (genuine at least) as mine have been on back order since june last year.
For a cheap bike it is a lot of fun and though costing money in upkeep, it is getting me to work and back without taking my other bike there being destroyed by the crap in the air out there. Money can be justified on a work commuter.
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Old April 4th, 2014, 08:52 AM   #97
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Follow the service manual. I do not use factory pistons. The idea is to NOT have any ring gaps lined up.
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Old April 4th, 2014, 09:48 AM   #98
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I aligned my rings the way the manual says and there was no problem. I didn't have any problem getting the pistons to go into the cylinders either. There was a little extra force at first, but they just went right in. I just lined up the pistons and gave the cylinder block a shove.

The hard part is getting the timing chain to behave. It keeps wanting to fall back down the hole.

Don't forget the gasket. You can reuse the lower, but the upper should be replaced.

Its also not a bad idea to get a straight edge and check for head warpage while you are in there.
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Old April 4th, 2014, 02:04 PM   #99
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Follow the service manual. I do not use factory pistons. The idea is to NOT have any ring gaps lined up.
Ok, I'll try what the service manual says first and if that doesn't work after a couple hours.... i'll come back to your idea.

Quote:
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I aligned my rings the way the manual says and there was no problem. I didn't have any problem getting the pistons to go into the cylinders either. There was a little extra force at first, but they just went right in. I just lined up the pistons and gave the cylinder block a shove.

The hard part is getting the timing chain to behave. It keeps wanting to fall back down the hole.

Don't forget the gasket. You can reuse the lower, but the upper should be replaced.

Its also not a bad idea to get a straight edge and check for head warpage while you are in there.
hmmm, ok maybe i just need to use a little extra force, i was just worried about damaging the rings and cylinders before.

As for the timing chain i was thinking of rigging a hook up or something that would easily pull out the chain from the cylinders if thats what you mean. I did run into a problem that everytime i turn the crank to move the pistons, the gears want to eat the chain This is just a bit of a nuisance, but easy to deal with.

I can check for head warpage real quick before i throw it together, what do i check? all the mating seats where gaskets go? top of case, lower and upper of cylinder and lower of head?

I have all new gaskets, to put on, one of the more frustrating parts of putting the pistons in i find is dealing with the gasket as well.
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Old April 4th, 2014, 02:40 PM   #100
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hmmm, ok maybe i just need to use a little extra force, i was just worried about damaging the rings and cylinders before.

As for the timing chain i was thinking of rigging a hook up or something that would easily pull out the chain from the cylinders if thats what you mean. I did run into a problem that everytime i turn the crank to move the pistons, the gears want to eat the chain This is just a bit of a nuisance, but easy to deal with.

I can check for head warpage real quick before i throw it together, what do i check? all the mating seats where gaskets go? top of case, lower and upper of cylinder and lower of head?

I have all new gaskets, to put on, one of the more frustrating parts of putting the pistons in i find is dealing with the gasket as well.
I thought there were alignment pins that the gasket can sit on while you put the cylinder block on. There shouldn't be any noticeable gap under the straight edge. If you see any, the manual tells the maximum thickness.
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Old April 4th, 2014, 03:28 PM   #101
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I thought there were alignment pins that the gasket can sit on while you put the cylinder block on. There shouldn't be any noticeable gap under the straight edge. If you see any, the manual tells the maximum thickness.
my alignments pins came out with the cylinders, rather than staying in the case. But no worries i'm working on the bike right now and i got the cylinders on in about 2 mins when i tried it today. i think i must've been tired the other day and not thinking clearly and it was causing more grief than helping. thats why i called it a day and left it without putting them on.

I checked the bottom of the head with a straight edge for warpage. everything looks good. I did it as the manual suggested, measure it with a straight edge and a thickness/feeler gauge. service limit is .05mm, i wasn't even close to getting the gauge under the straight edge.

so cylinders went on, new gaskets, chain guides, just put in the head bolts snug, and am looking up torque values, and the tightening order. all while taking plenty of pictures to upload later for you guys. it's coming along quite nicely today

Last futzed with by Ginganinja; April 5th, 2014 at 04:05 AM.
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Old April 4th, 2014, 03:30 PM   #102
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my alignments pins came out with the cylinders, rather than staying in the case. But no worries i'm working on the bike right now and i got the cylinders on in about 2 mins when i tried it today. i think i must've been tired the other day and not thinking clearly and it was causing more grief than helping. thats why i called it a day and left it without putting them on.
it could've also been my very knowledgeable montage that i asked and gave me advice
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Old April 4th, 2014, 03:42 PM   #103
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Head bolts tightened to 18.4 ft-lbs in sequence, and the upside down one 106.2 in-lbs. i'm getting excited!!
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Old April 5th, 2014, 03:08 PM   #104
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Where does this hose attach on top???? it looks like it goes on the carb somewhere but i can't find what it attaches too.



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Old April 5th, 2014, 04:50 PM   #105
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Go to my carb removing video and then to the end of the video. It shows where that hose goes.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AD5br8HCfn0
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Old April 5th, 2014, 06:02 PM   #106
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Go to my carb removing video and then to the end of the video. It shows where that hose goes.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AD5br8HCfn0
Got it! In between the carb intakes! thanks
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Old April 8th, 2014, 04:17 AM   #107
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Ok big update with pictures for everyone tonight!!!!

So last week i got alot of my project finished. and then finished it up tonight. i was worried about getting the clutch basket off so i could take the case apart and swap out the cam chain. That was unnecessary. I managed to take the case apart while working around the clutch basket.

I needed to get that chain replaced


but the clutch basket was blocking this piece(lever-comp change shaft) that kept the case from splitting



so with some finesse.... i was able to get the case apart.

bottom of the case



and to that pesky chain!!!




that's my problem right there!!


So i replaced the chain and put the case back together. next was a new gasket and the pistons in the cylinders......thanks for the help






After some great advice, i was able to get the pistons in the cylinders in under five minutes and set for TDC for cylinder 2, heres a before and after of the piston top.





Next I used a straight edge and feeler gauge to measure the head for warpage, didn't get a picture of actually measuring because i couldn't hold the camera, the straight edge, and the feeler gauge all at the same time. but it was within the service limit








Next.... putting the cylinder head back on!!!!


I tied a string to the chain to hold it up out of the bottom of the chain well


I installed the rocker arms and cams and then lubed them up with this, cuz its always better with lube, the camshaft cap bolts still needed tightening. I had to look up the torque and sequence




Next, double checking the timing, with my straws for TDC.....








Lastly, the valve adjustment, and torquing all the locknuts to 12ft-lbs and making sure no dog ears snapped off in the process. I didn't take any pictures of this, but here's one all buttoned up and ready to go back in the bike....








Unfortunately, my camera died and i was unable to take any more pictures, but i did get the engine in and all put back together, i actually started it tonight and took it for a couple easy laps through the neighborhood. i didn't put the fairings back on yet, but she sounds better than ever!!! i'll charge the camera and snap some finished product pictures of her all wiped down and back together!!!


It feels so good to get her back together Thanks so much to everyone who participated and helped me in this rebuild, I am very grateful for your help, contributions, and generosity. @n4mwd, @Motofool, @Racer x, You guys really do make this one of the best motorcycle forums i've ever been on. And Special shout out to @EMSRacer07, you're a great guy and I really appreciate you going out of your way to accommodate me with such a great engine head for a hell of a deal, just for the sake of being able to see me get back out there and ride.

Overall, this has been one of the best learning experiences i have embarked on, with quite a bit of help and participation i was able to build vastly on my limited foundation of knowledge about engines, and specifically my bike! i can't stress how much i appreciate it guys!
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Old April 8th, 2014, 05:14 AM   #108
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OOPS!

I just looked at your photos. Now I feel bad. There is supposed to be a cam chain guard that goes around the sprocket on the crankshaft. In your first photo of your last post I can see that it is broken off. Unlike the chain guard over he cams, this one is molded into the case.

At this point in time, its probably OK to just ignore it. As long as your chain tensioner does its job, there shouldn't be any problem.

Now for the bad news. That chain guard is also the reason why you need to split the case to get the cam chain out. Since yours was broken off, there was no need to split the case. If I had seen that photo before I would have said something. Sorry about that.

A few last points.

Are you absolutely sure that the harmonic balancer gear and the crank gear did not become misaligned when you moved the crank to get the chain in? If it is misaligned, the engine will run for a while and then the crank will snap in two.

Are you certain that there are no obstructions in the oil system that could cause the oil to not flow good. Copper tube thing replaced properly, etc.. What bugs me is that something caused your cams to starve for oil and go bad like that. We never really figured out why.

In any case, now you're an expert so if you ever have to rebuild another Ninja engine, you'll be able to do it in your sleep.
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Old April 8th, 2014, 05:47 AM   #109
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Originally Posted by n4mwd View Post
I just looked at your photos. Now I feel bad. There is supposed to be a cam chain guard that goes around the sprocket on the crankshaft. In your first photo of your last post I can see that it is broken off. Unlike the chain guard over he cams, this one is molded into the case.

At this point in time, its probably OK to just ignore it. As long as your chain tensioner does its job, there shouldn't be any problem.

Now for the bad news. That chain guard is also the reason why you need to split the case to get the cam chain out. Since yours was broken off, there was no need to split the case. If I had seen that photo before I would have said something. Sorry about that.

A few last points.

Are you absolutely sure that the harmonic balancer gear and the crank gear did not become misaligned when you moved the crank to get the chain in? If it is misaligned, the engine will run for a while and then the crank will snap in two.

Are you certain that there are no obstructions in the oil system that could cause the oil to not flow good. Copper tube thing replaced properly, etc.. What bugs me is that something caused your cams to starve for oil and go bad like that. We never really figured out why.

In any case, now you're an expert so if you ever have to rebuild another Ninja engine, you'll be able to do it in your sleep.
lol just my luck with the chain guard. I actually found the piece of it that snapped off, not sure how exactly it happened, but it definitely happened when i had it apart. i saw that that was all it was and figured i'd put it back together anyways. rather than buy a whole nother case half for that one piece.

as for the harmonic balancer, i didn't move the crank more than a few milimeters, just enough to slip the chain out from under the gear, so hopefully not? how would i go about checking to make sure its not misaligned.

i already rode the bike for about a mile and a half through my neighborhood, so would the damage already be done if it is misaligned?

As for the oil passages, i blew them all out with compressed air, and they were all clear. nothing came out of any of them.
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Old April 9th, 2014, 03:09 PM   #110
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It feels so good to get her back together Thanks so much to everyone who participated and helped me in this rebuild, I am very grateful for your help, contributions, and generosity. @n4mwd, @Motofool, @Racer x, You guys really do make this one of the best motorcycle forums i've ever been on. And Special shout out to @EMSRacer07, you're a great guy and I really appreciate you going out of your way to accommodate me with such a great engine head for a hell of a deal, just for the sake of being able to see me get back out there and ride.

Overall, this has been one of the best learning experiences i have embarked on, with quite a bit of help and participation i was able to build vastly on my limited foundation of knowledge about engines, and specifically my bike! i can't stress how much i appreciate it guys!
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Old April 9th, 2014, 06:21 PM   #111
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lol just my luck with the chain guard. I actually found the piece of it that snapped off, not sure how exactly it happened, but it definitely happened when i had it apart. i saw that that was all it was and figured i'd put it back together anyways. rather than buy a whole nother case half for that one piece.

as for the harmonic balancer, i didn't move the crank more than a few milimeters, just enough to slip the chain out from under the gear, so hopefully not? how would i go about checking to make sure its not misaligned.

i already rode the bike for about a mile and a half through my neighborhood, so would the damage already be done if it is misaligned?

As for the oil passages, i blew them all out with compressed air, and they were all clear. nothing came out of any of them.
You can't buy a case half because they are a matched set, but the whole thing is about $30 on ebay if you go that route. Personally, if mine was like that, I would be thinking in terms of some sort of home made bolt on bracket.

The harmonic balancer keeps the crank from self destructing at high RPMs. If you are certain there is no chance that it skipped a tooth while you were working on it, then there shouldn't be a problem. The only way I know to verify it is to pull the flywheel and see if the dots on the gears line up. I honestly don't know if just one tooth off would be that big of a problem. But nevertheless, if you ever have to pull the flywheel again, you should check it.

The failure mode of a harmonic balancer is the crankshaft snaps in two after running for a while. Based on what you have said, I don't think you will have a problem with it because it sounds like you were careful not to let the gears un-mesh.
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Old April 9th, 2014, 11:23 PM   #112
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So i took the bike out for a pretty easy 15 mile ride on side streets tonight to help things seat in properly. Everything feels great, it is actually running better than it was before i tore it all apart. The engine feels like there's more compression, which there probably is now(will do a compression test to verify), and it has more power and feels more responsive. Things felt a little loose and sloppy before, but i guess there was a reason for all that, with the chain needing to be replaced, the rocker arms worn and broken, and the cams pitted and worn, as well as a cracked valve. It feels like a brand new engine in the bike now!

I still need to sync the carbs, and adjust the idle when i can find some free time in the next week or so!!! Everything should be running at full capacity pretty soon. It feels so good to have it back up and running. I can finally stop driving my car to work everyday and start commuting on the bike again
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Old April 9th, 2014, 11:47 PM   #113
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You can't buy a case half because they are a matched set, but the whole thing is about $30 on ebay if you go that route. Personally, if mine was like that, I would be thinking in terms of some sort of home made bolt on bracket.

The harmonic balancer keeps the crank from self destructing at high RPMs. If you are certain there is no chance that it skipped a tooth while you were working on it, then there shouldn't be a problem. The only way I know to verify it is to pull the flywheel and see if the dots on the gears line up. I honestly don't know if just one tooth off would be that big of a problem. But nevertheless, if you ever have to pull the flywheel again, you should check it.

The failure mode of a harmonic balancer is the crankshaft snaps in two after running for a while. Based on what you have said, I don't think you will have a problem with it because it sounds like you were careful not to let the gears un-mesh.
I thought about JB welding the piece back on the case, but the reason i didn't is that if it ends up vibrating lose or breaking off again, it's going to cause alot more damage being in there and floating around then if it's broken off and wasn't there at all. I didn't realize the cases were that cheap. If I ever have to strip it back down again, i'll splurge and replace it then.

ohhh yeah if the gears are meshed together for the harmonic balancer and the crank, i really don't think i lifted it far enough up to unmesh them. I just wasn't sure what you meant when you said misalign them. it was literally a couple of milimeters that i lifted the crank, just the thickness of the chain, in order to slide the old one out and the new one in. i didn't know about that ahead of time but i just figured it would be better not to disturb the crankshaft too much anyways. it seems like my intuition paid off.....hopefully. But since I haven't put the fairings back on yet, it wouldn't be too hard to take the case cover and the flywheel off to double check, it would certainly be a simple task just for the peace of mind it would bring. Have you ever seen pictures or heard of that happening before from anyone on the forum? I'm curious as to how many miles of running with the crank and the harmonic balancer misaligned would the crank actually snap? a few rotations of the crank? couple miles? 50 miles? Just curious.....
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Old April 10th, 2014, 05:08 AM   #114
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Originally Posted by Ginganinja View Post
I thought about JB welding the piece back on the case, but the reason i didn't is that if it ends up vibrating lose or breaking off again, it's going to cause alot more damage being in there and floating around then if it's broken off and wasn't there at all. I didn't realize the cases were that cheap. If I ever have to strip it back down again, i'll splurge and replace it then.

ohhh yeah if the gears are meshed together for the harmonic balancer and the crank, i really don't think i lifted it far enough up to unmesh them. I just wasn't sure what you meant when you said misalign them. it was literally a couple of milimeters that i lifted the crank, just the thickness of the chain, in order to slide the old one out and the new one in. i didn't know about that ahead of time but i just figured it would be better not to disturb the crankshaft too much anyways. it seems like my intuition paid off.....hopefully. But since I haven't put the fairings back on yet, it wouldn't be too hard to take the case cover and the flywheel off to double check, it would certainly be a simple task just for the peace of mind it would bring. Have you ever seen pictures or heard of that happening before from anyone on the forum? I'm curious as to how many miles of running with the crank and the harmonic balancer misaligned would the crank actually snap? a few rotations of the crank? couple miles? 50 miles? Just curious.....
I know what its like to be stuck in a car. About a week ago I go out to take the bike out and noticed that my rear tire was down to the threads. I refused to ride it like that and had to go back to the car. Unfortunately, the car had a dead battery and 4 flats from sitting so long. Fortunately, all it needed was a charge and air. I have my new tire now, but haven't had a chance to put it on,so I'm still stuck in the car.

I know for a fact that without the harmonic balancer in place, the crank will eventually snap in two. But a minor misalignment is going to take a lot longer to cause damage and at a much higher RPM. My guess is that if it was misaligned, that you would feel it at higher RPMs.

I don't think its worth the trouble to check in your case because it doesn't sound like you had it apart enough to unmesh the gear. Lifting the clutch side even an inch would not be enough to disengage the balancer gear. Just remember that if you ever have to take it apart again that you need to make sure those marks are lined up, but I don't think you need to do anything at this point.



As far as the broken chain guard, don't use JB-Weld - for all the reasons you mentioned, plus the fact that its flexible and wouldn't do the job. Welding might work, but you need a pro to do it and you still run the risk of warping the case. The cost of a new case is only $30 on ebay so paying a welder is cost prohibitive.

Making a bolt on bracket might be an option, but I know for a fact that a lot of guys just ride without worrying about it. I have even heard of some guys actually dremmeling that tab off so they don't have to split the case and do it right when they change the chain. I don't know what the long term results of that were.

But at the very least, you need to be extra diligent in making sure that the tensioner is doing its job so the chain doesn't get loose enough to hop a tooth. So every time you adjust your valves or have the valve cover off for another reason, you need to take a critical look at it.
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