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Old April 1st, 2015, 06:53 PM   #121
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No joke, we have equipment that's that old. Both in the shop and in the plant.
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Old April 1st, 2015, 06:57 PM   #122
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unlike most of the **** we have around in this country, those machines are designed to last. people only get rid of them when they need money, or they have a better one that does fancy cnc ****
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Old April 5th, 2015, 02:00 PM   #123
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YESSSSSSS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! FINALLY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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Old April 5th, 2015, 06:48 PM   #124
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M42, pardon my ignorance, but how is that picture significant? Congrats on whatever it is!!
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Old April 5th, 2015, 08:12 PM   #125
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Old April 5th, 2015, 08:26 PM   #126
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so what was the problem?
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Old April 6th, 2015, 02:51 AM   #127
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Cheap **** sensors. Bought the $30 one, worked on the first try. Don't be a cheap bastard, kids
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Old April 6th, 2015, 06:40 PM   #128
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Works as it should. Slight inaccuracy (shows 58 while doing 55) but my ninja had that too, I think a lot of bikes do. Don't care enough about it to spend $ on a speedoDRD/healer. It pulls and sounds like I can't even believe.

Stay tuned for some glamor shots!
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Old April 6th, 2015, 09:49 PM   #129
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do a wheelie
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Old April 19th, 2015, 04:17 PM   #130
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Wheelies and SVs don't mix apparently you can frag the everloving **** out of the engine much easier than other bikes due to the configuration.

however...

Link to original page on YouTube.

Nothing better than seeing a cop come around a blind crest after getting rowdy on an empty road.

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Old April 19th, 2015, 04:26 PM   #131
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L twins no likey dat wheelie without dry sump convo
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Old April 25th, 2015, 05:03 PM   #132
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I've never ever heard of anyone converting an SV to a dry sump.. ew
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Old May 9th, 2015, 09:23 AM   #133
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Buddy helped me change the chain. The old one was ****ed. Really tight, some links almost too tight to move by hand Thanks for putting 1k on it while it was an inch too lose, PO.



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Old May 9th, 2015, 09:35 AM   #134
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^^ umm, you're actually better to ride with it a hair loose than a hair tight. As your swingarm compresses, the center to center distance between sprockets is not constant. This is why we have to leave slack in the chain in the first place. If you have too much slack, it will slap on the swingarm or whatever, but it's not a huge deal because even with slack, you still have more than enough degrees of engagement between the chain and sprockets for safety. But if your chain is tight, as the swingarm goes through it's travel, you'll put a buttload of tension on the chain because your center to center distance will be shorter than the required center to center distance, and the only place you'll have the ability to give in that system is either forcing the output shaft to flex forcing the adjuster to flex. You can do a lot of damage with a chain that is too tight.

Think about it; a good chain like $60 and an hour of time. A damaged output shaft in your transmission is a lot more expensive and can be very time consuming to fix.
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Old May 9th, 2015, 09:51 AM   #135
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? I know that tight is a lot worse than loose (chain eats sprockets that way, too). I'm not sure what it has to do with replacing a chain with a good deal of kinking links. Old chain was past the point of recovery, so I replaced it with a new one that's adjusted smack dab in the middle of the range (25mm). Feels like a whole new bike. Again.
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Old May 9th, 2015, 10:35 AM   #136
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You said this:
Quote:
Originally Posted by M42 View Post
Thanks for putting 1k on it while it was an inch too lose, PO.
But that's not the cause of you having sticky links. Sticky links typically are the product of poor chain cleaning/lubrication during use, not running with more slack that recommended by the OEM. Besides, only 1000 miles in loose condition isn't really that big of a deal when you consider that a decent chain should last you 10,000 miles with only minimal (and I mean really minimal) attention to cleanliness/lubrication.

At least that was my train of thought.
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Old May 9th, 2015, 12:46 PM   #137
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Ooooh, I gotcha now.
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Old May 9th, 2015, 08:22 PM   #138
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if you're only paying $60 it's not a good chain

looks good in gold!
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Old May 9th, 2015, 09:03 PM   #139
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what kind of chain is it
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Old May 9th, 2015, 09:14 PM   #140
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Last chain I got was an RK xring something or another and iirc it was about $60. I wouldn't stoop to the <$20 range but anything from the major manufacturers with Orings should be more than sufficient for the load and normal mileage.

What makes an extra expensive chain better?
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Old May 9th, 2015, 10:18 PM   #141
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i haven't used an oring chain in like.... years
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Old May 9th, 2015, 10:38 PM   #142
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Quote:
Originally Posted by choneofakind View Post
Last chain I got was an RK xring something or another and iirc it was about $60. I wouldn't stoop to the <$20 range but anything from the major manufacturers with Orings should be more than sufficient for the load and normal mileage.

What makes an extra expensive chain better?
technological development by the company.
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Old May 9th, 2015, 10:43 PM   #143
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DID X ring only way to go

driven, vortex or sunstar sprockets

seen a DID X ring chain last 25k miles.
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Old May 9th, 2015, 11:40 PM   #144
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Quote:
Originally Posted by choneofakind View Post
Last chain I got was an RK xring something or another and iirc it was about $60. I wouldn't stoop to the <$20 range but anything from the major manufacturers with Orings should be more than sufficient for the load and normal mileage.

What makes an extra expensive chain better?
Whaaat? I bought an RK O-Ring for $50! Dang it. Wish I shopped around a bit more but I was just eager to get the bike in once piece.

I should have taken up smoking again or something. It's probably a cheaper addiction
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Old May 10th, 2015, 09:03 AM   #145
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DID X ring only way to go

driven, vortex or sunstar sprockets

seen a DID X ring chain last 25k miles.
i pay about $15 for a DID standard chain. it lasts about 10k miles.

10x the cost for double the life seems like a ripoff to me
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Old May 10th, 2015, 09:08 AM   #146
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It's a DID X-ring. There's a dude on ebay (chainpros) that cuts them to whatever link size you need, makes it easier if you don't feel like cutting stuff.

Also today I rescued a turtle off the road while riding!



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Old May 28th, 2015, 05:36 PM   #147
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oh MAN! The guy who bought my ninja just posted it for sale after fixing it! I'm so stoked seeing it brought back to life!

https://washingtondc.craigslist.org/...047191345.html
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Old May 28th, 2015, 07:40 PM   #148
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Buy it back.
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Old May 29th, 2015, 04:01 AM   #149
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I considered it for a little bit... but I already own a standard-ish sportbike, having another one wouldn't really make much sense for the riding I do. If I get another bike in addition to the SV, it'd be some kinda small dual sport like an xt225 or dr200.
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Old May 29th, 2015, 10:18 AM   #150
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i haven't used an oring chain in like.... years
what is your maintenance routine like with the non oring chain?

I have often thought about getting one but figure I would never keep up with the maintenance so it is probably a bad idea.
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Old May 29th, 2015, 05:22 PM   #151
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No difference in maintenance between O ring and X ring, X ring just lasts a lot longer (but is more expensive).
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Old May 29th, 2015, 07:01 PM   #152
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what is your maintenance routine like with the non oring chain?

I have often thought about getting one but figure I would never keep up with the maintenance so it is probably a bad idea.
i wax it once when i install it, and then about 7k miles later i replace it. about every 20k miles i replace sprockets. the DID standard chain i use costs about $15
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Old May 29th, 2015, 07:06 PM   #153
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Quote:
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No difference in maintenance between O ring and X ring, X ring just lasts a lot longer (but is more expensive).
x-ring = o-ring. It's just a type of of o-ring design. @alex.s is running chains that aren't o-ring (or x-ring or any-ring). They wear much cheaper, and wear more quickly. But if you don't mind lubricating them properly and changing them more often, the savings might pencil out.

Racing chains (GP, WSBK, whatever) aren't o-ring chains either, as they simply need to last 1 race at max performance before they are trashed.
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Old May 30th, 2015, 04:02 PM   #154
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x-ring = o-ring. It's just a type of of o-ring design. @alex.s is running chains that aren't o-ring (or x-ring or any-ring). They wear much cheaper, and wear more quickly. But if you don't mind lubricating them properly and changing them more often, the savings might pencil out.

Racing chains (GP, WSBK, whatever) aren't o-ring chains either, as they simply need to last 1 race at max performance before they are trashed.
i thought they usually used them an entire weekend?
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Old May 30th, 2015, 04:29 PM   #155
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I thought I had read they swapped them for the race, but perhaps it varies.
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Old June 8th, 2015, 01:47 PM   #156
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Tore up some twisties yesterday

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Old July 29th, 2015, 05:13 PM   #157
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Shits about to get real




I only get to ride about once a week nowadays, but I do 400-500 miles every ride. It wrecks my body, so I'm planning to throw some renthal ultra lows on the bike (gold, natch) and maybe get an ugly but serviceable airhawk on the seat. Stomping grounds are in the appalachians around here: https://www.google.com/maps/@38.5545036,-79.198243,10z

Pics from recent rides.









I have a zx10r shock on the way (got it for $25, buddy price awww yea). Gonna get the suspension dialed in at the trackday. Front brake pads are on the way, waiting for some time to throw a rosso 2 on the back (current tire is 5 years old )

Misc to do: Cyclops 3800 headlight bulb. Current one is dinky af
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Old July 29th, 2015, 06:14 PM   #158
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Looking good. Your bike is almost exactly what I want my FZ1 to look like when done.
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Old July 30th, 2015, 03:33 PM   #159
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Oh! Suggestion. Instead of a cyclops headlight, check out the 7" round LED offerings from GE and JW Speaker. Bad. Ass. LED headlights that are as good or better than HID bixenons.
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Old July 30th, 2015, 04:40 PM   #160
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They're cool looking, but far too expensive for me. A cyclops bulb is like $65, those are 250-300.
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