Oil capacity

Sipper' · March 15th, 2013, 02:10 PM

I know the bike calls for 1.9L with a 'dry' engine and with changing the oil, filter and oil screen I think I recall putting in 1.7L and it was still a little overfull.

Now, today I changed JUST the oil and it only took 1.2L to get it to full.
Rode the bike first and let the oil temp come down to 120f before draining, and let it drain a full hour.

What's your experience?

alex.s · March 15th, 2013, 02:45 PM

i put two bottles in.

LoD575 · March 16th, 2013, 06:14 PM

1.6L with filter removal and 1.3L without filter removal is what the service manual states.

I just changed oil and filter today and put in about 1.7L taking oil level to top line on sight glass.

Joshorilla · March 16th, 2013, 06:27 PM

I've never bothered measuring.

As far as I am concerned the amount of residual oil in the bike makes using any forms of measurement redundant except to ensure you've brought a sufficient minimal quantity of oil, since the residual oil is a variable of which I am unable to ascertain, and indeed potentially changes with every oil change due to engine cycle positions, oil viscosity, drain time etc.

The only constant in changing oil is the dipstick or sight glass, so I fill mine up to the correct level according to whatever metering device is available on the vehicle, turn it on briefly, wait briefly, top it up to the correct level, rinse repeat till desired results are achieved.

mikecronis · March 18th, 2013, 03:35 AM

I've found Mobil-1 MX4T bottles to contain 0.9L of oil. Two bottles would be 1.8L. I usually put both in but not allowing it to sit upside down in the oil-fill funnel so as to not drain the plastic bottle completely. This'd give me approximately 1.7L combined.

If you don't change the filter, I'm pretty sure you want to go 1.4L. I'm switching to a 5W-30 from a 10W-40 as I've had better luck with that viscosity having owned 3 Ninja 250 bikes in the last 15 years (changing the first two out for color reasons, the last one for the cool '08 design). Overheating has not been a problem.

I know there's a lot of oil talk wars on engine forums, and I don't want to begin that so everyone SHUSH about oil type/grade/brand/flavor!!! I've experimented with anywhere from 20W50 to 5W20 (riding in 11 degree F weather in ND and CO) and I find the thinnest oil possible works best for top-speed (20W50 yielded an indicated 99MPH vs 5W30 yielded 109MPH indicated same day, same hour, same wind, same direction of travel, same brand, same conditions, same road I-29 ND). I also found that molybdenum-added Mobil-1 MX4T versus Mobil-1 helps with clutch slippage making shifting more snappy (and recommended) but I suspect not really that necessary as I owned one for 5 years with non-molybdenum and 19k miles with no clutch problems. Shrug. I know, I know. I should use moly but.. um.. well.. it seems to make less of a difference with the tiny 249cc Ninja 250R than on some of my liter-bikes I've owned.

Sipper' · March 18th, 2013, 03:52 PM

I like to measure every thing. Habit or OCD, don't know.
Anyway, my KLX never took what the book said and it appears the Ninja doesn't either. My measuring device must be retarded!
Two different bikes, same measuring device, yep, it's retarded!
Thanks anyway guys.

menikmati · March 18th, 2013, 03:53 PM

Buy two bottles and keep the remainder of the bottle for topping off or use it towards the next oil change.

alex.s · March 18th, 2013, 03:54 PM

sometimes i have to turn the engine upside down to get all the oil out. it helps to take the engine out first.

menikmati · March 18th, 2013, 04:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by alex.s

sometimes i have to turn the engine upside down to get all the oil out. it helps to take the engine out first.

I just put a straw to the drain bolt and siphon the rest out, or put a compressor to the oil fill plug.

Joshorilla · March 18th, 2013, 04:37 PM

I usually buy a 4L bottle, and i'll put the drain bolt back in and pour a little fresh oil then take the bolt out to allow it to flush a bit more of the old oil out, but I wouldn't worry too much about residual oil it's not going to be a problem.

alex.s · March 18th, 2013, 04:42 PM

can anyone tell me what kind of influence extra oil in the crank case would have on the crank itself? would having extra oil higher up put extra resistance on the rotating crank ends/rods? obviously if you got high enough up the piston would come down onto the oil... but then you think about braking and most of the oil rushes to the front over the crank anyway right, so... it shouldn't effect it at all? so just put in enough oil so its above the line... extra shouldn't matter, or...? i mean obviously you dont want too much oil coming out of the crank case breather. but that would be quite a lot of oil. maybe @Racer x has thought about this?

Samer · March 18th, 2013, 05:20 PM

Too much oil could blow a gasket. Stay within the top mark.

Slick_Stevo · March 18th, 2013, 05:37 PM

this>>>>

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wo-YpJlXGLo

...if you overfill your oil, lads (and ladies, of course)

Racer x · March 18th, 2013, 05:38 PM

Extra oil will splash around the crank shaft. Wipping the oil into a foam. This foam will get drawn into the oil pick up. Basic phisics. You can't compress a liquid. That is how oil under pressure holds the internal engine parts away from each other. When air bubbles from the wipped up oil get drawn into the oil pump. The engine will be damaged. Bearing failure from lack of lunrication. Race cars go to great lengths to wipe the oil off the crank and keep it below the crankshaft.

mgentz · March 18th, 2013, 05:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Racer x

Extra oil will splash around the crank shaft. Wipping the oil into a foam. This foam will get drawn into the oil pick up. Basic phisics. You can't compress a liquid. That is how oil under pressure holds the internal engine parts away from each other. When air bubbles from the wipped up oil get drawn into the oil pump. The engine will be damaged. Bearing failure from lack of lunrication. Race cars go to great lengths to wipe the oil off the crank and keep it below the crankshaft.

windage tray and a scraper anyone?

BlueHairSar · March 18th, 2013, 06:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sipper'

I know the bike calls for 1.9L with a 'dry' engine and with changing the oil, filter and oil screen I think I recall putting in 1.7L and it was still a little overfull.

Now, today I changed JUST the oil and it only took 1.2L to get it to full.
Rode the bike first and let the oil temp come down to 120f before draining, and let it drain a full hour.

What's your experience?

I'm asumming you're using the viewing glass window thing to judge the oil level? Keep in mind that things like being on the center stand, or not being on level ground could change how it reads.

Sipper' · March 19th, 2013, 04:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BlueHairSar

I'm asumming you're using the viewing glass window thing to judge the oil level? Keep in mind that things like being on the center stand, or not being on level ground could change how it reads.

Correct, on centerstand and going by the level in the window.

BlueHairSar · March 19th, 2013, 08:39 AM

Ideally you should be looking at it when the bike is NOT on the stand. Sometimes it's helpful to have a buddy hold the bike up for you.

March 15th, 2013, 02:10 PM	#1
Sipper' ninjette.org member Name: Brian Location: Atlanta Join Date: Dec 2012 Motorcycle(s): 250 Ninja Posts: 179	Oil capacity I know the bike calls for 1.9L with a 'dry' engine and with changing the oil, filter and oil screen I think I recall putting in 1.7L and it was still a little overfull. Now, today I changed JUST the oil and it only took 1.2L to get it to full. Rode the bike first and let the oil temp come down to 120f before draining, and let it drain a full hour. What's your experience?

March 15th, 2013, 02:45 PM	#2
alex.s wat Name: wat Location: tustin/long beach Join Date: Sep 2009 Motorcycle(s): wat Posts: Too much. Blog Entries: 5 MOTM - Oct '12, Feb '14	i put two bottles in. __________________________________________________

March 18th, 2013, 03:53 PM	#7
menikmati crash 250, get supersport Name: Richard Location: San Diego, CA Join Date: Apr 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2010 250R SE (Sold 6/9/14), 2009 ZX-6R (Sold 6/25/14), Subaru BRZ Posts: A lot.	Buy two bottles and keep the remainder of the bottle for topping off or use it towards the next oil change. __________________________________________________

March 18th, 2013, 03:54 PM	#8
alex.s wat Name: wat Location: tustin/long beach Join Date: Sep 2009 Motorcycle(s): wat Posts: Too much. Blog Entries: 5 MOTM - Oct '12, Feb '14	sometimes i have to turn the engine upside down to get all the oil out. it helps to take the engine out first. __________________________________________________

March 18th, 2013, 04:42 PM	#11
alex.s wat Name: wat Location: tustin/long beach Join Date: Sep 2009 Motorcycle(s): wat Posts: Too much. Blog Entries: 5 MOTM - Oct '12, Feb '14	can anyone tell me what kind of influence extra oil in the crank case would have on the crank itself? would having extra oil higher up put extra resistance on the rotating crank ends/rods? obviously if you got high enough up the piston would come down onto the oil... but then you think about braking and most of the oil rushes to the front over the crank anyway right, so... it shouldn't effect it at all? so just put in enough oil so its above the line... extra shouldn't matter, or...? i mean obviously you dont want too much oil coming out of the crank case breather. but that would be quite a lot of oil. maybe @Racer x has thought about this? __________________________________________________

March 16th, 2013, 06:14 PM	#3
LoD575 ninjette.org sage Name: Steve Location: Valdosta GA, US Join Date: Jul 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2012 Ninja 250, 2006 Ninja ZX6R-636 Posts: 661	1.6L with filter removal and 1.3L without filter removal is what the service manual states. I just changed oil and filter today and put in about 1.7L taking oil level to top line on sight glass.

March 16th, 2013, 06:27 PM	#4
Joshorilla Bass Master General Join Date: Aug 2012 Posts: A lot. Blog Entries: 24	I've never bothered measuring. As far as I am concerned the amount of residual oil in the bike makes using any forms of measurement redundant except to ensure you've brought a sufficient minimal quantity of oil, since the residual oil is a variable of which I am unable to ascertain, and indeed potentially changes with every oil change due to engine cycle positions, oil viscosity, drain time etc. The only constant in changing oil is the dipstick or sight glass, so I fill mine up to the correct level according to whatever metering device is available on the vehicle, turn it on briefly, wait briefly, top it up to the correct level, rinse repeat till desired results are achieved.

March 18th, 2013, 03:35 AM	#5
mikecronis ninjette.org member Name: Mike Location: Colorado Springs, CO Join Date: Jun 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2008 Kawasaki Ninja 250R-J, 2005 Honda Superhawk VTR1000 Posts: 95	I've found Mobil-1 MX4T bottles to contain 0.9L of oil. Two bottles would be 1.8L. I usually put both in but not allowing it to sit upside down in the oil-fill funnel so as to not drain the plastic bottle completely. This'd give me approximately 1.7L combined. If you don't change the filter, I'm pretty sure you want to go 1.4L. I'm switching to a 5W-30 from a 10W-40 as I've had better luck with that viscosity having owned 3 Ninja 250 bikes in the last 15 years (changing the first two out for color reasons, the last one for the cool '08 design). Overheating has not been a problem. I know there's a lot of oil talk wars on engine forums, and I don't want to begin that so everyone SHUSH about oil type/grade/brand/flavor!!! I've experimented with anywhere from 20W50 to 5W20 (riding in 11 degree F weather in ND and CO) and I find the thinnest oil possible works best for top-speed (20W50 yielded an indicated 99MPH vs 5W30 yielded 109MPH indicated same day, same hour, same wind, same direction of travel, same brand, same conditions, same road I-29 ND). I also found that molybdenum-added Mobil-1 MX4T versus Mobil-1 helps with clutch slippage making shifting more snappy (and recommended) but I suspect not really that necessary as I owned one for 5 years with non-molybdenum and 19k miles with no clutch problems. Shrug. I know, I know. I should use moly but.. um.. well.. it seems to make less of a difference with the tiny 249cc Ninja 250R than on some of my liter-bikes I've owned.

March 18th, 2013, 03:52 PM	#6
Sipper' ninjette.org member Name: Brian Location: Atlanta Join Date: Dec 2012 Motorcycle(s): 250 Ninja Posts: 179	I like to measure every thing. Habit or OCD, don't know. Anyway, my KLX never took what the book said and it appears the Ninja doesn't either. My measuring device must be retarded! Two different bikes, same measuring device, yep, it's retarded! Thanks anyway guys.

March 18th, 2013, 04:37 PM	#10
Joshorilla Bass Master General Join Date: Aug 2012 Posts: A lot. Blog Entries: 24	I usually buy a 4L bottle, and i'll put the drain bolt back in and pour a little fresh oil then take the bolt out to allow it to flush a bit more of the old oil out, but I wouldn't worry too much about residual oil it's not going to be a problem.

March 18th, 2013, 05:20 PM	#12
Samer ninjette.org guru Name: Samer Location: Jupiter, Florida Join Date: Sep 2009 Motorcycle(s): 09 Ninja 250R SE Posts: 376	Too much oil could blow a gasket. Stay within the top mark.

March 18th, 2013, 05:37 PM	#13
Slick_Stevo ninjette.org member Name: Steve Location: Toronto, Canada Join Date: Feb 2013 Motorcycle(s): '13 GSX-R600, '09 Ninja 250, 04 SV 650 (track) Posts: 157	this>>>> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wo-YpJlXGLo ...if you overfill your oil, lads (and ladies, of course)

March 18th, 2013, 05:38 PM	#14
Racer x ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Eric Location: Iowa City Join Date: May 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2008 Kawmeracchi 350 2010 Project X Posts: A lot. Blog Entries: 54 MOTM - Sep '18, Feb '16	Extra oil will splash around the crank shaft. Wipping the oil into a foam. This foam will get drawn into the oil pick up. Basic phisics. You can't compress a liquid. That is how oil under pressure holds the internal engine parts away from each other. When air bubbles from the wipped up oil get drawn into the oil pump. The engine will be damaged. Bearing failure from lack of lunrication. Race cars go to great lengths to wipe the oil off the crank and keep it below the crankshaft. __________________________________________________ Top speed 123.369mph. Ohio mile Worlds fastest 250 ninja
	1 out of 1 members found this post helpful.

March 19th, 2013, 08:39 AM	#18
BlueHairSar ninjette.org sage Name: Sarah Location: NYC Join Date: Aug 2012 Motorcycle(s): Silver 2005 Ninja 250 - Available for free mustache rides. Posts: 842	Ideally you should be looking at it when the bike is NOT on the stand. Sometimes it's helpful to have a buddy hold the bike up for you. __________________________________________________ https://www.facebook.com/BlueShootsYou \| http://blueshootsyou.com

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