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Old October 5th, 2020, 10:17 PM   #1
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Question Motor frozen....ish. I have questions

So I picked up a 95 ex250 with under 3k miles on it. Previous owner said the motor was completely locked up. Finally got some time to tinker with it. Pulled the cam chain tensioner and that allowed me to slowly rotate the motor by hand. If I put the cct back in, I can no longer rotate anything.

So my current question...where do I go from here?

Thanks

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Old October 6th, 2020, 06:05 AM   #2
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Pull the valve cover and take a look at the valvetrain. A rocker may have broken and is jamming the cam or gears.

If you can spin the engine with the cam chain disengaged it would suggest the bottom end is not the problem - which is good news.

When you start to put things back together you will need to make sure the cams are in the right place because you have changed their relationship to the crank by turning the engine over with the chain not engaged.

This thread may help - https://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/What_i...t_procedure%3F
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Old October 6th, 2020, 08:22 AM   #3
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Awesome thanks, so I have the valve cover off and checked to make sure none of the rockers jumped ship before I pulled the CCT. So at this point do I just check the valves while I’m in there and then make sure the cams are in the right spot?
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Old October 6th, 2020, 09:20 AM   #4
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Yeah, verify valve-clearances and cam-timing.

I've seen gummed up dried petrol seize up intake-valve stems.
Although that doesn't make engine difficult to turn.
Try following:

- spray PB-Blaster onto intake-valve-stems through intake-port
- spray PB-Blaster into cylinders through spark-plug holes
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Old October 6th, 2020, 06:29 PM   #5
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MOTM - Jun '18, Oct '16
Check the cam timing and reinstall the tensioner, then try to turn it over while watching the cam and valves to see if you can find a problem.

If the cams had gotten out of time it's possible the piston was hitting an open valve and stopping the rotation.
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Old November 15th, 2020, 12:41 PM   #6
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Quick Update:

I soaked everything I could in PB-blaster a few times and then retimed the cams which were waaaay out, I'm not sure how or why.

Currently I can turn the motor slowly by hand with the CCT installed, which is progress. Haven't had time to check valve clearances yet, but I assume that would be prudent before I put things back together.

What would be the best way to check the valves to see if any of them were damaged by either the previous owner or myself attempting to turn the motor by hand with the timing being as far off as it was?
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Old November 15th, 2020, 01:07 PM   #7
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MOTY - 2018, MOTM - Nov '17
Manual says to put engine at 2T for cam-timing.
Whoever did that engine last probably used different mark.

Compression or leak-down test would reveal if you've got valve-sealing issues.

Last futzed with by DannoXYZ; November 15th, 2020 at 02:14 PM.
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Old November 16th, 2020, 10:08 AM   #8
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I’m surprised anyone was inside the motor under 3k on the clock but that makes sense. I can’t think of any other reason the timing would be that far out
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Old November 20th, 2020, 10:56 PM   #9
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just finished up the valves. Adjusted them to the loose side of in spec. Anything else I should check / take care of before I button everything back up and move on to the carbs? Also, should I coat the cams with a little more oil before I put the valve cover back on?
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Old November 21st, 2020, 06:31 AM   #10
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Obviously you won't damage the cams by oiling them.
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Old November 29th, 2020, 12:43 PM   #11
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When cams have been removed or during a rebuild. You should use a 50/50 engine oil & grease mixed together into a thick oil/thin grease ! Apply to journals & lobes.
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Old November 30th, 2020, 07:42 PM   #12
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Flushed the coolant, cleaned the carbs, and changed the oil today. Hooked up a spare battery I had from another bike, and rigged a gravity fed fuel tank (one I normally use for carb syncing) to the carbs. Cranked it over and it started up and idled for a few seconds.

Shut it down pretty quick because carbs started leaking pretty bad. If I ran a gravity fed tank to the carbs instead of using the regular tank /petcock set up, is there a chance it would flood the carbs? Going to rebuild them regardless, more just a question for future.

Also, when the bike was running, I noticed a ton of red/brown frothy liquid pouring out of the drain hole on one of the exhaust pipes. Spoke to the previous owner, turns out he poured ATF down the cylinders to try and loosen them up a while back. Is this a thing? I've never heard of it before.
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Old November 30th, 2020, 08:35 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gitter View Post
Shut it down pretty quick because carbs started leaking pretty bad. If I ran a gravity fed tank to the carbs instead of using the regular tank /petcock set up, is there a chance it would flood the carbs?
The float valves seem to be leaking. Due for a rebuild

If they close properly they will not be leaking even with gravity fed tank.
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Old November 30th, 2020, 11:07 PM   #14
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MOTY - 2018, MOTM - Nov '17
ATF does have lots of cleaners that'll dissolve oil-sludge and deposits. Typically added to oil just before an oil-change and let engine idle for 5-10 minutes while it does its work. Or can be used as piston-soak solvent.

However, can't do anything for mechanical issue like out-of-sync cams.
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Old December 1st, 2020, 09:21 PM   #15
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I think the previous owner was going for the piston soak angle. Ordered carb rebuild kits and a fresh set of plugs, hopefully should be here before the weekend is out.
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Old December 2nd, 2020, 07:21 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gitter View Post
I’m surprised anyone was inside the motor under 3k on the clock but that makes sense. I can’t think of any other reason the timing would be that far out
The cam timing was off because you removed the CCT and turned the engine over.

What did the oil and plugs look like?
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Old December 2nd, 2020, 09:32 PM   #17
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Oil was dark but no metal or coolant in it. Definitely smelled like gas. Plugs were also dark but not the worst I've ever seen. Looked fairly normal for the 2 to 3000 mile mark.
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Old December 4th, 2020, 12:48 PM   #18
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Pull the fuel supply hose off the carbs there is a filter element in the end & I've had trouble with a flooding carb where crud was in the carb fuel pipe between where the hose connects and the float seat. Worth a check .
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Old December 4th, 2020, 07:02 PM   #19
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I'll put it on my list for when I pull the carbs apart. Rebuild kits showed up today so hopefully should be pulling them apart tonight. Just now while typing this I realized I completely forgot to clean the float passages
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Old December 5th, 2020, 12:28 AM   #20
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Pulled carbs, replaced the float valves and float bowl gaskets along with a couple other odds and ends while I was in there. Ran the same set up I did last time, gravity fed auxilary fuel tank and it doesn't seem to be leaking, only ran it for about 30 seconds.

Will swap in fresh plugs in the morning and let it run a little longer to see if its leaking anywhere. Still waiting on pods to show up so I can sync the carbs.

Quick question, when I'm running a gravity fed fuel tank, do I need to cap off the other hose that would go to the petcock? Or do I just let it stay open?

Also, this isn't directly related but I thought I would throw it in here just incase someone was searching and needed the tip: throttle cables were sticking something fierce, lubed them and still felt like they were binding. Turns out there was a bunch of gunk piled up between the throttle tube and the handlebar from the bike sitting outside for so long. Cleaned everything up, throttles and cables are working perfectly fine now.
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Old December 5th, 2020, 08:34 AM   #21
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Yes, cap off vacuum port that normally goes to activate petcock.

Wow, you're doing quite the restoration on poor neglected bike. Good job!
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Old December 5th, 2020, 12:21 PM   #22
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Thanks! So for when the pods show up, do I sync them before I start tuning? I'm assuming yes. In their current state, 108 mains, idle screws 2.5 turns out, stock pilots, and no shims on the needles. I just ballparked stuff for now off of other 250's I've done as I dont currently have the filter (waiting on shipping)


Also, do I need to have pods attached to the carbs to get an accurate sync? I always assumed yes, but never actually asked the question.
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Old December 5th, 2020, 05:17 PM   #23
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Yeah, sync can be 2-step process.

First I bench-sync them using feeler-gauges between butterflies and venturi side.
Then after they're installed with pods & filters, sync again with vacuum-gauge.

You'll probably end up using around 100-102 mains after tuning with dyno/wideband.
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Old December 7th, 2020, 04:25 PM   #24
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Ok sweet, filter showed up yesterday, so hopefully should be able to get that knocked out this week.

Odd side question: Let the bike run a little bit longer mostly to make sure the carbs weren't leaking, the pipes were getting up to operating temp and started dumping out blue smoke. I know this normally means its burning oil, however would the ATF that was in there previously (and is still clearing out) cause the same blue smoke as oil burning? Or should I start looking deeper into the motor?
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Old December 7th, 2020, 05:16 PM   #25
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Remove mufflers and clean them out. Probably has A LOT of junk accumulated.

Do compression-test after warmed up.
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Old December 7th, 2020, 05:30 PM   #26
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ok, whats the easiest way to clean them out? spray with water then compressed air?
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Old December 7th, 2020, 06:35 PM   #27
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Yeah, garden-hose to inlet.
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Old December 7th, 2020, 08:44 PM   #28
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is there any need to separate the header from the mufflers? Or can it be done all in one shot?
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Old December 8th, 2020, 07:28 AM   #29
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up to you. Most likely not much in headers as everything flows down. It's chambers in muffler that trap stuff. If it's easier to remove header w/muffler, then that's fine too.
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Old December 8th, 2020, 08:09 AM   #30
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I was just going to say don't worry about the smoke for now.

After it's up and running well, just take it for a long ride. If it's still an issue after that I'd be more likely to do something.

Just idling isn't going to get things hot enough to burn-off atf and oil that may have accumulated in the exhaust system.
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Old December 22nd, 2020, 05:40 PM   #31
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bit of a side question: searched my own notes and the forum and couldn't really find the answer I was looking for.

As far as tuning for the k&n pod style filter / stock exhaust, will the stock pilot jets work with a half or full turn extra added to the idle mixture? Or do they need to be replaced with the next size up?
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Old December 22nd, 2020, 11:10 PM   #32
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No changes needed.
Any differences in flow, if there are any, are strictly in high-end.
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Old December 22nd, 2020, 11:50 PM   #33
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hmm ok, so no changes to the idle screws either? keep them at 2.5?
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Old December 23rd, 2020, 07:51 AM   #34
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hmm ok, so no changes to the idle screws either? keep them at 2.5?
That isn't going to change much.

We had a Ninja with pods and a stock (leaky) exhaust, and were in that range for the idle mixture screws with the stock Pilot Jet.

Don't feel the need to go to a big Main Jet. We ran 105s or 108s (don't remember what size is stock) and it was right-on. Typically the stock Main Jet is rich, so running pods helps correct that.

We also shimmed the needles, which is the main area that needs adjustment in all cases - especially when running pods.

Given the choice (ours came with pods) I'd run the stock airbox. Pods make it a lot louder and generally flatter with less throttle-response in the low to mid-range, while giving just a tad more on top (maybe...).

Did it stop smoking?
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Old December 23rd, 2020, 11:05 AM   #35
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hmm ok, so no changes to the idle screws either? keep them at 2.5?
yeah
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Old December 25th, 2020, 06:06 PM   #36
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I won't go as far as to say its stopped smoking completely. But it's smoking a lot less. There's still a bit of ATF coming out of the rain hole on the right muffler. Just gonna run it a little longer and if it keeps smoking after the ATF is no longer draining I'll probably be a little more concerned.

Currently the issue I'm having is it wont run without the choke on. So I'll have to go rummage through that part of the FAQ and see what I missed.

Oh and as far as the main jet I think I only went up to a 108
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Old December 25th, 2020, 06:23 PM   #37
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Most likely idle/pilot circuits need thorough scrubbing. Be sure to poke out lateral bleed holes in pilot and emulsion tubes.



also replace O-rings in fuel-rail and mixture-screws. Otherwise you'd be sucking in air through those leaks instead of petrol.
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Old December 26th, 2020, 11:13 AM   #38
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I'll pull them and scrub the pilot circuit again. Probably throw a couple shims on the needles while I'm in there. I replaced the springs and o rings on the idle mixture needles when I did the float bowl gaskets ( came in the same kit) I'll have to hunt down the ones for the fuel rail
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Old January 30th, 2021, 11:24 AM   #39
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Hey all, been a bit of a busy month, had a bit of time to work on the 250. Current situation: still will only run with choke on.

Pulled carbs and cleaned pilot circuit
checked / adjusted valves
post valve adjust carb sync
did compression test Left cylinder 180 psi // Right cylinder 175 psi

so I'm a bit stumped. My only thought is that I missed something somewhere in the carbs. Thoughts?
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Old January 30th, 2021, 12:02 PM   #40
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MOTY - 2018, MOTM - Nov '17
probably dried chunky bits stuck somewhere deep inside.

I have clean fully refurbed pre-gen set of carbs by ducatiman last year on shelf. You can borrow them to swap and compare to your carbs.

this will at least rule out or implicate your carbs as issue.
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