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Old October 20th, 2018, 01:22 PM   #1
FluxX
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Intermittent FI Light + stalling

Hey guys

So i recently purchased a ninja 250 2012 model (Fuel Injected), Its been driving perfectly besides every now and then it randomly stalls and the FI light turns on. Its difficult to diagnose because its so random
I drove without issue this morning then took it out in the evening for a spin and about and hour into the commute it stalled FI and Oil light came on .So not knowing what quite to do I started the bike and continued driving home.It then happened twice until i got home.
Everytime it occurs I have to switch off the ignition before attempting to start, but otherwise it starts perfectly.
It Does have a power commander and aftermarket exhaust installed.The bike has aprox 27000km on the clock.Im aware il most likely have to lookup the FI codes or take it to a mechanic.Any help, suggestions or similar experience would be appreciated.

Appolgies if I posted something incorrectly im a newbie here.
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Old October 21st, 2018, 01:13 PM   #2
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Remove power-commander and restore back to 100% stock. See how it runs then.
Hopefully it wasn't installed by hand-twisting wires together and wrapped with electrical tape...

Last futzed with by DannoXYZ; October 21st, 2018 at 05:46 PM.
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Old October 23rd, 2018, 02:16 AM   #3
FluxX
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Alright thanx .I will try that.You dont perhaps think another cause may be a faulty spark plug?Not sure on the service history of this bike.
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Old October 23rd, 2018, 03:54 AM   #4
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Clean and sand all the ground ( - neg) connections from battery to frame
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Old October 23rd, 2018, 12:39 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FluxX View Post
Alright thanx .I will try that.You dont perhaps think another cause may be a faulty spark plug?Not sure on the service history of this bike.
Extremely unlikely spark-plug. But to confirm yes or no, remove plug and take photo to post here. Also measure gap of plug.
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Old October 25th, 2018, 09:25 AM   #6
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I have a fuel injected 2011 250R. I haven't had it stall, but I have had the FI light come on and the temp gauge max out. In my case the problem has always seemed to stem back the electrical wiring (the "loom" I think it's called). What seems to happen is that some parts of the loom get water in them and cause corrosion. This has affected the behaviour of my throttle at times and during cold weather has seemed to have made it difficult to start the bike. The problem was fixed for me recently when a mechanic chopped off and replaced the corroded wiring with new wiring.

I think a mechanic can easily test for corrosion by:

1) visually inspecting the loom.
2) using a multimeter to test for resistance on the wires.

I don't know if you will have the same problem as me. I'm not a mechanic. I know very little about bikes. It's possible we've had a similar issue though.

One more thing: a Kawasaki dealer should be able to hook-up a proprietary Kawasaki device to the FI system chip to get a read-out of what the last error was. That may also help to diagnose the problem.

Note: I also have a Power Commander on my bike (PC-V). The PC-V hasn't caused me any issues.
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Old October 25th, 2018, 01:05 PM   #7
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If installed and dyno-tuned properly, PC is wonderfull. Unfortunately, most PC installations are done by hacks using electrical tape instead of solder and heat-shrink wrap. And no dyno-tuning to go with it.

https://www.pnwriders.com/threads/05...issues.154909/
https://cbrforum.com/forum/cbr-929rr...stupid-133997/
http://www.bayarearidersforum.com/fo...d.php?t=507662
https://www.rc51forums.com/forums/18...v-problem.html
https://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/...I-USB-problems
https://www.fz09.org/forum/14-fz-09-...mmander-v.html
https://www.sv-portal.com/forums/5-t...xperience.html



On an EFI bike, best long-term solution is to re-map factory ECU, or replace it completely with programmable EFI system like Microsquirt. Both much cleaner and better performing than any piggyback/interceptors.
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Old October 25th, 2018, 01:31 PM   #8
FluxX
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Apologies for the slow feedback been very busy at work 😪 .
Sadly the PC installed appears to be done with electrical tape.,aswel as the rear custom brakelight cabling.I posted two rough pics I took in the past.Im going to have to redo several connections properly .Check/clean some contacts etc... perhaps revert completely to stock as stated and work from there .I tried the easiest first and loaded the zero map for the PC-V didnt think it would work but gave it a shot incase the mapping was incorrectly done.If all else fails il send it in to my local Kawasaki dealer.
Thanks for the replies .Every suggestion helps.
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Old October 29th, 2018, 10:01 AM   #9
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That side shot of your bike looks really cool. Beautiful machine. I hope you get it fixed so you can enjoy it more
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Old October 29th, 2018, 10:24 AM   #10
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Thanx @akima
So I eventually disconnected the PCV and sadly it is still stalling.Although I could swear its happening less frequently....
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Old October 29th, 2018, 01:42 PM   #11
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Did you restore wiring back to 100% stock? Removed all extra wiring, crimps and tape? Sealed up any exposed wiring with heat-shrink wrap? You might have short somewhere.

First, use this procedure to have it blink error-codes: https://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Fuel_i...des_for_EX250K

Will point you in direction for closer inspection.

EFI engines are extremely sensitive to vacuum-leaks and sensor calibrations:

1. Measure vacuum at MAP-sensor at idle with cold engine
2. Measure vacuum at MAP-sensor at idle with warm engine
(Use rubber T so MAP-sensor AND vacuum gauge can be connected at same time)

3. Measure voltage-output of TPS while going from idle to WOT (key ON, engine not running). Look for any sudden jumps in voltage. Should change incrementally and smoothly with no jumps or dropouts

4. Measure idle-switch in TPS. Should be connected when throttle released. Circuit open as soon as you twist throttle

5. Disconnect O2-sensor and drive around. Does it still stall?

6. Measure voltage going into fuel-pump at fuel-pump connector. With bike idling, wiggle wiring harness going to pump, does it lose voltage and die? Do road-test, Tape voltmeter on dash and drive around. If it stalls, what is voltage going to fuel-pump just before and after it stalls?

7. Injectors & connectors. Wiggle wiring going to injectors. Does that cause stalling?
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Old October 30th, 2018, 11:17 AM   #12
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5. Disconnect O2-sensor and drive around. Does it still stall?
IIRC, my Area-P full exhaust didn't have an 02 sensor or a hole to plug one, but the stock exhaust system did. I think the mechanic that installed my full exhaust used some kind of fake 02 sensor in its place.

FluxX has an after market exhaust, so I guess their 02 sensor has also been replaced by a fake like on my bike.

Note: I don't know what I'm talking about I'm only pointing out that in-case it's useful.
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Old October 30th, 2018, 02:31 PM   #13
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Yep, O2-sensor bypass is to prevent FI light. However, that light only goes on if O2-sensor has completely failed or has been removed.

A failing O2-sensor that's sending erroneous data on other hand, is difficult to detect and troubleshoot. It will however, throw off AFR and can cause stalling. Disconnecting it and driving around is simple troubleshooting procedure. If bike runs better, O2-sensor is at fault.
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Old October 30th, 2018, 03:27 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by DannoXYZ View Post
Yep, O2-sensor bypass is to prevent FI light. However, that light only goes on if O2-sensor has completely failed or has been removed.

A failing O2-sensor that's sending erroneous data on other hand, is difficult to detect and troubleshoot. It will however, throw off AFR and can cause stalling. Disconnecting it and driving around is simple troubleshooting procedure. If bike runs better, O2-sensor is at fault.
Ah that makes sense. I like this thread. I'm learning little bits.
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Old October 31st, 2018, 05:59 AM   #15
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Have you checked all the battery terminals, grounds, and battery voltage?

Low voltage will cause odd running problems, but there may also be wiring/connection issues because some rookie worked on it.
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Old November 12th, 2018, 01:14 PM   #16
FluxX
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Problem potentially solved

Good Day guys,It appears my bike has been behaving .So basically I disconnected and checked my battery.I sanded down its contacts, sorted out some wiring and so fourth.I reckon one of the battery terminals just happened to be loose .
Anyways sometimes its the simple things in life that we overlook.Commuted for around 2 hours without issues.
Would like to thank each person that assisted me.Every bit of info has been useful and appreciated !
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Old November 14th, 2018, 04:47 PM   #17
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Congrats FluxX! Ride safe & ride happy
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