July 9th, 2014, 04:54 PM | #1 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Doug
Location: Sault Ste Marie
Join Date: May 2013 Motorcycle(s): 2007 Kawasaki Ninja 250 Posts: 18
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Shell Rotella 6T Question...
Says on Quart that it is a "Heavy Duty Diesel" synthetic? Can I still use it?
Thanks, Fakker |
1 out of 1 members found this post helpful. |
July 9th, 2014, 05:19 PM | #3 |
#squid
Name: nickypoo
Location: Five Guys
Join Date: Jul 2011 Motorcycle(s): Track dedicated 2008 ZX6R Posts: A lot.
MOTM - Jul '16
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yes
it has the jaso? rating. good for your clutch. you can use your service manual to check what oils are compatible in the future. 21.36 at Walmart and amazon...Just bought some for myself!
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July 9th, 2014, 05:46 PM | #4 | ||
wat
Name: wat
Location: tustin/long beach
Join Date: Sep 2009 Motorcycle(s): wat Posts: Too much.
Blog Entries: 5
MOTM - Oct '12, Feb '14
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Quote:
Quote:
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July 9th, 2014, 05:54 PM | #5 |
ninjette.org certified postwhore
Name: Eric
Location: Murfreesboro, TN
Join Date: Jun 2011 Motorcycle(s): '13 300 Posts: A lot.
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Just changed mine oil to T6 this past weekend.
Used it on my old 250 and my FZ6R |
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July 9th, 2014, 06:05 PM | #6 |
#squid
Name: nickypoo
Location: Five Guys
Join Date: Jul 2011 Motorcycle(s): Track dedicated 2008 ZX6R Posts: A lot.
MOTM - Jul '16
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Woops
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July 9th, 2014, 06:18 PM | #7 |
Wrench wench
Name: The Stigette
Location: DC/MD/VA
Join Date: Jun 2014 Motorcycle(s): TWO HUNDRED FORTY EIGHT CUBIC CENTIMETERS (R.I.P.), SIX HUNDRED FORTY FIVE CUBIC CENTIMETERS Posts: 415
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Stuff's great, cheap at walmart. Use that and don't look back.
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July 9th, 2014, 06:36 PM | #8 | |
Daily Ninjette rider
Name: Hernan
Location: Florida
Join Date: Mar 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2007 Ninja 250 Posts: A lot.
MOTY - 2016, MOTM - Dec '12, Jan '14, Jan '15, May '16
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Quote:
Copied from: http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Oils1.html "Most passenger car oils today use inexpensive VII molecules that break apart relatively easily. Conversely, most Diesel engine oil VIIs are chosen from more expensive chemicals that are more shear stable, since an oil change in a large Diesel is expected to last for 15,000 to 150,000 miles. The additive packages for C (commercial) certification are designed to promote engine life. The additive packages for C rated oils contain extra buffers and detergents to keep the engine clean and free of acids. C rated oils are far better than S oils at holding and dispersing combustion byproducts and other contaminants, and at not becoming acidic. Traditionally these oils are primarily used in diesel motors, which are very expensive and are expected to last a million miles or more. When an engine rebuild costs $10,000 - $15,000 and puts you out of work for a week or three, you don't mind paying a bit more for your oil. The C certification tests have been largely developed by Mack, Caterpillar, Detroit and Cummins to provide the additives necessary to keep these engines running a long time. The latest commercial certification is CI-4 Plus, which includes extra protection for high temperature high revving motors. Since it's designed for Diesel motors, they don't care about no stinkin' catalytic thingies, and CAFE is a place where you get a cup of joe and a donut. CI-4 Plus differs from CI-4 with higher detergent requirements and better sheer stability. The shear stability is exactly what motorcycles need due to running the engine oil through the transmission. When used with the correct filters, these oils are certified for 50,000 mile oil change intervals, and are frequently used for 100,000 to 150,000 miles in diesel long-haul trucks. Now, before you get all excited about the possibilities, you must also keep in mind that the Diesel engines don't run their oil through their transmission, and the large Diesels all have two oil filters, one a normal paper filter, and the other a 1 or 2 micron filter that catches pretty much everything. We don't have these secondary ultra-fine oil filters on our bikes. Also, the large Diesel engines hold eleven gallons of oil - a oil and filter change costs these guys $350 if they use synthetics, $150 if they don't." Please, take a look at this: http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Preferred_Brands
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Motofool .................................Never ride faster than your guardian angel can fly "Mankind is composed of two sorts of men — those who love and create, and those who hate and destroy. Love is the bond between men, the way to teach and the center of the world." - José Martí |
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July 9th, 2014, 06:41 PM | #9 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Doug
Location: Sault Ste Marie
Join Date: May 2013 Motorcycle(s): 2007 Kawasaki Ninja 250 Posts: 18
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Thank everyone. Missed that one on your link Motofool. That was the reason I bought it for this oil change. Brain fart on the diesel part.
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July 9th, 2014, 10:05 PM | #10 |
ninjette.org member
Name: rat
Location: Co Springs
Join Date: Jan 2014 Motorcycle(s): 2007 Ninja 250 Posts: 23
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I put this info out for another member several months ago. https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=172716 Maybe it'll help you too. I had to confirm the info... because it's my bike and my engine. If I messed it up, then it's my fault.
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July 10th, 2014, 05:37 AM | #11 |
ninjette.org sage
Name: michael
Location: Central Georgia
Join Date: May 2013 Motorcycle(s): 2019 Ninja 400, Sold 2012 Ninja 650, Sold 2009 Ninja 250r, Sold 2007 DRZ400s Posts: 628
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so 5w40 is ok to use? i was leary because it would be slightly thinner at start up.
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July 10th, 2014, 07:03 AM | #12 | |
ninjette.org member
Name: rat
Location: Co Springs
Join Date: Jan 2014 Motorcycle(s): 2007 Ninja 250 Posts: 23
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According the the threads from https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=172716, the shear stability should not be a problem for the 5W-40.
Here is the answer you're looking for from: http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Oils1.html Choosing an Oil for Your Motorcycle Quote:
Shell Rotella T6 Full Synthetic Heavy Duty Engine Oil (5W-40) Shell Rotella T Triple Protection Heavy Duty Engine Oil (15W-40) |
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July 10th, 2014, 07:32 AM | #13 | |
Rev Limiter
Name: Jay
Location: WI
Join Date: Jul 2013 Motorcycle(s): '06 SV650n, '00 Derbi GPR, '64 CA77 Dream 305, '70 CL450 Scrambler, numerous dirt bikes Posts: A lot.
MOTM - Jun '18, Oct '16
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Quote:
T6 is JASO-MA rated, T is not, but, according to a Shell Tech Rep all Rotella multigrade oils have the same additive package - so T is safe to use though it didn't go through the certification process (for cost reasons I would assume). Synthetic T6 will shear down somewhat in cycle use from what I've seen, but it's not significant or a problem. Running a 5W instead of a 10W can be a good thing, especially in cold temps. 5W flows better at start-up, which is where a significant amount of wear occurs. Rotella T 15W-40 is a good oil as well, but because it's a conventional 15W doesn't flow well in cold temps. If you are starting below 50F I would use at least a 10W, if not a 5W. For the same grade, synthetic oils flow better at lower temps than conventional oils. |
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1 out of 1 members found this post helpful. |
July 10th, 2014, 11:22 AM | #14 | |
EX500 full of EX250 parts
Name: Bill
Location: Grand Rapids-ish, MI
Join Date: Jul 2012 Motorcycle(s): '18 Ninja 400 • '09 Ninja 500R (selling) • '98 VFR800 (project) • '85 Vulcan VN700 (sold) Posts: A lot.
Blog Entries: 1
MOTM - Aug '15
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July 10th, 2014, 04:01 PM | #15 |
ninjette.org sage
Name: michael
Location: Central Georgia
Join Date: May 2013 Motorcycle(s): 2019 Ninja 400, Sold 2012 Ninja 650, Sold 2009 Ninja 250r, Sold 2007 DRZ400s Posts: 628
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OK. That's what I thought about temperature vs. viscosity.
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