Gas cap won't open

[Lvr]

As the title of the thread says, I can;t get my gas cap to open. Basically it's as though I'm using the wrong key; the lock just won't turn. Unfortunately, it appears I can't just remove the whole assembly either because one of the screws holding it to the tank is under the lid. You can't access it unless you open the cap first.
Has anyone had this happen to them? I'm running low on fuel...
thanks

[bob706]

Have you tried some wd40 or graphite in the lock?

[dubojr1]

Wow that sucks... What year we talking about here. Not sure it makes a difference other than maybe having some warranty left on it. If it is older, I would suggest something to help loosen it up. WD40 would prolly be fine.

[sombo]

I get the same problem with my '94. I just use WD40 down the keyhole and then work it in it and eventually it opens up. Then once open you will see 2 little holes on the bottom of the cap. I then spray the WD40 in those holes as well and work it in as well.

What happens is that the fumes and also the liquid gas gets into the cap and causes corrosion to start. This then causes it to stick and not open.

[dubojr1]

Originally Posted by sombo

I get the same problem with my '94. I just use WD40 down the keyhole and then work it in it and eventually it opens up. Then once open you will see 2 little holes on the bottom of the cap. I then spray the WD40 in those holes as well and work it in as well.

What happens is that the fumes and also the liquid gas gets into the cap and causes corrosion to start. This then causes it to stick and not open.

Ever heard of Fluid Film. I just learned of it recently due to a jet ski purchase. Supposed to the best thing to prevent any corrosion from salt water use. I ordered some yesterday and if it is as good as they claim, it will fix this issue for many years. Just a thought...

http://www.fluid-film.com/

[Lvr]

I'm gonna try a graphite-based lube specifically for locks to get it open. I'll let you know how it goes. Ultimately I think I'm just going to replace the whole unit with a threaded one from sportisi though.
thanks for the advice!

[Lvr]

Originally Posted by dubojr1

Wow that sucks... What year we talking about here. Not sure it makes a difference other than maybe having some warranty left on it. If it is older, I would suggest something to help loosen it up. WD40 would prolly be fine.

It's actually only a 2010. I bought it new and have hd it less than a year. I suspect it's sticking so badly because I got caught in some heavy rain yesterday and water got in it.

[dubojr1]

Originally Posted by Lvr

I'm gonna try a graphite-based lube specifically for locks to get it open. I'll let you know how it goes. Ultimately I think I'm just going to replace the whole unit with a threaded one from sportisi though.
thanks for the advice!

I would think a liquid such as WD40 would work better to loosen it and then use a graphite lube for longevity after a couple fill ups to allow the WD40 to evaporate some.

[Lvr]

I would have thought too, to be honest, but I did some research and it seems like other people with this problem have had much better luck with the graphite. I have wd-40 too tho, so we'll see how it goes. one way or another, the little bastard's coming off

[dubojr1]

Originally Posted by Lvr

I would have thought too, to be honest, but I did some research and it seems like other people with this problem have had much better luck with the graphite. I have wd-40 too tho, so we'll see how it goes. one way or another, the little bastard's coming off

[csmith12]

For this I have learned that 1 once of prevention is worth a pound of cure.

Our ninjas get great millage, but the poor little cheap gas cap lock is easily corroded. Open that sucker up once a week (more or less as needed) prevents the suck issue all together. I now lube mine along with the chain.

To open a stuck one;

1. Clean with wd-40 (may need to let soak for a bit)
2. Insert key and work it back and forth with enough pressure to move it, but NOT bend/break key
3. To power through the really tough parts, use a rubber mallet on the tank mount bracket under the seat. Tap it, but don't pound it as your turn the key
4. With time an patience you should be able to get it open

[Lvr]

Originally Posted by csmith12

For this I have learned that 1 once of prevention is worth a pound of cure.

Our ninjas get great millage, but the poor little cheap gas cap lock is easily corroded. Open that sucker up once a week (more or less as needed) prevents the suck issue all together. I now lube mine along with the chain.

To open a stuck one;

1. Clean with wd-40 (may need to let soak for a bit)
2. Insert key and work it back and forth with enough pressure to move it, but NOT bend/break key
3. To power through the really tough parts, use a rubber mallet on the tank mount bracket under the seat. Tap it, but don't pound it as your turn the key
4. With time an patience you should be able to get it open

I'll keep that in mind, thanks. number 3 there is a good idea; i'll try that if I have problems.

I feel like there should be mention of this issue in the maintenance section of the DIY list, or maybe in the wiki...

[Lvr]

I think if you have the stock gas cap, it would be a good idea next time you have it open to remove the one screw that's UNDER the cap. That way if it locks on you when you're away from home and almost empty... like me today... you can still undo the six external screws and remove the entire unit. pain in the neck, but at least you wouldn;t get stranded.

[DaBlue1]

Originally Posted by Lvr

I'm gonna try a graphite-based lube specifically for locks to get it open. I'll let you know how it goes. Ultimately I think I'm just going to replace the whole unit with a threaded one from sportisi though.
thanks for the advice!

Be careful with powdered graphite lubes in the tank keyhole. Too much and you won't be able to put your key in. Use a liquid spray, but not too much.

[FF0000]

WD-40 should NEVER be used on locks. Sure, it works, for a while...But will eventually cause more problems down the road.

Always use graphite.

[Lvr]

Originally Posted by FF0000

WD-40 should NEVER be used on locks. Sure, it works, for a while...But will eventually cause more problems down the road.

Always use graphite.

That's what I keep seeing, and why I'm planning to use graphite instead.

[FF0000]

Just be sure to not use a ton. Put a little in and then put the key in and take it out a few times. After that, try to turn it. If it doesn't open put a little more in and repeat the steps.

[Lvr]

Originally Posted by FF0000

Just be sure to not use a ton. Put a little in and then put the key in and take it out a few times. After that, try to turn it. If it doesn't open put a little more in and repeat the steps.

sounds good. we'll see how it goes...

[csmith12]

Yea, just like for your chains, the wd-40 is a cleaning agent, not the lube. There is strong debate over what lube is best. Graphite, teflon, lithium, dry silicone, the list goes on.....

Find something that works for you and keep it maintained. Is really that simple.

[FF0000]

Originally Posted by csmith12

Yea, just like for your chains, the wd-40 is a cleaning agent, not the lube. There is strong debate over what lube is best. Graphite, teflon, lithium, dry silicone, the list goes on.....

Find something that works for you and keep it maintained. Is really that simple.

Actually WD-40 is one of the few water displacing sprays that has a non-volitile lubricant in it. It does however have a tendency to gum up after time when it gets dryer and dirtier.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Water-displacing_spray

[dubojr1]

Originally Posted by FF0000

WD-40 should NEVER be used on locks. Sure, it works, for a while...But will eventually cause more problems down the road.

Always use graphite.

Not that I'm arguing but WD40 has multiple auto/marine locks listed in their 2000+ uses listed online...

Personally, I don't use it much. I like it as an adhesive remover more than anything else.

[kkim]

I use a teflon based lube called Triflow in anything that turns or switches. Works like a charm. Graphite is a messy, dirty lube that will stain your clothes. watch out if you get any on your key.

[PsychoNinja]

Originally Posted by Lvr

As the title of the thread says, I can;t get my gas cap to open. Basically it's as though I'm using the wrong key; the lock just won't turn. Unfortunately, it appears I can't just remove the whole assembly either because one of the screws holding it to the tank is under the lid. You can't access it unless you open the cap first.
Has anyone had this happen to them? I'm running low on fuel...
thanks

Are you turning the key in the right direction?

[alex.s]

just use your trusty BFH.

[Lvr]

Haha, I actually was gonna try the BFH, but fortunately I didn't have to.

I picked up some 'dry' lube at the auto store on my way home from work. I don't think it was actually graphite, but apparently it's pretty much the same thing (minus the black staining kkim mentioned). I sprayed some into the lock and worked the key around, which didn't seem to do much, so then I saturated the key with it and repeated, and it opened! it kept catching for a bit, but the lube seems to have worked it's way into the lock now and it's pretty smooth. still getting replaced, but at least it works for now.

I also removed the one screw that sits underneath the cap itself, so that if it ever sticks like this again while I'm away from home, I'll at least be able to remove the whole assembly and still refuel.

Moral of the story: get some dry lube and maintain the thing, especially if you ride in the rain at all. I'll be doing the same with the ignition and trunk locks as well.

[dubojr1]

Originally Posted by Lvr

Haha, I actually was gonna try the BFH, but fortunately I didn't have to.

I picked up some 'dry' lube at the auto store on my way home from work. I don't think it was actually graphite, but apparently it's pretty much the same thing (minus the black staining kkim mentioned). I sprayed some into the lock and worked the key around, which didn't seem to do much, so then I saturated the key with it and repeated, and it opened! it kept catching for a bit, but the lube seems to have worked it's way into the lock now and it's pretty smooth. still getting replaced, but at least it works for now.

I also removed the one screw that sits underneath the cap itself, so that if it ever sticks like this again while I'm away from home, I'll at least be able to remove the whole assembly and still refuel.

Moral of the story: get some dry lube and maintain the thing, especially if you ride in the rain at all. I'll be doing the same with the ignition and trunk locks as well.

Still not real sure I see a need to replace it.

[pucktoplay1]

sorry for the obvious question but.. are you pushing the key down and then turning? Took me a good 5 minutes to figure out thats how my 09 cap opens when I first got it.

[kenji_808]

i had this issue with my 09 ninja....it was still under warranty(a few days from the expiration date actually) so i took to the dealership and the mechanic said that this a common problem with kawis

All he did was grab some all purpose lube and just sprayed some in the keyhole, inserted the key and just kept trying to turn the key. Eventually it opened up.

so after that every once in awhile i use this
http://www.belray.com/bel-ray-6-1-2
in the gas cap, seat release and ignition... and so far no problems

[DKB827]

I actually had this same problem, discovered it on monday. I have been working it with WD-40 all week. Today I went out and got some PB buster soaked the cylinder let it sit took a flat head screw driver and turned it a little inserted the key and it opened up.

First thing I did was lube the mechanism.

must be a NY thing.

[fyv0h]

PB Blaster. It's magical.

[LazinCajun]

Sorry for bumping an old thread, but I figured it was better than starting a new one.

I ran into this problem today too. Tri-flow did the trick eventually, but unless I was doing something wrong, it took longer than I expected / the directions indicated. It took a good 20-30 minutes and several lubings for the lock to finally release. Maybe my lock was just in particularly bad shape, I don't know.

I wanted to add that a self-proclaimed locksmith on ninja250.org recommended staying away from Lock-ease since it isn't a normal graphite lubricant, but rather it's graphite suspended in some kind of oil solution. He claimed that it would gum up the locks after a couple weeks. I can only assume it's intended for locks that won't see much moisture.

Add me to the list of people who will be lubing the lock mechanisms at the same time I clean/lube my chain!

[Skippii]

I've had this problem a few times. Generally, you can put as much lube/WD40/graphite as you like into the keyhole and it won't do a damned bit of good if the lock has started to corrode. I had to remove the gas cap (which involes drilling a hole to remove the hidden screw) and fully disassemble the lock and scrub down all the corroded parts which were flaking apart. Then, before you reassemble, fill up and pack the whole assembly with axle or wheel bearing grease.

Think that's overkill? When you're an hour from home at a gas station and can't fill up, you'll wish you'd done it. I got stranded TWICE before I learnt my lesson.

[Lvr]

Originally Posted by Skippii

I've had this problem a few times. Generally, you can put as much lube/WD40/graphite as you like into the keyhole and it won't do a damned bit of good if the lock has started to corrode. I had to remove the gas cap (which involes drilling a hole to remove the hidden screw) and fully disassemble the lock and scrub down all the corroded parts which were flaking apart. Then, before you reassemble, fill up and pack the whole assembly with axle or wheel bearing grease.

Think that's overkill? When you're an hour from home at a gas station and can't fill up, you'll wish you'd done it. I got stranded TWICE before I learnt my lesson.

No kidding. I had it happen twice as well, although I was lucky enough not to get stranded. For people who this problem, I recommend pre-emptively removing the 'hidden' screw (the one below the cap itself) and carrying the appropriate size hex key. that way at least you can remove the cap and not get stranded in a pinch.

I got the race cap from Matt at Sportisi though, and it's great. super light (for all u weight weenies lol), no risk of binding, and IMO pretty damn sleek looking.

[agentbad]

Originally Posted by FF0000

WD-40 should NEVER be used on locks. Sure, it works, for a while...But will eventually cause more problems down the road.

Always use graphite.

Unless it's the ignition since graphite conducts electricity.