Taping up the Radiator?

[karlosdajackal]

Here is the issue. So far I have put 64 miles on my 09 Ninja 250 (Euro Fuel Injected model)

On Sunday Morning I did about 26 miles. I started the bike up, let it get warm so the temperature gauge was right in the middle of the good zone. This bike is still in the break in period so I've to keep it bellow 4000 rpm. I'm driving through a small town, keeping the revs below 4000 rpm and the temperature gauge goes right down to the bottom of the scale again. I stopped and let it warm up a bit, as soon as I'm moving for more than 1 minute its too cold again.

So I'm thinking of adding some strips of duct tape to the radiator so its not quite so efficient and allows me to keep a bit more temperature while keeping it in the 4000rpm / 37mph range.

Can anybody see any downsides? Obviously I'll need to keep an eye on the temp gauge and maybe pull over and remove some strips if it gets too warm.

FYI:
Weather reports say that the outside temperature is about 14 C or 57 Fahrenheit at best, and as low as 5 C or 41 Fahrenheit.

[coffeecandy]

So the break-in only allows you to go 37mph? And anything above that speed is not acceptable? I try to keep my revs moving while breaking in any bike as there is a noticeable vibration if held at that rpm for lengths of time.

[Alex]

Originally Posted by coffeecandy

So the break-in only allows you to go 37mph?

If one takes the owners manual literally. Many folks do feel that this particular portion of the owners manual is overly conservative. More info here:

http://www.ninjette.org/wiki/Break-in

[HKr1]

Bike has a thermostat, I wouldnt worry about it being too cold.

[MtnCruiser]

I have ridden temps down into the lower teens and never needed to tape up the radiator.

[ninjabrewer]

the thermostat is supposed to keep the engine at operating temps. If the temps are falling that much, I haven't seen what the scale is, it sounds like the thermostat is defective (stuck open maybe). Since you said that the bike is still in break in, I am going to assume that you got it new and the warranty is still in force. I would have the dealer check it out and possibly replace your thermostat. The members on here with more mechanical experience with these babies may chime in to give you more info on the subject.

nb

[karlosdajackal]

So I left the rad alone and did another 15 miles in even colder conditions.

Started let it idle for a couple of minutes. Went out riding. Before I was at 3.5k to 4k most of the time as the limit is pretty harsh and it was cooling down, like i said before if it idles it comes right up to temp, if i ride it in 6th at 4k, it drops right down, so the thermostat is working, I can see that needle going up and down.

The real problem with this is when the bike is at the bottom of its operating temperature the gear change is very clunky. Occasionally you get a false neutral between 5th and 6th. But more importantly I think having cold-ish oil on a new-ish engine/gearbox/clutch is not an ideal situation.

So this time I kept it in 4th most of the time, running up from 2k to 4.5k and back down again between the many speed bumps around the place, the temperature seemed to stay up off the bottom doing this, sat in traffic for a little bit and the temperature got up almost too high, followed by a nice 5th gear run at 4.5k back just below normal.

So I think keeping it near 4k all the time does not really generate enough heat, accelerating and engine braking seem to do the trick. Its more fun too than 2nd gear, 3.5k to 4k, change to 3rd, 3.5k to 4k, change to 4th, etc, etc.

[MtnCruiser]

Originally Posted by karlosdajackal

So I left the rad alone and did another 15 miles in even colder conditions.

Started let it idle for a couple of minutes. Went out riding. Before I was at 3.5k to 4k most of the time as the limit is pretty harsh and it was cooling down, like i said before if it idles it comes right up to temp, if i ride it in 6th at 4k, it drops right down, so the thermostat is working, I can see that needle going up and down.

The real problem with this is when the bike is at the bottom of its operating temperature the gear change is very clunky. Occasionally you get a false neutral between 5th and 6th. But more importantly I think having cold-ish oil on a new-ish engine/gearbox/clutch is not an ideal situation.

So this time I kept it in 4th most of the time, running up from 2k to 4.5k and back down again between the many speed bumps around the place, the temperature seemed to stay up off the bottom doing this, sat in traffic for a little bit and the temperature got up almost too high, followed by a nice 5th gear run at 4.5k back just below normal.

So I think keeping it near 4k all the time does not really generate enough heat, accelerating and engine braking seem to do the trick. Its more fun too than 2nd gear, 3.5k to 4k, change to 3rd, 3.5k to 4k, change to 4th, etc, etc.

Running the bike in 6th gear at 4k is actually probably lugging the engine which IMHO is worse for the engine. I have been riding for 30 years and I have owned many new bikes and I don't think that I have ever broke one in by the manufacturers recommendations and I have never had an engine failure that I could attribute to improper engine break-in.

[MtnCruiser]

Originally Posted by MtnCruiser

Running the bike in 6th gear at 4k is actually lugging the engine which IMHO is worse for the engine. I have been riding for 30 years and I have owned many new bikes and I don't think that I have ever broke one in by the manufacturers recommendations and I have never had an engine failure that I could attribute to improper engine break-in.

[ninjabrewer]

Originally Posted by karlosdajackal

So I left the rad alone and did another 15 miles in even colder conditions.

Started let it idle for a couple of minutes. Went out riding. Before I was at 3.5k to 4k most of the time as the limit is pretty harsh and it was cooling down, like i said before if it idles it comes right up to temp, if i ride it in 6th at 4k, it drops right down, so the thermostat is working, I can see that needle going up and down.

The real problem with this is when the bike is at the bottom of its operating temperature the gear change is very clunky. Occasionally you get a false neutral between 5th and 6th. But more importantly I think having cold-ish oil on a new-ish engine/gearbox/clutch is not an ideal situation.

So this time I kept it in 4th most of the time, running up from 2k to 4.5k and back down again between the many speed bumps around the place, the temperature seemed to stay up off the bottom doing this, sat in traffic for a little bit and the temperature got up almost too high, followed by a nice 5th gear run at 4.5k back just below normal.

So I think keeping it near 4k all the time does not really generate enough heat, accelerating and engine braking seem to do the trick. Its more fun too than 2nd gear, 3.5k to 4k, change to 3rd, 3.5k to 4k, change to 4th, etc, etc.

To me, is still sounds like a stuck thermostat, the engine heats up as long as you are not moving, but when you start rolling, the temps drop as cooling air flows through the radiator. If its possible, remove it while it is cold, it should be closed. If it is open, it is defective.

nb