June 1st, 2017, 10:54 PM | #41 | |
ninjette.org certified postwhore
Name: Bill
Location: Port Huron, Michigan
Join Date: Mar 2017 Motorcycle(s): 2007 Kawasaki 250 Ninja, 1982 Honda Ascot FT500 Posts: A lot.
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Quote:
It appears that you have to remove the front fairing, probably the instrument cluster and then you have access to the vertical and horizontal adjustment screws on the back of the headlight unit. My low beam is a-little low and it's staying that way. Bill |
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June 2nd, 2017, 05:15 AM | #42 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Mark
Location: Australia
Join Date: Feb 2017 Motorcycle(s): 2011 Ninja 250R Posts: 219
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Looked at 3 different bikes today, 2 supersports, GSXR 1000 and a ZX6R, and 1 sports tourer, a GSX1400.
The 1400 is the oldest and has spent time outdoors, it needs to be stripped and given a good polish and clean, it had 35k km, the others were nice and clean with relatively low km. Sadly the 1400 also just had some punter drop a "small" deposit on it just before I got there, it is also the bike I like most out of them all, it would suit my needs for transport plus it would be fun restoring it to its former glory, with a bit of customising thrown in, hopefully the deal falls over so I can swoop in on it. Going looking for more suspects tomorrow, there are plenty of bikes out there, some are reasonably priced, some are ridiculously priced. |
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June 2nd, 2017, 06:50 AM | #43 |
Guy Who Enjoys Riding
Name: Jim
Location: North Carolina
Join Date: Jul 2016 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 250 Posts: A lot.
MOTM - Oct '18, Aug '17, Aug '16
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I don't have the newgen manual(s), but my pregen manual shows plastic guides you insert a screwdriver in to do the vertical and horizontal adjustments. No disassembly is required. I'd be surprised if you really have to remove the fairing to aim a newgen headlight.
The pregen information and photos are on page 15-28 of the '87-'88 base manual (not the supplement). For a 300, there's a YouTube video that shows the vertical adjustment screws: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n-pp-1UUjqs Maybe the newgen 250s are similar. |
1 out of 1 members found this post helpful. |
June 2nd, 2017, 08:27 AM | #44 | |
ninjette.org certified postwhore
Name: Bill
Location: Port Huron, Michigan
Join Date: Mar 2017 Motorcycle(s): 2007 Kawasaki 250 Ninja, 1982 Honda Ascot FT500 Posts: A lot.
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Bill |
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June 18th, 2017, 11:41 PM | #45 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Mark
Location: Australia
Join Date: Feb 2017 Motorcycle(s): 2011 Ninja 250R Posts: 219
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So, after not getting a new bike I have decided to spend a little on the little Ninja.
I fleabayed some cheap adjustable gold rear sets (sato knock offs) and a seat cowl. I'm not expecting marvelous reviews about either, but, in saying that you get what you pay for. I'm kinda excited to try the rear sets, I cannot get comfy on the oem sets, hopefully the adjustability of the after market ones will see me right, if they fit and if they dont brake that is. I'm also keen to see how much extra storage I get with the cowl instaled, it sould double the space if my hap hazard guesstimations are correct, I'm hoping enough room for a light rain jacket, my padlock and air line. |
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June 23rd, 2017, 12:44 AM | #46 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Mark
Location: Australia
Join Date: Feb 2017 Motorcycle(s): 2011 Ninja 250R Posts: 219
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In other news I removed my pillion pegs in prep for the seat cowl.
The bracket is only temp, alloy bar 3mm x 40mm was reclaimed from the scrap bin. Once the rear sets are on I will fab up something nice (it's as solid as a brick shithouse but the only bar I could find was 40mm which looks to wide). I'm thinking 4mm x 20mm. |
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June 24th, 2017, 06:45 PM | #47 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Mark
Location: Australia
Join Date: Feb 2017 Motorcycle(s): 2011 Ninja 250R Posts: 219
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Found some 20mm x 3mm alloy.
Job done. Now I just need some parts to play with. Oh, and maybe ride it more...... |
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July 3rd, 2017, 03:30 AM | #48 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Mark
Location: Australia
Join Date: Feb 2017 Motorcycle(s): 2011 Ninja 250R Posts: 219
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Cheap eBay rear sets didn't fit, where the master cylinder mounts isn't in line with the foot brake, I would need to fabricate a spacer and move the MC rearward to line it up correctly, which seems problematic without major butchering.
Also no place for return spring or brake light switch to mount. Also mounting the shift linkage was a no go without more modification. I suppose this is what I get for trying to go cheap. I might be able to salvage some of the parts and make a mounting bracket out of some alloy plate for the master cylinder and try to sort out the link, as for the shift side, I will need to remove the stock front pillow ball and see what I can do there. At this stage they are thrown in the back of the garage to either be modified, or more likely, stripped for the fittings and binned. They did look good though when they came out of the box, LOL. Looks like they're going to be staying OEM for the foreseeable future. I hope when the seat cowl turns up it fits. I have no one but myself to blame buying cheap parts on eBay. Will I ever learn.......... |
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July 29th, 2017, 08:17 PM | #49 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Mark
Location: Australia
Join Date: Feb 2017 Motorcycle(s): 2011 Ninja 250R Posts: 219
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Rear cowl in on, quality is OK.
Only issue with supplied parts was there was no grommet supplied for the plug which holds the back of the cowl on, I made one out of a rubber spacer I had laying around. Also the rubber bum stop was rubbish, I bined it and will fill/paint the holes, if I could be bothered, maybe I may use some push in plastic plugs, I may just use some small black stickers, I may just leave them and call them speed holes. |
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July 29th, 2017, 09:06 PM | #50 |
Guy Who Enjoys Riding
Name: Jim
Location: North Carolina
Join Date: Jul 2016 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 250 Posts: A lot.
MOTM - Oct '18, Aug '17, Aug '16
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July 29th, 2017, 09:27 PM | #51 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Mark
Location: Australia
Join Date: Feb 2017 Motorcycle(s): 2011 Ninja 250R Posts: 219
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