Need opinions/advice/input on this bike v. '92 Bandit (GSF) 400

[edxmon]

Since i sold my bike I hadn't looked at any other bikes, but for some reason I jumped on CL and looked for another bandit 400 and found one.

The guy wants $1200 for it, I wanted to stay at or below $1100 but his guy wont go any lower, atleast over text/email. I already found a bunch of things as leverage:
-No original mirrors (single bar-end mirror)
-No front fender
-No air box covers (two small plastic things, right below the thank on both sides)
-No rear hugger
-Broken/cut-off heel guard on the right side
-No original handle bars
-Blown headlight bulb (least of my worries)
-I've also pointed out that the exhaust pipe seems to be wet with engine oil in one of the pictures

The bike has 16k miles and is a '92.

Here are the pictures he sent me:









I know I had made a similar thread last year, but this one is much cheaper and I think has less miles than the other one.

I still haven't test driven it but I will this coming weekend and will decide then, once I see it in person I might just walk away and save my money. What do you guys think for $1200? Guy claims it's his daily driver to work and back and that it runs "great", had the "fluids" changed just last month, is the 3rd owner and has no idea if the bike has ever had its valves adjusted.

[KawiKid860]

It's missing quite a few parts that may or may not be hard to come by, I dunno much about bandits. $1200 kinda seems a bit high to me but I'm a cheapskate. It's pretty rough though, I'd offer less and see what I could get

[edxmon]

Originally Posted by KawiKid860

It's missing quite a few parts that may or may not be hard to come by, I dunno much about bandits. $1200 kinda seems a bit high to me but I'm a cheapskate. It's pretty rough though, I'd offer less and see what I could get

KBB says $1075 in "Excellent" condition from a dealer, no quotes for private seller for bikes this old.

I tried $1 and $1.1k, obviously he said no, but that's easy over texts.

Ultimately I'll have the final say when I go check it out in person, if I feel it's worse than I thought I'll offer less, if he still doesn't budge I'll walk away.

[KawiKid860]

Didn't think to check kbb. Yeahhhh that bikes just a wee bit under excellent condition.. I'd offer $900 tops or walk. MAYBE $1000 if something about it really inspired me. Bringing cash in person tends to change peoples minds though. If a dealer had one in good condition I'd say they'd want $2500-4000 for it, here at least but our local dealer is retarded. Man I really want a naked bike

[edxmon]

Originally Posted by KawiKid860

Didn't think to check kbb. Yeahhhh that bikes just a wee bit under excellent condition.. I'd offer $900 tops or walk. MAYBE $1000 if something about it really inspired me. Bringing cash in person tends to change peoples minds though. If a dealer had one in good condition I'd say they'd want $2500-4000 for it, here at least but our local dealer is retarded. Man I really want a naked bike

For some reason bike prices in CA are much higher than anywhere else though. Supposedly our mutual "agreement" over text messages was $1200, he keeps saying some one else offered $1.3k and might buy it, this is even before I even see the bike in person and ride it. Once I get there all bets are off and I'm the one with the money. I'm almost sure I'll find some more issues with it in person, specially where that possible oil leak is.

[SMman]

I would pass on that bike because of the missing parts and fact that the owner does not know about the valves. I'm a fan of the Bandit 400 but that one is in rough shape and definitely not worth $1200 from what I can see.

[Motofool]

Originally Posted by edxmon

...........The bike has 16k miles and is a '92.
...............3rd owner........

That is very bad combination right there;.........I wouldn't touch it.

You could buy a pregen in good shape for that money.

Try this additional source of good deals:

http://advrider.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=52

[Alex]

I'd ping @AlanDog, who has spent the past few months getting a Bandit 400 sorted.

[edxmon]

Thanks guys, I think I'll still go see it. You definitely made me realize I should be more demanding with my cash.
@AlanDog where you at?

[edxmon]

Originally Posted by Alex

I'd ping @AlanDog, who has spent the past few months getting a Bandit 400 sorted.

Lol, you posted this right as I did exactly that.

I want this bike, or one like it but you guys are right there's too many bits missing for $1.2k

[BlackNinja8]

If you think 1200 is a lot of money just wait until you realize just how much dough you will have to put into it to get it all sorted out. For a daily commuter I would pass on this bike. If you have extra cash for repairs and are interested in a project bike maybe worth consideration.

But remember if you end up having to put a lot of wrench time and money to keep it running then it won't matter whether you paid 1000 or 1200. You will be equally pissed or accepting depending on your mindset going into it.

For a daily ride in that price range I would look at a ninja 250 or 500. Parts will be cheaper and more readily available. And you will need parts!

[AlanDog]

Bring a flashlight and check the inside of the fuel tank very carefully for rust. If it has any, just pass. And if this guy hasn't rebuilt the carbs himself or knows for sure that the previous owner rebuilt them... just pass or expect to rebuild them. Of course if you want to clean the tank and rebuild the carbs, you could offer him something low.

Also any sort of exhaust/intake mods can really lean out the carbs. They are known for having a midrange flat-spot. Make sure you test ride it dead cold, don't let the guy warm it up before. Then ride it till it is hot and make sure it idles well.

I've been riding mine for about a month now since getting it all sorted out (6 months!) and still a bit on the fence. It's fun but now I'm in the mode where I think the suspension needs a few tweaks, not sure I want to keep investing more money in it. I wanted it for a track bike but I'm going to be so busy this year I don't think I'll have time. I actually have it posted on CL for $2400, which I know is high, but sort of waiting for the right buyer.

Hope that helps!

[edxmon]

Originally Posted by AlanDog

Bring a flashlight and check the inside of the fuel tank very carefully for rust. If it has any, just pass. And if this guy hasn't rebuilt the carbs himself or knows for sure that the previous owner rebuilt them... just pass or expect to rebuild them. Of course if you want to clean the tank and rebuild the carbs, you could offer him something low.

Also any sort of exhaust/intake mods can really lean out the carbs. They are known for having a midrange flat-spot. Make sure you test ride it dead cold, don't let the guy warm it up before. Then ride it till it is hot and make sure it idles well.

I've been riding mine for about a month now since getting it all sorted out (6 months!) and still a bit on the fence. It's fun but now I'm in the mode where I think the suspension needs a few tweaks, not sure I want to keep investing more money in it. I wanted it for a track bike but I'm going to be so busy this year I don't think I'll have time. I actually have it posted on CL for $2400, which I know is high, but sort of waiting for the right buyer.

Hope that helps!

Hmm, he said he would fill the tank when I came to see it, would I still be able to spot rust with a full tank? Would the rust be visible right at the filler opening?

You read my mind on testing it cold, I want to know if it has a hard time starting or not.

[Joshorilla]

It looks like a bit of a dog.

I wouldn't touch it more than $700

[AlanDog]

Well my first thought is that he says he'll fill the tank and that's his excuse for warming it up. You should be able to see through the gas in the tank although it is a weirdly shaped tank, you'll just be able to peak at the edges (and straight down). One way these bikes are 'fixed' when they are cold is by running them really rich on the idle mixture. So be sure it can idle hot as well.

[edxmon]

Originally Posted by Joshorilla

It looks like a bit of a dog.

I wouldn't touch it more than $700

lol, input accepted

Originally Posted by AlanDog

Well my first thought is that he says he'll fill the tank and that's his excuse for warming it up. You should be able to see through the gas in the tank although it is a weirdly shaped tank, you'll just be able to peak at the edges (and straight down). One way these bikes are 'fixed' when they are cold is by running them really rich on the idle mixture. So be sure it can idle hot as well.

10-4. May I ask you a few questions?

-Around what RPM should the bike idle at?
-Can you point to me where the idle adjustment screw is?
-IF there is rust in the tank, what would be the cost of a repair like that?

[Alex]

Originally Posted by edxmon

-IF there is rust in the tank, what would be the cost of a repair like that?

My : If you're talking about work on a 20 year old bike, the cost of each repair is the total of the parts needed to fix it, as the labor costs are never worth it. If the intent is to get almost any professional help in getting the bike running other than work you plan to do yourself, I'd look elsewhere for a bike.

[BlackNinja8]

Originally Posted by edxmon

Hmm, he said he would fill the tank when I came to see it, would I still be able to spot rust with a full tank? Would the rust be visible right at the filler opening?

You read my mind on testing it cold, I want to know if it has a hard time starting or not.

Just remember, he wants to sell you that bike way more than you want to buy it. If you have conditions for inspection, then the seller should be willing to meet those conditions in order for you to make a proper assesment.

Just tell him you want to test the bike cold and you want to inspect the tank (empty). If he has a problemt with either of those then you can be near 100% certain that there is a problem he is intending to hide.

[edxmon]

Originally Posted by Alex

My : If you're talking about work on a 20 year old bike, the cost of each repair is the total of the parts needed to fix it, as the labor costs are never worth it. If the intent is to get almost any professional help in getting the bike running other than work you plan to do yourself, I'd look elsewhere for a bike.

I appreciate your input, and agree with you on all points. The thing is that supposedly the bike is in "perfect" running condition. My plan IS to work on it myself (with the expectation that it runs decently enough now), my fear and I think a reasonable one is that something might come up that is above my abilities and I won't have a choice. For $1000 I'm more willing to take that gamble, $1200 though is stretching it.

I already got a taste of the ideal bike with my '08 250R. All I ever did was chain cleanings and an oil change for the year I had it (as far as basic maint. goes). I feel I'm ready and that it would benefit me to have a bike that need a little bit more from me. Does that make any sense? lol I feel like that may sound crazy

Originally Posted by BlackNinja8

Just remember, he wants to sell you that bike way more than you want to buy it. If you have conditions for inspection, then the seller should be willing to meet those conditions in order for you to make a proper assesment.

Just tell him you want to test the bike cold and you want to inspect the tank (empty). If he has a problemt with either of those then you can be near 100% certain that there is a problem he is intending to hide.

Absolutely, many duplicate posts on CL from only the last week. Also he just texted me asking if I was still interested, apparently the dude "offering $1300" wanted to do it in payments.

Worst case scenario I waste a little time and gas going up there and don't buy it. Best case, I show up, check it out and like it less in person than I did in pictures, offer less and walk away with the bike below his current price and much closer to what I think it's worth.

[SMman]

Seems like a step backwards to go from a 2008 Ninja 250 to a 1991 Bandit 400. I love the Bandit but it is 17 years older than the bike you had and will require much more maintenance. If you want a bike to tinker with, I would have a newer bike as well, so you can enjoy riding it and take a break from cursing at the older bike.

[BlackNinja8]

Originally Posted by edxmon

I appreciate your input, and agree with you on all points. The thing is is that supposedly the bike is in "perfect" running condition. My plan IS to work on it myself, my fear and I think a reasonable one is that something might come up that is above my abilities and I won't have a choice. For $1000 I'm more willing to take that gamble, $1200 though is stretching it.

I already got a taste of the ideal bike with my '08 250R. All I ever did was chain cleanings and an oil change for the year I had it (as far as basic maint. goes). I feel I'm ready and that it would benefit me to have a bike that need a little bit more from me. Does that make any sense? lol I feel like that may sound crazy

Sounds like you have a good attitude about it. I'd say as long as you know what you are getting yourself into...

I had an old boat that I bought as my first boat and it was such a PITA to work on because the manufacturer went under so parts were near extinct. Also, you have to deal with unforseen issues like rusted bolt heads breaking off, brittle plastic parts snapping while removing them, stripped screws, chalking oxidized parts, etc. etc. All of those things can turn 1hr repairs into day long, multiple hardware store trip, headaches.

How will you be using the bike? Everyday commuter or occasional sport? Project bike?

[edxmon]

Originally Posted by SMman

Seems like a step backwards to go from a 2008 Ninja 250 to a 1991 Bandit 400. I love the Bandit but it is 17 years older than the bike you had and will require much more maintenance. If you want a bike to tinker with, I would have a newer bike as well, so you can enjoy riding it and take a break from cursing at the older bike.

Haha, can't argue with you there. I don't know if it's the rarity of the bike, the rarity of it or a combination of both that really got my interest since I saw @AlanDog get one. The thing is is that this bike will only (initially, lol) cost 1/3 of what I sold my ninja for,so that's kind of nice. Yea, it is 21 years old but it only has 5k miles more than my ninja did, which could be either good or bad. Also you have to realize from what I know so far, I don't expect the bike to be falling apart. Yea, it looks ratty, even I realize that but my minimum expectation when I get there is that it runs well and is at least safe to ride as it is right now.

Originally Posted by BlackNinja8

Sounds like you have a good attitude about it. I'd say as long as you know what you are getting yourself into...

I had an old boat that I bought as my first boat and it was such a PITA to work on because the manufacturer went under so parts were near extinct. Also, you have to deal with unforseen issues like rusted bolt heads breaking off, brittle plastic parts snapping while removing them, stripped screws, chalking oxidized parts, etc. etc. All of those things can turn 1hr repairs into day long, multiple hardware store trip, headaches.

How will you be using the bike? Everyday commuter or occasional sport? Project bike?

Ideally the same as my prior one: Mostly weekend recreational riding, but if the weather is right and I'm in a hurry and not carrying much stuff maybe ride around town for errands and maybe school every once in a while (not very often since my backpack + gym bag is too much).

[SMman]

My advice would be to pony up a bit more money and look for a naked SV650 instead. I have seat time on a 1991 Bandit 400 and owned a 1999 SV650 for 4 years. The Bandit is a fun bike but the SV is a much better machine. Notice that AlanDog is already talking about selling his. Having an old bike seems like a good idea, but often isn't.

[edxmon]

Originally Posted by SMman

My advice would be to pony up a bit more money and look for a naked SV650 instead. I have seat time on a 1991 Bandit 400 and owned a 1999 SV650 for 4 years. The Bandit is a fun bike but the SV is a much better machine. Notice that AlanDog is already talking about selling his. Having an old bike seems like a good idea, but often isn't.

Definitely listening to all of you who are strongly suggesting to pass on this bike, I really appreciate it and value your input since some of you have owned this bike and have probably learned things I have yet to.

Matter of fact because of your post I looked up SV650s on CL thinking I wouldn't find anything below $3k, but I found a 2001 non running one for $1500, supposedly only because it's been sitting for 4 months. If I can get the SV for around $1200 I would be happy, what do you guys think of this new idea?

http://sandiego.craigslist.org/ssd/mcy/3655131091.html

looks like it might have at least a yoshi slip on, I could sell that and make some money for repairs

[SMman]

Used bikes are definitely more expensive in your area because I've spotted a few nice SV650s in the $2500 range.

That 2001 SV would not stop running because it sat for 4 months. My bikes sit for 6-7 months every year and fire right up in the spring. My guess is it wasn't running well 4 months ago. You could ask if he keeps the battery charged, added fuel stabilizer to the gas, changed the oil, etc.

SVs are great bikes and there's a huge aftermarket support and lots of stock parts readily available. Many GSX-R parts fit as well. www.svrider.com is a good spot for info.

I don't mean to rain on your parade with the Bandit. I went through a similar experience when I was searching to buy a Yamaha FZR400. I bought a brand new 1989 model back in 1991 and wanted to own one again in 1999. After searching, all I could find was beat up, neglected models or race prepped bikes with zero street parts. I was told the SV650 was a better machine so I ended up buying a new one in 1999 and never looked back.

Good luck with whatever bike you choose and make sure to ask for maintenance history, number of owners, etc.

[BlackNinja8]

I've got an 07 SV650 and I can't recommend this bike enough. If you can raise your budget even slightly you can get a very good one. $1200 is a little low, $2000 is doable and anywhere in between will require patience and negotiation (and probably some wrench time).

[edxmon]

Originally Posted by SMman

Used bikes are definitely more expensive in your area because I've spotted a few nice SV650s in the $2500 range.

That 2001 SV would not stop running because it sat for 4 months. My bikes sit for 6-7 months every year and fire right up in the spring. My guess is it wasn't running well 4 months ago. You could ask if he keeps the battery charged, added fuel stabilizer to the gas, changed the oil, etc.

SVs are great bikes and there's a huge aftermarket support and lots of stock parts readily available. Many GSX-R parts fit as well. www.svrider.com is a good spot for info.

I don't mean to rain on your parade with the Bandit. I went through a similar experience when I was searching to buy a Yamaha FZR400. I bought a brand new 1989 model back in 1991 and wanted to own one again in 1999. After searching, all I could find was beat up, neglected models or race prepped bikes with zero street parts. I was told the SV650 was a better machine so I ended up buying a new one in 1999 and never looked back.

Good luck with whatever bike you choose and make sure to ask for maintenance history, number of owners, etc.

Thank for all the input, if anything you guys are trying to help me out. Yea here in CA all prices double, specially for bikes and riding season is about to start. I planned to wait until the winter to buy a bike but I got the bug right away. I'm waiting for a reply on the SV and im sure I can have him drop the price at least a few hundred.

[BlackNinja8]

For example, $2000 would get you this '99 which appears to be in excellenct condition.

http://newjersey.craigslist.org/mcy/3581937781.html

[edxmon]

Originally Posted by BlackNinja8

For example, $2000 would get you this '99 which appears to be in excellenct condition.

http://newjersey.craigslist.org/mcy/3581937781.html

Originally Posted by BlackNinja8

I've got an 07 SV650 and I can't recommend this bike enough. If you can raise your budget even slightly you can get a very good one. $1200 is a little low, $2000 is doable and anywhere in between will require patience and negotiation (and probably some wrench time).

Haha, maybe in Jersey, but not in San Diego.

I'm not afraid of a little wrenching, I like to believe that's where the best deals lie, where people just don't want to deal with the bike and it turns out it was a minor problem.

[BlackNinja8]

Good luck. If you decide on the SV I'd be happy to put a wanted post in the for sale section. Just PM me and send me what you want it to say.

[SMman]

That one in Jersey is exactly what I had in mind for you. It might be worth shipping the bike if prices in your area are so insane. I`ve ridden both the naked and S model half faired bikes and would choose the naked bike, although they were less popular here in Canada. A quick search where I spend my summers revealed a 2007 for $3200 Canadian or best offer. Mileage from kms converts to 19K miles in case you were wondering.

http://newbrunswick.kijiji.ca/c-cars...AdIdZ426218513

[BlackNinja8]

Here is one in your area. Looks pretty cool:
http://www.svrider.com/forum/showthread.php?t=176210

[edxmon]

Originally Posted by BlackNinja8

Here is one in your area. Looks pretty cool:
http://www.svrider.com/forum/showthread.php?t=176210

It's sold and it has a softball size dent in the gas tank, haha.

I'll keep my eyes out for an SV. I'm starting to get farther away from the idea of the bandit...that is unless he lets it go for $900 lol

[KawiKid860]

Can't go wrong with an SV, it's #2 on my list of bikes I'm going to attempt to upgrade to. #1 is a CBR600F4i. I've really been falling in love with naked bikes lately, the guys on a couple forums even said the naked SVs weren't bad for touring, despite the extra wind

[AlanDog]

Pre-2003 SV650s have carbs, 2003+ are fuel-injected, keep that in mind. My next dream bike as well! The midrange torque versus a 400cc inline-4 makes it much better for a daily rider.

What my Bandit 400 purchase taught me is how easy it is to fall in love with a bike and then check out someone selling that model wearing rose-colored glasses. I was emotionally attached to the bike before I ever saw it in person. And so I test rode it a good 15-20 minutes and it ran great "what could be wrong with it?"

Many things. The seller didn't know much about bikes, the guy he bought it from apparently didn't know much. From the bandit forums my experience is just typical. You wouldn't believe how many threads just end... people give up. I guess I should be happy now as it's running great, but now it's like, uh, oh, the fork oil needs to be changed, and I might as well upgrade the springs, and then I'll have to dial in the preload... then... etc. etc. Just don't have time for another project.

[BlackNinja8]

Originally Posted by KawiKid860

Can't go wrong with an SV, it's #2 on my list of bikes I'm going to attempt to upgrade to. #1 is a CBR600F4i. I've really been falling in love with naked bikes lately, the guys on a couple forums even said the naked SVs weren't bad for touring, despite the extra wind

I don't think you will want to do much touring on the baked versions. Some have converted from handle bars to coupons on the nakeds and do okay with the more aggressive. Position. But if you are going to keep the upright riding position I think you would be okay for commuting but it wouldn't be ideal for distance runs. You could always purchase a bolt on givi touring screen when needed though. But for most riding the mid range torque of the ev cant be beat at these price points.

[SMman]

A friend of mine did a cross country trip on a naked 2003 SV650. He did have a Givi windscreen. He said the bike was super comfortable during the long trip.

The naked bikes are geared differently and have lower footpegs. I actually added the lower pegs to my faired S model to gain some more legroom for my weekly 3 hour commutes. I also added a Corbin seat, Givi topcase, and Zero Gravity double bubble to make it a great touring bike. I parted out the mods when I sold the bike and it ended up becoming a race bike. That's what I love about the SV; it can be many different bikes by swapping your modifications.

[chef]

I would strongly suggest to pass on the Bandit.
Notorious for carb problems,rusty tanks & valve adjustments. Have a look at http://forums.banditalley.net/index.php?action=forum ,tons of useful info.
I also learnt the hard way,loved the bandit before even seeing it & thinking all the problems would be semi easy to fix,my daily ride has resulted in me putting several hundred miles on the clock in 8 years & many days walking to work.
Most parts are still available but everything i needed had to be shipped,parts from the U.S,Australia,Singapore & Hawaii.
When it runs its quick & handles relatively well for the weight,considering the age of these bikes also, but there are many options in the same range.
I am hoping i will be lucky enough to unload the Bandit in the next few days at about 60% of my purchase price,i dont want to think how many thousands i put into this pit over the years

[Whiskey]

The bandit 400 wasn't a popular machine, 600s are everywhere. For that reason I'd suggest a 600.

From what I gather they're pretty prone to rust if exposed to the elements, not anywhere as bad as say a hyodung, but not the most weather resistant machines (Ignore that, you're in San Diego...)

[AlanDog]

Originally Posted by edxmon

-Around what RPM should the bike idle at?
-Can you point to me where the idle adjustment screw is?
-IF there is rust in the tank, what would be the cost of a repair like that?

Just from the tachometer, I have it set around 1200-1500, Suzuki spec I think is around 1100. The idle speed adjustment screw is just below the carbs on the left side. The idle mixture screws are directly under each carb.

Idle mixture is extremely sensitive, like 1/2 a turn can cause your bike not to run. Although I got a ton of help from the bandit forum from a couple people, honestly most people there are burnt out from the same questions for the past 15 years and no one is motivated to create a FAQ to cover the carbs; "use the search" is all they say.

Gas tank: I did like a 5 day vinegar soak, rinsed with water then acetone, then used the Caswell epoxy tank coating kit ($45, http://www.caswellplating.com/restor...al-1-pint.html). Worked great, be sure and follow the directions carefully.

Despite all the negatives, I have to say I am getting a consistent 60 miles per gallon on the bike now, both commuting and in the twisties, with of course more power than a 250 especially at higher speeds. I think it's a great fit for smaller riders, the seat is lower and the peg-to-seat height is actually smaller than a pregen.