Moving rear tire forwards

[Tylorwashere]

So I may have cut just one link too many off my new chain, I cut it to match my old one, totally blanking on the fact that the old chain had probably never been changed by the previous owner and was stretched to hell. Anyway I need like a half a link, and I can see that the axle will move a little more than that forward, but no amount of kicking the tire will move it forward. Is there a trick to doing this?

I really dont want to take it off again, it was not fun putting it back on alone after changing the rear sprocket

[Alex]

Are the rear axle adjusters set to minimum? I assume the axle is loose and the adjusters (screws) are turned all the way in before you are kicking the tire?

[rubber side down]

If it is a rivet link chain, buy just another rivet link. I have made same mistake before. 2 rivets next to each other. You need a whole link to right the wrong not half link.

[adouglas]

What Alex said.

Changing wheels is not a big deal once you've done it once or twice.

Pro tip 1: Wear a pair of boots you don't mind getting scuffed. Sit on a low stool behind the bike and rest the wheel on your toe to keep it in line as you insert the axle. I've done many wheel changes that way, both front and rear.

A year or so ago I bought a Pit Bull tire wedge, which I have to say is a terrific innovation. Makes the whole process utterly painless, but is way overkill if you're not routinely taking your wheels off.

Pro tip 2: Have a rubber mallet or dead-blow hammer within arm's reach. Once you get the axle through one side of the swingarm and started into the wheel, just give it a few whacks.

[Tylorwashere]

thanks everyone. I figured out the the bracket that holds the rear brakes in place was holding it up, I loosened that and it moved all the way forwards, but it still wasn't enough. I think I'm just gonna buy another master and put a piece of the new chain that I cut off between them, and hopefully After riding it for awhile it will stretch and I can take the second master out

[CC Cowboy]

Originally Posted by adouglas

What Alex said.

Changing wheels is not a big deal once you've done it once or twice.

Pro tip 1: Wear a pair of boots you don't mind getting scuffed. Sit on a low stool behind the bike and rest the wheel on your toe to keep it in line as you insert the axle. I've done many wheel changes that way, both front and rear.
.

Great idea.

I have found, after changing wheels hundreds of times, that if you put something under the wheel, at the exact height it sits (like a piece of wood), before you take it off, you just put the wheel back of the wood to put it back on and it is at the correct height.

[Triple Jim]

It seems unlikely that someone removed a link from the old chain when it wore, so I would think that if you copied the number of links correctly, you should be able to get the new one on. Are you sure the axle is now all the way forward? Every 1/8" forward gets you 1/4" more chain at the joint.

[Tylorwashere]

Originally Posted by Triple Jim

It seems unlikely that someone removed a link from the old chain when it wore, so I would think that if you copied the number of links correctly, you should be able to get the new one on. Are you sure the axle is now all the way forward? Every 1/8" forward gets you 1/4" more chain at the joint.

I tried working it around both sprockets and getting it to connect in a few different positions. I thought the same thing but the adjusters are definitely all the way forward

[DannoXYZ]

On some bikes, I've milled the slot in swingarm forwards about 10mm to remove one chain-link and shorten wheelbase. Then chop 10mm off end of swingarm so adjuster are within adjustment range.