Service

razorgamez · February 23rd, 2012, 11:08 PM

Hey Guys,
For the first time ever, I am going to be servicing the bike myself. Just wanted to know a few things:

a) Which oil to use?
b) I noticed the coolant is low, so which one to purchase
c) Other than refilling the coolant, changing the oil and cleaning the chain is there anything else that needs to be done at 8k miles?

squaregamer476 · February 23rd, 2012, 11:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by razorgamez

Hey Guys,
For the first time ever, I am going to be servicing the bike myself. Just wanted to know a few things:

a) Which oil to use?
b) I noticed the coolant is low, so which one to purchase
c) Other than refilling the coolant, changing the oil and cleaning the chain is there anything else that needs to be done at 8k miles?

cool. im close to 7500-8000 mi also. Ill be following your thread.

shiftyninja · February 23rd, 2012, 11:28 PM

The oil question can start a fire, but many members including myself like Shell Rotella T6 Full Synthetic 10w 40. However if you cannot be consistent with using only synthetic just use a good 10w 40 and change often. The reason being is that synthetic leaves a thin film on engine parts and when you use conventional, it removes it. As for a filter, I use Purolator ML16812 available at Pep-Boys and NAPA.

Chain should be lubed at least every 400-600 miles as stated in the manual and cleaned as necessary. I've found Teflon based lube to works just as well as the wax I use(d) and doesn't cover your chain in crud.

You should possibly either take it in or check the valve lash. Would also change plugs NGK CR8E and sync the carbs after the valve check, if needed. Other than that possibly new brakes or tires are in order if you haven't replaced them already.

Am I forgetting anything guys?

EDIT - As far as coolant goes, just buy a bottle of GM DexCool (approx $13 at Walmart) and top of as needed.

headshrink · February 23rd, 2012, 11:47 PM

I also use Shell Rotella T6 Full Synthetic 10w 40, and get it at Wallie World. I used to get the big jug, but sometimes I prefer to get the regular quarts.... depends on what I have on hand, and what I have to put used oil in.

I use the PS4941 filter from Riebes. In fact, I buy the entire stock every time I go.... they only stock two at a time.

I like to change my oil between 1K and 2K. When I started riding/wrenching, I read a LOT on oil. I read one scientific study that said that motorcycles engines that share oil with the transmission chop up those oil molecules very fast. IIRC, after 600-800 miles the oil loses most of it's protection.... I don't recall the reference, and have a headache so I don't feel like looking. Anyways, that is what I do.

For coolant, I just buy the premixed stuff from Auto Zone. Since we only use a small amount, I don't mind paying a little extra for premixed, and it wouldn't be worth it to go to the grocery store for a bottle of distilled water.

Your owner's manual will tell you the recommended service at 8K, but off hand I believe this is when you have your first valve lash check/adjust. Most, however, don't need to actually adjust them until their next scheduled valve check. If you are going to start working on your own bike, you need, need, NEED a service manual! I got mine for a discount from one of the online parts suppliers.

headshrink · February 23rd, 2012, 11:48 PM

Alex will be moving this to the tech section in: 5, 4, 3.....

shiftyninja · February 24th, 2012, 12:04 AM

Headshrink is correct, except in regards to the oil. Oil does not break-down at specified thermal range, especially synthetic. Oil just gets dirty. What do you think the "NextGen Green" oil is? Filtered "Recycled" oil. We take used oil in, they filter it and sell it back to us. If your oil gets black at 600 miles, checking/replacing your air filter, even considering a different brand of oil filter would be a good place to start.

I usually change it every 2500-3000mi but never go over 4000mi. I use a good filter and only synthetic oil.

koenigcitizen · February 24th, 2012, 07:47 AM

Add me to the Shell Rotella T6 Full Synthetic 10w 40 camp.

Alex · February 24th, 2012, 09:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by headshrink

Alex will be moving this to the tech section in: 5, 4, 3.....

OP: Look at the stickies in this section, there is a link to the standard maintenance schedule, along with a number of helpful DIY's that might relate to your questions.

/moved

etiainen · February 24th, 2012, 10:00 AM

I've only seen T6 in 5w-40?

headshrink · February 24th, 2012, 11:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by etiainen

I've only seen T6 in 5w-40?

I'm not at home to check, but it is a possible mistype, which I repeated. I think you may actually be right; and if so, that is what we all use.

etiainen · February 24th, 2012, 11:52 AM

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...110944&ci_sku=

No big deal, just wanted to make sure I can read lol

koenigcitizen · February 24th, 2012, 12:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by etiainen

I've only seen T6 in 5w-40?

Yes, you are correct. I just skimmed the other guy's post and copy-pasted it. so lazy....

It is Shell Rotella T6 Full Synthetic 5W-40.

You have to pay attention to the bottle, because there is also a Rotella Synthetic Blend, and that bottle looks very similar.

EDIT:noticed previous replies before me late. It has already been answered

razorgamez · February 24th, 2012, 01:26 PM

sorry about that, I do have the manual, what I intended from the thread was to check if any one does anything extra thats not mentioned in the manual.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Alex

OP: Look at the stickies in this section, there is a link to the standard maintenance schedule, along with a number of helpful DIY's that might relate to your questions.

/moved

etiainen · February 24th, 2012, 02:35 PM

Has anyone ever proved that?

etiainen · February 24th, 2012, 03:20 PM

No proof == internet speculation

headshrink · February 24th, 2012, 03:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by etiainen

No proof == internet speculation

You are welcome to prove it.

etiainen · February 24th, 2012, 03:42 PM

Yay intarwebs

I think the other part of this discussion is the whole, how long to wait before putting synthetic in.

outasight20 · February 24th, 2012, 04:28 PM

As long as you replace the oil every 3-5K miles, there's no need to spend the extra money on synthetic IMO.

Has anyone ever heard of an engine failing due to an oil related cause? The answer is no.

etiainen · February 25th, 2012, 05:45 AM

On an oil related side note. New bike actually takes a 30 weight oil now. Suggestions?

I'm not too keen on getting Redline or Motul racing oils, but the choices for a synthetic 5w/10w-30 are lacking:'(

shiftyninja · March 28th, 2012, 01:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by outasight20

As long as you replace the oil every 3-5K miles, there's no need to spend the extra money on synthetic IMO.

Has anyone ever heard of an engine failing due to an oil related cause? The answer is no.

See what I mean about starting a fire?

Actually, yes. 1.) People not changing oil 2.) Using the wrong/inadequate type and/or filter. Those are oil related causes. The only reason you need to change your oil is because it gets contaminated with gas, and the exhaust gases that occur in combustion.

While I will not say which one is better, I'll explain why some prefer synthetic. Synthetic actually coats cylinder walls and other engine parts better, which means less engine wear at start up. It also evaporates less over time compared to conventional.

IMO I would rather have something that is better at heat on an engine that turns from 7-12k RPM's. I have noticed that with synthetic after a couple hour freeway run I don't have to add oil as much as with conventional. However, changing your oil often and using a good filter is more important than the the brand or type.

A 30w oil would protect less on start up (cold) and is not recommended according to the service manual. So naturally, I wouldn't recommend it, but if you do I'd go for Mobile 1 or Rotella T6 conventional. Those worked well when I was broke at times.

Skippii · March 28th, 2012, 02:23 AM

I like rotella synthetic for one main reason: the oil won't break down before 6,000 miles, which is also how long the filter lasts, so I don't have to worry about changing either of them until another 6k miles.
Posted via Mobile Device

shiftyninja · March 28th, 2012, 06:48 AM

For some reason I have a habit of saying T6 when that's conventional not a synthetic. I just hit 6.5 k. Yes you are right it does handle heat better. I bought the bike with 1082 miles and change the oil 3 times since then. I go usually 2-3k miles then change it out. But I love that if I want I can. Go double my change intervals. At 7k I will change oil and check valve lash to see if they do indeed go longer between adjustments.
Posted via Mobile Device

oreX · March 28th, 2012, 08:38 AM

What do you do when switching from regular to synthetic? If you just drain the oil out, wont there be some regular oil left in the engine case that will mix with the synthetic? Is this ok? Do you usually "rinse" out the engine with some synthetic oil when changing types?

shiftyninja · March 28th, 2012, 08:45 AM

I usually pour a little through, but the amount left in is not that big of a deal.
just use a good filter. I wouldn't recommend FRAM as I've had a couple filters start to disintegrate.

February 23rd, 2012, 11:08 PM	#1
razorgamez ninjette.org member Name: Neal Location: San Fran Join Date: Oct 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2008 ninja 250r Posts: 99	Service Hey Guys, For the first time ever, I am going to be servicing the bike myself. Just wanted to know a few things: a) Which oil to use? b) I noticed the coolant is low, so which one to purchase c) Other than refilling the coolant, changing the oil and cleaning the chain is there anything else that needs to be done at 8k miles? __________________________________________________ ....(O_O)....(O_o)....(o_O)....(-_-)

February 23rd, 2012, 11:47 PM	#4
headshrink ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Bob Location: CA Join Date: Dec 2008 Motorcycle(s): '08 Ninja 250r, '14 CBR500r Posts: A lot.	I also use Shell Rotella T6 Full Synthetic 10w 40, and get it at Wallie World. I used to get the big jug, but sometimes I prefer to get the regular quarts.... depends on what I have on hand, and what I have to put used oil in. I use the PS4941 filter from Riebes. In fact, I buy the entire stock every time I go.... they only stock two at a time. I like to change my oil between 1K and 2K. When I started riding/wrenching, I read a LOT on oil. I read one scientific study that said that motorcycles engines that share oil with the transmission chop up those oil molecules very fast. IIRC, after 600-800 miles the oil loses most of it's protection.... I don't recall the reference, and have a headache so I don't feel like looking. Anyways, that is what I do. For coolant, I just buy the premixed stuff from Auto Zone. Since we only use a small amount, I don't mind paying a little extra for premixed, and it wouldn't be worth it to go to the grocery store for a bottle of distilled water. Your owner's manual will tell you the recommended service at 8K, but off hand I believe this is when you have your first valve lash check/adjust. Most, however, don't need to actually adjust them until their next scheduled valve check. If you are going to start working on your own bike, you need, need, NEED a service manual! I got mine for a discount from one of the online parts suppliers. __________________________________________________ Honda Interceptor VFR800 DLX (2014, 8th gen) Honda CBR500r (2014) - FOR SALE Kawi Ninja 250r (2008) - Restored and passed-down within family, only to be abandoned

February 23rd, 2012, 11:48 PM	#5
headshrink ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Bob Location: CA Join Date: Dec 2008 Motorcycle(s): '08 Ninja 250r, '14 CBR500r Posts: A lot.	Alex will be moving this to the tech section in: 5, 4, 3..... __________________________________________________ Honda Interceptor VFR800 DLX (2014, 8th gen) Honda CBR500r (2014) - FOR SALE Kawi Ninja 250r (2008) - Restored and passed-down within family, only to be abandoned

February 24th, 2012, 07:47 AM	#7
koenigcitizen Russian Ninja :) Name: Andrei Location: Ocean City, MD Join Date: Oct 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2012 Triumph Street Triple R, 2009 Yamaha FZ6, 2010 Kawi 250r (sold) Posts: 335	Add me to the Shell Rotella T6 Full Synthetic 10w 40 camp. __________________________________________________ 2009 Fazer (2009 Yamaha FZ6), 2012 Triumph Street Triple R

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February 23rd, 2012, 11:28 PM	#3
shiftyninja ninjette.org member Name: Thomas Location: AZ Join Date: Nov 2011 Motorcycle(s): 09' EX250J, 01' EX250R Posts: 33	The oil question can start a fire, but many members including myself like Shell Rotella T6 Full Synthetic 10w 40. However if you cannot be consistent with using only synthetic just use a good 10w 40 and change often. The reason being is that synthetic leaves a thin film on engine parts and when you use conventional, it removes it. As for a filter, I use Purolator ML16812 available at Pep-Boys and NAPA. Chain should be lubed at least every 400-600 miles as stated in the manual and cleaned as necessary. I've found Teflon based lube to works just as well as the wax I use(d) and doesn't cover your chain in crud. You should possibly either take it in or check the valve lash. Would also change plugs NGK CR8E and sync the carbs after the valve check, if needed. Other than that possibly new brakes or tires are in order if you haven't replaced them already. Am I forgetting anything guys? EDIT - As far as coolant goes, just buy a bottle of GM DexCool (approx $13 at Walmart) and top of as needed.

February 24th, 2012, 12:04 AM	#6
shiftyninja ninjette.org member Name: Thomas Location: AZ Join Date: Nov 2011 Motorcycle(s): 09' EX250J, 01' EX250R Posts: 33	Headshrink is correct, except in regards to the oil. Oil does not break-down at specified thermal range, especially synthetic. Oil just gets dirty. What do you think the "NextGen Green" oil is? Filtered "Recycled" oil. We take used oil in, they filter it and sell it back to us. If your oil gets black at 600 miles, checking/replacing your air filter, even considering a different brand of oil filter would be a good place to start. I usually change it every 2500-3000mi but never go over 4000mi. I use a good filter and only synthetic oil.

February 24th, 2012, 10:00 AM	#9
etiainen CBR250R Traitor Name: Jon Location: Greater Philadelphia Area Join Date: Jun 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2011 Red CBR250R 2009 Ninja 250r SE(With 2008 Fairings)(sold) Posts: 924	I've only seen T6 in 5w-40?

February 24th, 2012, 11:52 AM	#11
etiainen CBR250R Traitor Name: Jon Location: Greater Philadelphia Area Join Date: Jun 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2011 Red CBR250R 2009 Ninja 250r SE(With 2008 Fairings)(sold) Posts: 924	http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...110944&ci_sku= No big deal, just wanted to make sure I can read lol

February 24th, 2012, 02:35 PM	#14
etiainen CBR250R Traitor Name: Jon Location: Greater Philadelphia Area Join Date: Jun 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2011 Red CBR250R 2009 Ninja 250r SE(With 2008 Fairings)(sold) Posts: 924	Has anyone ever proved that?

February 24th, 2012, 03:20 PM	#15
etiainen CBR250R Traitor Name: Jon Location: Greater Philadelphia Area Join Date: Jun 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2011 Red CBR250R 2009 Ninja 250r SE(With 2008 Fairings)(sold) Posts: 924	No proof == internet speculation

February 24th, 2012, 03:42 PM	#17
etiainen CBR250R Traitor Name: Jon Location: Greater Philadelphia Area Join Date: Jun 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2011 Red CBR250R 2009 Ninja 250r SE(With 2008 Fairings)(sold) Posts: 924	Yay intarwebs I think the other part of this discussion is the whole, how long to wait before putting synthetic in.

February 24th, 2012, 04:28 PM	#18
outasight20 ninjette.org member Name: Weezy Location: Massachusetts Join Date: May 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2005 Yamaha FZ6 Posts: 169	As long as you replace the oil every 3-5K miles, there's no need to spend the extra money on synthetic IMO. Has anyone ever heard of an engine failing due to an oil related cause? The answer is no.

February 25th, 2012, 05:45 AM	#19
etiainen CBR250R Traitor Name: Jon Location: Greater Philadelphia Area Join Date: Jun 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2011 Red CBR250R 2009 Ninja 250r SE(With 2008 Fairings)(sold) Posts: 924	On an oil related side note. New bike actually takes a 30 weight oil now. Suggestions? I'm not too keen on getting Redline or Motul racing oils, but the choices for a synthetic 5w/10w-30 are lacking:'(

March 28th, 2012, 02:23 AM	#21
Skippii Milkshake Drinker Name: Skippii Location: Richmond, Va Join Date: Aug 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2007 Orange DRZ400-S, 2005 Ninja 250 & Custom Thundercunt Dirt Chopper Posts: A lot.	I like rotella synthetic for one main reason: the oil won't break down before 6,000 miles, which is also how long the filter lasts, so I don't have to worry about changing either of them until another 6k miles. Posted via Mobile Device

March 28th, 2012, 06:48 AM	#22
shiftyninja ninjette.org member Name: Thomas Location: AZ Join Date: Nov 2011 Motorcycle(s): 09' EX250J, 01' EX250R Posts: 33	For some reason I have a habit of saying T6 when that's conventional not a synthetic. I just hit 6.5 k. Yes you are right it does handle heat better. I bought the bike with 1082 miles and change the oil 3 times since then. I go usually 2-3k miles then change it out. But I love that if I want I can. Go double my change intervals. At 7k I will change oil and check valve lash to see if they do indeed go longer between adjustments. Posted via Mobile Device

March 28th, 2012, 08:38 AM	#23
oreX ninjette.org member Name: Zach Location: Orlando, fl Join Date: Dec 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2013 636 - ABS Posts: 173 Blog Entries: 1	What do you do when switching from regular to synthetic? If you just drain the oil out, wont there be some regular oil left in the engine case that will mix with the synthetic? Is this ok? Do you usually "rinse" out the engine with some synthetic oil when changing types?

March 28th, 2012, 08:45 AM	#24
shiftyninja ninjette.org member Name: Thomas Location: AZ Join Date: Nov 2011 Motorcycle(s): 09' EX250J, 01' EX250R Posts: 33	I usually pour a little through, but the amount left in is not that big of a deal. just use a good filter. I wouldn't recommend FRAM as I've had a couple filters start to disintegrate.