Rebuild Bike is officially a project bike

[antwan718]

So i went today to start the restart process of my ninja 250. This comes after a long and painful process of waiting for single specialty parts to come along, my air compressor dying. And **** just rolling down hill from there.

<>Rebuld Reason</>
-persisting oil leak
-detemined not to be a function of oil level, though rather oil trans output shaft/shifter lever shaft.
-Dertmined to be torn diaphram on carbuerator.

<>Rebuild process</>
-Dissassemble down to removal of counterbalance,crank,trans shafts (in and out)
-replace seal on output shaft & shift shaft (tapped in place utilizing 5/8" half craftsman 12pt deep socket with 6 oz hammer.)
-Reassemble, apply utilizing RTV ultra black sealant: case merger, clutch cover/generator cover.
-Fill with oil, allow to sit for 24 hours
-Re assemble carbs, everything hand firm using flatheaded screwdirver & JIS #1
-Mount engine to ninja

NOTES:
-Throttle cable known kink to exist: will be fixed following rebuild.
-Test preforemd to inspire a leak and inspect any other areas for weakneses by comparison, analyzing the angle at which indentations were formed and wear patterns associated in the gasket.

<>Startup Procedure</>
-Turn crank (generator side) by hand to prime system with oil,
-check for valve inpeadment on piston crown.
-Dry fire (turn over using starter without carbs/exhaust attached)
-Final pre startup inspection
-Bolt tensions, fuel line connections, ect
-Turn on motor
-find idle set ~1400 rpm, known to be a good spot prior to rebuild.
-Once "steady" idle established, rev to near redline
-check for rpm hesitation, notice no annomolies through upper rev range on acceleration phase

<>When i went to go start it up.</>
-The thing would float the rpm on the way down.
-Assuming this is due to running lean: idle mixture screws backed out 4pi radians. After resetting the idle speed.
-If the RPMs were left too low, the thing would bog down and die.
-This is after the idle was initially
-Oil Spewing from between crank case in the first few seconds.
-~30 seconds, while in 6k+ rev zone

<>Next Step</>
-Remove block from bike
-Split cases
-Avoid head dissassembly, leave crank and piston components combined as single unit.
-Inspect known leaking area.
-Check for other leaks within gasket.
-Clean mating surfaces

[antwan718]

Pic of motor following Reassembly,

So, what are your guy's suggestions on where to take it from here: specifically in the diagnostics.

[Motofool]

Welcome to the site, Twan !!!

It seems that using silicone for correcting the oil leak was a costly mistake.

Regarding diagnostics: it seems to be a simple mix (carburetors) problem.
Did you add two turns to the recommended two turns for the low adjustment screws?

Did yo adjust the valves and the cam timing of the engine?

Are the exhaust pipes and air filter stock?

What spark plugs?

[csmith12]

Well met Twan! May luck be on your side in your task.

[antwan718]

Originally Posted by Motofool

Welcome to the site, Twan !!!

It seems that using silicone for correcting the oil leak was a costly mistake.

Regarding diagnostics: it seems to be a simple mix (carburetors) problem.
Did you add two turns to the recommended two turns for the low adjustment screws?

Did yo adjust the valves and the cam timing of the engine?

Are the exhaust pipes and air filter stock?

What spark plugs?

All mechanical components are stock, the NGK CRSH-8 are the spark plugs ones i am using and I just replaced the igniters as they were having 7 Ohm primary resistances as apposed to the stated 1~2 Ohm.

The timing was done on the bike such that the #2 Cylinder was at TDC with the cams separated 16.5 links with the intake and exhaust roughly horizontal.

And yes the carb mixture screws were set out 2 full rotations.