Bike won't start. Need help please.

[mychelle]

Okay, so don't hate on me. But I don't know anything about bikes and I don't really have anyone who can help me.

Last time I rode my '08 250 was the end of June. Since then I neglected it and left it sitting in my garage. Yesterday I tried to start it up because I need to get it inspected. It starts up with the choke on, around 3-4K, any less and it dies. When I try to put it into first gear, slowly release the clutch and turn the throttle, it dies.

I've searched through all the "bike won't start" posts, but I don't even know where to start.

Any ideas would be very helpful. Thanks!

[bob706]

Originally Posted by mychelle

Last time I rode my '08 250 was the end of June. Since then I neglected it and left it sitting in my garage.

Your carbs are likely gummed up. Running some seafoam through the tank may help.

[austexjg]

That is about the best "quick fix" advice - everything else might involve some time and tools.

I can understand not wanting to ride around in the heat, but starting the bike and going around the block would have been the best advice.

[mychelle]

Originally Posted by bob706

Running some seafoam through the tank may help.

I will try that tonight after work. How much do I use? Their website says "add 2 oz. Sea Foam to each gallon of gas / oil mix."

Originally Posted by austexjg

starting the bike and going around the block would have been the best advice.

Hindsight.

[bob706]

How much gas is in your tank right now? Also if your unable to ride it due to it dying when put in gear, I would be inclined to put a fan in front of the bike and let it run for awhile (preferably not with the choke on). I would dump about a quarter of the bottle in and see what happens.

[randomwalk101]

michelle,

where in texas are you?

just put a bunch of seafoam in, let it idles for awhile and see if that clears things up. Your carb is prob gummed up due to all this ethanol craps in fuel. don't let the bike sits too long..

[kkim]

Originally Posted by kawboyCAFE

my bikes have never set for more than 2 weeks at a time, so luckily i have never had the so-called "gummed up carbs" issue. even in the harshest of winter you should start your bike and let it run for about 20 minutes every couple of weeks. i guess i am just fortunate, because i have never in my life used stabil or seafoam or any of those other products, and i have never had a problem.

running your bike during winter (letting it idle for 20 minutes) w/o actually riding it can be very bad for your engine.

[Alex]

There can be negative effects either way. Starting it each week or two and idling it will likely keep the carbs from getting gunked up. You're running fuel through them often enough that portions of the fuel won't end up clogging the extremely small passages.

But by starting it each week without getting the entire engine up to operating temp under load, the condensation in the oil will progressively get worse and worse, causing the oil to ultimately be less effective. How much less effective? Hard to say. But a high-revving tiny engine like ours that is kept in the top end of the rev band, and only has a tiny amount of oil in it in the first place, is as affected by oil problems as any bike on the road. If the first thing you do in the spring before running it hard is to change the oil again, perhaps that's a decent compromise.

[kkim]

Originally Posted by Alex

There can be negative effects either way.

how so? if the bike is winterized properly, you will have a great running bike come springtime.

idling the bike w/o burning off the accrued condensation (which requires the bike be ridden under full load, not just idling) will lead to an increased level of acids in the oil which will affect it's ability to lubricate properly. it's well known in the car forums and those that are religious about keeping their vehicles in pristine condition go through a very anal process to winterize their cars. They don't start the cars once put to sleep for the winter. I can't see where bikes are different... in fact, I would think it's more important in a small bore bike like ours.

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/How_sho...ter_storage%3F

[kkim]

Originally Posted by kawboyCAFE

been doing it for 15 years now and never had a problem, so i think its okay.

ah... a young un'.

[Alex]

Originally Posted by kkim

how so? if the bike is winterized properly, you will have a great running bike come springtime.

I tend to agree, but even those folks who follow the checklists from top to bottom still sometimes have issues restarting a bike 5 months later. And then there are the folks who know these engines inside and out, are financially incented to maintain them well, and have chosen to start them every week or two over the winter to make sure they can continue to do so (Richard B. comes to mind).

But what the heck do I know about winterizing; works better just to ride them year round and not worry about it.

[bob706]

Originally Posted by kawboyCAFE

it really doesnt matter what people do either way, someone else is always going to tell them they are doing it the wrong way.

that's just wrong

[8gauge]

The good thing about living on a tropical island is that it's summer all year and i don't have to worry about winter lol

[mychelle]

So I got two bottles of Seafoam from Autozone. Poured about 1/3 the bottle in there. But now the key won't turn to on. It'll turn to lock the handlebars, but it won't go to on.

I read this: http://www.kawiforums.com/ninja-250r...osition-5.html and now I'm gonna go back to the garage and keep fidgeting with it again.

This has been a sucky day.

[mychelle]

Never mind!! I got it!

[mychelle]

So it's idling lower. But still no go. Better than it was last night. I'll run it again in the morning and see how it goes.

[Alex]

It may take an actual ride or two to clear things out, idling it (or even revving it) under no load while stationary will never get everything up to temp appropriate working. Get out on the highway for 20 minutes at 60+ mph, and all will likely be well.

[rockNroll]

You need to get the old fuel and seafoam outa your tank and get new fuel in there. If there's a lot of fuel in there then empty it and refill with new fuel, if the level is low then you can try to run it out.

[untdavid]

If you need some help, I could swing by and see what I can do...BTW, all of your cousins ride, couldn't they help you? If not let me know.

David

[mychelle]

Originally Posted by untdavid

If you need some help, I could swing by and see what I can do...BTW, all of your cousins ride, couldn't they help you? If not let me know.

David

They don't know I have a bike. Also, they are in Arlington, I'm in Dallas.

I ran the bike again this morning. It's idling a lot lower, around 1k. It's still dying in gear if I don't keep the clutch in. I'm going to do an oil change tonight and mess with it some more.

Any other suggestions?

[Alex]

Originally Posted by mychelle

I ran the bike again this morning.

Started the bike and just let it run in place, or actually took it for a ride?

Originally Posted by mychelle

Any other suggestions?

If the answer to part A was not "took it for a ride", do so.

[untdavid]

Originally Posted by mychelle

They don't know I have a bike. Also, they are in Arlington, I'm in Dallas.

I ran the bike again this morning. It's idling a lot lower, around 1k. It's still dying in gear if I don't keep the clutch in. I'm going to do an oil change tonight and mess with it some more.

Any other suggestions?

Give me a call tonight...PM'd you with my phone number. Would like to take a look at your bike anyway.

David

[mychelle]

Originally Posted by bob706

How much gas is in your tank right now? Also if your unable to ride it due to it dying when put in gear, I would be inclined to put a fan in front of the bike and let it run for awhile (preferably not with the choke on).

It's nearly a full tank. And I can't get it to start without any choke.

Originally Posted by kawboyCAFE

sounds to me like you didnt let it warm up enough after setting that long. just start it up, let run with the choke on for about 5-7 minutes, then slowly move the choke down a little until it drops to about 2,000 rpm and let it run for about another 5 minutes. after that, take it out for a 10-15 minute ride atleast. this should help, plus it will flow some gas through the carbs to smooth them out.

The bike dies in gear. I have to let the clutch out a little to have it go a few feet and then pull the clutch back in so that it doesn't die.

Originally Posted by randomwalk101

where in texas are you?

just put a bunch of seafoam in, let it idles for awhile and see if that clears things up. Your carb is prob gummed up due to all this ethanol craps in fuel. don't let the bike sits too long..

I'm in Dallas.

Originally Posted by Alex

It may take an actual ride or two to clear things out, idling it (or even revving it) under no load while stationary will never get everything up to temp appropriate working. Get out on the highway for 20 minutes at 60+ mph, and all will likely be well.

I can't get it going in gear.

Originally Posted by rockNroll

You need to get the old fuel and seafoam outa your tank and get new fuel in there. If there's a lot of fuel in there then empty it and refill with new fuel, if the level is low then you can try to run it out.

That's my next step a long with an oil change. Next step after that looks like it's going to be to call a mechanic.

[mychelle]

Well, it's not the kickstand switch. Disabled it but it still sputters and dies in gear unless I have the clutch in.

[mychelle]

Originally Posted by kawboyCAFE

when you let out on the clutch, you are twisting the throttle a little aren't you?

Yes. The RPMs go up and then they go down and the bike dies if I don't pull the clutch back in. It doesn't matter how much throttle I give it.

[rockNroll]

Start it w/ the choke and just let it sit there and run. Every few minutes, try to open the choke some. Keep trying this. If you stall it, close the choke and restart. Also, give the idle knob a few twists clockwise to get the bike so it wants to sit and idle.

As the bike sits there running, the rpm's are eventually gonna raise up beyond where they should be. Work the choke open and the idle speed knob down to get the rpms 1000-ish. Don't be afraid to play with it.

You might hafta get new fuel in there first. Your fuel is old which can be causing issues and now there's a bunch of seafoam in it, which doesn't burn real well. If you light seafoam, it burns with a cool dazzling flame and then goes out leaving behind a bunch of "stuff" that doesn't burn.

[mychelle]

SOOOO .... I took the bike apart, cleaned the carbs (which were pretty clean, I think), shimmed the needles, put it back together, freaked out because I couldn't figure out where an end to one of tubes went ( THANKS KELLY!! ), and started her up.

It's idling a lot better. I actually got the bike to stay running for a little while without choke, so a little progress. But the main problem is still there. I put it in first, give it gas, RPMs go up and then down, and the bike will die if I don't pull the clutch back in tight.

So.... any other suggestions?

[kkim]

Originally Posted by mychelle

But the main problem is still there. I put it in first, give it gas, RPMs go up and then down, and the bike will die if I don't pull the clutch back in tight.

can you give a bit more details on what exactly happens?

is the bike fully warmed up when you're doing this? are you using the choke to start it initially when cold?

when you cleaned the carbs, did you remove the pilot and main jets and blow them out with compressed air to make sure they aren't partially blocked?

have you tried increasing the idle speed using the idle control knob? if you can, turn that knob up so the bike idles at 2000rpm for now.

did you drain the old gas/seafoam mix and refill w/ fresh gas?

[setasai]

Is choke ON when you try to put it in gear? I usually leave the choke ON and go down the block and turn it off at the first stop sign. Having load really warms it up significantly faster. Also, when you say rpm's go up, How far up are you talking about? You might need to rev it decently high to get enough power since it's been stored so long. Once you get moving it should be easy peasy. Goodluck.

Btw, when you shimmed the needles, did you make sure to use the right washers? if the washers are too big they'll get caught and cause a whole different set of problems.

[FrugalNinja250]

Have you drained and replaced the fuel in the tank? Modern fuel chemistry is fairly unstable and five or six month old fuel won't work nearly as well in a motor tuned as highly as the lil' Ninja's is. The fuel will still work in your car, so just transfer it from the bike to the car (or lawnmower gas can, etc). The easiest way to empty the tank is to disconnect the fuel line from the petcock, run a new piece of fuel line to a gas can, then use a short piece of vacuum hose to apply mouth suction to the vacuum port on the petcock to open it up. Once fuel is flowing you can crimp the line to hold the vacuum.

Once you get fresh gas in the tank drain the carbs to get the old fuel out of them as well. To minimize cranking time from dry carbs, after you've drain them you can use vacuum on the petcock to refill the carb bowls.

In the future, if you're going to store a bike for a few months indoors just drain the carbs and throw some fuel stabilizer such as Stabil in the tank and put the battery on a battery tender to keep it charged. If you're going to periodically restart then it's best that you take it out for at least a 30 minute ride each time you start it to ensure the battery is fully charged, and more importantly to make sure all the cold-start condensation blowby is fully cooked out of the oil. About the worst thing you can do to a motor is intermittent starting from cold and then shutting it off.