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Old March 21st, 2012, 07:00 PM   #1
walty87
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Clutch slipping... how to fix?

So yeah awhile back I made a post about how my 2012 ninja 250 w/ 2700 miles had like a loss of power where my rpm's would jump high when I gave throttle, but my bike wouldn't respond and went the same speed even though my rpm's shot up.

I ended up playing with the clutch adjustments and that seemed to fix the issue.. until today.


Sooo I'm not quite sure how the clutch adjustment things are supposed to look? imo the clutch lever feels a little tight and doesn't have that "play" in it.

What should I adjust or do? Which way sure I turn that little "wheel" or the other smaller wider thing next to the clutch lever? or should I check out the clutch cable on the other end? what should I adjust / fix there?

thanks guys. I'm really retarded when it comes to this stuff and am trying to learn! I read the clutch DIY how to lube and adjust the clutch, but I was confused. So I need someone to dumb it down for me.
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Old March 21st, 2012, 07:39 PM   #2
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There could be several issues causing this.


First off is check the cable adjustment at the lever. Turn it so that it is all the way in, this should cause you to have free play in the clutch lever. Let it out till there is no free play left in the clutch lever. If this is set right and your clutch is still slipping you should check the clutch cable. Make sure its not damaged. If the cable is fine i would just replace the clutch. It is pretty damn easy to do with a cost of like 70 bucks if you do it yourself.
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Old March 21st, 2012, 10:08 PM   #3
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Well like I said last time I adjusted the cable, screwed it all the way in to where it had the "free play" and it fixed the problem.

I really hope the clutch isn't going out already. I've only had the bike 5 months. I really feel like it's some adjustment i'm missing... hrmm

I'm going to have to check the cable or something.
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Old March 22nd, 2012, 10:06 AM   #4
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Does your clutch slip in any other gear at all?
If your clutch is slipping only in 6th gear, It maybe an internal clutch spring problem. If your bike is new and still under warranty, just take it do the dealer and have them properly adjust it for you. Should take them 5 mins tops. If that does not solve your problem then let them know immediately show no further damage occurs and you move out of the warranty period.

Here is a simple adjustment technique you can try to see if it fixes your problem.
http://forums.ninja250.org/posting.p...&t=42852&tro=1
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Old March 22nd, 2012, 10:27 AM   #5
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All you really need to do is screw the adjuster inward until you have 2-3mm of space between the lever and the base when you release the clutch. If you have that much freeplay in the lever and you still get slipping, you have a plate/fiber or spring issue.

Have you done an oil change? If you have, and used the wrong type of oil (energy conserving), this could be the issue.
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Old March 22nd, 2012, 12:37 PM   #6
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If there's no slack in the lever, that's the problem and the actual clutch/springs are fine. You need a little slack.
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Old March 22nd, 2012, 01:01 PM   #7
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How do I make more slack? Dumb question I know
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Old March 22nd, 2012, 01:12 PM   #8
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Use the adjuster screw on the clutch lever base. Screw it in (righty-tighty) to add freeplay, screw it out (lefty-loosey) to take out freeplay.
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Old March 30th, 2012, 02:18 PM   #9
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so i messed with the levers, and it ended up working fine... until last night on my way home from work... same thing happened again.


so today I rode it over to the dealer. I explained the problem. they test rode it and said they could adjust the levers and everything for me for 25 bucks. I was fine w/ that so I let them do there thing for like an hour as I sat there. They kept testing it, riding it around. Come back to me and say that they cant fix it and they believe the clutch is bad. they said it would be 300-500 to replace the clutch. I told them i'd go home look at my work sched and call to make an appointment. On my way home, the problem was worse! The clutch started slipping at like 5-6k rpm's instead of 9k+, and I really had to baby it home. So whatever adjustment they did, obviously didn't help lol.

I understand things like this can happen, but have a few questions.

Is the clutch under warranty? I've had the bike (again, 2012 ninja 250) for 5 months
and put 3100 miles on it. Had them do the first maintenance on it.

Is it hard to replace the clutch myself? I don't have much mechanic skills, but I'm not retarded. I shimmed the jet needles myself w/o any type of experience. Where could I even buy a clutch?

Is it possible that it's still something to do with the adjustments and my clutch isnt bad?

thanks guys
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Old March 30th, 2012, 02:25 PM   #10
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I would think that something like this would be covered under the 12 month warranty, especially considering the miles. I am dumbfounded, though, that they charged you 25 dollars to try and adjust the levers.

As for replacing the clutch yourself.. I think you could figure out how to do it if you consider yourself mechanically inclined.
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Old March 30th, 2012, 03:15 PM   #11
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been doing many wheelies? sounds like a bad clutch. especially if someone knowledgeable tested it and agrees. its possible you are using the wrong oil but i doubt it. $25 to adjust your clutch is a ripoff, they should have done it for free. and $300 to change a clutch is completely ridiculous. I would not go back to that shop.

just replace it yourself. its a 15 minute job. drop the oil, remove the clutch cable from the lever, remove the cable from the lever going into the right side engine cover (clutch cover), rotate the lever 180, remove the clutch cover, unbolt the clutch boss, remove the clutch and all the plates, put the new plates in, put it back together, fill it with fresh oil.

unless its covered under warranty... then get it fixed for free. but that shop is ripping you off.


do you ride the brakes while gassing it? do a lot of wheelies? when you take off are you slipping the clutch? something you are doing has worn out the clutch. you really dont need to use the clutch hardly at all on a bike. especially this bike.
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Old March 30th, 2012, 03:19 PM   #12
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I noticed when I pull in and release the lever, that the little lever thing (on the clutch case thats attached opposite of the lever) doesn't fully release.

After I pull the clutch and release it, I can then push that little lever thing down more. Like I can release it more.

Make any sense?

Anyways anyone got the part number for new clutch plates?
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Old March 30th, 2012, 03:32 PM   #13
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with the clutch out, where is the lever on the clutch cover pointing

again- doing many wheelies?
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Old March 30th, 2012, 03:44 PM   #14
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I never kept count of the wheelies

I've done them yes, and honestly I think my clutch was tightened way too tight at one point.

Good chance I ruined my clutch >.< I'm starting to lean that way. But in the pic above I have the pic you requested. And I drew an arrow pointing which way I can move that lever after I release the clutch, I can still move it a tad bit towards that arrow w/ my finger.
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Old March 30th, 2012, 04:40 PM   #15
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your levers are fine. your clutch is burnt from doing wheelies. dont do wheelies. replace the clutch plates.

if you want to do wheelies, dont use the clutch. in other words, get a dinner plate rear sprocket or a bigger engine. clutch up wheelies == dead clutch.

you can open up the oil fill cap you see in that picture and take a look at your clutch plates
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Old March 30th, 2012, 04:41 PM   #16
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You wouldn't happen to have a part number for those would you?

thanks alex
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Old March 30th, 2012, 04:51 PM   #17
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http://www.bikebandit.com/ebc-ck-ser...h-kit?m=148745
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Old March 30th, 2012, 04:54 PM   #18
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if you are going to keep doing wheelies, they make better clutch plates. theres like a kevlar one that is supposed to last longer. i dont know a whole lot about the different compounds though.
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Old March 30th, 2012, 05:01 PM   #19
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Hmmm aftermarket ones? For OEM ones all I need are the 3 different types of plates correct?
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Old March 30th, 2012, 05:17 PM   #20
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theres two types of plates in the clutch. the hardened steel plates that attach to the engine, and the friction plates that attach to the output. you only need the friction plates. but honestly aftermarket friction plates aren't going to be any worse than oems. in fact the cheapest ones you can find are probably on par with OEM for what they put in the ninja. clutches, like brakes and tires are wear items that are expected to be replaced. because of that kawi (and other manufacturers) skimp on quality there to save on production costs. those bottom of the line EBCs are more than good enough. if you want better get kevlar. dont bother paying OEM price.
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Old March 30th, 2012, 05:25 PM   #21
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thanks a lot alex

one more question. so with those plates i'm guessing being destroyed, would that be the reason why that lever doesn't go all the way back (or is fully released)? I'm talking about the lever in the pic I posted. When I let go of the clutch it moves back into the position of the clutch, but I noticed I can push it towards the direction of the red arrow.
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Old March 30th, 2012, 05:44 PM   #22
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...Is the clutch under warranty? I've had the bike (again, 2012 ninja 250) for 5 months
and put 3100 miles on it. Had them do the first maintenance on it.
Your new Kawasaki motorcycle comes with a 12-month/unlimited mileage limited factory warranty. Whatever is wrong with the bike let the dealer fix it. It is not something you want to do yourself if you don't have the right tools or experience.
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Old March 30th, 2012, 05:50 PM   #23
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It may be a long shot, but it may be worth checking to see if your clutch cable is all gunked up or frayed anywhere. It may just need some coercing with some lube
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Old March 30th, 2012, 09:27 PM   #24
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Change the clutch yourself. Do not even think about paying that kind of money to have a shop repair it. Its an easy process. You can try and see if it is covered under warentee but i doubt it, Its not a malfuntioning part, you just burned it up.

A few tips are pay attention to the order of how the plates and friction plates come out. Order and replace the springs at the same time, while i am sure your springs are fine its best to change them out while you are in there. Order a gasket, Do not count on reusing the one that is on it now. Make sure you get all the gasket gunk off all the parts.

The most important thing is, if you plan on doing the work at a friends house and you leave the parts at home and lets say a friend picks them up for you, check his backpack to make sure you have all the friction plates. Dont try for hours to use only 4 plates getting pissed off your clutch is still not working only to discover at 3 am at an ihop that he still has one of the plates. While it makes a funny story and well you cant be mad as he was doing you a favor it still kind of sucks. dont ask me how i know
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Old March 30th, 2012, 09:29 PM   #25
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Quote:
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Change the clutch yourself. Do not even think about paying that kind of money to have a shop repair it. Its an easy process. You can try and see if it is covered under warentee but i doubt it, Its not a malfuntioning part, you just burned it up.

A few tips are pay attention to the order of how the plates and friction plates come out. Order and replace the springs at the same time, while i am sure your springs are fine its best to change them out while you are in there. Order a gasket, Do not count on reusing the one that is on it now. Make sure you get all the gasket gunk off all the parts.

The most important thing is, if you plan on doing the work at a friends house and you leave the parts at home and lets say a friend picks them up for you, check his backpack to make sure you have all the friction plates. Dont try for hours to use only 4 plates getting pissed off your clutch is still not working only to discover at 3 am at an ihop that he still has one of the plates. While it makes a funny story and well you cant be mad as he was doing you a favor it still kind of sucks. dont ask me how i know
Thanks, I ordered new plates. I hope that's all I need. Do I need any super special tools? I looked at the pre gen DIY clutch replacement. If its anything like that, should be easy
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Old March 30th, 2012, 09:40 PM   #26
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Thanks, I ordered new plates. I hope that's all I need. Do I need any super special tools? I looked at the pre gen DIY clutch replacement. If its anything like that, should be easy
Its the same, but again, you need to order springs and a gasket.
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Old March 30th, 2012, 09:48 PM   #27
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Its the same, but again, you need to order springs and a gasket.

cant use same springs?
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Old March 30th, 2012, 10:29 PM   #28
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cant use same springs?
You can, but metal fatigue affects them and they can potentially break(unlikely) and/or change tension in the future and cause you trouble. If you are already inthere it makes sense to replace them.
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Old March 31st, 2012, 07:03 AM   #29
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and from the heat from slipping the clutch the springs are probably sacked out...part of the reason the clutch actuation rod does not spring back. Unless the clutch basket has grooves worn in it. Should not have grooves in the basket so soon.

Besides the wheelies you should evaluate how you ride. if you smoked the clutch so soon could probably been from how crappy you adjusetd it the fist time, or you ride the clutch, get on gas too soon after shifting before letting out the clutch etc.
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Old April 1st, 2012, 11:44 AM   #30
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and from the heat from slipping the clutch the springs are probably sacked out...part of the reason the clutch actuation rod does not spring back. Unless the clutch basket has grooves worn in it. Should not have grooves in the basket so soon.
so the springs are what make the clutch actuation rod spring back?
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Old April 1st, 2012, 12:02 PM   #31
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ahh! @Havok is right, get a new gasket. its cheap. i always forget about that damn gasket.

we replaced his clutch just a few weeks ago.
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Old April 1st, 2012, 12:11 PM   #32
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...so the springs are what make the clutch actuation rod spring back?
Not directly. The clutch release lever sticks inside the engine cover and moves an pin. This pin gets pulled outward to release pressure from the clutch plates. The springs they are referring to, are (4) springs that press against the clutch plate.

See this thread http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=23023
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Old April 1st, 2012, 12:43 PM   #33
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thanks for clearing that up for me.

so what makes the clutch actuation rod spring go back to full released position?
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Old April 8th, 2012, 05:25 PM   #34
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Well took the opportunity of it being easter, and being off work to replace the clutch on my ninja 250. Honestly it was pretty easy. There's a great DIY on the site!

Only thing I noticed was that it seems my top speed is kinda slower, but I'll have to test further. Is that norm w/ a new clutch maybe? Idk.

Also I put non synthetic oil in there. Pretty sure that's the right thing to do right?
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Old September 7th, 2022, 08:51 PM   #35
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this thread is super old but I just came upon it while searching for a fix for my problem. I have a 2006 ninja 250. I'm having a very similar problem. All the sudden my engine revs but doesn't seem to go faster or at least my speedometer remains the same. Feels like the clutch is slipping, when I shift up the motor still just revs high and I have no power. I was thinking I may have to replace my clutch but maybe its just a cable adjustment issue. I will look at it again tomorrow but hoping its a easy adjustment fix. I'd rather not have to mess with the clutch if possible. I'm mechanically inclined and have done work on my carbs before so I could get into it if I have to. If I do, do I have to replace the oil?
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Old September 10th, 2022, 06:33 AM   #36
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this thread is super old but I just came upon it while searching for a fix for my problem. I have a 2006 ninja 250. I'm having a very similar problem. All the sudden my engine revs but doesn't seem to go faster or at least my speedometer remains the same. Feels like the clutch is slipping, when I shift up the motor still just revs high and I have no power. I was thinking I may have to replace my clutch but maybe its just a cable adjustment issue. I will look at it again tomorrow but hoping its a easy adjustment fix. I'd rather not have to mess with the clutch if possible. I'm mechanically inclined and have done work on my carbs before so I could get into it if I have to. If I do, do I have to replace the oil?
Could be just a cable adjustment, if the cable is too tight it could be causing your clutch to not completely engage and then it slips.

Clutch work is pretty easy really, Yes you will have to drain the oil, it is a wet clutch so there is oil that that part of the case. (edit) actually sometimes you can just lay the bike on it's side and work on a clutch without draining oil, never tried with a street bike probably not the best idea IDK?). If there is something with the clutch or clutch system it shouldn't be a difficult fix, just need to inspect things carefully once you get in there and see if something stands out before you take things apart and as you take it apart. With any luck your basket is fine, if you need to replace basket stuff or anything behind it you probably need a way to lock the clutch to take the main nut off. There are different ways to do it from tools to simply using a spare small gear to jam the clutch and output gears.

Good luck. Use a 4 stroke wet clutch approved oil when you fill it back up
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