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Old September 16th, 2022, 09:42 PM   #1
Zpatton
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Question Are these wires replaceable or no?

Bought my first bike last weekend, 2008 Ninja 250R. Going through it this week I noticed that the left headlight didn’t have a bulb so I did some fiddling around, took the front fairing off, and discovered thesewires were frayed. I’m assuming they would typically lead into the bulb? Also on the right side the bulb was burnt out so I had to completely disconnect that as well.

I’m trying to learn as much as I can as quickly as possible however I’m a very, very busy man and have a lot going on. Really want to get this thing out on the street as soon as possible too.

Are the bulbs replaceable with any type of H7 bulb? Are those wires replaceable or no? If I want LED or some sort of newer white light bulb, do I keep those wires and just sodder them onto the backs of the bulbs?

Any help is appreciated.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/dgSEiFoqcccqi7jf8
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Jstt5Wh1CtjmXBpt8
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Old September 16th, 2022, 11:16 PM   #2
DannoXYZ
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Hi and welcome!

Someone tried installing aftermarket HID lights on your bike. These are often low-quality and wiring will fray and break within year. Bulbs will often die quicker than that. Your best bet is to completely remove all aftermaket HID light components: bulbs, ballasts and wiring adapters.


Then you will be left with 2x H7 bulb connectors on factory harness.


Plug these into back of new top-quality H7 bulbs from Narva, Osram, Philips, Toshiba, Vosla that you can get from here: https://www.danielsternlighting.com/.../products.html . I highly recommend "H7 65-watt, 2100-lumen Ultra High Output Vosla" bulbs. About double output of factory bulbs.

If they did unspeakable and hacked off factory H7 bulb connectors to install those HID lights, you can restore them to factory condition with new H7 connectors: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FQLB52C/ . Be sure to use proper western-union/linesman knot, solder and adhesive heat-shrink tubing. It's done this way in pro-motorsports (MotoGP & Formulae-1), aerospace and military applicstions for performance, durability and reliability.

Link to original page on YouTube.

Here's edited factory wiring-diagram to help you determine what's OEM wiring vs. aftermarket that needs to be removed.


Remember: "There never seems to be enough time to do job right 1st time around, but there always time to do it AGAIN!! Often times, on side of road in total darkness and rain!"

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Old September 17th, 2022, 04:32 AM   #3
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Great post, DannoXYZ, but one quick correction: The factory harness doesn’t have H7 bulb sockets. There are adapters fitted to each H7 bulb and locked into the headlight assembly. He is probably missing these adapters.

They look so much like part of the bulb’s base that some owners have accidentally thrown them away with the bulbs, then found they couldn’t connect the wire harness.

Last futzed with by CZroe; September 17th, 2022 at 03:47 PM.
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Old September 17th, 2022, 08:04 AM   #4
Zpatton
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Wow thank you thank you thank you!!!!!!

Iíve been stressing over this for several days as Iíve been scouring the interwebs trying to figure it out. Now it makes so much sense! DannoXYZ that picture of the HID setup is EXACTLY what I just pulled out of the bike and is so extremely helpful.

From what I can tell the original H7 connectors are all still there and in good shape. Just need to knock the dust off of them.

A friend of mine did recommend, based on his previous experience, these Auxito H7 bulbs (with fan), off of Amazon. Which leads me to my next point because these are not plug Ďn play as advertised.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09JZC6TGX...ing=UTF8&psc=1

CZroe, that adapter you mentioned, is that part # 23017 in the diagram? If so then yeah, theyíre gone. Iíll have to order new ones.
https://cdn.partzilla.com/cdn-cgi/im...5-11c51255.png
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Old September 17th, 2022, 11:47 AM   #5
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Yep. The full part number is 23017-0004. I probably have some extras from broken headlights I’ve bought to experiment with (if any included bulbs). I’ll gladly check for you after work if you haven’t ordered them already.

Last futzed with by CZroe; September 17th, 2022 at 03:44 PM.
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Old September 17th, 2022, 01:58 PM   #6
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Yep. The full part number is 23017-0004. I probably have some extras from broken headlights Iíve bought to experiment with (if any included bulbs). Iíll gladly check for you after work if you havenít ordered them already.
I bought the ones off of Amazon that are identical for like $10 and will be here tomorrow.

Unfortunately it doesnít mean my bike will have running headlights because Iíve quickly discovered this thing needs a lot of work. Headers, shifter and bracket, new muffler, turn signals, ignition, etc, etc. This is turning into quite an adventure to say the least.
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Old September 17th, 2022, 03:12 PM   #7
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Nice! Try as I might, I can’t find anything like that with Amazon’s search. It’s like they are deliberately excluding it from my results. eBay works a lot better for me and even there I seem to have trouble. For example, I couldn’t find the replica lock sets when I searched over a month ago but when I searched again a week ago they popped up… along with a seller who has original genuine lock sets for $24.01.

On that note, you said you needed ignition and the lock set includes that along with matching tank and seat locks plus two Kawasaki-branded keys and extras (cable/striker for the rear seat). Maybe you can find someone local who bought a full exhaust and get their headers/exhaust for cheap. If it helps expand your options, I have seen people with a Ninja 300 exhaust slipped on to their 2008-2012 250 but I don’t know if the headers will swap too. Of course, the 300 will have an O2 sensor in the pipe for fuel injection where only some of the 2008-2012 250s did.
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Old September 17th, 2022, 03:23 PM   #8
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Nice! Try as I might, I canít find anything like that with Amazonís search. Itís like they are deliberately excluding it from my results. eBay works a lot better for me and even there I seem to have trouble. For example, I couldnít find the replica lock sets when I searched over a month ago but when I searched again a week ago they popped upÖ along with a seller who has original genuine lock sets for $24.01.

On that note, you said you needed ignition and the lock set includes that along with matching tank and seat locks plus two Kawasaki-branded keys and extras (cable/striker for the rear seat). Maybe you can find someone local who bought a full exhaust and get their headers/exhaust for cheap. If it helps expand your options, I have seen people with a Ninja 300 exhaust slipped on to their 2008-2012 250 but I donít know if the headers will swap too. Of course, the 300 will have an O2 sensor in the pipe for fuel injection where only some of the 2008-2012 250s did.
I bought the ignition and lock set from FDB you posted actually so thank you for that.

As far as headers go thereís a few places I was told to check out around the DFW area, kinda like graveyards, but there is a OEM set on eBay for what I assume is a reasonable price. I didnít even notice until today that the headers this bike has werenít OEM, plus they werenít fully seated onto the flanges. Kinda disconcerting if you think about it considering I need this bike for commuting.

When I get a chance tonight Iíll start putting together some of the pictures I have, take some video, and put it all together into a separate thread so I can catalog what all is going on right now. Hopefully thatíll make it easier for you guys to see what I am doing right and wrong and assist me too.
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Old September 17th, 2022, 03:37 PM   #9
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The shifter and foot peg bracket from an EX250F (1988-2007) should fit EX250J (2008-2012), since I have an EX250J set on one of my EX250F bikes. It will look totally mismatched though. I believe the shifter itself is identical except color… shiny chrome instead of flat black. Maybe that’ll open up some options.
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Old September 17th, 2022, 03:38 PM   #10
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I have extra factory muffler and may have some factory headers. Lemme check boxes.

Also do not get LED bulbs. They may boast huge output lumens, but will end up spraying all over the place due not being designed for halogen reflective headlight housings. All this extra spray into trees and oncoming traffic creates dangerous situation for them and you.

Light intensity on ground will be lowered and not be any better than stock. Combined with lower CRI of LEDs, resultant view will be worse than stock.

Some examples. These are headlights designed for LED bulbs and HID bulbs specifically. They have sharp horizontal cut-off to place all of light on ground and out of other drivers' eyes:



This is what happens when you put LED bulbs into light housings designed for halogen bulbs. This was on dual-headlight bike with factory Sylvania halogen on right and aftermarket LED bulb on left.

Note that LED beam is spread out all over place. Upward glare into oncoming traffic's eyes. It actually doesn't have as much intensity anywhere compared to factory light, which is actually brighter where it's important. And LED has tonne of light low and close-up. This near-field light is glare to YOU, and makes distance viewing more difficult to see because it's dimmer. So what you really want is focused beam below horizontal aimed far away like factory halogen on right.

Over 25-yrs ago, Daniel Stern helped me develop headlight upgrade kit for Porsches. This is result with exact same 55w power-consumption using top-quality Narva halogen bulbs.


Best upgrade for bikes is either HID projector retrofit or headlights specifically designed for LED. I just installed these Motodynamic LED headlights on my CBR600RR. Extremely good vision with beam spread across both lanes. Sharp horizontal cut-off and no near-field close-up brightness to distract from distance viewing (skip to 3:50 for field test)

Link to original page on YouTube.

Next best is top-quality H7 bulbs from Narva, Osram, Philips, Toshiba, Vosla that you can get from here: https://www.danielsternlighting.com/.../products.html . I highly recommend "H7 65-watt, 2100-lumen Ultra High Output Vosla" bulbs. About double output of factory bulbs.


Last futzed with by DannoXYZ; September 17th, 2022 at 08:39 PM.
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Old September 17th, 2022, 06:37 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DannoXYZ View Post
Best upgrade for bikes is either HID projector retrofit or headlights specifically designed for LED. I just installed these Motodynamic LED headlights on my CBR600RR. Extremely good vision with beam spread across both lanes. Sharp horizontal cut-off and no near-field close-up brightness to distract from distance viewing (skip to 3:50 for field test)
Yeah. Projectors create their own beam pattern and cut-off, so you can sometimes retrofit them where HID non-projectors would be inappropriate. It requires splitting open the whole enclosure and re-sealing to retrofit them though:


Actually, there are replica headlight assemblies available now and some vendors sell them with HID projectors already installed.

I did actually find that I have a THIRD headlight assembly with the H7 adapters. I vaguely recall sending some to someone many years ago so these are probably my only ones now. While looking I also found that I have a Ninja 300 windscreen for some unknown reason. I have no recollection of this but it would’ve had to be something I got when the 300 was just introduced! It has a crack so I probably got it to experiment with adding a modern headlight and windscreen to the F-bike… and I never got around to it.

Edit: Third one found…

Last futzed with by CZroe; September 18th, 2022 at 10:34 AM.
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Old September 17th, 2022, 09:58 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CZroe View Post
Great post, DannoXYZ, but one quick correction: The factory harness doesnít have H7 bulb sockets. There are adapters fitted to each H7 bulb and locked into the headlight assembly. He is probably missing these adapters.

They look so much like part of the bulbís base that some owners have accidentally thrown them away with the bulbs, then found they couldnít connect the wire harness.
Thanks! Forgot about that adapter. Apparently harness connectors are H4. Maybe used in some other similar model with twin headlights and Kawi figured they'd just reuse harness without changing connectors.
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Old September 17th, 2022, 10:00 PM   #13
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Speaking of modern headlights on F-model, I'm gonna try HID projector retrofit. To prevent lense flutes from interfering like on previous disasterous attempts, I'm going to grind off flutes for clear glass lens!

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Old September 18th, 2022, 10:31 AM   #14
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Quote:
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Speaking of modern headlights on F-model…
Very cool! Years ago I planned to try it both ways: Modernize the old light on one bike and retrofit a more modern light on the other. I did buy a projector for the F-bike but never got around to a test fit like I did for the J-bike. It’s still in the box somewhere.

I’m not nearly handy enough to do glasswork like that. My lazy plan was to partially hide the flutes with green headlight mesh. I’d cut the opening in the race fairing to cover the corners and reveal only certain parts of the fluted light housing, creating new outline angles and hiding how rectangular it is. The bike was going to be black with green highlights so I would add green flares to the area around the headlight to create a false headlight shape beyond the exposed area of the original. I’d then blend the windscreen with the upper fairing and use green to create a wedge shaped false windscreen outline that comes to a point over the headlight instead of the solid line you get between the headlight and the original windscreen.

I was trying to figure out why I bought the 300 windscreen and thought I might be able to color the outer parts body-color and partially cover the headlight to hide the boxy shape. Since it’s supposed to be an elevated/floating windscreen design, I can probably adapt it with some modern mirrors and then hide my janky mounts underneath the painted parts.


Imagine that Ninja 300 windscreen but painted with a false fairing to look more like this:


Of course, the original windscreen is almost vertical with the flat face of the headlight making the original mirror mounts very awkward to adapt modern mirrors to. Angling the false fairing/windscreen to make a forward-pointing nose would help with that. It would also create a gap just above the headlight which a lot of modern bikes have anyway. The style started as a ram air intake for supersports but even the Ninja 400 has this design… much like the front fender pretending to shield upside-down forks.
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