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Old October 5th, 2011, 08:07 PM   #81
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What sizes came out of the 636?
That is classified information.
lol j/k
The 636 took one 2.85 and mostly 2.90's from the ninjas so I believe some 2.95's and 3.0's came out.
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Old October 10th, 2011, 11:53 AM   #82
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approaching 7,500 miles fast. after watching these vids, it seems to be a pretty time intensive job. someone in the WI area wanna adjust my bike's shims? lol.
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Old October 10th, 2011, 11:55 AM   #83
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approaching 7,500 miles fast. after watching these vids, it seems to be a pretty time intensive job. someone in the WI area wanna adjust my bike's shims? lol.
We can have a shimming party. My bike's at 8,000 miles and I know it would be great to have them checked and adjusted before I sell it.
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Old October 10th, 2011, 11:56 AM   #84
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approaching 7,500 miles fast. after watching these vids, it seems to be a pretty time intensive job. someone in the WI area wanna adjust my bike's shims? lol.
If you leave the radiator and engine mount bolt assembly in place and granted you have the shims already.... this can be done in less than 4 hours. This makes for tighter working conditions but it's the way I did it.
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Old October 10th, 2011, 12:03 PM   #85
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We can have a shimming party. My bike's at 8,000 miles and I know it would be great to have them checked and adjusted before I sell it.
sounds like a plan. let me know where and when.
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Old October 10th, 2011, 12:09 PM   #86
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You can order bulks of 30 shims in 6 different sizes here.

http://www.procycle.us/hotcams/valve_shims.htm
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Old October 10th, 2011, 02:45 PM   #87
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sounds like a plan. let me know where and when.
If you get some shims I'll host at my house in Sheboygan!
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Old October 12th, 2011, 09:07 AM   #88
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If you get some shims I'll host at my house in Sheboygan!
where is the best place to get shims of various sizes?
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Old October 26th, 2011, 07:32 PM   #89
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Just finished it up. Bike now fires up on the first turnover, rather than waiting. Yey!

Thanks for the video, was able to figure everything out (until a bolt stripped, lol)

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Old October 27th, 2011, 06:40 PM   #90
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My 7500 is arriving very very soon(good because I'm happy I've reached it, sad because I don't feel like ripping the whole thing apart) Thanks for the DIY, I've been watching the vids, and I finally think I have a grip on what I need to do! Sometimes videos help a lot.
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Old October 27th, 2011, 10:03 PM   #91
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Hi,

I am in the midst of getting new shims for my bike, and I marked the timing chain and the sprockets with a sharpie so that they should line up correctly, but I also managed to rub off some of the markings while removing the cams. In the manual, it shows lining up "EX" markings on the cam shaft sprockets while the engine is at "2 TDC" and counting chain links, but it was all a bit confusing. Can anyone offer any insight as I would like to do this as a redundancy. (I believe you count 60 or so links which should correspond with a mark on the second cam shaft sprocket) Thanks!

Last futzed with by pop0tart; November 4th, 2011 at 10:21 AM. Reason: changed 1 tdc to 2 so nobody destroys bike after reading my post :)
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Old October 27th, 2011, 10:28 PM   #92
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Hi,

I am in the midst of getting new shims for my bike, and I marked the timing chain and the sprockets with a sharpie so that they should line up correctly, but I also managed to rub off some of the markings while removing the cams. In the manual, it shows lining up "EX" markings on the cam shaft sprockets while the engine is at "1 TDC" and counting chain links, but it was all a bit confusing. Can anyone offer any insight as I would like to do this as a redundancy. (I believe you count 60 or so links which should correspond with a mark on the second cam shaft sprocket) Thanks!
Follow this to the letter, and you should be fine. White and blue marks are denoted on the picture. The red dots represent the 36 pins.
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Old October 28th, 2011, 03:28 AM   #93
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Other than a micrometer and feeler gauges, is there anything else special I need to do this job? Small torque wrench?
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Old October 28th, 2011, 08:24 AM   #94
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Small torque wrench?
Absolutely (in-Lbs)!
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Old October 28th, 2011, 08:53 AM   #95
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Thanks, Bob!
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Old October 28th, 2011, 09:06 AM   #96
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Would this one suffice?

http://www.harborfreight.com/1-4-qua...ench-2696.html
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Old October 28th, 2011, 09:58 AM   #97
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I would guess you could probably get away with it. I wouldn't count on it being super accurate, but for our uses, I would hope the acceptable margin for error is well WNL. If you wanted to be absolutely positive, you could spend a lot more, but honestly, I think that would only be worth it if you really like having nice tools, or use it a lot.

If you didn't want to spend a fortune, but wanted a nicer wrench, I'd check-out ebay. I bought a craftsman off ebay for pretty cheap. It does the job, but the locking ring is cracked through, so I have to hold it with electrical tape... it's kind of annoying.
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Old October 29th, 2011, 02:36 PM   #98
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Yeah, college student budget here

But right now I only have a ft-lb torque wrench I initially bought for oil changes, but has come in handy plenty of times. The tools I have now aren't horrible, they're just not top quality. Hoping once I have a budget for tools I can find good quality tools to do my work, and maybe actually organise them
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Old October 30th, 2011, 06:37 PM   #99
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In that case, I would buy it. It is a whole lot better than nothing.... and a Foot-Lb wrench.
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Old November 1st, 2011, 08:35 PM   #100
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Cool thanks!

Another possibly dumb question. How bad would it to wait until 8000 miles to adjust my valves?
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Old November 1st, 2011, 09:42 PM   #101
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Wow after reading this thread I am glad I bought a pre gen! No shims involved. My valve adjustments are FREE. Of course I do them myself.

Quote:
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Another possibly dumb question. How bad would it to wait until 8000 miles to adjust my valves?
On the pregens you are supposed to check the clearances every 6000 miles, I bought the bike with 7200 miles and the previous owner never adjusted the valves. I got around to adjusting them with 9000 miles on the bike. All the valves were tight but I got them to spec and it is running great! So I think if you are 500 miles past you check you should be okay. But check the clearances as soon as you can. You don't want to destroy your engine.
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Old November 2nd, 2011, 09:08 AM   #102
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Cool thanks!

Another possibly dumb question. How bad would it to wait until 8000 miles to adjust my valves?
It's bad. I looked into my crystal ball, and unfortunately, your valves are melting. It's pretty much destroyed.



It's your bike, check them or don't.

I baby mine and checked mine early to find that 5 were out, but you never know till you check, and nobody can guess whether you're fine @ 8,000 mi or destroying the thing.
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Old November 6th, 2011, 12:20 AM   #103
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Thanks KC. just did the valves. your videos were invaluable!

p.s. i over torqued one of the bolts holding the cam lobe cage down. pulled it in two. luckily managed to get it out and replaced it. nearly had a heart attack when it happened though!
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Old November 6th, 2011, 10:41 AM   #104
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did you use a torque wrench? Those bolts were junk, anyway. I replaced every one with real ss ones that had a shape that looks like it was meant to fit into a socket.
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Old November 12th, 2011, 02:10 PM   #105
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Great videos! I'm on the verge of rolling over 7500 miles and I think I'm going to attempt this myself.
One question though:

There were two links posted for the shims
this one that has a wide range of sizes, but only 3 of each
http://www.amazon.com/Hot-Cams-Valve.../dp/B000WJWTM6

and this one which is a refill, but I would go with 2.70mm-2.95mm since that seems to be the popular range of needed shims
http://www.bikebandit.com/hot-cams-v...kage-7-48mm-od

Which one should I go with?
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Old November 22nd, 2011, 07:04 PM   #106
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Started taking things apart this afternoon, at engine mount removal. Didn't have too much time to work on it(because I slept way too much today), but cooling system was more of a PITA, than I expected, but getting there and trying not to rush. Hopefully I can get my measurements all taken care of tomorrow. My dealer says they have our shim size in stock and that they do shim trading.
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Old November 22nd, 2011, 09:33 PM   #107
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Regarding the cooling system: One thing I prefer about the Ninjette method of doing valves, over the Service Manual, is removing only the hoses. I find it quicker to leave the radiator, and unless you aren't careful with it, there is still enough room to work from the sides. The last time I actually did remove the radiator, I cross threaded the mounting point between the left engine mount and the radiator. It's on there, but if I ever had to remove that bolt, I would either have to replace the whole engine mount, or go through the trouble of re-taping it, and finding a larger bolt..... I'll just leave it were it is, thank you!
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Old November 23rd, 2011, 07:56 PM   #108
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Day Two complete, measurements are in....

Exhaust:

.18 .15 .15 .13

Inlet:

.18 .18 .18 .15


Went to the dealership and got the replacements, going to throw them in tomorrow. Shim replacement program means free shims!

The mechanic there said he's never done a valve job on a Ninja 250 before lol!

Everything's really tight in there! I'm at 7393 miles too! At least I found some time to get to it.
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Old November 24th, 2011, 09:51 AM   #109
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Seems like my rag has gotten very small fibers on my cam chain? Any suggestion on how to clean it off? Or will it be ok?
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Old November 24th, 2011, 02:03 PM   #110
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Seems like my rag has gotten very small fibers on my cam chain? Any suggestion on how to clean it off? Or will it be ok?
I'm assuming it was a paper rag.... I would think it would be fine. An oil change wouldn't hurt, after running it a minute, but I doubt it is necessary. If you think it is really bad, a picture would be helpful in giving an opinion with more confidence.
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Old November 24th, 2011, 02:25 PM   #111
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Looks like all is lost now anyways. My dad insisted that he help and my brother and he broke one of the cam cover cap screws which is now stuck inside..about an inch or so...what can I do??????
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Old November 24th, 2011, 02:30 PM   #112
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what can I do??????
Wish them well on the bike they just bought from you, while you go get yourself a new one?
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Old November 24th, 2011, 02:47 PM   #113
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I wish...lol
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Old November 24th, 2011, 03:34 PM   #114
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Sad fact is that will never work(telling them to get me a new bike).....any possibility a bolt extractor tool or something would work(drilling inside)?
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Old November 24th, 2011, 04:00 PM   #115
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Sad fact is that will never work(telling them to get me a new bike).....any possibility a bolt extractor tool or something would work(drilling inside)?
That is beyond my experience, but if you tried it, I would make a surgical drape, and be VERY careful nothing could get past the exposed area. I might even tape around that eposed part, which should only be as large as it needs to be. Removing the engine would make this even easier/safer to do..... I know that's a pain, sorry.
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Old November 24th, 2011, 04:16 PM   #116
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Yeah.....:'(

I've already dedicated most of this week to this...I was really trying to take my time and be careful, and now everything's messed up:/

I have no idea even how to remove the engine:/ I'm also scared I'll mess up this delicate bolt thread extraction.
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Old November 24th, 2011, 04:44 PM   #117
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Yeah.....:'(

I've already dedicated most of this week to this...I was really trying to take my time and be careful, and now everything messed up:/

I have no idea even how to remove the engine:/ I'm also scared I'll mess up this delicate bolt thread extraction.
Engine removal isn't THAT difficult. You'll need 2 people, and a floor jack though. It is mainly just a bunch of little jobs before you remove the engine from the frame. It is actually in there by only 3 bolts. It is a little harder to bolt it back up, but not TOO hard. The SM has the procedures. There is always the dealler if you aren't comfortable with it....
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Old November 24th, 2011, 04:46 PM   #118
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:'( I guess this riding season has come to a premature end...

I guess I could get a floor jack and do it, but won't that only just give me a little more room up top? Or can the piece that holds in the cam bolt be removed?
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Old November 24th, 2011, 05:20 PM   #119
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:'( I guess this riding season has come to a premature end...

I guess I could get a floor jack and do it, but won't that only just give me a little more room up top? Or can the piece that holds in the cam bolt be removed?
I pic would help, but if it is where I'm thinking, it cannot be removed.
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Old November 24th, 2011, 05:23 PM   #120
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It's the bolt of the camshaft cover, I don't have a pic right now, cause it's hard to move around in there.

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...se_Caution.jpg

It's the red circle on the top left where the thread is stuck inside.
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