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Old April 17th, 2017, 10:17 AM   #1
psykown
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2014 stator issues?

So I have a 2014 ninja 300 with abs and this is the second time the stator has died on on me, both times at almost exactly 20k miles. I was curious how many others are having this issue and if anyone might know why?

@rgx107 you mentioned yours was at 56k km ~34k miles

Anyone else withave high miles and this issue?
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Old April 19th, 2017, 02:48 AM   #2
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I'm having the same issue at the moment, same year, same model. Mine has 25,000km on it.
I've tested the regulator/rectifier, and there is a definite problem there, though whether or not it's the cause or a symptom.
I've discussed this problem with an auto-elecky, and he has suggested that the stator/magnets need to be receiving battery power in order for it to generate the 35v. I'm curious as to whether or not the battery power has to go through the rectifier first, and the dodgy rectifier is preventing any power reaching stator...

I haven't had a chance to do any further tests just yet, but thought I'd pass along my queries and hope they help!

Let me know if you have any breakthroughs yourself, as I'm at a loss at the moment
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Old April 30th, 2017, 04:23 PM   #3
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Well it was definitely my stator that was toast, had the whole thing burned up with an exposed wire. luckily it is a pretty easy swap! found a used one for 250 or so.
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Old April 30th, 2017, 04:25 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NotaVillian View Post
I'm having the same issue at the moment, same year, same model. Mine has 25,000km on it.
I've tested the regulator/rectifier, and there is a definite problem there, though whether or not it's the cause or a symptom.
I've discussed this problem with an auto-elecky, and he has suggested that the stator/magnets need to be receiving battery power in order for it to generate the 35v. I'm curious as to whether or not the battery power has to go through the rectifier first, and the dodgy rectifier is preventing any power reaching stator...

I haven't had a chance to do any further tests just yet, but thought I'd pass along my queries and hope they help!

Let me know if you have any breakthroughs yourself, as I'm at a loss at the moment
My understanding is that the power route is as follows;

stator>R/R>battery>rest of the bike(ignition ecu etc)

I am not the greatest with electricity though so take this with a grain of salt.
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Old April 30th, 2017, 06:19 PM   #5
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That's great, thank you.

As it turns out, I pulled my stator out too and one of the wires is fried! I'm finding that to get it re-wound is over $300, and a new one is over $600!
You wouldn't be able to point me in the direction that you got yours from, would you?
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Old April 30th, 2017, 06:29 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by NotaVillian View Post
That's great, thank you.

As it turns out, I pulled my stator out too and one of the wires is fried! I'm finding that to get it re-wound is over $300, and a new one is over $600!
You wouldn't be able to point me in the direction that you got yours from, would you?
I got my new stator from ebay it had about 2500 miles on it, if you go to ricksmotor sports they rewound my original stator for $250 I believe. A new OEM one should run you about $400, 600 is pretty pricey!!!
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Old April 30th, 2017, 06:34 PM   #7
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Ahh, I didn't notice that you were over in the USA! I'm in Australia, and everything seems to be more expensive here! I might look on US EBay and see what I can find.
Thanks for the advice, and let me know how your new stator goes!
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Old April 30th, 2017, 06:38 PM   #8
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Oh shoot, my bad! idk will ricks ship to and from australia? You may just have a little longer of a down time.
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Old April 30th, 2017, 06:39 PM   #9
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Maybe you could try an add in the selling forum? someone may get it to you a bit cheaper in there, they aren't so bad here
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Old April 30th, 2017, 08:42 PM   #10
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Look for companies that rebuild electric motors. I'm sure a motorsports company would sub the stator out of one of those. Guys I know who have found rebuilders directly pay around $200-ish.

Of course check out the charging system to be sure something else isn't causing the stator to overheat.
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Old May 1st, 2017, 05:07 AM   #11
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Is Kawasaki still using the old, toaster oven shunt type regulators on the 300?
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Old May 1st, 2017, 05:16 AM   #12
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Something like this what you mean? If so yes 👍
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Old November 13th, 2017, 10:10 PM   #13
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I know it is months later but

I started hard wiring that is eliminating the regulator plug on my bikes back in the 90s. The first was a gs1000 after it failed and I read the "Stator Papers" on the GS forum. Everything after that including my '02 Futura(some of those even caught fire) got the mod. There also was a writeup somewhere about a superior type of regulation system that wasn't used due to cost difference. I'll be modding the 300 over the winter and checking to see if I've done the others already-can't remember! The factories continuing building these flaws into their bikes smacks of Detroit-especially GM! My'95 Camry is pushing 330K!!
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Old November 14th, 2017, 06:12 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psykown View Post
Something like this what you mean? If so yes ��
if Kaw still using old style shunt, I'd suggest upgrading to a mosfet type RR, wiring direct from stator, eliminating the mid connector


At one time Honda VFR had a chronic problem with common occurring burning connectors and charge system failures. When I acquired, my own RR heated up smokin' hot within a minute or 2 from cold startup. Seeing the writing on the wall....prior to any failure I sourced and installed an older ZX10 Shindengen mosfet regulator....cool running and dead reliable...that was 7 full seasons ago, no hiccups since.

Added a LED type voltage monitor as well for instant notice of any issues.

Worked so well, I did the same on my older Ducati 900SS, again dead reliable since.
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Old November 14th, 2017, 09:22 AM   #15
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AH SO

Is that the brand name or circuit type? It may be the better unit I read about. Any info online as to what bikes used those? If I remember right the old GS system pumped all excess power back into windings so they had to dissipate lots of heat leading to insulation breakdown. Do you happen to know what our Ninjas and the SVs use? Thanks,GJ oops just noticed you said mofset/mosfet-i think that was system name.
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Old November 14th, 2017, 10:07 AM   #16
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Shindengen is the Japanese manufacturer. It is indeed a Mosfet (though still a shunt type) The more modern transistors run much much cooler....the old EX500 regulators went UNCHANGED from late 80's design to when they were discontinued in '06.,,,and as they aged, they frequently cooked themselves from inside/out.

the Shindengen Mosfet I used back then was their model FH010, it was OEM on the ZX10 from 04 through 06 or 07? .....nowadays there are later model FH020. I still use FH010 in EX500 applications....incredibly reliable, affordable and available. Can be used on EX250 and 500, though some wiring trickery must occur. I custom build an RR adaptor harness which plugs in to the bikes existing harness....that is what is pictured above. I think member Ghostt is running an FH010 on his 250.

Not sure what RR is supplied on the 300, though.

The latest and greatest is now the "SERIES" type regulator. Google that, not a shunt and much more $$$.
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Old November 14th, 2017, 02:12 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ducatiman View Post
The latest and greatest is now the "SERIES" type regulator. Google that, not a shunt and much more $$$.
They're really not new, and with PM alternators, they can cause voltage spikes that the alternator coils aren't designed for. Permanent magnet alternators don't mind being shunted, and in fact run cooler and with less drag when dead shorted than when putting out their design voltage. In other words, you're not going to do better than a well made shunt regulator on our PM alternators.

Last futzed with by Triple Jim; November 14th, 2017 at 03:49 PM.
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Old November 15th, 2017, 07:29 AM   #18
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I tripped again!!

No not acid-more like stubbing ones toes. Over on SV the first gen mod section (first topic in fact)regards rrs. It calls out an FH008 as perfect for early SVs. As it is smaller and put out 35a it might be right for Ninjettes. My SV is at 66k so mayhap it get this mod. Have to look over the Winter as a PO may have done some such or maybe several stators.
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