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Old September 6th, 2018, 05:39 PM   #1
Boostdz
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Ninja 300 ram air intake

So... I made a ram air intake on my Ninja 300 and was curious if there was any interests in me trying to make some sort of production part. Just out of morbid curiosity.
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Old September 7th, 2018, 06:28 AM   #2
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so you closed off the other intakes?
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Old September 7th, 2018, 06:36 AM   #3
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Also, looks like your intake is on the same side of the filter as the throttle bodies, unless you rotated that too.
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Old September 8th, 2018, 12:40 PM   #4
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Interesting... What's the improvement in top-speed?

Ram-air needs velocity to cram in air, so won't help accelerating out of corners. But if i can pick up another 3-5mph on long straights like at Thunderhill or Laguna Seca, that would be totally worth it!
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Old September 8th, 2018, 07:13 PM   #5
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I met a guy at Bonneville with a simple ram air pipe to a plenum. The plenum ha a pressure gauge hooked up. He said the pressure at 120 mph was about 3psi. It was a Harley with a single carb. He had a dial a jet enrichment he used to compensate for the airflow. Simple and it worked pretty well.
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Old September 9th, 2018, 06:48 AM   #6
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120 mph is about 104 knots. From the graph, the pitot pressure at 104 knots is about 0.49 inches of mercury.

One inch of mercury is 0.491 psi, so the ram pressure at 120 mph is 0.49 x 0.491 = 0.24 psi

Since atmospheric pressure is around 15 psi at low altitude, this is about a 1.6% increase from the ram air intake. A 40 hp engine might be expected to make an extra 0.64 hp.

At 200 mph, ram air starts to get important, and you get a pressure of 1.48" mercury, or 0.72 psi, so a 180 hp motorcycle engine could make an extra 8.64 hp.
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Old September 9th, 2018, 07:01 AM   #7
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Quote:
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120 mph is about 104 knots. From the graph, the pitot pressure at 104 knots is about 0.49 inches of mercury.

One inch of mercury is 0.491 psi, so the ram pressure at 120 mph is 0.49 x 0.491 = 0.24 psi

Since atmospheric pressure is around 15 psi at low altitude, this is about a 1.6% increase from the ram air intake. A 40 hp engine might be expected to make an extra 0.64 hp.

At 200 mph, ram air starts to get important, and you get a pressure of 1.48" mercury, or 0.72 psi, so a 180 hp motorcycle engine could make an extra 8.64 hp.
Thanks for the chart. It looks like ram air provides very little increase in horsepower. I guess thatís why piston engine aircraft use a turbo charger or a supercharger.
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Old September 9th, 2018, 09:32 AM   #8
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Thanks for the chart. It looks like ram air provides very little increase in horsepower. I guess thatís why piston engine aircraft use a turbo charger or a supercharger.
Yes, almost nothing at any reasonable speed.

Biggest advantage in some applications would be the reduced temperature of the incoming air, but still unlikely to show significant improvements in normal riding.
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Old September 10th, 2018, 01:06 AM   #9
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That’s pretty cool though
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Old September 10th, 2018, 07:04 AM   #10
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Even WWII fighters that went over 400mph used turbo and superchargers (sometimes both at the same time). Ram air just doesn't provide enough pressure until you get supersonic, at that point you can do away with the compressor entirely and just inject fuel into a well formed metal tube (ramjet).
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Old September 10th, 2018, 03:20 PM   #11
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It was more so for fresh air that was a look ittle cooler temp wise. I had seen some interests and some poor attempts at doing a ram air intake. So I will just sell this one. I was just curious how people felt about it. I spent a lot if time making it and it seemed to pick up a little mph on the straight. It dyno'd at 46 hp. With everything else stock. So... not sure. I did the tune and know there is more to be had... I just dont know enough about tuning to get it.
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Old September 10th, 2018, 03:33 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ralgha View Post
Even WWII fighters that went over 400mph used turbo and superchargers (sometimes both at the same time). Ram air just doesn't provide enough pressure until you get supersonic, at that point you can do away with the compressor entirely and just inject fuel into a well formed metal tube (ramjet).
And even that isn't possible until super dooper sonic speeds.
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Old September 10th, 2018, 04:15 PM   #13
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And even that isn't possible until super dooper sonic speeds.
At Supersonic speeds and above you start to get more air being shoved down the intake. To solve this problem, aircraft like the SR-72 use a variable cone at the intake to meter the amount of air coming in. Otherwise the flame would get blown out l8ke bowing out a candle.
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Old September 10th, 2018, 05:19 PM   #14
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That's like mach 4+. Like I said... super dooper sonic.
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Old September 11th, 2018, 02:25 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boostdz View Post
It was more so for fresh air that was a look ittle cooler temp wise. I had seen some interests and some poor attempts at doing a ram air intake. So I will just sell this one. I was just curious how people felt about it. I spent a lot if time making it and it seemed to pick up a little mph on the straight. It dyno'd at 46 hp. With everything else stock. So... not sure. I did the tune and know there is more to be had... I just dont know enough about tuning to get it.
General rule of thumb is every 10F degrees you cool intake-air, you get +1% more power.
Did you measure air-temp in airbox before & after?
Also before & after dyno-tests to determine exactly how much mod contributed?
Please post dyno-chart. Thx
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Old September 11th, 2018, 02:53 AM   #16
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46hp,? Stock with the addition of the snorkle?
How?
How did the ram air effect work when your stationary on a dyno?
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Old September 11th, 2018, 06:14 AM   #17
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46hp,? Stock with the addition of the snorkle?
How?
How did the ram air effect work when your stationary on a dyno?
Ya - that doesn't add up...
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Old September 11th, 2018, 07:18 AM   #18
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The dyno used had air that followed with the speed of the bike. The faster the bike the harder the simulated air was. Which is why I chose that shop to use. I couldn't get any print outs of ther dyno. Something was going on and he couldn't get it to work. I can only go by what the dyno said on the screen.
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Old September 11th, 2018, 07:23 AM   #19
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As far as before and after dynos. The shop I had to use for the specific dyno was 3 hours away. So... repeated visits was not something I was excited about. And since I had to cut a hole in the air box and tie the piping. And the only way to install the airbox is from the back. Swapping it back and forth was not a quick and easy process and would take hours, and dyno time is by the hour. So, being able to do a before and after would be pricey and pretty much unnecessary except for comparison
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Old September 11th, 2018, 08:03 AM   #20
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As far as before and after dynos. The shop I had to use for the specific dyno was 3 hours away. So... repeated visits was not something I was excited about. And since I had to cut a hole in the air box and tie the piping. And the only way to install the airbox is from the back. Swapping it back and forth was not a quick and easy process and would take hours, and dyno time is by the hour. So, being able to do a before and after would be pricey and pretty much unnecessary except for comparison
True, but it's the only way to know if you have made improvements or not.

You would have needed to create a baseline with the bike before you started your mods, then bring it back again after it was completed.

If you like it - run it, but even it situations where the factory has designed a full ram-air system (that even runs directly through the steering head) the gains are not outstanding until speeds are close to maximum. Even then, something like 5 additional HP doesn't gain you much (compared to reducing drag).
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Old September 11th, 2018, 08:32 AM   #21
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True, but it's the only way to know if you have made improvements or not.

You would have needed to create a baseline with the bike before you started your mods, then bring it back again after it was completed.

If you like it - run it, but even it situations where the factory has designed a full ram-air system (that even runs directly through the steering head) the gains are not outstanding until speeds are close to maximum. Even then, something like 5 additional HP doesn't gain you much (compared to reducing drag).
Yea... I was. I was racing and seemed to be pulling all the guys in my weight class. Keeping up with the little kids down the straights a little better. But the non oring master link clip came off and sent the chain through the block. So.. I decided to part the bike out. But before selling this intake, I decided to join the forum to see if anybody would be interested in it. Nothing more. I already have a guy interested in buying it from me. But once it is gone.. it is gone. So... I wont be making another. I am gonna give the Yamaha R3 a go and build one of those. See what it can do. It feels a lot stronger on the bottom end.
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Old September 11th, 2018, 09:15 AM   #22
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Quote:
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Yea... I was. I was racing and seemed to be pulling all the guys in my weight class. Keeping up with the little kids down the straights a little better. But the non oring master link clip came off and sent the chain through the block. So.. I decided to part the bike out. But before selling this intake, I decided to join the forum to see if anybody would be interested in it. Nothing more. I already have a guy interested in buying it from me. But once it is gone.. it is gone. So... I wont be making another. I am gonna give the Yamaha R3 a go and build one of those. See what it can do. It feels a lot stronger on the bottom end.
Maybe there is someone here that is interested.

Speaking of R3s, I did some work on this R3 a friend is running -



He had been running a SV, but is having more fun on the R3.

You may want to check out Spears - https://www.spearsenterprises.com/
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Old September 11th, 2018, 09:25 AM   #23
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I just ordered my K-tech suspension for it. I have somebody that will buy the intake. I am still parting out what is left of my Ninja though. Once its gone. I will be putting the finished in the R3.
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Old September 11th, 2018, 10:01 AM   #24
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another reason to never use a clip style master link.
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Old September 11th, 2018, 11:34 AM   #25
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another reason to never use a clip style master link.
My son tossed a chain on his VFR because of a clip masterlink. Luckily it only cracked the tailsection, which was repairable. Messing up the cases is a whole different ballgame.

He's using a rivet masterlink now.
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Old September 11th, 2018, 12:43 PM   #26
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My son tossed a chain on his VFR because of a clip masterlink. Luckily it only cracked the tailsection, which was repairable. Messing up the cases is a whole different ballgame.

He's using a rivet masterlink now.
i used one on a gsxr, one day on the way to work i started hearing the chain sound loose, the clip had come off, and th elink was backing out, but each time the link would rotate around a certain spot it would strike the swingarm and knock its self back in place. i came very close to losing the chain. i'd hate to wrap my rear sprocket and lock the rear tire down on a turn on the highway. could get nasty real quick like
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Old September 11th, 2018, 05:16 PM   #27
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Sure that shop wasn't using some software that gave you a "corrected" number to estimate crank hp instead of wheel hp?
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