August 15th, 2016, 11:41 AM | #41 | |
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August 15th, 2016, 11:43 AM | #42 |
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here are the parts, I asked the seller about that crack.gouge on the right piece, he said it was just a gouge, I assume since I would use a sealant it wouldnt be an issue?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/331937661630...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT |
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August 15th, 2016, 11:48 AM | #43 |
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I wouldn't buy a case that had a gouge that large in it. If it's not cracked now, the gouge will be a weak point for a crack to start.
I'm anal retentive when it comes to my machines. It's either done 100% perfect or it's not done. Take my advice for what you will!
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August 15th, 2016, 11:51 AM | #44 | |
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August 15th, 2016, 11:54 AM | #45 |
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A matched pair is the right path to go.
In the mean time, look for other damage inside the cases and gears. Having it go into gear without the engine running typically requires moving the output shaft back and forth anyway. I also looked at several parts fiches and from what I can see, that is the only bearing stay on that shaft. There is another one in the fiche but it's for the output shaft. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, please....because if that's the only stay, it definitely shouldn't be run.
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August 15th, 2016, 03:43 PM | #46 | |
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August 15th, 2016, 03:46 PM | #47 | |
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1. new motor $500 2. new case, so I know the bearings have to be pressed in, would I be able to get away with just a new top part where I broke it? for example http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kawasaki-Nin...hSoUHE&vxp=mtr |
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August 15th, 2016, 04:16 PM | #48 | |
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August 15th, 2016, 04:19 PM | #49 |
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August 15th, 2016, 04:38 PM | #50 |
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Very easy to replace the case. Definitely don't just replace part of it. Double check the timing chain and do not unbolt the rods from the crank. You can just pull the head and cylinders . Then pull the crank assemble all together.
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August 15th, 2016, 04:41 PM | #51 |
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so when you say part of it, what do you mean exactly? I though you had to replace to bearings because they are different sizes based on the case and all of that crap.
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August 15th, 2016, 05:05 PM | #52 |
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Well the bearings are sized and you should plastiguage the crank bearings. When you pull your case apart you will see blue paint marks on the case and bearing edge. Maybe brown but probubly blue. When you get the new case hopefully it will have blue paint marks. That would indicate all the bearings are the first size and you will probubly be OK. But using plastiguage to check the clearance. How many miles is the broken engine?
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August 15th, 2016, 05:06 PM | #53 | |
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August 15th, 2016, 05:22 PM | #54 | |
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August 15th, 2016, 05:40 PM | #55 |
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So the bearing serface should be good as new. Keep the bearings and crank together and don't mix anything up.
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August 15th, 2016, 06:04 PM | #56 |
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Ok. I'll probably be starting to take it apart this week. Basically take the head off. Take the piston heads off. But keep the connecting rods attached to the crank and remove as 1 unit. Keep note of where the bearings are and keep with the same component when I get the case from eBay.
Do I have that all correct ? Should I get a new head gasket or would I be able to reuse this one |
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August 15th, 2016, 07:02 PM | #57 |
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Yes you got it
The rod bolts are a one time use thing and it will save you money keeping them. As for the gaskets. You should get new gasket and stuff. I use old gaskets sometimes . I clean up the old ones then scrub them with a light scotch bright careful not to bend them. Then coat both sides with copper spray. A couple nice even coats and let it dry. It works but I am not saying you should do it. I'm just cheap and take engines apart often. Remember to clean everything and then clean it again. Use lots of oil when reassembling the moving parts. I use Honda bond on the case half. I spread it on very thin. Use an acid brush to put on a thin layer. I also use a little on my finger and kinda rub the case half to make sure there is no oil or any reason the Honda bond won't stick.
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August 15th, 2016, 07:36 PM | #58 | |
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August 15th, 2016, 07:51 PM | #59 | |
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August 15th, 2016, 08:51 PM | #60 |
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I thought the bearing are pressed in? How can I keep the old bearings with the crank?
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August 16th, 2016, 02:00 AM | #61 |
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The bearings are split shells.
You don't need a flywheel puller. It is a bit fiddley but the pipes will come out around the flywheel. The flywheel is very tight. And it is a real bitch to remove. Also pay attention to the bolts in the case. Don't mix them up. Two of them have copper seals as washers . Also there are some hiding inside the oil filter and under the starter. So don't use much force to split the case. It pops apart pretty easy.
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August 16th, 2016, 03:53 AM | #62 | |
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One thing I did not think about is the c clips that hold the wrist pins. They should not be reused. Can you run forged Pistons ? It's another 300 bucks but 12.5 to one Pistons are nice.
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August 16th, 2016, 06:30 AM | #63 | |
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August 16th, 2016, 07:09 AM | #64 |
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The over bore makes installing the pistons a real frustrating chore. But with the stock bore it is easy. You still need to line up the rings and be very careful about the oil ring. The lower one can slip out and get bent.
Don't want to forget the base gasket either. That is somthing I have done. DAVID, I will assume you have the factory service manual. It's a good idea to read the whole chapter on assembly
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August 16th, 2016, 07:38 AM | #65 | |
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I ordered that case on ebay, you guys said it looked like it still has the bearings. So I wont have to worry about incorrect size bearings for that case. I remove the top end, after I remove the head I pull the pistons off, replacing the snap rings. Then I remove the crank with the rods still attached. Once I remove the 20 case bolts and split the case. Since I will be getting that matched case, I should literally just transplant all of my internals over to the new case. When I spoke with my local mechanic, he was going to rebuild it, but wanted all new bearings and stuff because of tolerances. That was going to cost me $900 or so to do that. This is a track bike, I ride 1 track day per month right now. So my main concern is just not starving the motor of oil or screwing it up so badly that I grenade the motor and hurt myself. Do I have this about right? |
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August 16th, 2016, 08:32 AM | #66 | |
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I would take pics of the bearing shells in the case and post them here so people who know what they're looking at can tell you if they're any good or not. Or have someone local to you that knows have a look see before reassembly. Other than those above items, it's going to be plug and play!
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August 16th, 2016, 08:36 AM | #67 | |
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by polish the crankshaft, do you mean doing like a wet sand with high grit sandpaper on the parts the rest inside the bearings? |
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August 16th, 2016, 08:49 AM | #68 | |
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Typically done with some emery cloth, leaving light score marks on the crank and getting rid of any wear or high spots. Kind of like a brake rotor, just a light scuffing to provide a new mating surface. The emery cloth comes in skinny strips that fit very well on the crank surface.
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August 16th, 2016, 08:56 AM | #69 | |
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jesus that plastigauge is not cheap http://www.jhps.com/mm5/merchant.mvc...Yes&Quantity=1 |
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August 16th, 2016, 09:03 AM | #70 | ||
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August 16th, 2016, 09:03 AM | #71 |
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ah ok, I wasnt sure if its something a local store would carry. You guys are awesome, I can't think everyone enough for walking me through this.
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August 16th, 2016, 09:05 AM | #72 |
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I would try Napa before O'Reilly's or Auto Zone. Try and find an industrial one that carries lots of parts.
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August 16th, 2016, 09:30 AM | #73 |
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The bearings are sized to the crank not the case. Look for the paint marks. If they match then you are good for sure and plastiguage will be to check the clearance. If it is within spec you are good. But use the original bearings that are in your broken case. They match the crank. If the tolerance is incorrect you should have the crank work done by a machinest.
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August 16th, 2016, 10:05 AM | #74 | |
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August 16th, 2016, 10:51 AM | #75 |
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I need to look at te pipe arrangement. But I think you can take the pipe loose and just work around the pipe. Then when you go back together you just have to lay the pipe in place befor you set the crankshaft in. I'll look tonight. It is all simple the second time around.
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August 16th, 2016, 10:59 AM | #76 |
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I want to say you have to remove the flywheel to get to the pipe. I forgot once and tried to force the pipe in which didn't work out so well for me.
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August 16th, 2016, 11:36 AM | #77 | |
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I could get into the whole bearing thing but its complicated. There's mark stamped on the crank and cases that decipher which bearings you should use. Get the ebay cases and yours apart, keep everything separate and lets see what engine has what in it. There will be a paint color code on the side of the bearing that determines its size. As far as new ones are concerned lets take a look at the used ones out of your engine. Typically these engines have very few miles on them and the old bearings are still useable.Remember these engines are designed to last well over 100,000 miles (don't quote me, that's a guess) so the 3000 on yours is just "broken in". |
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August 16th, 2016, 11:39 AM | #78 | |
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August 16th, 2016, 12:05 PM | #79 |
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August 16th, 2016, 12:23 PM | #80 | |
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Although, re-reading the manual the service limit is 0.0031 so I guess the green would work as a go no go if the X isn't available?
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