Ghetto Meadow Certified - project

UFOmoplata · January 3rd, 2016, 05:16 PM

Don't know what's going on. Bought a bike on craiglist. The guy's name was Craig too. actually I knew his son from RC racing. A coincidence. Sweet deal $500.

This bike 2007. Just needs center stand to kick stand and I was going to chop the exhaust.
Engine runs. Just has the engine my friend has a 2009 in 2007 bike. Silver plastics are also included but not pictured.

2009 is wrecked with a bent frame. $500 included all these extra parts from the 2009.

Trash pile

2007 engine i think. Ran before they took it out. 7600 miles.

"Maybe" parts

For sale parts

I may go street fighter/cafe route. My friend said just get it track ready, which sounds expensive. Already had a street/track car before.

Question: If red is the "fast" color. Green is the default color. Black is the cool color. Is silver the boring color?

csmith12 · January 3rd, 2016, 05:26 PM

Score!

UFOmoplata · January 13th, 2016, 08:44 PM

(Mods, please move this to pregen Farkles)

Riding season is approaching. Engine runs shittilly. More than likely will need to clean the carbs. Time to study that. It's been a long time since I've had black hands.

Ended the night like so: (I love my Mooneyes banner, so Cali.)

Would be hilarious to run the the tail like this: (right handle is bent, will get clip-ons)

Question:

What are these nipples/nozzles?

On top of the engine:

This is a cable on the carb, running to the clutch lever. What is?

UFOmoplata · January 13th, 2016, 10:54 PM

Couldn't keep away.

Played some more. Cleared away electrics. Is this a good one or will this one fry after so many amps?

Always like the old school headlight fairing only cafe bikes. Also, mixed with some bosozoku action. Party in the front, business in the rear.

Japan 2001. Best time for drifting. Street/broke boy style. Unfortunately, there's fitment issues with mine.

Old gen armor - New gen motor clearance: Radiator cap hits a little on the right. Barely clears on the left.

zoom in

Left side

UFOmoplata · January 17th, 2016, 08:08 PM

Mounted newgen tail lights. Did some electrical mounting. This PAWG is coming along great. What's not so great is the damn air box. It almost seems like less trouble to just get pod filters and jets.

Bigballsofpaint · January 19th, 2016, 12:56 PM

It is MUCH simpler to do pods and jets.....

The nozzles you were pointing to were for the EGR/clearn air/whatever you wanna call it system, you can buy a block off plate, and would have to if you remove the airbox anyway.

The cable I think is for the choke, not the clutch...I think.

Its funny you/PO swapped to the new gen motor. Its known for having slightly LESS power than the pre gens (maybe just because of the lower redline). But you get a little more mid range at least.

UFOmoplata · January 20th, 2016, 08:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bigballsofpaint

It is MUCH simpler to do pods and jets.....

The nozzles you were pointing to were for the EGR/clearn air/whatever you wanna call it system, you can buy a block off plate, and would have to if you remove the airbox anyway.

The cable I think is for the choke, not the clutch...I think.

Its funny you/PO swapped to the new gen motor. Its known for having slightly LESS power than the pre gens (maybe just because of the lower redline). But you get a little more mid range at least.

Cool, that's what I later found out. I'll take that off and get the block off plate. The one above it looks like the pregen thermostat housing that was simply left on even though the newgen thermostat is located next to the radiator.

I figured out it was the choke cable when I took the lever apart.

Out of curiosity, what are your mods and which jets did you end up using on yours?

Bigballsofpaint · January 20th, 2016, 09:21 AM

I bought the area P full race exhaust and they sell a dyno jet kit with it for a KN filter. I think I used 1 size up from the recommended Jet in the kit and dyno shows I wont be changing it so im happy since I hate carbs. If you want the exact needle size I can go check when im home, its one of the things I never cared to remember since I luckily got it right the first time.

JohnnyBravo · January 20th, 2016, 12:00 PM

Sweet rides n such

UFOmoplata · January 20th, 2016, 12:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bigballsofpaint

I bought the area P full race exhaust and they sell a dyno jet kit with it for a KN filter. I think I used 1 size up from the recommended Jet in the kit and dyno shows I wont be changing it so im happy since I hate carbs. If you want the exact needle size I can go check when im home, its one of the things I never cared to remember since I luckily got it right the first time.

Hmm.. since I don't have that exhaust, I'm guessing I'll stay with the recommended jet. I hate to make you go and take your bike apart for my sake, but if you could get back to me on which jet and needle Dyno suggests for a simple 0990 filter.

Bigballsofpaint · January 21st, 2016, 07:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by UFOmoplata

Hmm.. since I don't have that exhaust, I'm guessing I'll stay with the recommended jet. I hate to make you go and take your bike apart for my sake, but if you could get back to me on which jet and needle Dyno suggests for a simple 0990 filter.

There is a thread in the new gen forum with peoples bike setups. They give mods, jets, etc so im sure a read through there will give you all the info you need. I don't know the thread title, but it shouldn't be too far back in the pages.

I don't know the suggested jets for just a filter, I would think 2 sizes up since the bikes are lean stock. Im terrible with anything related to carbs because I just don't care to learn it lol.

UFOmoplata · January 21st, 2016, 08:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bigballsofpaint

I'm terrible with anything related to carbs because I just don't care to learn it lol.

Hey, I know what you mean. Just set it and quit it. Tuning is the worst.

Bigballsofpaint · January 21st, 2016, 09:14 AM

I felt like being nice. Here is the jetting database, it should help answer your questions.

https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=10208

UFOmoplata · January 22nd, 2016, 08:35 AM

Thanks a bunch. I'll try 110 jet at first.

UFOmoplata · January 27th, 2016, 10:17 AM

These are the correct shims for our carbs? Anyone? Beuller?

http://jetsrus.com/individual_parts/009_396_su.html

VaFish · January 27th, 2016, 10:23 AM

Go to Lowes, Home Depot or any well stocked hardware store. Get SAE #4 washers. Should be a few cents for a pack of 10-12.

UFOmoplata · January 28th, 2016, 08:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by VaFish

Go to Lowes, Home Depot or any well stocked hardware store. Get SAE #4 washers. Should be a few cents for a pack of 10-12.

Thanks!

UFOmoplata · January 30th, 2016, 02:40 PM

Nevermind

UFOmoplata · February 4th, 2016, 09:22 AM

What sort of improvements would I be looking at with 17" wheels/tires on an otherwise stock suspension (probably just 15wt fork oil)? Mostly just doing it for the bling factor.

I think that chain is that cheap ebay one, but it's less rusty than what was on there.

RacinNinja · February 4th, 2016, 10:12 AM

Improvements from the wheel itself? None. Improvements in tire choice? Endless!

Quite a popular mod in our race club for tire choice.

UFOmoplata · February 4th, 2016, 10:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RacinNinja

Improvements from the wheel itself? None. Improvements in tire choice? Endless!

Quite a popular mod in our race club for tire choice.

Sweet. I was afraid it might have adverse effects on handling.

RacinNinja · February 4th, 2016, 10:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by UFOmoplata

Sweet. I was afraid it might have adverse effects on handling.

It only would if you ran different sized tires. I would go with the new gen factory tire size to preserve handling.

Something to keep in mind...the rear sizes for the pre and post gen Ninja's come out to the same overall diameter. However, the fronts have a difference of about 13 mm, according to my math, the new gen being taller. Might have to consider that for the front fender and fork height. Might want to run a 140 in the rear. That's what the guys in my club do.

UFOmoplata · February 4th, 2016, 11:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RacinNinja

It only would if you ran different sized tires. I would go with the new gen factory tire size to preserve handling.

Something to keep in mind...the rear sizes for the pre and post gen Ninja's come out to the same overall diameter. However, the fronts have a difference of about 13 mm, according to my math, the new gen being taller. Might have to consider that for the front fender and fork height. Might want to run a 140 in the rear. That's what the guys in my club do.

So to stay symmetrical: 110/70/17 & 130/90/16, both Pirelli.

Don't want to go 140 just yet because that would mean I have to change the swingarm too.

Front fender can be raised easily, or run a new gen fender.

Thanks for your help!

taz · February 4th, 2016, 11:46 AM

140 fits in a pre gens swingarm just fine you could even sqweeze in a 150 posably

RacinNinja · February 4th, 2016, 11:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by UFOmoplata

So to stay symmetrical: 110/70/17 & 130/90/16, both Pirelli.

Don't want to go 140 just yet because that would mean I have to change the swingarm too.

Front fender can be raised easily, or just run a new gen fender.

Thanks for your help!

Oh, I was calculating for BOTH wheels to be 17", not just the front.....If you're going to do just the front, you'll need to lower the fork tubes in the clamps but I'm not sure how much. I'll have to do some maths and let you know.

UFOmoplata · February 4th, 2016, 11:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by taz

140 fits in a pre gens swingarm just fine you could even sqweeze in a 150 posably

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D2MPoqqzwdY

taz · February 4th, 2016, 11:52 AM

yea didnt catch the 16 rear

UFOmoplata · February 4th, 2016, 11:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RacinNinja

Oh, I was calculating for BOTH wheels to be 17", not just the front.....If you're going to do just the front, you'll need to lower the fork tubes in the clamps but I'm not sure how much. I'll have to do some maths and let you know.

No worries. My bike is retarded.

HoneyBadgerRy · February 4th, 2016, 12:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by UFOmoplata

Question: If red is the "fast" color. Green is the default color. Black is the cool color. Is silver the boring color?

Yes, and that is why my silver fairings got body work done, and are being painted green.

taz · February 4th, 2016, 12:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by UFOmoplata

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D2MPoqqzwdY

taz · February 4th, 2016, 12:17 PM

but is you put the 17" rear also on the 140 will fit. but seeing as your only doing the front for some reason thenthe 16" back is a diffrent game.

UFOmoplata · February 4th, 2016, 12:23 PM

I thought in order to run the new gen rear wheel, I need to change the swingarm also?

If I could change both without changing the swingarm, I'd do it.

taz · February 4th, 2016, 12:31 PM

you dont but it does take some work. The brake caliper holder on the rear on the swing arm side has to be milled down some, and then the brake its self has to be tweeked over to get in line with the rotor. i dont remember the exact amounts of it all but it is doable, z1rrider knows and can give you the full detales if you ask nicely.

Alex · February 4th, 2016, 01:18 PM

/moved to pre-gen farkles

InvisiBill · February 4th, 2016, 06:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by UFOmoplata

Is this a good one or will this one fry after so many amps?

It's a stock R/R (for the PreGen and EX500), which will do what stock ones do. https://www.ninjette.org/forums/show...639#post801639 and my following posts have a good bit of info about them. They're capable of putting out about 20A (~250W). They "fry" due to the electronics inside breaking down due to heat (exacerbated by the fact that this style is rather inefficient, causing it to generate even more heat). https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=213507 has info about the MOSFET conversion.

Quote:

Originally Posted by UFOmoplata

Did some electrical mounting.

Because of the heat issues, you may wish to mount the R/R elsewhere. Ideally you'd want it out in the airflow and/or bolted to a large piece of metal to act as a heatsink.

Quote:

Originally Posted by UFOmoplata

What sort of improvements would I be looking at with 17" wheels/tires on an otherwise stock suspension (probably just 15wt fork oil)?

Get new fork springs. The stockers are worthless for anyone big enough to reach the controls. Depending on your weight, the NewGen springs from your pile of parts might work well. https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=231171

NewGen/300 swingarms are pretty cheap. I'm not sure how much it would cost to get the full rear axle setup (with all the spacers, brake bracket, etc.), but my understanding is that it should be a pretty PnP swap if you were to get all those parts. It means buying a few more things, but it should save a bunch of work trying to make things fit. I got lucky with my bike in that the axle stuff is mostly identical between the NewGen and 500.

UFOmoplata · February 5th, 2016, 07:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by InvisiBill

It's a stock R/R (for the PreGen and EX500), which will do what stock ones do. https://www.ninjette.org/forums/show...639#post801639 and my following posts have a good bit of info about them. They're capable of putting out about 20A (~250W). They "fry" due to the electronics inside breaking down due to heat (exacerbated by the fact that this style is rather inefficient, causing it to generate even more heat). https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=213507 has info about the MOSFET conversion.

Because of the heat issues, you may wish to mount the R/R elsewhere. Ideally you'd want it out in the airflow and/or bolted to a large piece of metal to act as a heatsink.

That's what I thought that location was pretty sketchy especially since the seat smashes it. I've moved it to a lower position. It should be good now.

Quote:

Originally Posted by InvisiBill

Get new fork springs. The stockers are worthless for anyone big enough to reach the controls. Depending on your weight, the NewGen springs from your pile of parts might work well. https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=231171

I weigh about 160lbs so .7 Sonic springs will be ordered eventually.

RacinNinja · February 5th, 2016, 11:40 AM

Ok, let's do some Maths! As my favorite YouTuber would say....

100/80-16 front. 16 inches is 406 mm. 80% of 100 mm is 80 mm, that gives us an overall diameter of 486 mm.

110/70-17 front. 17 inches is 432 mm. 70% of 110mm is 77mm, giving us an overall diamter of 509 mm.

That's a difference of 23mm! This would definitely affect your handling, simply swapping front to front and not changing tire size.

I can't recommend a front wheel swap without swapping the rear too. Sure, you could get a 100/70-17 for the front but that's only good for 7 mm, leaving a 16 mm difference.

IMO, you would need to increase rear ride height 16mm to offset the difference. I don't like dropping the forks in the clamps, especially with undersprung bikes because the tire could hit the fairing.

Up to you! If my math is off, feel free to correct me.

RacinNinja · February 5th, 2016, 11:43 AM

Rear tires....

130/80-16. 16 inches is 406mm. 80% of 130 is 104mm, giving the rear overall 510mm. Increasing the size to a 150/60-16...406mm plus 90mm (smaller height!) is only 496mm.

You would need a 150/80-16 and I'm not sure that would fit properly or at all.

UFOmoplata · February 5th, 2016, 11:33 PM

Well, I've reached an impasse. This project has been done in by the cooling system.

The new gen water plumbing and pre gen frame don't mix without custom fabrication of which I'm incapable of doing. This one may be parted soon.

Unless, someone knows a secret to making this work. I may just pick up another one that isn't crazy. I've learned a lot about this bike.

jkv45 · February 6th, 2016, 06:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by UFOmoplata

Well, I've reached an impasse. This project has been done in by the cooling system.

The new gen water plumbing and pre gen frame don't mix without custom fabrication of which I'm incapable of doing. This one may be parted soon.

Unless, someone knows a secret to making this work. I may just pick up another one that isn't crazy. I've learned a lot about this bike.

Can you post a photo showing the problem?

Someone here may have a solution.

January 3rd, 2016, 05:16 PM	#1
UFOmoplata ninjette.org member Name: Shoulder Blade Location: WV Join Date: Dec 2015 Motorcycle(s): 2007 Hoodrat 250 Posts: 242	Ghetto Meadow Certified - project Don't know what's going on. Bought a bike on craiglist. The guy's name was Craig too. actually I knew his son from RC racing. A coincidence. Sweet deal $500. This bike 2007. Just needs center stand to kick stand and I was going to chop the exhaust. Engine runs. Just has the engine my friend has a 2009 in 2007 bike. Silver plastics are also included but not pictured. 2009 is wrecked with a bent frame. $500 included all these extra parts from the 2009. Trash pile 2007 engine i think. Ran before they took it out. 7600 miles. "Maybe" parts For sale parts I may go street fighter/cafe route. My friend said just get it track ready, which sounds expensive. Already had a street/track car before. Question: If red is the "fast" color. Green is the default color. Black is the cool color. Is silver the boring color?
	1 out of 1 members found this post helpful.

January 3rd, 2016, 05:26 PM	#2
csmith12 The Corner Whisperer Name: Chris (aka Reactor) Location: Northern KY Join Date: May 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2010 250 (track), 1992 250, 2006 R6 (street/track), 2008 R6 (track) Posts: Too much. MOTY 2015, MOTM - Nov '12, Nov '13	Score! __________________________________________________ Goal: Shake A Million Hands \| Look through the corners \| Track Day Prep \| Closest track? \| The Mid-Ohio School

January 13th, 2016, 08:44 PM	#3
UFOmoplata ninjette.org member Name: Shoulder Blade Location: WV Join Date: Dec 2015 Motorcycle(s): 2007 Hoodrat 250 Posts: 242	(Mods, please move this to pregen Farkles) Riding season is approaching. Engine runs shittilly. More than likely will need to clean the carbs. Time to study that. It's been a long time since I've had black hands. Ended the night like so: (I love my Mooneyes banner, so Cali.) Would be hilarious to run the the tail like this: (right handle is bent, will get clip-ons) Question: What are these nipples/nozzles? On top of the engine: This is a cable on the carb, running to the clutch lever. What is? __________________________________________________ "Brah, you can't be looking like that on a 250, brah. You gotta mod a 250, brah. It's like the hachi-roku of bikes."

January 17th, 2016, 08:08 PM	#5
UFOmoplata ninjette.org member Name: Shoulder Blade Location: WV Join Date: Dec 2015 Motorcycle(s): 2007 Hoodrat 250 Posts: 242	Mounted newgen tail lights. Did some electrical mounting. This PAWG is coming along great. What's not so great is the damn air box. It almost seems like less trouble to just get pod filters and jets. __________________________________________________ "Brah, you can't be looking like that on a 250, brah. You gotta mod a 250, brah. It's like the hachi-roku of bikes."

January 19th, 2016, 12:56 PM	#6
Bigballsofpaint ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Jay Location: CT Join Date: Apr 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2015 636 ABS - 69 Honda 305 Posts: A lot.	It is MUCH simpler to do pods and jets..... The nozzles you were pointing to were for the EGR/clearn air/whatever you wanna call it system, you can buy a block off plate, and would have to if you remove the airbox anyway. The cable I think is for the choke, not the clutch...I think. Its funny you/PO swapped to the new gen motor. Its known for having slightly LESS power than the pre gens (maybe just because of the lower redline). But you get a little more mid range at least. __________________________________________________ Current - 2015 30th Anniversary Ninja 636 ABS - 1969 Honda 305 Scrambler Previously - 2011 Ninja 1000, 2008 Ducati 848, 2011 Ninja 250 SE

January 13th, 2016, 10:54 PM	#4
UFOmoplata ninjette.org member Name: Shoulder Blade Location: WV Join Date: Dec 2015 Motorcycle(s): 2007 Hoodrat 250 Posts: 242	Couldn't keep away. Played some more. Cleared away electrics. Is this a good one or will this one fry after so many amps? Always like the old school headlight fairing only cafe bikes. Also, mixed with some bosozoku action. Party in the front, business in the rear. Japan 2001. Best time for drifting. Street/broke boy style. Unfortunately, there's fitment issues with mine. Old gen armor - New gen motor clearance: Radiator cap hits a little on the right. Barely clears on the left. zoom in Left side __________________________________________________ "Brah, you can't be looking like that on a 250, brah. You gotta mod a 250, brah. It's like the hachi-roku of bikes." Last futzed with by UFOmoplata; January 14th, 2016 at 09:53 AM.

January 20th, 2016, 09:21 AM	#8
Bigballsofpaint ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Jay Location: CT Join Date: Apr 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2015 636 ABS - 69 Honda 305 Posts: A lot.	I bought the area P full race exhaust and they sell a dyno jet kit with it for a KN filter. I think I used 1 size up from the recommended Jet in the kit and dyno shows I wont be changing it so im happy since I hate carbs. If you want the exact needle size I can go check when im home, its one of the things I never cared to remember since I luckily got it right the first time. __________________________________________________ Current - 2015 30th Anniversary Ninja 636 ABS - 1969 Honda 305 Scrambler Previously - 2011 Ninja 1000, 2008 Ducati 848, 2011 Ninja 250 SE

January 20th, 2016, 12:00 PM	#9
JohnnyBravo Certifiable nontundrum Name: Harper Location: NC Milkshake stand Join Date: Mar 2013 Motorcycle(s): 2013 SE NINJA 300 Posts: Too much. MOTM - Sep '13, Sep '16	Sweet rides n such __________________________________________________

January 21st, 2016, 09:14 AM	#13
Bigballsofpaint ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Jay Location: CT Join Date: Apr 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2015 636 ABS - 69 Honda 305 Posts: A lot.	I felt like being nice. Here is the jetting database, it should help answer your questions. https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=10208 __________________________________________________ Current - 2015 30th Anniversary Ninja 636 ABS - 1969 Honda 305 Scrambler Previously - 2011 Ninja 1000, 2008 Ducati 848, 2011 Ninja 250 SE

January 22nd, 2016, 08:35 AM	#14
UFOmoplata ninjette.org member Name: Shoulder Blade Location: WV Join Date: Dec 2015 Motorcycle(s): 2007 Hoodrat 250 Posts: 242	Thanks a bunch. I'll try 110 jet at first. __________________________________________________ "Brah, you can't be looking like that on a 250, brah. You gotta mod a 250, brah. It's like the hachi-roku of bikes."

January 27th, 2016, 10:17 AM	#15
UFOmoplata ninjette.org member Name: Shoulder Blade Location: WV Join Date: Dec 2015 Motorcycle(s): 2007 Hoodrat 250 Posts: 242	These are the correct shims for our carbs? Anyone? Beuller? http://jetsrus.com/individual_parts/009_396_su.html __________________________________________________ "Brah, you can't be looking like that on a 250, brah. You gotta mod a 250, brah. It's like the hachi-roku of bikes."

January 27th, 2016, 10:23 AM	#16
VaFish ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Tom Location: Northern Virginia Join Date: Jul 2015 Motorcycle(s): 2001 Ninja 250, 2019 Harley Ultra Classic, 2001 Suzuki SV650 Posts: A lot. MOTM - Jan '16	Go to Lowes, Home Depot or any well stocked hardware store. Get SAE #4 washers. Should be a few cents for a pack of 10-12.

January 30th, 2016, 02:40 PM	#18
UFOmoplata ninjette.org member Name: Shoulder Blade Location: WV Join Date: Dec 2015 Motorcycle(s): 2007 Hoodrat 250 Posts: 242	Nevermind __________________________________________________ "Brah, you can't be looking like that on a 250, brah. You gotta mod a 250, brah. It's like the hachi-roku of bikes."

February 4th, 2016, 09:22 AM	#19
UFOmoplata ninjette.org member Name: Shoulder Blade Location: WV Join Date: Dec 2015 Motorcycle(s): 2007 Hoodrat 250 Posts: 242	What sort of improvements would I be looking at with 17" wheels/tires on an otherwise stock suspension (probably just 15wt fork oil)? Mostly just doing it for the bling factor. I think that chain is that cheap ebay one, but it's less rusty than what was on there. __________________________________________________ "Brah, you can't be looking like that on a 250, brah. You gotta mod a 250, brah. It's like the hachi-roku of bikes."

February 4th, 2016, 10:12 AM	#20
RacinNinja Vintage Screwball Name: B Location: Washington Join Date: Feb 2016 Motorcycle(s): 2011 Ninja 250, 2008 Ninja 250, 2019 KTM 1290SDR, 2017 FZ10 Posts: A lot. MOTM - Mar '16	Improvements from the wheel itself? None. Improvements in tire choice? Endless! Quite a popular mod in our race club for tire choice. __________________________________________________ Goin' fast on slow bikes!

February 4th, 2016, 11:46 AM	#24
taz ???????????????? Name: T Location: no where Join Date: Feb 2016 Motorcycle(s): 2007 ninja 250, 14 ninja 300, 09 1125CR Posts: A lot. MOTM - May '17	140 fits in a pre gens swingarm just fine you could even sqweeze in a 150 posably

February 4th, 2016, 11:52 AM	#27
taz ???????????????? Name: T Location: no where Join Date: Feb 2016 Motorcycle(s): 2007 ninja 250, 14 ninja 300, 09 1125CR Posts: A lot. MOTM - May '17	yea didnt catch the 16 rear

February 4th, 2016, 12:17 PM	#31
taz ???????????????? Name: T Location: no where Join Date: Feb 2016 Motorcycle(s): 2007 ninja 250, 14 ninja 300, 09 1125CR Posts: A lot. MOTM - May '17	but is you put the 17" rear also on the 140 will fit. but seeing as your only doing the front for some reason thenthe 16" back is a diffrent game.

February 4th, 2016, 12:23 PM	#32
UFOmoplata ninjette.org member Name: Shoulder Blade Location: WV Join Date: Dec 2015 Motorcycle(s): 2007 Hoodrat 250 Posts: 242	I thought in order to run the new gen rear wheel, I need to change the swingarm also? If I could change both without changing the swingarm, I'd do it. __________________________________________________ "Brah, you can't be looking like that on a 250, brah. You gotta mod a 250, brah. It's like the hachi-roku of bikes."

February 4th, 2016, 12:31 PM	#33
taz ???????????????? Name: T Location: no where Join Date: Feb 2016 Motorcycle(s): 2007 ninja 250, 14 ninja 300, 09 1125CR Posts: A lot. MOTM - May '17	you dont but it does take some work. The brake caliper holder on the rear on the swing arm side has to be milled down some, and then the brake its self has to be tweeked over to get in line with the rotor. i dont remember the exact amounts of it all but it is doable, z1rrider knows and can give you the full detales if you ask nicely.

February 4th, 2016, 01:18 PM	#34
Alex ninjette.org dude Name: 1 guess :-) Location: SF Bay Area Join Date: Jun 2008 Motorcycle(s): '13 Ninja 300 (white, the fastest color!), '13 R1200RT, '14 CRF250L, '12 TT-R125LE Posts: Too much. Blog Entries: 7	/moved to pre-gen farkles __________________________________________________ Montgomery Street Motorcycle Club / cal24.com / crf250l.org / ninjette.org ninjette.org Terms of Service Shopping for motorcycle parts or equipment? Come here first. The friendliest Ninja 250R/300/400 forum on the internet! (especially Unregistered)

February 5th, 2016, 11:40 AM	#37
RacinNinja Vintage Screwball Name: B Location: Washington Join Date: Feb 2016 Motorcycle(s): 2011 Ninja 250, 2008 Ninja 250, 2019 KTM 1290SDR, 2017 FZ10 Posts: A lot. MOTM - Mar '16	Ok, let's do some Maths! As my favorite YouTuber would say.... 100/80-16 front. 16 inches is 406 mm. 80% of 100 mm is 80 mm, that gives us an overall diameter of 486 mm. 110/70-17 front. 17 inches is 432 mm. 70% of 110mm is 77mm, giving us an overall diamter of 509 mm. That's a difference of 23mm! This would definitely affect your handling, simply swapping front to front and not changing tire size. I can't recommend a front wheel swap without swapping the rear too. Sure, you could get a 100/70-17 for the front but that's only good for 7 mm, leaving a 16 mm difference. IMO, you would need to increase rear ride height 16mm to offset the difference. I don't like dropping the forks in the clamps, especially with undersprung bikes because the tire could hit the fairing. Up to you! If my math is off, feel free to correct me. __________________________________________________ Goin' fast on slow bikes!

February 5th, 2016, 11:43 AM	#38
RacinNinja Vintage Screwball Name: B Location: Washington Join Date: Feb 2016 Motorcycle(s): 2011 Ninja 250, 2008 Ninja 250, 2019 KTM 1290SDR, 2017 FZ10 Posts: A lot. MOTM - Mar '16	Rear tires.... 130/80-16. 16 inches is 406mm. 80% of 130 is 104mm, giving the rear overall 510mm. Increasing the size to a 150/60-16...406mm plus 90mm (smaller height!) is only 496mm. You would need a 150/80-16 and I'm not sure that would fit properly or at all. __________________________________________________ Goin' fast on slow bikes!

February 5th, 2016, 11:33 PM	#39
UFOmoplata ninjette.org member Name: Shoulder Blade Location: WV Join Date: Dec 2015 Motorcycle(s): 2007 Hoodrat 250 Posts: 242	Well, I've reached an impasse. This project has been done in by the cooling system. The new gen water plumbing and pre gen frame don't mix without custom fabrication of which I'm incapable of doing. This one may be parted soon. Unless, someone knows a secret to making this work. I may just pick up another one that isn't crazy. I've learned a lot about this bike. __________________________________________________ "Brah, you can't be looking like that on a 250, brah. You gotta mod a 250, brah. It's like the hachi-roku of bikes."

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