Ecotrons Kit & Vendor Info

[Jiggles]

This thread is for any comments or concerns relating to anything except for the installation of the ecotrons kit.

[Jiggles]

Originally Posted by Super-Tune

Jiggles

With all due respect, you haven't even attempted to install yours as have half of the others. The kit takes modifications right out of the bubble wrap which instantly voids the warranty. From the PM's I have received, I am betting there will be a lot more put up on e-bay, close to half now.

Some are wondering if you received a little extra discount for pushing this If I were you, I would be laying very low as Matt is. Would you like links to forums were he has SPAMMED his wares under 3 and 4 user names to falsely promote it and been thrown off. Yeah, throw the blame on the end user that just spent a good chunk of money for what? That's forum loyalty.

LOOK AT THE ISSUES

The throttle bodies were not designed for this bike what so ever and shouldn't even be used.
The Software cal files needed immediate updating
A 42 psi system with no way to hold the lines onto the pump or regulator
Fuel line that I would not trust on a gravity feed system
Cheap worm clamps rather than fuel injection clamps
Cheap wiring terminals, crimped and not soldered. Many of mine pulled out
Nuts for O2 bungs
A fuel petcock that doesn't work
Slices of hose for throttle body couplers with no retaining ring?? No wonder they are falling off.

In today's economy we expect better than that.

I haven't tried to install the kit yet because I knew it would be a time consuming process and I knew I would run into unexpected problems that I would need to fix. The reason I haven't installed yet is because until I got the 650 the 250 was my main mode of transportation and I only have 1 day off per week. I've been waiting until I have enough time off to install the kit, probably during spring break or possibly even in the summer when I'm out of school.

This is a cheap kit, we all knew this. Research into converting bikes from carbs to EFI would show you that it can be a very expensive and time consuming process. Another member on this forum spent $1500 converting his bike, and he spent alot more time on it than any of us will need to. The ecotrons kit is put together for you, it has everything (well most) of what you need in order to install it. It's also offered at an extremely low price, $480 shipped with the group buy, significantly less than if you were to build this kit yourself.

And yes I did get a little extra discount, as did everyone else. I was originally only planning on having 3 people in the group buy for the 15% off. More people found interest so then we went for the 20% off. Even more people were interested so I asked matt if he would up the discount to 25% if we could get 10 people. And you know what matt did? He gave us 25% off for 5 people. So yes, I did get an extra discount, in fact I got everyone an extra discount.

Now then, you weren't a part of this group buy so I don't know why you care. Second, you are not a member of this forum, you have only come on here to stir up trouble talking about class action lawsuits and lawyers. And then you threaten me and falsely accuse me of an underhanded deal? Who exactly do you think you are?

People knew what they were getting into with buying this kit. I posted up the link to the DIY so everyone could see what installing this would take. Anyone who didn't read through the DIY and didn't know what they were getting into, well, thats too bad for them. This is a major modification to the bike. People should have done their research, just as I did. Following the DIY would have led to successful installation with few problems.

Let's look at the issues.

The throttle bodies, a used oem throttle body would have been an additional $199. Clearly, we were getting a cheap alternative. This cheap throttlebody still works fine.

The software needed to be updated. Yea well so did my computer when I first bought it, and my phone, and my mp3 player, and blu ray player, and virtually every other electronic product I've ever bought. This is not an issue, this is an industry standard and shows that support is being given for the product.

The rest of the issues, the kit works fine for forbitel, again its a cheap economic kit, I'm not sure what you were expecting for such a low price.

Oh and as far as Matt marketing his product on other forums, I don't see a problem with that. If I had a product for motorcycle enthusiasts I would do the same thing, in fact, many vendors come onto this site in order to sell their products. It's called advertising my friend.

[Super-Tune]

I don't think this is what moderation was exactly suggesting.

But, since you did put this together and did receive a "Little extra discount" Can we send the kits back to you because Matt has stopped answering my e-mails and phone calls go unanswered. So much for his warranty and tech support.

Regarding cost: Another re-seller is purchasing the ECU for $75.00 from Matt (and he usually doubles his cost) and the TB's can be purchased in 100 lot for $800.00 out of China. There isn't $100.00 in the entire kit.

I am a member and came here because Matt has stopped answering my requests for help. I have more kits than the entire group buy purchased together. You would think someone that has purchased that many kits would get a little better treatment than that.

I hope the "little extra discount" you received for pushing this group buy without doing your homework or even installing a kit yourself is worth the fallout... I haven't threatened you anywhere on this forum so you may want to stick to facts.

[Jiggles]

Originally Posted by Super-Tune

I don't think this is what moderation was exactly suggesting.

Regardless, if you have issues with ecotrons, or matt, or the quality of the kit, put it here. Some people seem to have been misinformed of what they were getting and it would be best to prevent that in the future.

[Super-Tune]

Smartest thing you have posted yet. Like I said... do your homework.

Shame on me... I didn't and am paying for it now but have decided to seek legal action. Despite how good something sounds, I should have checked the following first.

Is Ecotrons registered as a business in any state? NO
Does Ecotrons have a physical location? NO
Does Ecotrons ship from within the US? No, product comes direct from Hong Kong

[flynjay]

@Jiggles negotiated a discount for the entire group. As far as I know he paid exactly the same amount as everyone else in the group.

My install has worked exactly as described (700+ miles) except for one thing that was quickly corrected by Matt at no extra cost to myself.

[n4mwd]

Originally Posted by Jiggles

You saw the full DIY write up for this kit and still decided to buy it. Then instead of following the DIY you tried to customize it. Greg spent around $1500 converting his bike to EFI so I'm wondering what exactly you were expecting out of a kit that's 1/3 the price.

Many of the problems with the kit were not obvious from the DIY. Where did it say that the throttle bodies came bolted together crooked? I made it clear from the start that the EFI kit had to be as reliable as the unmodified carbed bike. I was led to believe that it was. Several of the guys that followed the DIY instructions have been stranded. Does that sound like it is as reliable as an unmodified bike?

@greg737 did spend a pile of money converting his bike, but a lot of that money was for R&D, trial and error, stuff like that. If he were to convert a second bike, he could do it for a fraction of that. The ecotrons kit was supposed to take all the R&D stuff out of the equation and let us just bolt it on.

@greg737 was in fact the person who first pointed out the fault with the throttle body pulleys and the Forbitel mods. I hope Greg chimes in here, but somehow I don't think he has any plans to rip out his OEM throttle body and replace it with an ecotrons TB. But if he does, mine is for sale.

But as for you Jiggles, I am curious why you are so condescending of my decision to sell my kit because of its many faults when you haven't even attempted to install yours. Install your kit without any deviation from the instructions, then get back to me.

[Jiggles]

Originally Posted by Super-Tune

Regarding cost: Another re-seller is purchasing the ECU for $75.00 from Matt (and he usually doubles his cost) and the TB's can be purchased in 100 lot for $800.00 out of China. There isn't $100.00 in the entire kit.

You are forgetting all the other elements of the kit. You also sound like one of those people who complains that iPhones retail for $650 yet only cost $118 in parts to make. There are other elements to the price like labor, shipping, etc, oh and don't forget profit, he has to actually make money for all of his time and effort.

Originally Posted by Super-Tune

I am a member and came here because Matt has stopped answering my requests for help. I have more kits than the entire group buy purchased together. You would think someone that has purchased that many kits would get a little better treatment than that.

So now we get to the real issue, I'll go out on a limb here and guess you were planning on installing these kits for people for a premium. But rather than test out one kit, you foolishly decided to buy them all at once and then realized they were not quite as easy to install as you had originally expected. You failed to do your research and made a silly business venture and are now trying to garner support for legal action for something that was your own fault in the first place.

Not one person on this forum has been disappointed with Matt's customer service, we have found that he is prompt and loyal to his customers. I don't know what your interactions were with him, but I can say for sure that the one thing all of us on this forum can agree on is that Matt provides excellent customer service.

Originally Posted by Super-Tune

But, since you did put this together and did receive a "Little extra discount" Can we send the kits back to you because Matt has stopped answering my e-mails and phone calls go unanswered. So much for his warranty and tech support.

Again dude, you have never been involved with this forum or group buy

Originally Posted by Super-Tune

I hope the "little extra discount" you received for pushing this group buy without doing your homework or even installing a kit yourself is worth the fallout... I haven't threatened you anywhere on this forum so you may want to stick to facts.

I paid the same price as everyone else.

[n4mwd]

Um, that shows that you received the same invoice as everyone else. It does not show that you actually paid it. In fact, it still says "PAY INVOICE".

Originally Posted by Jiggles

I paid the same price as everyone else.

[Jiggles]

Originally Posted by n4mwd

But as for you Jiggles, I am curious why you are so condescending of my decision to sell my kit because of its many faults when you haven't even attempted to install yours. Install your kit without any deviation from the instructions, then get back to me.

Perhaps I had different expectations than you did. I don't know what all of the problems you have run into are, but I do see successful installations of this kit, so I have to wonder if the reason you could not get it to work is because of your own modifications or actual faults with the kit.

Listen, you've been very helpful to the whole installation process and I have nothing against you. I'm sorry the kit didn't work out for you, hopefully I'll have better luck and I'll get back to you when I find time to install it.

[Jiggles]

Originally Posted by n4mwd

Um, that shows that you received the same invoice as everyone else. It does not show that you actually paid it. In fact, it still says "PAY INVOICE".

You gotta be kidding me... Happy? Next lets start exclaiming that I've doctored the screenshot to indicate a lower price kay?

[Super-Tune]

flynjay: I too have engines that run and function well. So well, Matt has again without my permission posting my Dyno runs on his web site saying we had great success with his system. Riding my coat tails when there was nothing left of his system on the engine.



After:

1. Replacing the throttle body with a new quality unit
2. Replacing the TPS with a quality unit
3. Shielding the VR sensor wiring (this is a huge issue I have brought to Matt's attention time and time again. it is not even twisted pair and he has no intention of fixing it)
4. Soldering all terminals... wait till you start putting some serous miles and vibration on the "taped together "loom.
5. Replaced the fuel pump with a unit that 1. didn't leak, 2. didn't have more ports than a ship yard and 3. could handle the demand of the engine.
6. Replaced all fuel lines with quality high pressure fuel line.
7. Replaced all clamps with quality fuel injection clamps
8. Replaced the regulator with a quality regulator with true fuel injection fittings.
9. And most of all, hundreds of hours in calibrating the files to where my engines runs strong and don't blow holes in the pistons as the out of the box cal did.

What does that leave in the kit? An ECU board Matt so proudly hangs his hat on. The only item that he doesn't have much say so over is the only item I would purchase from him.

Forums are for learning, whether it be good or bad. I am a moderator on the largest Direct Fuel Injected forum in the US with over 10,000 posts and highly respected.

Whether I am an end user or Engineer doing this longer than Matt has been alive, If I purchase something to use, try or test, I sure the hell expect the respect of the seller. Not answering phone calls or e-mails after the thousands I have spent, maybe he will answer to my lawyer which believe me is my very last resort. I even asked if I should ask my questions here because he wouldn't reply to my e-mails and it appears he answers you guys.

I could have popped in here a long time ago and helped but he has personally threatened me not to. Well, now that I have no interest in doing any business with him in the future, he can threaten me all he wants.

He has shared personal calibrations without my permission. Calibrations I have hundreds of hours into,

How many of you have been asked to send him your working A2L file and CAL file?

n4mwd said it best: Install your kit without any deviation from the instructions, then get back to me.

All I can add at this point is Buyer beware.

[n4mwd]

Originally Posted by Jiggles

You gotta be kidding me... Happy? Next lets start exclaiming that I've doctored the screenshot to indicate a lower price kay?

Not a problem, but did you know that in your first screenshot you carefully doctored it to obscure your personal name and email address, but then left your paypal web key out in the open.

Regarding your prior comment, the guys that have installed their kits and gotten their bikes to run have been getting stranded. That means they installed it, but not successfully. Most recently because of the MAP sensor getting filled with gasoline. This is a design defect. OEM throttle bodies don't do that. The last I saw, they were investigating workarounds to trap the gas before it could clog the sensor. But the point is, they shouldn't HAVE to do that.

Those guys are smart and I have no doubt that if they beat on it long enough, they will eventually whip it into working reliably. Nevertheless, there was no way to know this would happen just by looking at the instructions.

Although the kit has other faults, the biggest by far has been the throttle body. If I can't sell my kit then I will probably try again at a later date with a different throttle body. Either that or solve the problem like you did - buy a 650.

[Jiggles]

Originally Posted by n4mwd

Not a problem, but did you know that in your first screenshot you carefully doctored it to obscure your personal name and email address, but then left your paypal web key out in the open.

Although the kit has other faults, the biggest by far has been the throttle body. If I can't sell my kit then I will probably try again at a later date with a different throttle body. Either that or solve the problem like you did - buy a 650.

Whoops! I didn't even know what that was haha.

And I didn't get a 650 for the fuel injection lol, I got it because it's comfier than the 250

Anyway, I'm looking forward to the install, I considered selling my kit to someone locally simply because I'm having a hard time finding enough time to devote to this project, but I decided I'll just wait until my schedule clears up. Or maybe I'll work on it sporadically since I now have another bike to use as my main mode of transportation.

[n4mwd]

Originally Posted by Super-Tune

1. Replacing the throttle body with a new quality unit
2. Replacing the TPS with a quality unit
3. Shielding the VR sensor wiring (this is a huge issue I have brought to Matt's attention time and time again. it is not even twisted pair and he has no intention of fixing it)
4. Soldering all terminals... wait till you start putting some serous miles and vibration on the "taped together "loom.
5. Replaced the fuel pump with a unit that 1. didn't leak, 2. didn't have more ports than a ship yard and 3. could handle the demand of the engine.
6. Replaced all fuel lines with quality high pressure fuel line.
7. Replaced all clamps with quality fuel injection clamps
8. Replaced the regulator with a quality regulator with true fuel injection fittings.
9. And most of all, hundreds of hours in calibrating the files to where my engines runs strong and don't blow holes in the pistons.

Questions:

1. Throttle Body: Preaching to the choir.

2. TPS: I didn't get far enough into it to observe problems with the TPS. What problems have you noted? The OEM TPS uses the same connector.

3. VR: What is the VR sensor? Are you referring to the Crank Position Sensor? On our kits, Matt just taps into the existing wiring at the igniter box. That is, remove the igniter and replace it with the ecotrons ECU.

4. Harness: The wiring harness is definitely made from wound electrical tape. I can't tell if the connectors are soldered, but they look crimped. It does look fairly solid.

5. Fuel Pump: When you say it leaked, do you mean the pump itself or the connections? The only thing about the pump I know so far is that the "bubbler" port is just another intake. So by connecting it to the output of the pressure regulator means that you are recycling fuel without going back to the tank for cooling. This is probably OK as long as the regulator is mounted above the pump. A test install made from clear tubing would be nice to see what is really going on in there.

6. Fuel lines: Definitely buy some new 1/4" fuel line. The pump is 1/4" and the regulator and injectors are 5/16". The low pressure tubing is flexible enough to stretch, but the high pressure stuff wont.

7. Clamps: Using the proper kind of clamps is what separates the pros from the amateurs. The water hose clamps don't provide an even squeeze around the hose, whereas the fuel injection clamps do.

8. Regulator: I can't say much bad about the regulator. We have learned to coexist. The barbless fittings work well with custom machined O-ring connections. Its also possible to pop the regulator out of the plastic housing and fit that to a custom machined interface. That way you have only one connection to worry about.

9. Cal Files: None of the guys in the group buy have complained about holes in their pistons, but several have complained about their throttle bodies blowing off after a backfire.

While I still say the TB is the biggest flaw, I also have problems with the ECU. The ECU has a direct connection to the battery which means that it can drain the battery when the bike is off. Matt says that it has to be this way, as opposed to just using switched power, because the ECU needs to write log data after shutdown. My point is that he should be writing data on the fly so that the unit can simply be switched off and powered through the igniter connector. But don't get me wrong, this is a minor problem compared to everything else.

[n4mwd]

Originally Posted by Jiggles

And I didn't get a 650 for the fuel injection lol, I got it because it's comfier than the 250

Comfier? The last time I checked, the 650 is basically a beefed up 250 with a bigger engine and fuel injection. Looking at your photo, its hard to tell which is which. They both have the same riding posture. The ZX-6R is the one with the face-in-the-bars riding posture. I was told that the 250 and 650 are classified as sport bikes whereas the ZX series is classified as Supersport bikes.

Anyhow, now that you have a 650, you can afford the down time to install your EFI kit on the 250. If your ultimate goal is to sell your 250, and if the EFI kit really is as good as you believe, then it will increase the resale value.

[Jiggles]

Originally Posted by n4mwd

Comfier? The last time I checked, the 650 is basically a beefed up 250 with a bigger engine and fuel injection. Looking at your photo, its hard to tell which is which. They both have the same riding posture. The ZX-6R is the one with the face-in-the-bars riding posture. I was told that the 250 and 650 are classified as sport bikes whereas the ZX series is classified as Supersport bikes.

Anyhow, now that you have a 650, you can afford the down time to install your EFI kit on the 250. If your ultimate goal is to sell your 250, and if the EFI kit really is as good as you believe, then it will increase the resale value.

Actually I would describe the 650 as having more of a sport touring feel. They look very similiar but you are so much more spaced out on the 650 and you can sit straight up if you like. For twisties, I feel more comfortable on the 250, for commuting and touring, definitely the 650.

I'm planning on keeping the 250 forever. And the issue is my school and work schedule. I only have 1 day off each week which I usually use to do homework so I'll probably tackle this during spring break or summer time.

[Super-Tune]

I'll answer within your quote so it is easier to see.

Originally Posted by n4mwd

Questions:

1. Throttle Body: Preaching to the choir.

2. TPS: I didn't get far enough into it to observe problems with the TPS. What problems have you noted? The OEM TPS uses the same connector.
The TPS is of poor quality, not a laser cut carbon bridge as they usually are.

3. VR: What is the VR sensor? Yes, Variable reluctance Sensor. At the least, you use twisted pair wiring to avoid EMI from the ignition system. If the VR wiring gets anywhere near the plug wires or coil you will have false triggering resulting in poor power and as bad as back firing which is probably what is popping some of the TB's completely off. In the industry you use twisted pair high conductor count wire and can also shield it with a drain wire. My first engine went from 13HP to 19.5HP just by fixing this issue. Are you referring to the Crank Position Sensor? On our kits, Matt just taps into the existing wiring at the igniter box. That is, remove the igniter and replace it with the ecotrons ECU.

4. Harness: The wiring harness is definitely made from wound electrical tape. I can't tell if the connectors are soldered, but they look crimped. It does look fairly solid. One look at the battery pos and neg connectors will tell you they are very low quality crimp connectors. Tug on the fuse connection, mine pull right out. That was my first of many failures leaving me walking.

5. Fuel Pump: When you say it leaked, do you mean the pump itself or the connections? Matt said they had issues with the pumps. Mine leaked right out of the terminals. The only thing about the pump I know so far is that the "bubbler" port is just another intake. So by connecting it to the output of the pressure regulator means that you are recycling fuel without going back to the tank for cooling. This is probably OK as long as the regulator is mounted above the pump. A test install made from clear tubing would be nice to see what is really going on in there. You mean your pumps don't have 4 ports in which 1 is capped off with a crimped over piece of rubber hose?

6. Fuel lines: Definitely buy some new 1/4" fuel line. The pump is 1/4" and the regulator and injectors are 5/16". The low pressure tubing is flexible enough to stretch, but the high pressure stuff wont. I don't know what kind of tubing this is but it is by far fuel injection line. The early gray stuff petrified after just a week of running fuel through it. This is all nickel and dime parts that you are risking your life and others with.

7. Clamps: Using the proper kind of clamps is what separates the pros from the amateurs. The water hose clamps don't provide an even squeeze around the hose, whereas the fuel injection clamps do.
Exactly... another dime item

8. Regulator: I can't say much bad about the regulator. We have learned to coexist. The barbless fittings work well with custom machined O-ring connections. Its also possible to pop the regulator out of the plastic housing and fit that to a custom machined interface. That way you have only one connection to worry about.
This regulator was not made for this type of application. The lack of barbs is very dangerous. Just wait until you guys start riding on 90F + days and watch what happens to this plastic and fuel hose.

9. Cal Files: None of the guys in the group buy have complained about holes in their pistons, but several have complained about their throttle bodies blowing off after a backfire.You are Matts Guinea pigs and that is why you got a discount.

While I still say the TB is the biggest flaw, I also have problems with the ECU. The ECU has a direct connection to the battery which means that it can drain the battery when the bike is off. Matt says that it has to be this way, as opposed to just using switched power, because the ECU needs to write log data after shutdown. This causes the CDI systems which I also own, to keep running until they are out of fuel. My point is that he should be writing data on the fly so that the unit can simply be switched off and powered through the igniter connector. But don't get me wrong, this is a minor problem compared to everything else.

.....

[ecotrons]

Originally Posted by Super-Tune

I'll answer within your quote so it is easier to see.


.....

Super-Tune,
Why don't you show your real ID?
What are you afraid of?
Telling part of story is misleading.
What kind of contract do you have with Ecotrons?

[Super-Tune]

Originally Posted by ecotrons

Super-Tune,
Why don't you show your real ID?
What are you afraid of?
Telling part of story is misleading.
What kind of contract do you have with Ecotrons?

Be very careful what you ask for Matt on a public forum.
Please don't change your UPS store PO box anytime soon.

Maybe you would be so kind to tell the forum after spending thousands on your ECU's why you do not answer my e-mails or phone calls. Why you now say I need to pay you for tech support when I haven't had any of them longer than 6 months.

[ecotrons]

Originally Posted by n4mwd

Questions:

The ECU has a direct connection to the battery which means that it can drain the battery when the bike is off. Matt says that it has to be this way, as opposed to just using switched power, because the ECU needs to write log data after shutdown. My point is that he should be writing data on the fly so that the unit can simply be switched off and powered through the igniter connector. But don't get me wrong, this is a minor problem compared to everything else.

n4mwd,
This question I answered before, after 10s key is off. 0 current draw from ECU. A direct wire from ECU to Battery, does not mean it draws power when it's off. There is an internal switch on the ECU board that disconnect the wire from the battery.

[n4mwd]

Originally Posted by Super-Tune

I'll answer within your quote so it is easier to see.

.....

Ditto.


2. TPS: The TPS is of poor quality, not a laser cut carbon bridge as they usually are.
It all depends on how Matt is handling it in the software. TP sensors are basically POTS of the same kind that were used in old stereos. After a few years, turning the volume knob produced a lot of static noise. If Matt is expecting that noise, and compensating for it, then its not a big problem. If not, then it will confuse the ECU and probably make the engine run funny.

3. VR: Yes, Variable reluctance Sensor. At the least, you use twisted pair wiring to avoid EMI from the ignition system. If the VR wiring gets anywhere near the plug wires or coil you will have false triggering resulting in poor power and as bad as back firing which is probably what is popping some of the TB's completely off. In the industry you use twisted pair high conductor count wire and can also shield it with a drain wire. My first engine went from 13HP to 19.5HP just by fixing this issue.

I think he solved this problem by using the Ninja's pre-existing wiring to connect to the crank sensor. I don't know if the factory wiring is shielded or not, but it works.

4. Harness: One look at the battery pos and neg connectors will tell you they are very low quality crimp connectors. Tug on the fuse connection, mine pull right out. That was my first of many failures leaving me walking.

I'll have to take your word for it. If I yank mine apart, it will be even harder to sell. However, I think he may be making them better now than when you got yours. They are still taped as opposed to heat shrink tubing, but the connections do look fairly solid. The only defect I noticed for a fact is that one of the fuel injector connectors was made for a different model of fuel injector. That is, one fit and the other didn't. It wasn't too hard to modify the connector to fit properly.

5. Fuel Pump: Matt said they had issues with the pumps. Mine leaked right out of the terminals. ... You mean your pumps don't have 4 ports in which 1 is capped off with a crimped over piece of rubber hose?

Yes, my pump is just like that. I have no first hand experience with that, but nobody has complained about them leaking yet.

6. Fuel lines: I don't know what kind of tubing this is but it is by far fuel injection line. The early gray stuff petrified after just a week of running fuel through it. This is all nickel and dime parts that you are risking your life and others with.

Basically, the only usable tubing supplied with the kit was some blue low pressure stuff. Its plenty good enough for the low pressure runs. However, for the high pressure stuff, you need to buy some good tubing.

8. Regulator: This regulator was not made for this type of application. The lack of barbs is very dangerous. Just wait until you guys start riding on 90F + days and watch what happens to this plastic and fuel hose.

I thought that the plastic was white nylon. If so, it should be OK in hot weather applications. Matt has talked about adding barbs to the plastic housing, but in reality, I would prefer that he concentrate his resources on the throttle body which is the biggie. If connecting to the regulator with hose and clamps, you can use aircraft safety wire. That should hold everything together.

In my case, the regulator inlet mates beautifully to a custom machined connector using a #109 O-ring. Its pretty much the only part of my fuel rail that actually worked.

[ecotrons]

Originally Posted by Super-Tune

Be very careful what you ask for Matt on a public forum.
Please don't change your UPS store PO box anytime soon.

Maybe you would be so kind to tell the forum after spending thousands on your ECU's why you do not answer my e-mails or phone calls. Why you now say I need to pay you for tech support when I haven't had any of them longer than 6 months.

Show your real ID, so people know why you are here.

[Super-Tune]

My real ID will be available for anyone to see as soon as I file legal action. And I don't think you really want me to talk about the contract you had me sign or how much I paid up front to help you out.

I am here because you will not answer my e-mails and it looks like you won't answer my questions here either in public.

Once again: Maybe you would be so kind to tell the forum why after spending thousands on your ECU's (over $5500.00) why you do not answer my e-mails or phone calls.

Tell the forum how many ECU's you are still obligated to sell me? It was your contract, not mine.

If you really want the forum to see how you treated me and every threatening e-mail you sent, I will cut and paste away.

I am doing what I should have done in the beginning... Developing my own ECU's and software. I should have saw the warning signs and done my research first... Once again, screw me once shame on you, screw me twice, shame on me

[EMSRacer07]

Originally Posted by trixter

How long does this write take? How much power is actually consumed? A large capacitor may fix this providing the power after it is disconnected from the actual battery.

Its practically nothing. I was afraid even if it was a little bit sometimes i only rode my bike down the street, 5 min, and heard it takes about 30 min or so for the system to really charge but put my battery on the tender yesterday and came off fully charged

[Jiggles]

This is confusing. In my research on ecotrons I found another company that was reselling ecotrons kits at double the price, is that you Super Tune?

[Super-Tune]

Are you referring to MBE? Because he pulled all his Ecotrons product off his site today.
There is no reference anywhere on the web in regards to my equipment and Ecotrons so I am assuming Matt sent you a link and you wonder why the forum thinks you two are in this together.

Contact the owner of MBE and ask him why he pulled all the Ecotrons offerings off his site. Same reason why I am going my own direction... Problem after problem after problem and i'm an engineer. Ask Matt how many different ECU's I have been sent to correct hardware issues. Ask him how many times the software has been fixed?

I have very little product left that is for sale but after that you will never see me buy or sell another Ecotrons product.

Sure would be nice to see Matt answer some simple questions rather than have you distract the forum.

[n4mwd]

Originally Posted by EMSRacer07

Its practically nothing. I was afraid even if it was a little bit sometimes i only rode my bike down the street, 5 min, and heard it takes about 30 min or so for the system to really charge but put my battery on the tender yesterday and came off fully charged

I think you guys may be talking about different things. I was referring to power draw after the bike is switched off. Matt says the drain is for 10 seconds so a pair of supercaps and a diode should be sufficient to maintain the power after switchoff.

But I think EMSRacer is referring to system draw when the bike is running. Basically, when the bike is idling with the brake on, the electrical runs negative and drains the battery. It isn't too bad, but a lot of city driving will cause premature permanent battery failure due to the extra cycling. This will be worse if there are accessories such as heated gloves being used.

This is really a problem with the bike simply not having a big enough alternator rather than a problem with the kit. If I try again, I will be installing LED tail lights to compensate for the additional power draw.

[EMSRacer07]

Originally Posted by n4mwd

I think you guys may be talking about different things. I was referring to power draw after the bike is switched off. Matt says the drain is for 10 seconds so a pair of supercaps and a diode should be sufficient to maintain the power after switchoff.

But I think EMSRacer is referring to system draw when the bike is running. Basically, when the bike is idling with the brake on, the electrical runs negative and drains the battery. It isn't too bad, but a lot of city driving will cause premature permanent battery failure due to the extra cycling. This will be worse if there are accessories such as heated gloves being used.

This is really a problem with the bike simply not having a big enough alternator rather than a problem with the kit. If I try again, I will be installing LED tail lights to compensate for the additional power draw.

I was refering to the bike running around town and knowing the ecu stays on for a bit. like matt said. I took the battery off the bike to check it out and was still fully charged like the ecu didnt take anything or nothing at all. Thats what i was refering too meaning no issues at all with a draw of power from the ecu

[Jiggles]

Originally Posted by Super-Tune

Are you referring to MBE? Because he pulled all his Ecotrons product off his site today.
There is no reference anywhere on the web in regards to my equipment and Ecotrons so I am assuming Matt sent you a link and you wonder why the forum thinks you two are in this together.

Contact the owner of MBE and ask him why he pulled all the Ecotrons offerings off his site. Same reason why I am going my own direction... Problem after problem after problem and i'm an engineer. Ask Matt how many different ECU's I have been sent to correct hardware issues. Ask him how many times the software has been fixed?

I have very little product left that is for sale but after that you will never see me buy or sell another Ecotrons product.

Sure would be nice to see Matt answer some simple questions rather than have you distract the forum.

No actually I researched all of this on my own after the forum owner alex alerted me to people having questions about whether or not this was a scam. In my research I found that ecotrons is widely regarded as an asian company not american and that another company was buying ecotrons kits and reselling them at higher prices, both of these facts I posted on the forum. Seeing as you purchased a bunch of kits for who knows what (we don't know your name, nor your company, nor this EFI forum you hail from) I assumed that it was you, or you were doing something similar.

And yes everyone on here thinks I'm in cahoots with Matt in order to screw them out of money, please tell me who these made up supporters are and why they wouldn't contact me directly. It's getting annoying, stop being a douche.

And what do I care how many ECU's you have been sent, no one here is having the problems that you are having so again, I ask, why are you here? It seems you have zero experience with the kits that we have, you've dealt with a host of other problems that we haven't.

Originally Posted by Super-Tune

Sure would be nice to see Matt answer some simple questions rather than have you distract the forum.

You are the one deflecting.

[Super-Tune]

Originally Posted by Jiggles

In my research I found that ecotrons is widely regarded as an asian company not american and that another company was buying ecotrons kits and reselling them at higher prices, both of these facts I posted on the forum.

Where did you post this? Matt is reselling the Chinese Ecotrons kits having them shipped direct out of Hong Kong. He only writes some of their software. It is not his company and he is not the owner.

[Jiggles]

Main GB thread

[Super-Tune]

Can you attach the URL. I don't see it.

[Jiggles]

Originally Posted by Super-Tune

Can you attach the URL. I don't see it.

The thread that we were posting in earlier....

[Super-Tune]

Sorry, I don't see where you posted that and you evidently do not want to show me. I understand.

[Jiggles]

Originally Posted by Super-Tune

Sorry, I don't see where you posted that and you evidently do not want to show me. I understand.

Oh and who is dodging questions now? You didn't bother to answer anything I asked you.

[Super-Tune]

You said you posted your findings on the forum. Am I blind or are you now changing your story?

Originally Posted by Jiggles

both of these facts I posted on the forum.

This is not a forum post, this is a PM and frankly, I can type anything you want to see and put it on here as if it came from PM. Would you like to see an example of that?



I have asked Ecotrons questions as this is a thread YOU started: This thread is for any comments or concerns relating to anything except for the installation of the ecotrons kit. So why won't Matt answer the questions? You are making yourself look more and more suspicious.

[Jiggles]

Originally Posted by Super-Tune

You said you posted your findings on the forum.

This is not a forum post, this is a PM and frankly, I can type anything you want to see and put it on here as if it came from PM. Would you like to see an example of that?



I have asked Ecotrons questions as this is a thread YOU started: This thread is for any comments or concerns relating to anything except for the installation of the ecotrons kit. So why won't Matt answer the questions? You are making yourself look more and more suspicious.

Listen, I'm sick and tired of your hairbrained theories of how the world is out to get you. Take your medication before posting.

Matt is answering questions from his customers about this GB. You are not a customer of this GB, you are not a member of this forum, he has no obligation to answer you. And until you identify yourself, I completely agree with his decision to ignore you.

I went back and checked the thread and turns out I didn't post the information, I only PM'd it to a few people (including the forum mod). My bad, it was 3 months ago, sorry if I sent you on a wild goose chase.

[choneofakind]

@Super-Tune honestly step back and take a look at what you're suggesting. You're suggesting that a forum member, who is completely independent of the business in question, is responsible for the owner of said business not answering your questions. Think about this for a second. Calm down. Jiggles isn't a bad guy. It's not his fault that the business owner isn't answering. Jiggles had nothing to profit from by this product not working. If you would actually use the search bar, which an experienced forum user with over 1000 posts would know about, and type in "EFI group buy", you would find every thread every written on the topic. Your logic is flawed in making this out to be Jiggles' fault. There is nothing suspicious about Jiggles' behavior. Please, take a step back and think about how you're coming off right now. I know you lost money on this, but frankly, no one ever forced you to buy this product. If you have an issue with the business owner, take it up with him. If that doesn't work, take it up with a lawyer. Don't point the finger at every ninjette.org member you can possibly take down. Jiggles had nothing to do with you losing money.

[Super-Tune]

Originally Posted by Jiggles

I went back and checked the thread and turns out I didn't post the information, My bad, it was 3 months ago, sorry if I sent you on a wild goose chase.

I'm hairbrained because I keep catching you in a lie. Then you post a PM and not a forum post to cover your ass.

If it makes you feel better:

I am 52 years old
I am a retired 25 year General Motors Field engineer (EE) from GMI
I have been working with FI for 32 years
I have a business that is registered with the State and Federal Government so that they can collect taxes from my sales and have been for the last 9 years
I have an A+ with the BBB

I looked at using Matt's Software and ECU for a project because he promised me he could do everything I requested.