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Old November 13th, 2016, 06:48 AM   #1
pb3
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broke roller off chain

hello all, thought I would share what I found on my stock non-ABS 2014 w/ 4.5k miles.
I had begun removing the fairings when I found this


here


Come to find this


So i'm replacing the chain and sprockets. Initial thoughts are perhaps a rock got in between a tooth and roller? The rust on the piece indicates it's been like this for at least a year/ 2k miles. The chain IMO felt junky very early on- tight and loose spots all over. Maybe even some red dust.
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Old November 13th, 2016, 07:02 AM   #2
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The chain looks dry in the photo. Rollers are not sealed by the O-rings like the pins are, so lack of lube could have contributed to the failure. But still, it seems the roller probably had a manufacturing defect. Some chains have rollers that are bent around and have an unwelded seam. Motorcycle chains shouldn't be made that way, but some might be. Can you find unwelded seams on the other rollers?

It's hard to believe the sprockets need to be replaced after 4,500 miles, but maybe if they were run dry that whole time they have excessive wear.

What brand of chain is that (the original one)?
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Old November 13th, 2016, 07:12 AM   #3
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What brand of chain is that (the original one)?
yes, OEM/ stock.
i'm reconsidering my oiling routine. bike never see rain/ maybe washed 2-3 times a year. i've read i should be oiling every other tank of fuel?
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Old November 13th, 2016, 07:49 AM   #4
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That may be a good interval. My current favorite is Maxima Chain Wax, because it's less messy than oil, and stays put pretty well, but any decent lube you can keep on the chain, and that doesn't attack the O-rings is fine.
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Old November 13th, 2016, 08:03 AM   #5
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It's a good thing you found the damage when you did. If you had kept riding like that it could have ruined the sprockets.
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Old November 13th, 2016, 09:10 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pb3 View Post
yes, OEM/ stock.
i'm reconsidering my oiling routine. bike never see rain/ maybe washed 2-3 times a year. i've read i should be oiling every other tank of fuel?
The manual says to lube it every 400mi and check the slack every 600mi. Addtionally, "Lubrication is necessary after riding through rain or on wet roads, or any time that the chain appears dry."
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Old November 13th, 2016, 01:50 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pb3 View Post
......... So i'm replacing the chain and sprockets........
Sprockets may not need replacement.

Take a look at this:
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=133019
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Old November 13th, 2016, 09:29 PM   #8
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I agree--replace the chain, not the the sprockets.
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Old August 1st, 2017, 03:04 PM   #9
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hello all, thought I would share what I found on my stock non-ABS 2014 w/ 4.5k miles.
I had begun removing the fairings when I found this
009a.JPG


here
011a_2.JPG

come to find this
001a_3.JPG

So i'm replacing the chain and sprockets. Initial thoughts are perhaps a rock got in between a tooth and roller? The rust on the piece indicates it's been like this for at least a year/ 2k miles. The chain IMO felt junky very early on- tight and loose spots all over. Maybe even some red dust.

Last futzed with by pb3; August 3rd, 2017 at 03:01 AM.
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Old August 4th, 2017, 02:03 PM   #10
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Since you are replacing chain and sprockets, have you considered switching out to a smaller chain, like a 428 or a 415? I have the 415 and really like it, but there again it's track only and doesn't get a lot of dirt and road debris on it.
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Old August 4th, 2017, 02:18 PM   #11
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Rust would seem to mean the chain was not kept lubricated, and that could explain the broken roller.
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Old August 4th, 2017, 03:59 PM   #12
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A 428 chain actually has wider rollers than stock, so should actually be lighter and more durable.
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Old August 4th, 2017, 06:16 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Triple Jim View Post
That may be a good interval. My current favorite is Maxima Chain Wax, because it's less messy than oil, and stays put pretty well, but any decent lube you can keep on the chain, and that doesn't attack the O-rings is fine.
I've always used engine oil. I got 18,000 miles out my O.E.M. chain on my 73' Kaw 500 triple with it. Right now I'm experimenting with CRC spray lithium grease. I spray it into a plastic cup and apply it with a disposable 1/2" brush. It's really watery until the carrier evaporates and the grease sticks like glue. No ca ca on my rear wheel and the lithium grease is water resistant. We'll see.

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Old August 4th, 2017, 07:41 PM   #14
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From advice here, I'm now using DuPont Chainsaver. It's wax based, and has Teflon in it. I have both the spray and liquid. I have it on my motorcycle chains and my bicycle chain. I have a lot of experience with my bicycle chains and how far they go before needing lubrication, so it's a good test. There is noticeably less grit on the bicycle chain surface than when I use grease in solvent. Same on the motorcycle chains, compared to Maxima or PJ-1. I'll keep you posted.
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Old August 4th, 2017, 09:36 PM   #15
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From advice here, I'm now using DuPont Chainsaver. It's wax based, and has Teflon in it. I have both the spray and liquid. I have it on my motorcycle chains and my bicycle chain. I have a lot of experience with my bicycle chains and how far they go before needing lubrication, so it's a good test. There is noticeably less grit on the bicycle chain surface than when I use grease in solvent. Same on the motorcycle chains, compared to Maxima or PJ-1. I'll keep you posted.
I'll be anxious to hear your findings.

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Old August 5th, 2017, 04:02 PM   #16
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I'll be anxious to hear your findings.

Bill
I have to give this stuff this a thumbs up. It doesn't fling off the chain like most lubes, and also dries so it doesn't attract dirt. Been using it for a few years now.
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Old August 5th, 2017, 06:29 PM   #17
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Same here on all counts. The big question I have now is whether it will last 600-800 miles between cleaning and lubing on my bicycle, like grease dissolved in Varsol does. I get something like 15,000 miles out of a chain by removing it, shaking it in a bottle with Varsol to clean it, letting it dry, and soaking it in the grease/Varsol mix again to re-lube it.
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Old January 22nd, 2018, 09:16 AM   #18
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Quote:
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I'll be anxious to hear your findings.
I've been using DuPont Chainsaver for about six months now, both on my bicycle chains, and on my motorcycle chains. Previously, I used lithium based general purpose grease mixed with mineral spirits (AKA Varsol, paint thinner) on my bicycle chains. I applied it after a thorough cleaning in mineral spirits and drying, by putting some in a plastic bottle with the chain, shaking it vigorously for a while, hanging up the chain and letting it dry overnight.

Advantage of Chainsaver: It is less sticky than grease and doesn't get as much road grit in it. It still gets some though.

Disadvantage of Chainsaver: On my bicycle it lasts about 1/3 as long as grease. When I grease a chain, I can ride about 600 miles with no obvious signs of a problem, and I clean and re-grease. If I go over about 900 miles, it sometimes starts to squeak, indicating it's past due for service. When I use Chainsaver, I get squeaking at about 300 miles.

I accurately measure the bicycle chain each time I service it, and replace it when it gets over about 1/16" of increased length in one foot. With grease, that takes at least 15,000 miles, maybe more. I won't know how the Chainsaver does in that regard because I've gone back to grease.

I plan to stay with Chainsaver on my motorcycle chains because they stay cleaner that way, and most of the time I can just apply a new coat without having to solvent clean the chain. Also, it doesn't sling off and cake up under the front sprocket cover like grease or other chain lubes do.
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Old January 10th, 2021, 11:48 PM   #19
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Luckily you found the problem early, because I had experienced broken chains while riding a motorcycle, fortunately there was no vehicle behind me.
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