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Old May 6th, 2014, 04:16 PM   #1
cuong-nutz
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Post Comparing the 250 & 300 motor/engine (Version 2)

Here are some design changes for those interested in knowing. To start, here some numbers of the two to put things in perspective.

Ninja 250
Compression ratio 11.6:1
Bore and stroke 62.0 x 41.2mm
oil capacity 1.7L (1.8 qt)

Ninja 300
Compression Ratio 10.6:1
Bore and Stroke 62.0 x 49.0mm
oil capacity 2.4L (2.5 qt)

Now onto the comparision!

CYLINDER HEAD
The 300 intake port ID is ~30 mm vs ~27.5 mm. From there on after it funnels down. OD is the same so boots will interchange if you wanted to use carbs or fuel injection. All other parts are the same. Exhaust ports sizes are the same between the two: ~27 mm ID. Exhaust headers interchange depending on clearance of oil filter on the 300.

Another interesting thing I found is the intake valve is larger on the 300.

*disclaimer: my digital caliper is not the best*

visual comparison
300 intake valve
250 intake valve
250 exhaust valve
300 exhaust valve



250 and 300 intake boots:


300 boots have a lip and do not have a smooth transition into the intake port like the 250. Remove the lip with an exacto knife may help intake performance.


300 throttle body boot on 250 head. You can notice the smaller ID of intake port.


HEAD GASKET

EDITED: Which head gasket can you use?

ORIGNAL:
Quote:
You can use a 250 gasket on the 300 cylinder head. You will leak coolant near the cam chain area. Here's a 250 gasket on top of the 300 cylinder block.
CYLINDER BLOCK
The 250 cylinder block contains steel cylinder sleeves pressed into an aluminum block whereas the 300 block is lighter and full aluminum cast with nikasil plated cylinders. The 300 cooling jacket is entirely whereas the 250's is enclosed. The back coolant port is square on the 300 and round on the 250. Height of the cylinders and block are the same between the two models. I am not sure why there is a notch connecting the two cylinders on the 300 yet. Cam chain tensioners are the same.


CYLINDER BASE GASKET


You can see where the 300 is larger on the inside of the cam chain area. The 300 block is bigger in this area to accommodate its cooling jacket.


PISTONS
The late model 250 pistons are crowned and the 300 pistons are flat tops. 250 pistons have oiling holes for the pistons pins and the 300 lacks it. Also noted is that the 250 pistons have holes casted under the piston. Perhaps for weight reduction and to reduce windage. Each piston has 8 oil drain back holes in the oil ringland groove.

300:
piston deck to skirt bottom length: 41.8mm
top of pin bore to deck: 13mm
skirt width: 38mm

250:
piston deck to skirt bottom length: 47mm
top of pin bore to deck: 14mm
top of pin to top of dome: 16.5mm
skirt width: 38mm

Left: 250 Right: 300


RODS
250 rods are about 2.8mm longer than the 300 rods. The 250 rod oiling holes are not chamfered like the 300's. The 300 rod piston ends are thicker.


CRANKSHAFT
If you didn't know by now already, the 300 crankshaft is a "stroked" version of 250 and yes, they interchange without any clearance issues. The 300 rod journal is placed 3.9 mm farther from centerline giving it the increased stroke. Aside from that, the only difference you'll see between the two are the weight shapes.

Left: 300 Right: 250. The 300 crank has the flywheel bolt attached still.





COUNTER BALANCER
The purpose of the counter balancer is to reduce engine vibrations. The 300 has heavier weights as seen by the thickness. The oiling holes are 90 degrees off from the 250 but it's nothing significant.


LUBRICATION SYSTEM
a. Oil filter
The late model 250 oiling system is very outdated and not much had changed from the early model 250s. The oil filter is an open element encased in a separate compartment within the lower crankcase. The bolt that holds it place contains a pressure relief valve that opens when the filter media is clogged to keep oil pressure up to maintain bearing life but spews out contaminated oil at the same time. The oil filter media surface area is maybe 1.25+ times larger than on the 300 can filter. Installing a larger oil filter on the 300 increases oil and filtering capacity. A little more work is involved in changing the oil filter on the 250 vs the 300.





Inside the lower bottom of the crankcase on the 250 there are numerous spots for large deposits of crud to pool. The oil in the motor is pre-screened before it is sucked up into the oil filter where it catches the finer particles. The metal pre screen catches all the big debris but not all of it will accumulate there. Granted, if you have big stuff there you have bigger problems to worry about. There is a plastic oil pick-up tube with a metal screen snapped inside.

Advantages of the 300 oil pan:
1. increased oil capacity
2. increased oil cooling efficiency due to the extra surface area of cooling fins
3. baffled oil pan prevents oil from sloshing around
4. no places for unfiltered crud to pool
5. access to the lower crankcase assembly without having to split the case



b. Oil Pump
The oil pump on the 250 is a separate and removable unit. It is bulky and heavy. The 300 oil pump is built into the lower crankcase. The crankshaft drive gear is lighter due to the holes cut into it which reduces rotating mass. The oil pump gears are the exact same between the two.



c. piston oil squirters
The 250 only has what looks like one oil squirter drilled for the right piston and none for the left. The 300 has 2 tapped into one of the main oil galleys similar to the 250 in location but for both pistons. Oil is used for lubrication as well as cooling.

250:
You can see the small hole in the metal shaft towards the middle right.

300:

(the left squirter is slightly damage from motor throwing a rod)

d. oil pressure valve release
250: located on the left side under the crank cam chain gear. 300: located on the underside of the lower crankcase across from the oil pickup filter.



Also note the cast-in lip on for the crankshaft cam chain guide differences. The lip on the 300 is further away and rounder to help keep the cam chain oiled better. I was experiencing came chain slapping against the lip on the 250 which cut a groove in the lip.

CRANKCASE BREATHER
The 250 vents from the lower case via pipe and also looks like up top too from a hole while the 300 just vents from via pipe from the lower case.

Last futzed with by cuong-nutz; June 22nd, 2014 at 09:41 PM.
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Old May 8th, 2014, 04:41 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bruce71198 View Post
OOps missed the rod length difference in the OP. So they ran shorter rods in the 300 but shortened the piston by 5.2mm to clear the counter weights maybe ?
The shorter skirt does help clear the weights but the main concern would the be clearance of the piston below the pin hole. The stock 250 piston with 300 rod and crank pratically sits on the counter weight of the crank at BDC.

300 below pin thickness: 4.5 mm
250 below pin thickness: 6.36 mm
265 below pin thickness: 4.5 mm

This is the 300 piston/rod/crank at BDC:


250 piston/300 rod and crank:


Wiseco 265cc 64mm/300 rod and crank:


250 vs 265 64mm



CRANKCASE HALVES
The location of the oil pressure sensor for your dummy light is located differently as well as the neutral position switch. The 250 oil pressures sensor is located inline with oiling tube at the front of the case. On the 300, it's located on the lower half towards the rear. Sprocket covers will not interchange. There are noticeable changes on the top halves. The 300 has a more opened and clearanced area for the cylinder block base and rotating assembly. Also noticeable are the changes in the crankcase breather design toward the rear of the case.

250 and 300 lower bottom:


250 and 300 upper top:


300 pic 1
250 pic 1
250 pic 2

Left side Lower (300 top, 250 bottom):


Left side upper (300 top, 250 bottom):


right side lower (250 top, 300 bottom):


Right side upper (300 top, 250 bottom):


Opened up area to make room for the new 300 cylinder block design:


CHARGING SYSTEM
300 puts out 21 Amps vs 19 Amps at 5k RPMs.
250 puts out 40+ volts at 4k rpms vs 35+

a. Alternator rotor
Different amounts and sizes of pickups on the circumference of the alternator rotor.
Outer diameter of the rotors are the same.
The 300 rotor is more of a bell shaped with deeper dish.
250 rotor is a different type of material than 300.


b. Stator and crankshaft sensor


2010 250


2013 300


Starter gear:


250 left, 300 right:



TRANSMISSION
a. gearing
1rst and 6th gear are different between the two.

250
1st 2.600 (39/15)
2nd 1.789 (34/19)
3rd 1.409 (31/22)
4th 1.160 (29/25)
5th 1.000 (27/27)
6th 0.893 (25/28)

300
1st 2.714 (38/14)
2nd 1.789 (34/19)
3rd 1.409 (31/22)
4th 1.160 (29/25)
5th 1.000 (27/27)
6th 0.857 (24/28)



b. Shifter drum cam
More adaptation from the bigger bikes can be seen here. The 300 utilizes a gear positioning lever with a spring to give tension on the shifter cam/stop on the drum. This holds the shift drum from falling out of gear. Factory Pro sells shifter springs with higher spring rates for the 250 and 300. On the 250, the shifter cam is located on the opposite end of the shifter drum as compared to the 300. The spring for it is easy to replace as all you need is to remove the bolt on top of the upper crankcase. Replacement of the shifter spring requires more work by having you drain your oil and remove the case cover. Also, the drum is held in place by a plate with screws vs allen head bolts like on the 250. These screws/bolts have threadlock on them. I used an impact wrench and almost stripped the threads on the screws.

300 shifter cam and lever


300 left, 250 right:


The protruding tips are what activates the neutral position switch


250 vs 300 shifter cam


c. Clutch
The 300 utilizes a slipper clutch which makes the shifting more new rider friendly. The clutch slips when downshifting preventing wheel lock up and jerkiness.

*disclaimer* I did not have a 300 slipper clutch to play with since the original owner had to reuse it for his new motor. I am going off pictures on Ebay.

The clutch baskets are the same between both models except that the 300 basket springs uses thicker and less coils. The 250 utilizes needle roller bearings for the basket and the 300 uses a crossdrilled copper bushing. I am not sure what the logic is behind this change.


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Old May 9th, 2014, 04:44 PM   #3
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AWSOME

Such a detailed write up! this is a bit of your personal time i bet!

So as an easy swap for a little bit of top end speed could you put a 250 6th gear into s 300 so it is a tiny bit closer to 1.000 ?

so if this is the first thread that breaks this down to this level?

a 335cc ninja would pack some punch>?

Get your Dremel out and make some more clearance on those pistons…. It should work… for a little while any how
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Old May 10th, 2014, 07:24 AM   #4
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By any chance did you try dropping the 300 crank in the 250 cases and spin it to check for clearance?
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Old May 10th, 2014, 07:45 AM   #5
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Hey - you have any spare 250 working crank assembly?
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Old May 10th, 2014, 09:45 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by abhijitz View Post
Hey - you have any spare 250 working crank assembly?
I will if I can get a 300 crank in mine.
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Old May 10th, 2014, 10:19 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Klondike1020 View Post
AWSOME

Such a detailed write up! this is a bit of your personal time i bet!

So as an easy swap for a little bit of top end speed could you put a 250 6th gear into s 300 so it is a tiny bit closer to 1.000 ?
I'm doing it little by little during my downtime. I haven't gotten down to the transmission gears yet. I'm working on the shift drum mechanism since it's a noticeable change.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bruce71198 View Post
By any chance did you try dropping the 300 crank in the 250 cases and spin it to check for clearance?
Busy weekend but I can probably get it done Monday after work and update the thread.

Quote:
Originally Posted by abhijitz View Post
Hey - you have any spare 250 working crank assembly?
Sorry, I have none that I can part out at the moment.
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Old May 11th, 2014, 07:02 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bruce71198 View Post
By any chance did you try dropping the 300 crank in the 250 cases and spin it to check for clearance?
It fits with no clearance issues.
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Old May 12th, 2014, 09:02 PM   #9
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Small update. Almost complete. Wish I had a 300 slipper clutch in my hand.
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Old May 13th, 2014, 06:03 PM   #10
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Old May 14th, 2014, 05:57 PM   #11
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Updates:
intake ports differences
addeded pictures of shift drum and cams, transmission gears, and crankcase breathers.

I think I covered most, if not all of it. If you can think of anything else, let me know.
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Old May 14th, 2014, 09:52 PM   #12
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Nice write up. If only you had a clutch Cuong.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bruce71198 View Post
I will if I can get a 300 crank in mine.
Clearance of the pistons would be your biggest concern. Also the balance shafts may need to be interchanged, but they should fit in the 250 case together.
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Old May 15th, 2014, 05:44 AM   #13
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Old May 29th, 2014, 09:02 AM   #14
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Hi everyone... it's been quite a long time I haven't been around... things here in Greece are getting tough...
anyway, this is the kind of post I've been looking for in a long time.... congrats to the.... author !! very thorough !!

However a couple of things to mention and ask...
1. the 250 piston is kind of "narrower" by some hundredths of a mm....ahh... sorry of an inch I mean... that's because it "needs" more clearance compared to the one in the 300's aluminum block since heating and working conditions 9and heat dissipation of course are different...


Well, now for the good part... I am about to put a 300 crank and rods to a whole new big bore kit (67mm), this
:http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kawasaki-Nin...a6e68c&vxp=mtr
for an engine of 345cc in 250 cases with the 300 head, 300 throttle bodies and my 250 full racing yoshi exhaust system as well as my "electronic equipment" (250 ECU with 1000 extra rpm, PC V, autotune etc)
so I have a few questions unanswered yet...
1. can I fit a 300 fuel pump along with its base in a 250 tank?
2. 300 fuel injectors are "larger" in fuel output compared to the 250's?
3. can I fit the 300 slipper clutch in the 250 cases ?

If- eventually- for some reason I change my mind and choose to use the 300 cases can I fit my 250 rotor and stator for more energy ? if yes, does the 250 side rotor cover fit the 300 casing? (I am worried about the position of the advance timing sensor being in the same position -the angle related to the rotor etc. Can I fit my 250 gearing altogether in the 300 cases?

So far -as some of you might remember- I have a modest 250cc engine with widened intake ports, camshafts my design base CR of 13,8:1 and yamaha T-max 31mm throttle bodies (apart from the exhaust and electronics mentioned above for a 39,6 hp on a superflow dyno... it's about time I build something close to 50....naturally aspirated...
any help, advice and relative experience is welcome...
thank you all in advance and especially Alex ...ahhh... cuong-nutz for this excellent modifying manual !!


P.S. anyone knows another kawa model with stiffer valve springs than oem's that I can fit to the 250/300 head ?
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Old May 30th, 2014, 03:40 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by micoulisninja View Post
However a couple of things to mention and ask...
1. the 250 piston is kind of "narrower" by some hundredths of a mm....ahh... sorry of an inch I mean... that's because it "needs" more clearance compared to the one in the 300's aluminum block since heating and working conditions 9and heat dissipation of course are different...
I didn't even consider this at all. How much of a significant difference. I'm not sure unless the ring lands were cut deeper.

Quote:
Well, now for the good part... I am about to put a 300 crank and rods to a whole new big bore kit (67mm), this
:http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kawasaki-Nin...a6e68c&vxp=mtr
for an engine of 345cc in 250 cases with the 300 head, 300 throttle bodies and my 250 full racing yoshi exhaust system as well as my "electronic equipment" (250 ECU with 1000 extra rpm, PC V, autotune etc)
so I have a few questions unanswered yet...
1. can I fit a 300 fuel pump along with its base in a 250 tank?
2. 300 fuel injectors are "larger" in fuel output compared to the 250's?
3. can I fit the 300 slipper clutch in the 250 cases ?
1. I imagine you could but I have never seen the FI 250 tanks ever. You would have to find someone pictures locally in Europe/UK.
2. Again I don't know but it does make sense.
3. Slipper clutch will fit in the case but the clearance of the 250 cover with the 300 clutch is what I am not sure of.

Quote:
If- eventually- for some reason I change my mind and choose to use the 300 cases can I fit my 250 rotor and stator for more energy ? if yes, does the 250 side rotor cover fit the 300 casing? (I am worried about the position of the advance timing sensor being in the same position -the angle related to the rotor etc. Can I fit my 250 gearing altogether in the 300 cases?
Rotor and stators will fit but make sure that the timing/crankshaft position pickups are the same between the 250 and 300 FI rotors. We don't have FI 250s here in USA for me to compare. the crank angle sensor are in the same position between both as far as I know.
Gearing: if you are talking about the transmission gears, yes they are the same with the exception of what I posted up above.

Quote:
P.S. anyone knows another kawa model with stiffer valve springs than oem's that I can fit to the 250/300 head ?
Perhaps @Racer x, @mgentz, @tubarney would know.
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Old May 31st, 2014, 01:21 PM   #16
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thank you so much for your helping me...

about the piston clearance thing.... I checked service manuals of both 250 and 300 and it's the cylinder inside diameter that is bigger for the 250. Pistons are same size but...what about the weight difference between the two pistons? (if any of course)

I am a little "slow" on uploading photos and then posting.... I would be grateful if you tried measuring on a 300 fuel pump
1. its height without the floater
2. the overall diameter of its base and
3. the distance between two diametrically opposite holes for bolting it on the tank -center to center- to see if it fits (the 300 is fuel injected in the States too, right?) in my 250 tank.

Anyone measured fuel flow for the 300 injectors yet? As I recall the 250's are from a previous ZX6-R model and considered as being more than adequate (well not for mine, working up to 70% more at some points on my PC V program to stay on the 13,2 AFR) for the 250....

Oh, and I just remembered I came across this yesterday...
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Programmable...saki+Ninja+300

Is that any good or are you guys laughing at me already?
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Old May 31st, 2014, 01:47 PM   #17
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Good insight. I didn't even refer to the manual regarding piston bore sizes.

I wouldn't even bother with that rev limiter thing. Waste of money.
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Old May 31st, 2014, 01:59 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cuong-nutz View Post
Good insight. I didn't even refer to the manual regarding piston bore sizes.

I wouldn't even bother with that rev limiter thing. Waste of money.
So will you check on piston weight differences and fuel pump base size please please please ??



pleeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeazzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz...
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Old May 31st, 2014, 08:25 PM   #19
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Thank You for your detailed break down
All very interesting !
I am especially interested since I have a 2013 250 Special edition
which was released here in Asia for the first half of 2013

It is basically the same as the 300 sans slipper clutch
& all the things that increased the displacement
(crank,rods ) + throttle bodies

I wish you had a try with this one too as I am pretty impressed
over the last year. Not to mention I would love to see a detailed breakdown
like you have done here.
It is not all that far off performance wise from the 300 judging from what I read here on the forum & see here in Asia

I would be interested in bumping the cc via bore rather than stroke
as I think this bore to stroke ratio is good & could be even better with
an even higher rather than lower ratio
which was the result of the 300 going stroke rather than bore increase.

Thanks again for taking the time to photo & post all of this info.

PS: Cuong ...Here is the 2013 parts manual online. Thai but understandable thru pics & part numbers
One can see how much of the 300 is there
http://www.kawasaki.co.th/th/catalog/EX250LDFA.pdf


Also if anyone wants the Ninja 300 Parts catalog again in Thai but pics & part numbers
usable http://www.kawasaki.co.th/th/catalog/EX300BEF.pdf

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Old May 31st, 2014, 08:28 PM   #20
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Impressive display of the pursuit of knowledge. Well done and thanks for sharing.
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Old June 20th, 2014, 03:25 PM   #21
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Question, are the intake ports the same distance apart from each other?
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Old June 22nd, 2014, 09:48 PM   #22
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NEW UPDATE:

300 intake valves are a good 1mm+ larger. I updated the original post under cylinder head. I'll post more on how to distinguish the two heads via numbering and markings later on.


Quote:
Originally Posted by micoulisninja View Post
So will you check on piston weight differences and fuel pump base size please please please ??



pleeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeazzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz...
I'll get it eventually.

Quote:
Originally Posted by garth285 View Post
Question, are the intake ports the same distance apart from each other?
They're the same with the exception of the inner diameter.
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Old June 23rd, 2014, 02:46 AM   #23
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This should open up cheaper options for 250 riders wanting more performance. I had to have my larger valves made. Who knows the aftermarket may even make ti valves one day.
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Old June 23rd, 2014, 07:36 AM   #24
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!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
So. Much. Info.
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Old June 23rd, 2014, 12:30 PM   #25
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Hey man, question for you! I am really hoping you can help me out with this but I contacted ARP about getting some head studs made for the ninja 250 and they had asked for some measurements. I don't have my hands on a motor apart but would you be willing to take measurements to try to get some head stud or bolts made?
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Old June 23rd, 2014, 02:55 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by garth285 View Post
Hey man, question for you! I am really hoping you can help me out with this but I contacted ARP about getting some head studs made for the ninja 250 and they had asked for some measurements. I don't have my hands on a motor apart but would you be willing to take measurements to try to get some head stud or bolts made?
Measured from base of bolt head.
1-116mm
6-146mm

8x1.25 thread
26mm -27 mm of threads

I think the bolts have to bottom out so length of threads and bolts may actually have to be longer. I never used studs before so I am not familiar with the application.
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Old June 23rd, 2014, 06:40 PM   #27
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Help @Racer x

This man needs to know about studs.
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Old June 26th, 2014, 05:40 AM   #28
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So I have been thinking..... I want to convert a 08 250 to fuel injection.... there seems to be some ninja 300 parts hitting ebay, wiring harnesses, stator's, ecu's, cdi's... from what it looks like for just a few hundred dollars you may be able to get all the ninja 300 electrical equipment and swap it over to the 250.

I know that the 250's dont have an internal fuel pump with 45psi but for my purposes I was going to run an inline pump with regulator (turbo setup).

What are your thoughts about swapping over the ninja 300 system?
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Old June 26th, 2014, 07:42 AM   #29
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multiple people have swapped in the European or Asian fuel injection from the 250.
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Old June 26th, 2014, 07:55 AM   #30
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Quote:
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multiple people have swapped in the European or Asian fuel injection from the 250.

Yeah the only thing is that prices for those parts seem to be much more than ninja 300 parts... so thats why I'm looking at the 300 setup. You can buy a set of throttle bodies for $100 bucks and the cheapest ex250 FI TB's were $200 so far. for another about 150-200 you can get wiring harness, ecu, cdi out of a 300.... Another great thing is if you run a 300 ECU you can direct program it with the woolich racing software as well.
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Old June 29th, 2014, 05:55 AM   #31
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Simple question, not sure if it has been answered yet.

Few years back someone accidentally dropped a 500 inside the 250 frame and made it work.
With the 250 and 300 sharing so much, is it possible to a fit a 300 into the 250 frame?
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Old June 29th, 2014, 06:08 AM   #32
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Yes. There is a thread on it.
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Old June 29th, 2014, 08:15 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DmbShn41 View Post
Simple question, not sure if it has been answered yet.

Few years back someone accidentally dropped a 500 inside the 250 frame and made it work.
With the 250 and 300 sharing so much, is it possible to a fit a 300 into the 250 frame?
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=153624
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Old June 29th, 2014, 09:31 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DmbShn41 View Post
Simple question, not sure if it has been answered yet.

Few years back someone accidentally dropped a 500 inside the 250 frame and made it work.
With the 250 and 300 sharing so much, is it possible to a fit a 300 into the 250 frame?
yes i have a 300 sitting in my pregen. Its not that hard only had to modify the front mounts and everything fit. You have to make sure you get everything though or it will be more work.
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Old June 30th, 2014, 01:17 AM   #35
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Thanks all.
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Old June 30th, 2014, 11:09 AM   #36
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Another question regarding the 300/250 flywheel assembly.

Will the 300 flywheel and stator with cover bolt up direct to the ninja 250 cases?
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Old July 1st, 2014, 02:45 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by garth285 View Post
Another question regarding the 300/250 flywheel assembly.

Will the 300 flywheel and stator with cover bolt up direct to the ninja 250 cases?
will know for sure by the end of this month and share all data with you... 99% positive it fits... tiny thoughts about clearance with side cover because the 300 flywheel has different shape than the 250's...a little patience my friends and I will post and upload pistures of every single detail along with info and advice as I will be putting together my little mutant 300 engine with 67mm bore piston kit on my 2009 250r... and as I move through each step I will check what can be inplanted and how on the 250 engine for those who prefer keeping the 250 casings...
cuong-nutz has already provided lots of precious and very informative data to start with...
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Old July 1st, 2014, 04:55 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by garth285 View Post
Another question regarding the 300/250 flywheel assembly.

Will the 300 flywheel and stator with cover bolt up direct to the ninja 250 cases?
I'm pretty sure it does as I think I did swap them to see before. I would check but I already put my lower end of the 250 motor back together.
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Old July 1st, 2014, 05:48 PM   #39
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There is another thread out on this whereby the 300 flywheel has more ignition/timing points. This could bolt up if you are switching to fuel injection from the 300 I think was the moral of that thread.

Search.
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Old July 2nd, 2014, 08:03 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mgentz View Post
There is another thread out on this whereby the 300 flywheel has more ignition/timing points. This could bolt up if you are switching to fuel injection from the 300 I think was the moral of that thread.

Search.

Yeah thats what I am looking at doing, for about $400 you can swap over almost all the 300 wiring parts and TB's minus the fuel pump but that could be easily solved.

I think you may have to run the crank position sensor off the 300 though but not 100% sure as they are both hall effect sensors. They do have different resistance values in the manuals though :-/

My plans are to run the 300 wiring system and tune directly to the ECU with the woolich racing box... high compression, boost and E85

We'll see though!
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