Clutch issues. Won't disengage, searched, tried, help

[mr2peak]

So. I bought the bike with a broken clutch cable. Just replaced it, and it seems like it is way too long. I just put new oils in the bike so I'm hesitant to pull the clutch cover and see it it's actually engaged. The PO messed with the bike a little bit, but I don't think he ever pulled the cover off, seal looks original and the bolts don't look like they have been touched. What's the best corse of action?

The lever has freedom of movement from the 9-11 o'clock position. Is this correct? There's no spring force at all :/

[Alex]

Pictures might help to diagnose. The part of the cable that attaches right down near the clutch cover on the right side of the bike is sometimes wonky when reattaching, and you need to rotate it a certain way to get it in the appropriate position where it catches. I think @alex.s has some instructions on here about how to confirm that.

[mr2peak]

It's definitely in the correct position. I'm just wondering what the "resting state" of the clutch lever is.

[Alex]

When adjusted correctly, the lever should have just a few mm of play.

[alex.s]

points to 8:30 at rest

[DaBlue1]

Did you measure the two cables up against each other to see of the were the same length?

Did you lift up on or remove the clutch shift rod (end with the clevis) and spin it either direction? If so, read this....http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showp...0&postcount=12

There are two place to adjust the clutch. Try loosening it at the lever first then adjust it properly at the clutch (on the engine).
Loosen the adjuster bolts a little, then fine tune the adjustment at the lever.
Pull the clutch lever just enough to take up the free play
Measure the gap between the lever and the lever holder.
If the gap is too wide, the clutch may not release fully.
If the gap is too narrow, the clutch may not engage fully.
In either case, adjust it. Clutch Lever Free Play Standard is: 2 ~ 3 mm

[mr2peak]

Originally Posted by alex.s

points to 8:30 at rest

Ah. This is most likely the problem. I can move it with my finger with no resistance all the way to the 11 o'clock position.

I've tried tightening the cable all the way on both ends, no difference, just hits a wall at 11 o'clock.

Eating lunch right now, I'll throw up some pics after. I don't have a clutch cover gasket so I'm trying to avoid taking the cover off. All I can think is that it's not engaging?

[mr2peak]

Originally Posted by DaBlue1

Did you measure the two cables up against each other to see of the were the same length?

Did you lift up on or remove the clutch shift rod (end with the clevis) and spin it either direction? If so, read this....http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showp...0&postcount=12

There are two place to adjust the clutch. Try loosening it at the lever first then adjust it properly at the clutch (on the engine).
Loosen the adjuster bolts a little, then fine tune the adjustment at the lever.
Pull the clutch lever just enough to take up the free play
Measure the gap between the lever and the lever holder.
If the gap is too wide, the clutch may not release fully.
If the gap is too narrow, the clutch may not engage fully.
In either case, adjust it. Clutch Lever Free Play Standard is: 2 ~ 3 mm

Haven't messed with the shifting at all. Shifted into first, 2nd, etc on the stand no problem, just won't disengage. Took it off the stand and shifted back into neutral. Tried rocking the bike back and forth in gear with a friend to see if the plates are stuck, no changes.

[alex.s]

it sounds like the little metal dowel that pulls on the throw bearing to disengage the clutch is broken in half or missing

[mr2peak]

Damn. Well I'm about to pull it apart, let's find out.

[alex.s]

order a new gasket. they always break.

[mr2peak]

So the clutch springs were stuck. 2 of them were fully compressed and require some fiddling to remove.... And then boiiiing! Still searching for one of the alloy washers.

So it's looking good so far. Thanks for the prompt responses, super helpful forum.

I ordered a new gasket earlier this week but it hasn't shown up yet. The old one is fine, so I'll test ride it then re-do it along with a few other things next week.


Classic car races at Infineon this weekend, no time to work in the bike :/

[alex.s]

i bet a "fonz" kick would have set her straight. lol

[mr2peak]

Haha.

This gets even better. F***ing PO.

The springs were way beyond their service life, so instead of ordering new ones the PO put an extra washer between the spring and the normal washer/bolt. These washers got stuck on the end of the spring posts (not sure what to call them?) and held the clutch tight.

Solution? New EBC springs from the local shop. $10 to do it right.

PO needs a nads kick.

[mr2peak]

Got it back together, then dissasembed the carbs. Got her running and I was about to ride when....

The clutch slipped. Like, I can't even go forwards. Everything seems to be in great shape on the inside, so I'm kinda lost at this point. The springs are fully tightened down so I'm not sure what the problem is.

[mr2peak]

What is the wear limit for the clutch plates?

[Alex]

Evidently just past where yours are.



(Sorry, couldn't resist. I hope you get it sorted. )

[mr2peak]

Ha

I wish my service manual was here already :/

Anybody have a service limit for the plates?

[alex.s]

according to google

standard 2.9-3.1mm
service limit is 2.8

but i would be concerned about the previous problem. the springs and hub getting stuck. you might want to disassemble and look for damage just because taking things apart is fun.

[mr2peak]

Already did, thanks again

I have a few replacement clutch baskets in the mail headed my way. Planning on rebuilding one for myself and fixing up the other two. So it's all coming apart again anyway. Clutch is pretty loud right now.

[baxtc1]

You have lined up the marks, haven't you?

[Joshua763]

helpful adjustment tips or facts.