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Old September 20th, 2017, 07:15 AM   #1
cameronjones239
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The Ultimate Lightweight Parts Thread

I'll be updating this list fairly often as I get more and more parts cycling through. This post for now is to get the ball rolling, I have pictures of each part I weighed as well that'll get updated in time.
For those that need a conversion -
http://www.metric-conversions.org/

Weight Increase -
GoPro Hero 5 Session (with mounts) -
GoPro Hero 5 (with mounts) -
XT Pro Lap Timer -
Power Commander -

Suspension
Stock Shock -
JRI Shock without res - 3lbs 5.6oz
Ohlins Shock w res 4lbs 10.9oz
Penske Shock w res - 5lbs - https://www.ninjette.org/forums/show...34&postcount=4

Frame/Fairings/Misc Brackets
Speedometer Cluster and plastic surround - 1lbs 8.4oz
Front Stay - 3lbs 15.35oz
Front left bracket under frame (pic to come) - 5.7oz
Stock Left Rearset -
Stock Right Rearset -
Vortex Rearsets (pair) - 2lbs 6.25oz

Engine/Accessories
Emissions - 1lbs 3.1oz (straps 1.75oz)
Emissions Bracket - 5.1oz
Spears Gas Cap - 1lbs .3oz
Exhaust slip on (minor scuffs from crash) - 8lbs 8.55oz
Header pipe - 4lbs 6.3oz
YTX9-BS OEM Battery
WPS Lightweight Battery - 1lbs 14.8oz

Wheels/Tires/Brakes/Sprockets
Stock Front Wheel - 9lbs 13.8oz
Stock Rear Wheel -
Stock Sprocket Carrier/Cush Drive -
Marchesini Front wheel - 6lbs 8.45oz
Marchesini Rear Wheel - 8lbs 2.6oz
Marchesini Rear Wheel Sprocket Carrier - 1lbs 14.1oz
GaleSpeed Type-GP1S Rim Front 300-17 (28870071) = 3.143kg
GaleSpeed Type-GP1S Rim Rear 400-17 (28870171) = 5.086kg with 40T steel sprocket
Front "BRAKING" Rotor - 2lbs 6oz
Front Stock Rotor - 2lbs 13.9oz
Front Galfer Rotor - 2lbs 3.05oz
Rear Galfer Rotor - 1lbs 11.5oz
Rear Stock Rotor - 1lbs 15.6oz
Rear Spears Lightweight Rotor - 12.3oz
140 Pirelli SC2 - 11lbs .95oz
110 Pirelli SC1 - 8lbs 4.6oz
Spears 415 18t front - 4.1oz
Spears 415 55t rear - 9.1oz
Spears 415 54t rear - 9.15oz
Spears 415 53t rear - 8.6oz
Spears 415 52t rear - 8.2oz
Spears 415 51t rear -
Driven Front 15t
Stock front 14t
Vortex Rear 43t
Vortex Rear 44t
Vortex Rear 45t

I have quite a bit more to add but out of time for this morning. If you have anything to add please send me a message of the weight of the part with a picture if possible. It will help keep some of the clutter out of the thread.
Thanks!

Last futzed with by cameronjones239; October 28th, 2017 at 06:08 AM.
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Old September 20th, 2017, 09:45 AM   #2
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Chipotle Steak Burrito: 14.7 oz



Starbucks Grande coffee: 16.0 oz



Note: Weights vary by elapsed time since consumption and subsequent use of sanitary facilities.
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Old September 20th, 2017, 09:58 AM   #3
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Old September 20th, 2017, 10:03 AM   #4
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my remote res Penske with titanium spring is 5# even. Add 1.5# for a Hyperco steel spring

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Old September 20th, 2017, 11:10 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adouglas View Post
Chipotle Steak Burrito: 14.7 oz



Starbucks Grande coffee: 16.0 oz



Note: Weights vary by elapsed time since consumption and subsequent use of sanitary facilities.
fl. oz*
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Old September 20th, 2017, 03:13 PM   #6
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Chipotle Steak Burrito: 14.7 oz
Starbucks Grande coffee: 16.0 oz
Amount of weight added to motorcycle+rider for Chipotle Steak Burrito: 14.6 oz
Amount of weight added to motorcycle+rider for Starbucks Grande coffee (black): 0.001 oz

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Old September 21st, 2017, 07:33 AM   #7
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cameronjones239,

What is the weight of your bike?

Mine was 285 lb last time I weighed it. Since then I've installed a dry break and removed some other stuff so I think it's about the same now. Maybe a little more because I had to get a heavy a$$ 520 oring chain from a local dealership in a pinch right before a race weekend,
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Old September 21st, 2017, 10:51 AM   #8
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Quote:
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cameronjones239,

What is the weight of your bike?

Mine was 285 lb last time I weighed it. Since then I've installed a dry break and removed some other stuff so I think it's about the same now. Maybe a little more because I had to get a heavy a$$ 520 oring chain from a local dealership in a pinch right before a race weekend,

285 is killer for a 300! I've heard a rumor of a guy with a 278lbs bike but no idea who and closest to that was I think 295.

I currently have 2 Ninja 300's, one is a superbike build with some spears goodies. The other is going to be a supersport build to hop in with CCS for next year. Currently torn down almost to the frame as I prepare it to get the works. Hopefully in the realm of where yours is once said and done.

I hadn't messed with weight reduction all year on my superbike build, last week I finally removed a lot of misc plastics and brackets. When I weighed it in the spring she was a fat pig at 331lbs with roughly 1/3-1/2 tank of gas. Can't remember if my lap timer/gopros were on or not. I plan to weigh it before my race this weekend at Hastings with track addix so I'll have an updated figure soon. I should note the lightweight wheels were a customers that he let me get the weight off of. Hopefully I can pick up a set soon though
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Old September 21st, 2017, 11:44 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cameronjones239 View Post
285 is killer for a 300! I've heard a rumor of a guy with a 278lbs bike but no idea who and closest to that was I think 295.

I currently have 2 Ninja 300's, one is a superbike build with some spears goodies. The other is going to be a supersport build to hop in with CCS for next year. Currently torn down almost to the frame as I prepare it to get the works. Hopefully in the realm of where yours is once said and done.

I hadn't messed with weight reduction all year on my superbike build, last week I finally removed a lot of misc plastics and brackets. When I weighed it in the spring she was a fat pig at 331lbs with roughly 1/3-1/2 tank of gas. Can't remember if my lap timer/gopros were on or not. I plan to weigh it before my race this weekend at Hastings with track addix so I'll have an updated figure soon. I should note the lightweight wheels were a customers that he let me get the weight off of. Hopefully I can pick up a set soon though
just watch out for jimmy and pockadot bill
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Old September 21st, 2017, 03:00 PM   #10
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Quote:
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just watch out for jimmy and pockadot bill
Ha will do, I'm looking forward to it. I finally got to race with Drew J at heartland park a few weeks back. Had an awesome battle for about 5 laps and it was quite a dead lock. I tried to force a pass inside a lapper to separate us, couldn't make it work, checked up, rear ended by 2nd place and lappers rear wheel won the fight vs my front. Nowhere to go and basically highsided off the bike.
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Old September 21st, 2017, 05:12 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cameronjones239 View Post
285 is killer for a 300! I've heard a rumor of a guy with a 278lbs bike but no idea who and closest to that was I think 295.

I currently have 2 Ninja 300's, one is a superbike build with some spears goodies. The other is going to be a supersport build to hop in with CCS for next year. Currently torn down almost to the frame as I prepare it to get the works. Hopefully in the realm of where yours is once said and done.

I hadn't messed with weight reduction all year on my superbike build, last week I finally removed a lot of misc plastics and brackets. When I weighed it in the spring she was a fat pig at 331lbs with roughly 1/3-1/2 tank of gas. Can't remember if my lap timer/gopros were on or not. I plan to weigh it before my race this weekend at Hastings with track addix so I'll have an updated figure soon. I should note the lightweight wheels were a customers that he let me get the weight off of. Hopefully I can pick up a set soon though
Mine is a 250. I just saw where yours is a 300. Most of the weight I've saved was from cutting off pretty much every tab that wasn't holding something and cutting off the passenger section of the subframe. A lithium iron battery of course. The fairing stay very light and made from composite hockey stick shafts and sheet aluminum. It has held up through 9 3hr endurance races and two crashes, so not too bad. If I replaced the fairing I'd save three or four pounds worth of bad repairs from the previous owner. Still a lot I can do. I'd like some nice aftermarket wheels as well.
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Old September 21st, 2017, 08:32 PM   #12
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Mine is a 250. I just saw where yours is a 300. Most of the weight I've saved was from cutting off pretty much every tab that wasn't holding something and cutting off the passenger section of the subframe.
Heh heh... yeah, those lumps under top triple-clamp and tab in head-tube for ignition lock is worth about 1-lb! Can't imagine what rest of them adds up to.
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Old September 22nd, 2017, 06:02 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cameronjones239 View Post
Ha will do, I'm looking forward to it. I finally got to race with Drew J at heartland park a few weeks back. Had an awesome battle for about 5 laps and it was quite a dead lock. I tried to force a pass inside a lapper to separate us, couldn't make it work, checked up, rear ended by 2nd place and lappers rear wheel won the fight vs my front. Nowhere to go and basically highsided off the bike.
seen that on instagram, looked like it was a hard slam on the ground.
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Old September 22nd, 2017, 06:48 AM   #14
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Amount of weight added to motorcycle+rider for Chipotle Steak Burrito: 14.6 oz
Amount of weight added to motorcycle+rider for Starbucks Grande coffee (black): 0.001 oz

Thats a combo of weight reduction of about 2 pounds, just give it time.
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Old September 22nd, 2017, 08:39 AM   #15
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There's a pretty good chance I'll be running Moto3 sized slicks next year. I just scored five brand new sets for free. The catch is that they are 5 years old. Shouldn't be a big deal since they were stored properly.
Should be another weight savings. I'll have to weigh them when I get them. That might precipitate a switch to RS125 or TZ125 wheels.
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Old September 22nd, 2017, 08:46 AM   #16
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If I were doing sprints only, I'd be installing a two gallon plastic tank in place of the steel tank. I did this on another project racebike by using an atv tank I bought off ebay.
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Old October 11th, 2017, 11:41 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cameronjones239 View Post
285 is killer for a 300! I've heard a rumor of a guy with a 278lbs bike but no idea who and closest to that was I think 295.

I currently have 2 Ninja 300's, one is a superbike build with some spears goodies. The other is going to be a supersport build to hop in with CCS for next year. Currently torn down almost to the frame as I prepare it to get the works. Hopefully in the realm of where yours is once said and done.

I hadn't messed with weight reduction all year on my superbike build, last week I finally removed a lot of misc plastics and brackets. When I weighed it in the spring she was a fat pig at 331lbs with roughly 1/3-1/2 tank of gas. Can't remember if my lap timer/gopros were on or not. I plan to weigh it before my race this weekend at Hastings with track addix so I'll have an updated figure soon. I should note the lightweight wheels were a customers that he let me get the weight off of. Hopefully I can pick up a set soon though
Just weighed mine again yesterday. Weight without gas is 288.5 lb.

The things that added weight this year:

Went to a 4" wheel from a Ninja 300 to accomodate the width of the A-13 rear. About a three pound weight gain when combined with the bigger tire.

Installed a dry break valve on the gas tank. Maybe a half pound gain because I removed the filler neck from the tank to install the valve.

Put a heavy-assed 520 o-ring chain from the local dealership cause I was in a pinch right before the first race weekend. Probably gained two pounds from that.

278 lbs is very doable. As I mentioned, replacing the fairing would save 3 or 4 pounds, going to a nice light 520 non o-ring chain would save a couple more, and nice light wheels (maybe from an RS or TZ 125) would easily take care of the several more pounds.

All this weight savings makes a big difference. Considering that a stock 250 Ninja is around 345lb without gas, the 56 or so pound weight savings on my bike is fairly significant. Leaving alone the difference in acceleration on a 30hp bike, strap an extra 60 lbs on any bike that's not a Harley and most people would notice a big difference in handling.

The best evidence is the several people say that we've been going pretty fast on that 300 Ninja. Then I tell them it's a 250.
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Old October 12th, 2017, 09:22 AM   #18
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Wikipedia showing the ninja 300 weighing in at 362 dry and 385 wet, not sure how accurate that is but it sounds close. I'll have the weight for both of mine tomorrow. We're finishing them up today. We found a pound cutting off the kickstand from the frame, another almost pound off the steering lock. Another 8oz cutting off just the lower half of the front stay, still need to cut the tabs off of it though.

If I remember right a 415 chain and sprocket kit weighs less than just the 520 factory chain alone. I'll have weight of a 415 134link today and get some other parts of the list updated.
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Old October 12th, 2017, 09:45 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cameronjones239 View Post
Wikipedia showing the ninja 300 weighing in at 362 dry and 385 wet, not sure how accurate that is but it sounds close. I'll have the weight for both of mine tomorrow. We're finishing them up today. We found a pound cutting off the kickstand from the frame, another almost pound off the steering lock. Another 8oz cutting off just the lower half of the front stay, still need to cut the tabs off of it though.

If I remember right a 415 chain and sprocket kit weighs less than just the 520 factory chain alone. I'll have weight of a 415 134link today and get some other parts of the list updated.
I'm a little wary of putting a 415 chain on an endurance bike. I'd be spending more money on chains than tires during the season!

I cut off the part of the subframe that would support a passenger. Saved about 4 pounds there. Also the exhaust/passenger footpeg bracket. I removed most of the middle and just left enough meat around the threaded holes for bolting the exhaust bracket to it.

The sprocket carrier is way, way overbuilt. I'll have to figure out some way to make it lighter if I don't go aftermarket with the wheels.
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Old October 18th, 2017, 02:33 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cameronjones239 View Post
Wikipedia showing the ninja 300 weighing in at 362 dry and 385 wet, not sure how accurate that is but it sounds close. I'll have the weight for both of mine tomorrow. We're finishing them up today. We found a pound cutting off the kickstand from the frame, another almost pound off the steering lock. Another 8oz cutting off just the lower half of the front stay, still need to cut the tabs off of it though.

If I remember right a 415 chain and sprocket kit weighs less than just the 520 factory chain alone. I'll have weight of a 415 134link today and get some other parts of the list updated.
I was running an aluminium rear sprocket on my CBR300 which weighed exactly 1/3rd of the weight of steel OEM one. I also swapped out my sprocket bolts for aluminium ones and aluminium nuts with a steel helical insert for the thread. Set to about 30Nm with a drop of loctite on each thread. Never came loose.
Good to reduce your reciprocating mass and unsprung weight as much as possible.
I think the Bridgestone evo S21's are one of the lightest tyres too.
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Old October 18th, 2017, 04:55 AM   #21
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I was running an aluminium rear sprocket on my CBR300 which weighed exactly 1/3rd of the weight of steel OEM one. I also swapped out my sprocket bolts for aluminium ones and aluminium nuts with a steel helical insert for the thread. Set to about 30Nm with a drop of loctite on each thread. Never came loose.
Good to reduce your reciprocating mass and unsprung weight as much as possible.
I think the Bridgestone evo S21's are one of the lightest tyres too.
Aluminum fatigues and stretches more easily than steel, so it requires more attention as far as the correct torque goes. I think with five six bolts you're probably safe though. If there are only four bolts on the CBR carrier then I'd probably not risk it myself. I've been looking at the cushions drive/sprocket carrier assembly and I think it is way overbuilt so I'm looking at taking some weight out of it. I'm probably going to reduce the number of bolts holding the sprocket from six to three but I'll keep them steel or titanium, reduce the weight of the casting and machine the bearing sleeve from aluminum instead of steel.

I'll also be machining a significant amount of weight out of the rear brake rotor. About the only time I use the rear brake is when I run off in the grass.
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Old October 18th, 2017, 09:08 AM   #22
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Aluminum fatigues and stretches more easily than steel, so it requires more attention as far as the correct torque goes. I think with five six bolts you're probably safe though. If there are only four bolts on the CBR carrier then I'd probably not risk it myself. I've been looking at the cushions drive/sprocket carrier assembly and I think it is way overbuilt so I'm looking at taking some weight out of it. I'm probably going to reduce the number of bolts holding the sprocket from six to three but I'll keep them steel or titanium, reduce the weight of the casting and machine the bearing sleeve from aluminum instead of steel.

I'll also be machining a significant amount of weight out of the rear brake rotor. About the only time I use the rear brake is when I run off in the grass.
CBR250/300 is five bolt. Had it on the bike for 15,600miles hard riding and the odd track day. Never came loose or required re-torquing. The proof is in the testing.
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Old October 18th, 2017, 10:12 AM   #23
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Design is a big factor here as well. You don't want to match 1:1 the shape of steel sprocket in aluminium as 1/3rd weight may not be enough. You'll want to have more material, even mostly solid aluminium sprocket for only 1/2 weight savings. That should be sufficient strength. In end, it's the teeth that will wear out faster and require more frequent inspection and replacement.

On my street bike, I use a lightweight steel 520 sprocket that's actually close to aluminium in weight-savings. I get about 1.5-years out of my 428 alloy rear-sprocket on my race bike with flipping it. I do like the 428 conversion though as the chain lasts longer than factory 520. And I can fine-tune final-drive ratios in smaller increments using 18/57t, 18/58t or 18/59t depending upon the track.

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Old October 18th, 2017, 11:04 AM   #24
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You can add these to your rim weights:

GaleSpeed Type-GP1S Rims:
Front 300-17 (28870071) = 3.143kg
Rear 400-17 (28870171) = 5.086kg with 40T steel sprocket
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Old October 18th, 2017, 11:51 AM   #25
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Design is a big factor here as well. You don't want to match 1:1 the shape of steel sprocket in aluminium as 1/3rd weight may not be enough. You'll want to have more material, even mostly solid aluminium sprocket for only 1/2 weight savings. That should be sufficient strength. In end, it's the teeth that will wear out faster and require more frequent inspection and replacement.

I get about 1.5-years out of my 428 alloy rear-sprocket on my race bike with flipping it. On my street bike, I use a lightweight steel 520 sprocket that's actually close to aluminium in weight-savings.
Every aluminum or steel sprocket is the same thickness where the teeth are, and most aluminum sprockets are simply a plate of the uniform thickness with the good ones having a bunch of holes punched or machined in them in them to make them even lighter. You can safely design a sprocket that is a third as light as steel or less. You just have to understand the type of load being applied. (Shear) Look at how light brake the aluminum carriers are on floating brake rotors are and that will give you an idea of the possibilities.
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Old October 18th, 2017, 01:20 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by tgold View Post
Every aluminum or steel sprocket is the same thickness where the teeth are.
Sure, if they're both 520 sprockets. The 428 sprocket is thicker than stock 520 to match wider chain rollers.

I'm using this RS8R steel sprocket on my street-bike:


It's about 1/2 the weight of the factory steel sprocket:


Similar in weight to a more solid alloy sprocket:
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Old October 18th, 2017, 02:51 PM   #27
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I think Renthal hard anodizes their aluminum sprockets for better wear. I've seen Vortex aluminum sprockets sheer teeth from too much power (and probably too much wear at the same time), but for smaller bikes I don't think you'd have any issues.

Steel would definitely wear longer. That steel RS8R sprocket is really opened up. It would be interesting to compare the weight to something like a Vortex aluminum one.
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Old October 19th, 2017, 05:13 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JacRyann View Post
Sure, if they're both 520 sprockets. The 428 sprocket is thicker than stock 520 to match wider chain rollers.

I'm using this RS8R steel sprocket on my street-bike:


It's about 1/2 the weight of the factory steel sprocket:


Similar in weight to a more solid alloy sprocket:
Of course I'm referring to sprockets for the same sized chain.
Clearly the steel sprocket that you show has been more optimized for weight reduction than either the stock sprocket or the aluminum one, so the weights aren't reflective of what is possible with a good design in aluminum.

One thing that you cant get away from with a steel sprocket: The mass concentrated at the perimeter where the teeth are is going to be higher than than for aluminum. That means the moment of inertia (MOI) is going to be higher and a high moment of inertia affects acceleration. Think of swinging a baseball on the end of a rope in a circle. The longer the rope, the higher the MOI and the harder it is to swing the baseball around.

Still the steel sprocket that you show looks like a fairly good design and certainly you should get more life out of it than an aluminum one, but it's a compromise that is your choice to make It's going to cost more for the well-designed part and have a higher MOI. I often find the aluminum sprockets I want for less than $30.00 on ebay which is likely less than half the cost of the steel one. I'm willing to sacrifice the time it takes to swap out the to a new aluminum sprocket when it wears out faster. (not that often on a 250 Ninja)

IMO hard anodizing doesn't do much, it is very thin and it's effectiveness is also dependent on the strength of the base metal it is applied to. And all aluminum is not created equal. If you really want a good aluminum sprocket, then get one made out of 7075 aluminum instead of the more typical 6061 stuff. 7075 is significantly stronger, allowing further possible weight reduction with careful design.

We're not likely to shear teeth with 250 and 300 Ninjas, but on one of my other bikes I have seen what seems to be quicker wear on Vortex sprockets than other brands.
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Old October 19th, 2017, 01:15 PM   #29
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I'm an aluminium fan as long as the application is right. In my case we were talking 30.4 HP on a standard CBR300 for hard sports riding duties and the odd track day in a novice class.
So even I was surprised how much mileage I got out of it.

Also, there are different grades of aluminium and like a lot of things in life, it seems to be a case of you get what you pay for.
I forked out $50 for mine from PMP sprockets in Texas. They offer a hard coat option as well for another $14. Probably a good option for racers but i didnt go with it and still got 25,000km out of a standard one. Very happy with both the product and the service.
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Old October 19th, 2017, 01:27 PM   #30
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While 7000-series may have twice strength and fatigue-resistance as more common 6061-T6, so you can make it lighter in the stronger alloy. However wear-resistance is same for both. Same rockwell, same density, same modulus, etc. Even hard-anodizing isn't enough to extend wear much, you'd need something like a DLC or ion-impregnated surface.

I think ultimate sprocket for weight-savings AND strength/durability would be an aluminium centre carrier with steel outer-ring for teeth. Kinda like floating disc-brakes with separate centre.
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Old October 19th, 2017, 02:14 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JacRyann View Post
While 7000-series may have twice strength and fatigue-resistance as more common 6061-T6, so you can make it lighter in the stronger alloy. However wear-resistance is same for both. Same rockwell, same density, same modulus, etc. Even hard-anodizing isn't enough to extend wear much, you'd need something like a DLC or ion-impregnated surface.

I think ultimate sprocket for weight-savings AND strength/durability would be an aluminium centre carrier with steel outer-ring for teeth. Kinda like floating disc-brakes with separate centre.
It's not just wear resistance it's that with 7075 the sprocket teeth will distort less under load and you'll get longer life.

DLC is pretty cool. I've used it in some applications for work. The problem with aluminum as a substrate is that it moves too much underneath the DLC which would cause it to flake off fairly quickly. DLC on steel would last longer.

They already have what you're talking about so you may want to check these guys out: https://www.supersproxusa.com/

I ran an entire season of endurance racing with one aluminum sprocket and it's still good. I can deal with that for the 25 or 30 bucks it cost me.

I don't get cheap quality sprockets. I'm just willing to take the time to cross-reference them to find the deals on ebay.
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Old October 19th, 2017, 03:24 PM   #32
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Looks like JT486 alloy sprocket fits. Supposedly same as EX500 and used for 520-conversions of GSXR-600/1000 and R1/R6 bikes.

Any experience with this? Not bad pricing either.
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Old October 19th, 2017, 07:22 PM   #33
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Old October 19th, 2017, 07:43 PM   #34
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Ahahaha.... a good BM and pee is worth 4-lbs !!!
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Old October 19th, 2017, 07:51 PM   #35
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Ahahaha.... a good BM and pee is worth 4-lbs !!!
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