Tachometer issue? Plz HALP!

corksil · December 15th, 2013, 02:49 PM

Hey I have an '09 250r. The tachometer reads incorrectly -- 3k at idle, revving up to ~6k as the bike accelerates (doesn't sound 'accurate', but the needle moves.)

Above a certain RPM [around 8k?] the needle just drops to zero and doesn't move until I upshift and the RPM drops back below ~8k.

I've researched this at length. My options include...

-replace CDI box under rear seat with this one
-replace cluster with this one

Sounds like a crap-shoot either way. Hopefully the 'used' replacement part will not be faulty, and 50/50 chance of the cluster/CDI being the culprit.

What do you guys recommend?

Take this into consideration. At one point during this bike's life, it was reportedly left in the rain with the gas cap open. Which do you think would be more likely damaged by leaving the bike in the rain? CDI or cluster/tach?

Please help, I need to get this fixed.

quarterliter · December 15th, 2013, 08:30 PM

I had some weird tach stuff going on when my battery was about to crap out. Might be related? Does it start and crank strong?

JohnnyBravo · December 15th, 2013, 08:34 PM

You know how to run a multimeter?

corksil · December 15th, 2013, 10:25 PM

This is my second thread on the topic, the first from which I gleaned the previously posted information.

I most certainly know how to run a multimeter, and I've got a nice fluke unit with all the bells and whistles. I've probably already done any testing that you guys might recommend, but shoot. I need to nail down the problem before I throw 140 or 40 dollars at a replacement [used] tach/CDI.

Bike starts and cranks strong. Lights are bright [they dim a titch when I go from WOT to clutch-in-coast, but they brighten back up after a second.]

All grounds are clean, all electrical connections are shiny and coated in fresh dielectric grease, battery and terminals are tight and clean, coated with protectant. Battery charges fine and reads proper charging voltage with bike running. No real issues otherwise. Nothing that sounds electrically related in any way.

Any advice?

DaBlue1 · December 20th, 2013, 05:32 PM

If all other battery troubleshooting checks out. You may want to start by replacing the tach. Some have been known to have issues, so have some IC ignitors (CDI).

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showp...3&postcount=21

Brian · December 21st, 2013, 08:49 PM

I might be wrong but was your bike at proper operating temperature before you took the measurements?

JohnnyBravo · December 21st, 2013, 09:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by corksil

This is my second thread on the topic, the first from which I gleaned the previously posted information.

I most certainly know how to run a multimeter, and I've got a nice fluke unit with all the bells and whistles. I've probably already done any testing that you guys might recommend, but shoot. I need to nail down the problem before I throw 140 or 40 dollars at a replacement [used] tach/CDI.

Bike starts and cranks strong. Lights are bright [they dim a titch when I go from WOT to clutch-in-coast, but they brighten back up after a second.]

All grounds are clean, all electrical connections are shiny and coated in fresh dielectric grease, battery and terminals are tight and clean, coated with protectant. Battery charges fine and reads proper charging voltage with bike running. No real issues otherwise. Nothing that sounds electrically related in any way.

Any advice?

Well since we have the same multimeter, and you've already checked everything I could suggest, I can only wish I could help you, and hope it works out for you

December 15th, 2013, 02:49 PM	#1
corksil ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: TC Location: Hawaii Join Date: Sep 2013 Motorcycle(s): A lot. Posts: A lot.	Tachometer issue? Plz HALP! Hey I have an '09 250r. The tachometer reads incorrectly -- 3k at idle, revving up to ~6k as the bike accelerates (doesn't sound 'accurate', but the needle moves.) Above a certain RPM [around 8k?] the needle just drops to zero and doesn't move until I upshift and the RPM drops back below ~8k. I've researched this at length. My options include... -replace CDI box under rear seat with this one -replace cluster with this one Sounds like a crap-shoot either way. Hopefully the 'used' replacement part will not be faulty, and 50/50 chance of the cluster/CDI being the culprit. What do you guys recommend? Take this into consideration. At one point during this bike's life, it was reportedly left in the rain with the gas cap open. Which do you think would be more likely damaged by leaving the bike in the rain? CDI or cluster/tach? Please help, I need to get this fixed.

December 15th, 2013, 08:34 PM	#3
JohnnyBravo Certifiable nontundrum Name: Harper Location: NC Milkshake stand Join Date: Mar 2013 Motorcycle(s): 2013 SE NINJA 300 Posts: Too much. MOTM - Sep '13, Sep '16	You know how to run a multimeter? __________________________________________________

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December 15th, 2013, 08:30 PM	#2
quarterliter ninjette.org guru Name: Kevin Location: Madison Join Date: Apr 2013 Motorcycle(s): 2004 Ninja 250 Posts: 465	I had some weird tach stuff going on when my battery was about to crap out. Might be related? Does it start and crank strong?

December 15th, 2013, 10:25 PM	#4
corksil ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: TC Location: Hawaii Join Date: Sep 2013 Motorcycle(s): A lot. Posts: A lot.	This is my second thread on the topic, the first from which I gleaned the previously posted information. I most certainly know how to run a multimeter, and I've got a nice fluke unit with all the bells and whistles. I've probably already done any testing that you guys might recommend, but shoot. I need to nail down the problem before I throw 140 or 40 dollars at a replacement [used] tach/CDI. Bike starts and cranks strong. Lights are bright [they dim a titch when I go from WOT to clutch-in-coast, but they brighten back up after a second.] All grounds are clean, all electrical connections are shiny and coated in fresh dielectric grease, battery and terminals are tight and clean, coated with protectant. Battery charges fine and reads proper charging voltage with bike running. No real issues otherwise. Nothing that sounds electrically related in any way. Any advice?

December 20th, 2013, 05:32 PM	#5
DaBlue1 Long Time Rider Name: Blue Location: Charlotte, NC Join Date: Sep 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Kawasaki Ninja 250R Posts: A lot.	If all other battery troubleshooting checks out. You may want to start by replacing the tach. Some have been known to have issues, so have some IC ignitors (CDI). http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showp...3&postcount=21

December 21st, 2013, 08:49 PM	#6
Brian ninjette.org sage Name: Brian Location: Boston MA Join Date: Nov 2013 Motorcycle(s): 08 250R Posts: 639	I might be wrong but was your bike at proper operating temperature before you took the measurements?