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Old April 1st, 2019, 08:17 AM   #1
Jduncan_13
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06 ninja 250: FUEL PROBLEM- starts with starting fluid then dies

Hello everyone,

I apologize in advance for being a complete rookie when it comes to forums as I have never actually joined one until today. I’ve read just about every fuel related forum on here and put in several hours of research

I bought a pretty beat looking 2006 ninja 250 for my friend up in Delaware a week ago and to my understanding it has a fuel related issue. When I bought the bike the guy told me that the diaphragm and floats were the issue. It would start with starting fluid, rev pretty high for about 3 seconds or so, then shut off, choke or not. So I tested it and well... that’s exactly what it did.

Took the carb off the bike which was a pain, but I got it out. Disassembled it, it looked a little dirty, almost like rust was in the float bowl, or something orange colored and chalky, but very little amounts of it were actually in there as the previous owner claimed to have cleaned it out before. every jet and hole was sprayed with carb cleaner and blasted with compressed air, and had it looking pretty clean. I did notice the one float sat just a little bit higher than the other, so I just kind of eye balled it the best I could and adjusted the one so it was the same height. I plan on taking it apart and putting a rebuild kit in there and adjusting everything properly this week, so I figured it the one float was just a little off it should at least putter or do something right? I also adjusted both pilot screws (I think they’re called) to 2 and a half turns from closed as one forum said to do. They were drilled out by a different owner so I’m assuming it’s been apart before.

Fuel did go out of the line that connects to the carb body via 90° Bend black plastic piece, but I did not yet check to see if it was getting into the carb, that will be done tonight.

Anyways, put everything back on and same thing, only would start with starting fluid then rev and die.

Not out of ideas quite yet, but looking to get an input from any other members with fuel related issues like this? Things to check, adjust etc. also if anyone can link me to a good rebuild kit for this bike I’d really appreciate it.

Thanks and have a great day!
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Old April 1st, 2019, 09:36 AM   #2
CaliGrrl
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My husband's bike had a problem like that, wouldn't stay running. We replaced the fuel line and ran it so it didn't kink, and got the carbs cleaned by a guy who actually knew what he was doing (as opposed to the shop guy who clearly didn't) and it ran again. You might look at the fuel line, fuel filter, and petcock.
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Old April 1st, 2019, 10:14 AM   #3
Jduncan_13
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Fuel lines are alright, they’re not cracked or anything, Petcock isn’t leaking or anything, turns fine through on off and reserve,and gas is getting through the line to where it would hook up to the carb, it flows pretty well through the line when I hit the starter button. Unless if the gas is bad I’m thinking it’s either a vacuum problem or just another problem with the carb. Any other ideas anyone?
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Old April 1st, 2019, 03:18 PM   #4
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Yeah, could be a vacuum problem. Check your hoses.
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Old April 1st, 2019, 05:30 PM   #5
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fresh fuel is mandatory

how long has it been sitting dormant?
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Old April 1st, 2019, 09:37 PM   #6
Jduncan_13
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Feeling a little dumb right now, drained the fuel to find that the answer to my problems was in the gas tank! The fuel was so old and dirty it almost resembled apple cider and smelled not even remotely like gasoline. How I missed that part I don’t know, I guess I overlooked one of the most simple things. but looks like I’ll be taking the carbs back off for another bath.
Next question: Any ideas on how to remove heavy rust from the tank?

2E3BF209-CA21-4CF9-B9AD-F523DD4B7204.jpg
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Old April 1st, 2019, 09:58 PM   #7
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Depends upon how thick the rust is...

Minor rust patches with mostly clean metal can be removed with phosphoric acid (Naval Jelly). Can be found at Home Depot as concrete-cleaner/rust remover. This is only acid with preferential attack on rust while leaving good metal alone. Follow instructions on bottle. It leaves a mildly protective phosphate coating. Coat with POR-15 sealant.

Thicker rust must be physically scrubbed off. Many people dump handfuls of nuts & bolts, chains, etc. into tank and spin on tumbler for several hours. Then do chemical process above to finish job.

There's also electrolysis method for really bad rust. I haven't had rust bad enough that neded that method. Although in my more ignorant younger years, I've cut out bottom of tank to wire-wheel & sand off all rust. Then brazed bottom back on.
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Old April 1st, 2019, 11:00 PM   #8
SecN8ure
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jduncan_13 View Post
Feeling a little dumb right now, drained the fuel to find that the answer to my problems was in the gas tank! The fuel was so old and dirty it almost resembled apple cider and smelled not even remotely like gasoline. How I missed that part I don’t know, I guess I overlooked one of the most simple things. but looks like I’ll be taking the carbs back off for another bath.
Next question: Any ideas on how to remove heavy rust from the tank?

Attachment 45742

I watched this video a few times and coated my fuel tank with Caswell epoxy gas tank sealer. I'm happy with the result.

https://youtu.be/iZtb0HkshJE
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Old April 2nd, 2019, 03:38 AM   #9
Jduncan_13
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Awesome! I’ll definitely be trying those methods, I really appreciate everyone for helping me out here, you guys probably saved me about 400$ From taking it to the local shop to get repaired. I’ll keep everyone updated with the results after I clean out the rusty tank and slap a rebuild kit in the carb, weird thing I noticed was that there was no inline fuel filter in the line going from the petcock to the carb at all. I’ll definitely be installing one just to be safe.

Thanks everyone and stay tuned!
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Old April 2nd, 2019, 09:46 PM   #10
Jduncan_13
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it runs! Not well, but it runs! Thank you everyone who added their input on this thread, you guys are awesome. The petcock filter that goes into the tank was disgustingly clogged and there was no inline filter. And with the amount of rust in that tank it’s a no brained it wouldn’t start.

Driving it around it seems alright, but it did pop when I let off the throttle after bringing it up to about 8k I think? (Wasn’t looking at the tach but the needle was at about 11 o’clock lol. That and when I pull in the throttle the rpms would start to creep up and up to about 4 or 5 thousand tons and stay until I turned the idle speed screw (black plastic knob on left side of bike) back down, and every other time I pulled the clutch in and came to a stop it would do the same thing. Almost thinking it might be a vacuum leak. Any thoughts on that? Haven’t adjusted the carb from the 2 1/2 turn position Or anything yet. Plan on it tomorrow afternoon. I was so excited to ride I just hopped on and went.
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Old April 3rd, 2019, 05:51 AM   #11
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re: popping, debris has invaded the decel circuit, rendering the valve inop.

re: hanging, same debris has invaded carb circuits

I'm sure you know by now you need to clean, review the entire fuel paths.

AFA tank cleaning, coating...POR15 makes a 3 step kit (includes cleaner, metal prep and coating). Dunno if you've ever done tank cleaning, coating...its a messy job. Also takes approx 4 days for the coating to fully cure. POR does work well, worth the effort, IMHO.

I've never used Caswell, compare, may be less labor intensive and quicker?

There's other brands out there, too. Do your research.
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