How do I break it in?

[waynemc]

2016 ninja 300. 0 miles. I've read about breaking it in and there's so many different ways people say to do it.

What's a sure way to break it in to where I have a stable but strong engine?

also what maintenance should I be expected to do? Like as in an oil change 600 miles in

[csmith12]

Break in threads are as fun as oil and tire threads.

My is KISS.

Vary the rpms but stay away from red line the first couple of hundred miles and change the oil at 300 and 600. After that just ride normally.

Gratz on your new bike!

[RacinNinja]

Ride it like you normally would. I'm pushing 30K on my FZ6 I broke in like this with no issues. Just no long same RPM rides like the freeway. I've broken in everything I own just driving it normally. Don't flog it but I don't subscribe to the X RPM for XX miles, then XX RPM for XX miles mentality.

[Alex]

Ugh. I really need to get the wiki back up; I really liked the section we had on Break-in. (along with the links to all of the break-in threads). But basically - don't worry about it. Don't run the engine hard until it is up to temp (by riding it gently/normally, not letting it sit and idle), vary the revs a bit if you do find yourself cruising at a constant speed for an extended period, and you'll be fine.

[JohnnyBravo]

Congrats!!! Is it greeeeeen? It's been said... Nothing special just change the oil a bit more regularly at first

[adouglas]

Here's what I did for my brand-new GSX-R750. been great... got about 10k on the clock now. This gives you a specific procedure and the reasoning behind it.

What made me a believer was what came out of the engine after the initial short run.

Scroll down... it's on the bottom part of the page.

http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/NewBike.html

[waynemc]

Originally Posted by adouglas

Here's what I did for my brand-new GSX-R750. been great... got about 10k on the clock now. This gives you a specific procedure and the reasoning behind it.

What made me a believer was what came out of the engine after the initial short run.

Scroll down... it's on the bottom part of the page.

http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/NewBike.html

How do I "engine brake" on a bike?

[SLOWn60]

Originally Posted by Alex

Ugh. I really need to get the wiki back up

Bumped to the top!

[adouglas]

Originally Posted by waynemc

How do I "engine brake" on a bike?

Accelerate. Then roll off and allow the engine to slow the bike.

[VaFish]

Run it like you stole it.

[waynemc]

Originally Posted by VaFish

Run it like you stole it.

So... if I understand this correctly.

I want to warm the bike up, but not really by idling it... but driving it nicely until it's fully warmed up. Then I want to drive the back, varying the rpms from 1000 to a little under redline? While engine braking casually? To engine brake I slowly let off the throttle? or do I let go completely at once? Downshift once I stop?

Also, I read to turn the bike off every now and then for about 5 minutes to let the heat do its thing.

[nickjpass]

I low side it into a ditch

(just kidding, ride it like you're normally going to ride it - wait for it to get up to temp).

[JohnnyBravo]

Originally Posted by nickjpass

I low side it into a ditch

(just kidding, ride it like you're normally going to ride it - wait for it to get up to temp).

Couldn't help it... You've come along way man

[VaFish]

Originally Posted by waynemc

So... if I understand this correctly.

I want to warm the bike up, but not really by idling it... but driving it nicely until it's fully warmed up. Then I want to drive the back, varying the rpms from 1000 to a little under redline? While engine braking casually? To engine brake I slowly let off the throttle? or do I let go completely at once? Downshift once I stop?

Also, I read to turn the bike off every now and then for about 5 minutes to let the heat do its thing.

Well it's a new bike, with a warranty, what does the owners manual say about break in?

If this is the current version of the 300 Manual https://docs.google.com/file/d/0BwmY...t?pref=2&pli=1 It says on page 69 to keep it under 4000 RPM for the first 500 miles and under 6000 RPM for 500-1000 miles. Good luck with that.

Me I ride it like normal and change the oil Some place between 500 and 1000 miles.

Quite a few years ago one of the motorcycle magazines did a test, they took 2 identical brand new sport bikes, one they followed the manufactures break in schedule, the other they just took off and rode hard. The 2nd bike they put on the dyno when it was brand new and again after a couple thousand miles. It was making more HP on the 2nd test. The first bike they could not run on the dyno brand new because that would have taken the RPM's above the recommended limit. But after the gentle break in period they ran it on the dyno. The 2nd bike that was run hard was making more HP.

Does that prove anything?

No, only that in those two bikes one made a couple more horsepower than the other. There was no long term test to see which bike lasted longer.

[3ØØ]

good question. i will be getting my bike back from the dealer with a rebuilt engine, and i need to research. i only know what i know for cars:

on a new/rebuilt engine, i do 3 oil and filter changes on the 1st day.
a) use lucas non-detergent SAE30 oil on initial startup. let idle and bring up to operating temps. drain oil/remove filter.
b) install new filter, install lucas again, and drive for 20mins or so while getting on/off the engine. drain oil/remove filter again.
c) install new filter and Amsoil break-in oil. Use this for 500 miles, drain oil/remove filter.
d) install another filter and oil of my choice(rotella t6)

This is what i found on bikes http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

[adouglas]

Originally Posted by waynemc

So... if I understand this correctly.

I want to warm the bike up, but not really by idling it... but driving it nicely until it's fully warmed up. Then I want to drive the back, varying the rpms from 1000 to a little under redline? While engine braking casually? To engine brake I slowly let off the throttle? or do I let go completely at once? Downshift once I stop?

Also, I read to turn the bike off every now and then for about 5 minutes to let the heat do its thing.

Pretty much. The procedure is very explicit. What's not clear about it?

When I did it, I just wrote down what needed to be done, went to pick up the bike and followed the instructions on my way home.

[3ØØ]

who, or where does it say to bring the bike up to operating temp by riding, and not by idle? most internal damage occurs at startup amd warmup.

[InvisiBill]

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Do_I_re...k-in_period%3F too.

Note that the CalSci, Motoman, and Duke methods all suggest getting it up to temp, then riding at a range of RPMs with engine loading and engine braking. While they may not be identical, they're all pretty similar.

On the other hand, Kawasaki has been putting that same break-in sticker on every bike for decades, regardless of the engine details. If you're into conspiracy theories, remember that they stand to make more money if your engine fails sooner (as long as it's not so soon that you feel ripped off).

[3ØØ]

Originally Posted by InvisiBill

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Do_I_re...k-in_period%3F too.

Note that the CalSci, Motoman, and Duke methods all suggest getting it up to temp, then riding at a range of RPMs with engine loading and engine braking. While they may not be identical, they're all pretty similar.

On the other hand, Kawasaki has been putting that same break-in sticker on every bike for decades, regardless of the engine details. If you're into conspiracy theories, remember that they stand to make more money if your engine fails sooner (as long as it's not so soon that you feel ripped off).

so as i figured, ignore Kawasaki instructions
do these bikes come with non-detergent oil from the factory?

im into conspiracy theories. i bought a new audi one time. full warranty until 50,000miles with suggested timing belt changes at 70,000 miles. guess what? my timing belt snapped at 54,000 miles and trashed all my valves, just in time as my warranty expired.

why is my username in your sig

[Motofool]

Originally Posted by waynemc

2016 ninja 300. 0 miles. I've read about breaking it in and there's so many different ways people say to do it.

What's a sure way to break it in to where I have a stable but strong engine?

also what maintenance should I be expected to do? Like as in an oil change 600 miles in

Congratulations on a good decision, Wayne !!!

Please, see these:
http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/New_Rid...ht_a_Ninja_250

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Do_I_re...k-in_period%3F

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Riding_Techniques

Originally Posted by waynemc

.........varying the rpms from 1000 to a little under redline? .....

Don't force the rpm's above 9,000.
There is no need for that at this point, neither for your engine nor for your skill level.

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/E-Z_shifting_for_beginners

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/I_want_...es_can_I_do%3F

https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=147774

https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=114372

https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=97999

https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=217355

https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=80343

Please, be careful, be aware, be ready to perform the proper evasive maneuver

[jkv45]

Originally Posted by waynemc

So... if I understand this correctly.

I want to warm the bike up, but not really by idling it... but driving it nicely until it's fully warmed up.

Then I want to drive the back, varying the rpms from 1000 to a little under redline? While engine braking casually? To engine brake I slowly let off the throttle? or do I let go completely at once? Downshift once I stop?

Also, I read to turn the bike off every now and then for about 5 minutes to let the heat do its thing.

Yes - start it up, let it idle while you get your gear on, then ride. I always keep the engine under 1/2 of redline until it's warm - maybe a bit less on a new engine.

No - don't spin up near redline at this point. You want LOAD on the engine, not REVS. Keep the revs near Kawasaki's recommended range. To get load, you want to shift early and open the throttle more than normal - pulling hard but not revving much past the recommendation. When cruising in top gear, open the throttle a lot and pull hard, but watch your speed and RPMs.

Heat cycling the engine (warming/cooling) is not a bad idea. Ride for 30 minutes, come back and let it cool for an hour, and ride again.

Some basic rider training will answer some of the operating questions in a way that will make sense.

[3ØØ]

Originally Posted by jkv45

Heat cycling the engine (warming/cooling) is not a bad idea. Ride for 30 minutes, come back and let it cool for an hour, and ride again.

got any snake oil i can use during these cool down periods

[jkv45]

Originally Posted by 3ØØ

got any snake oil i can use during these cool down periods

You don't know what "heat cycling" is?

I might have some to sell you...

[csmith12]

Originally Posted by 3ØØ

why is my username in your sig

It's a conspiracy theory....

[3ØØ]

Originally Posted by jkv45

You don't know what "heat cycling" is?

Originally Posted by csmith12

It's a conspiracy theory....

^this

[allanoue]

Ride it like you would like. Just don't be bouncing off the rev limiter until after your first oil change.

[fishdip]

The same way you brake your wife in.

[JohnnyBravo]

If it has valid plates drop it off at my place for a day

[APEmike]

I did the hard break in method. Changed oil at 250, 800 and 1500. Constantly changing RPMs kept the cylinder pressures up, and let the engine slow the bike down as much as possible. Made 35.6whp at 5k miles, 13k now and runs very strong, very slight oil use which, I am told is fairly normal for an engine that cruises at 9.5-10k rpm on the highways for hours on end (California, where speed 'limits' are more... guidelines...)

[juan1]

I didn't get to brake in my ninja but my ducati 1198 I rode it on the street for 60 miles then proceded to beat the tar out of it on the track the bike runs great 0 oil consumption still runs great till today

[michvin]

Just follow the instructions for oil change intervals and don't redline it for first couple of hundred miles. You won't notice any influence of proper break in procedure during your ownership of the bike anyway.

[JohnnyBravo]

Damn the torpedos

[Fluidlogic]

I had the same concern, so I brought my questions to my favorite tech (Southern California area - Rider's Revelation. If you're within 90 miles of Costa Mesa, go see Jimmy Summers. He's a ****ing amazing tech, and one of the straightest shooters ever.)

Basically, for the first 600 miles give her ample time to warm up and don't push her to redline. That's about it.

The big thing to keep in mind is that the bikes are shipped to the dealerships in pieces, and the 'ships give the assembly task to mooks, not skilled techs. Jimmy has seen some SERIOUS omissions and ****ups in assembly. Fortunately, the only problem with my bike was that the throttle and clutch play was set by someone who has probably watched movies of people riding a motorcycle, but most likely has never actually tried it himself.

And yeah, the Wiki would have saved me a lot of headache.